Proper Clutch Use

[suppresst]

New to motorcycles and trail riding. Concerned to use clutch properly.

1. When does releasing clutch become riding a clutch. How much is too much time to fully engage clutch (measured in time or feet or both)?
   
2. Does it damage a clutch to keep lever depressed (clutch disengaged) while sitting at idle for a minute or two?
   
3. Have trouble finding neutral when standing at idle (one click up from first). Am I just too inexperienced, or is there a problem with bike? Tips for finding neutral for beginners?
   

[WillGentry]

I would love to hear the answers to all of these questions!

[tye1138]

1. When does releasing clutch become riding a clutch. How much is too much time to fully engage clutch (measured in time or feet or both)?
   
2. Does it damage a clutch to keep lever depressed (clutch disengaged) while sitting at idle for a minute or two?
   
3. Have trouble finding neutral when standing at idle (one click up from first). Am I just too inexperienced, or is there a problem with bike? Tips for finding neutral for beginners?
   

1. You can slip the clutch as much as you want really. Because dirt bike clutches are bathed in oil, they tend not to overheat very easily. "Riding" a clutch is when the mechanical components are being worn but the clutch is not being disengaged. It forces the actuating lever, pushrod and pressure plate bearing to be engaged slightly, yet the clutch is not being disengaged. This is common with car drivers, but I've never heard of it being used in reference to motorcycle riding because bike clutches are generally much stiffer to operate because your hand doesn't have the same mechanical leverage as your foot. So its rare that you'll pull on the clutch lever just enough to cause that to happen.
   
2. Nope, because the clutch is bathed in oil, that oil keeps the plates from generating a lot of friction and wearing out quickly when the clutch is depressed in neutral.
   
3. With the clutch fully disengaged, (lever all the way in to the bar) rock the bike back and forward slightly when you want to find neutral. The pressure plates on dirt bikes don't usually disengage all the way for many reasons, one of which could be cable slack in the clutch cable, another could simply be the design prohibits complete disengagement because if the pressure plate was to completely disengage, that extra lever travel would take up the lever travel that the rider needs to accurately slip the clutch for starts and for generating drive out of a corner. So they make the clutch disengage just enough so you can change gears whilst standing still, but you might notice even when the clutch is fully disengaged (lever to the bar) the bike still feels like its engaged. You can see this in action by putting your bike on a center stand, starting it up, putting it in gear and then pulling the clutch in, the result of which is the rear wheel still spinning as if it was engaged.
   

All of your questions are answered by reading the MSF (motorcycle safety foundation) documentation for beginner riders. I started riding on street bikes, so I was taught these things in the MSF class, which is something you might wanna take!

Hope that helps!

Edited March 19, 2012 by tye1138

[kawazuki250]

if you can't find neutral with your foot, use your hand. You'll eventually get the feel for it, but use your hand if you really can't find it with your boots on and . Also find if it's easier to go into first and do a half click up into neutral or if your bike likes being in second gear and shifted a half click down into neutral.

[Gary Semics]

New to motorcycles and trail riding. Concerned to use clutch properly.

1. When does releasing clutch become riding a clutch. How much is too much time to fully engage clutch (measured in time or feet or both)?
   
2. Does it damage a clutch to keep lever depressed (clutch disengaged) while sitting at idle for a minute or two?
   
3. Have trouble finding neutral when standing at idle (one click up from first). Am I just too inexperienced, or is there a problem with bike? Tips for finding neutral for beginners?
   

Q #1. From a dead stop it takes about 1.5 seconds.

Q #2. Not good to do more than 10 seconds or so.

Q # 3. Make sure your clutch is disengaged all the way. If it's dragging a little it will be much harder to find neutral.

Clutch adjustment is very important. For all the details look into my Motocross Clutch, Throttle and Shifting Techniques DVD. Free DVD previews and order online at; http://wp.gsmxs.com/dvd-3-clutch-throttle-clutch-control/

[captainhog]

When is Gary going to put volume 3, disc # 6 (jumping technique) on his download site? I have purchased all of them that are available this way, its easier since my laptop dvd player went out a while back. Hopefully it will be soon!

[jekyll991]

Another thing about finding neutral is sometimes it may be easier to start in second and gently tap it down. Sometimes works for me if I'm having trouble but my bike normally doesn't.

[SOAB_465]

If your clutch is dragging, it's easier to shift to neutral as you are coming to a stop, while the bike is still moving.

If you're not hard on the throttle, you'll probably never wear out your clutch slipping it to get going or sitting with it pulled in. Usually the people burning up clutches are really pushing or sitting on the starting line with the bike revved to the moon and the clutch in.

[suppresst]

Thanks for all the feedback. I'm going to sift through it all and find out what works for me out on the trails.

[Thumper35]

I used to set my clutch so I could use it with 2 fingers and the rest of my hand wrapped around the grip. I always had trouble finding neutral and starting because when i pulled the clutch in it was what i thought disengaged when the level rested against the fingers that were still wrapped around the grip. I used to kick and click until i was enraged. A factory pro rider pointed out to me that when you run er hard the clutch heats up and changes. He said he would adjust his mid lap during a race. Point is, when i took my hand off the grip and pulled the clutch in all the way my bike would start on a kick and i could find neutral with ease after struggling with it slightly engaged. This was on a Honda 250 R FYI.

[YamahaRider485]

On my 06 for question number 3 its hard to find neutral when just sitting there, i can give it a tiny tiny tiny bit of gas on and the shifter goes into neutral so easy. almost always quicker then rocking the bike a little. both are good ways whichever works easiest.

[kx910]

New to motorcycles and trail riding. Concerned to use clutch properly.

1. Have trouble finding neutral when standing at idle (one click up from first). Am I just too inexperienced, or is there a problem with bike? Tips for finding neutral for beginners?
   

Ok, I was having trouble before with finding neutral, and here might be some things to help you:

1. You might be pulling up too lightly when your trying to shift to neutral. I used to try to pull up as lightly as possible, but the sudden click into neutral usually resulted in my foot flying upwards and shifting me into 2nd. Think of it as someone being behind a door, and your leaning against it. when that person let's go, your going to fly forward, just like with your foot. You need to just push forward, not lean against it and constantly add more force.

You want to pull up in one light (not too light), quick motion. Kinda like shifting into 2nd, but with a SLIGHTLY less powerful pull up.

2. The 2nd thing that helped me is this, whenever your trying to check if your in gear or in neutral, SLOWLY let the clutch out a little bit. If you feel the bike creeping forward, then your in gear. If it moves forward, then just pull the clutch back in and try to find neutral agin. If you can let the clutch out without the bike creeping forward, your in neutral.

Doing this is WAAY faster and easier than constantly rocking the bike back and forth (as Tye explained). You only need to rock the bike if the bike is turned off.

Edited April 17, 2012 by kx910

[Gary Semics]

New to motorcycles and trail riding. Concerned to use clutch properly.

1. When does releasing clutch become riding a clutch. How much is too much time to fully engage clutch (measured in time or feet or both)?
   
2. Does it damage a clutch to keep lever depressed (clutch disengaged) while sitting at idle for a minute or two?
   
3. Have trouble finding neutral when standing at idle (one click up from first). Am I just too inexperienced, or is there a problem with bike? Tips for finding neutral for beginners?
   

1. 4 seconds or more is too much time.

2. I wouldn't do it for longer than 20 seconds.

3. Your clutch might be dragging. Make sure it's adjusted right and pulled in all the way.

Regarding using the clutch when shifting it's better to nip the clutch when upshifting because there is a lot of pressure on the tranny at that time. This will allow you to be more consistence in getting it all the way into the next gear, you will miss fewer shifts and you're tranny's life will be extended. This way if you're really looking to get all the power and speed out of the bike you can keep the throttle wide open and shift, known as "Power Shifting".

It's not necessary to nip the clutch when downshifting because there's not much pressure in the tranny at this time. But it is better if you can give that clutch a little quick nip at the precise instinct of your downshifts as well.

Remember to keep one or two (one is better) fingers on that low end lever whenever you may even remotely need that clutch. On the start use two or three fingers but on the track for all those quick nips you'll be doing one finger is the way to go.

For all the Clutch, Throttle and Shifting techniques watch the free preview of my Volume 3 DVD #3 (Motocross Clutch, Throttle and Shifting Techniques DVD) at; http://wp.gsmxs.com/dvd-3-clutch-throttle-clutch-control/

[suppresst]

You guys have been a lot of help. I'm doing better now, but still have trouble about 2 out of 5 times. I think I've eliminated improper adjustment as a source of problem. Perhaps now it's more an issue of practice makes perfect.