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Gary Semics

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Gary Semics last won the day on April 21 2009

Gary Semics had the most liked content!

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About Gary Semics

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    TT MX Technique Expert

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    Male
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    Ohio
  • Interests
    Working on my motocross track in Lisbon OH. Riding motos is still my favorite thing to do. I like training on my bicycle, running, lifting weights too. Like working on the computer, especially editing video. Love having leisure time with my family. It's all good. Life is good living the dream on the back 40.
  1. There's a lot more that goes into being fast on a dirt bike then twisting the throttle and trying you're hardest. https://youtu.be/IbKdttErdOo
  2. Below is an article I wrote a while ago. It will answer your question and more. I would say the pros are in 2nd gear through a 180 corner. Hope this helps. Understanding the secrets below will enable you to have a lot more speed and control into and through the corners. Most times what you think you know isn't enough. Many times the rest of what you need to know has been right there the entire time...you just didn't recognize it. The most critical part of the corner is at the transition. What is the transition? It's where you go from controlling the bike with the brakes to controlling it with the clutch and throttle, there can't be any coasting between. You go from braking to accelerating. How simple is that? Now that you know it you will need to consistently be doing it correctly at a slow pace, then you can start adding speed to it. Once you have it down you will be amazed how much faster your corners will be. Here's an example to help you understand just how easy this secret is applied. When entering a corner if you coast between braking and accelerating you give up a lot of your control because the brakes give you over 50% of your control. The way you must compensate for this, lose of control, is to slow down. But at the same time if you don't enter the corner fast enough you don't need to ride the brakes longer and harder. In another example lets say you enter the corner faster but then brake too hard. If you hit the front brake too hard you may knife the front wheel and/or slide it out. If you rear brake to hard...kill the engine...slide out and so on. Not braking hard enough isn't going to work either as you will over shoot the corner. This is why it's vital to get very skilled at controlling the brakes while you are feeling what's needed. Riding with more control is way more fun. As you're within several feet of the transition this braking control could be maintaining a light touch of both the front and rear brakes as you begin to transfer to the clutch and throttle. In other conditions it maybe a lot more aggressive braking before more aggressive clutch and throttle control is applied. Then there is the entire range between feathering the brakes and locking them up. Again, you have to control the brakes as you are feeling what is needed not only to slow down but to control the bike...making it do exactly what you want it to do...hold the same angle, cut shorter, go wider, steer with the rear wheel, with the front wheel. It's all done with the brakes and your body movements. Improving as you're practicing is an awesome feeling. Just knowing and understanding this is good but it's only the first step. You have to know how to practice it in order to eventually do it automatically at full speed. It has to be programmed into your subconscious mind...into your automatic reflex reactions. The only way for this to happen is to repeat the process correctly through repetition and to repeat it frequently. Every time you ride be mindful of it and feel the improvements. If you want to feel massive improvements riding your dirt bike purchasing my "Motocross Braking Techniques DVD or Stream" is a very small investment that will bring priceless results: Gary; thanks for your personal help throughout my career. Your methods and strategies made my practice and training time much more effective. (Jeremy McGrath) "Motocross Corner Speed - Beyond the Basics" Ride Hard, Ride Smart, Gary Semics
  3. Seat bouncing is a good technique to use when you’re approach into a jump is short and you need more height and/or distance and/or don’t have enough time to stand up for the jump. Since you’re sitting on the seat your body weight is going to go straight into the bike and therefore compress the rear suspension more, causing it to rebound harder and give you more lift (airtime) out of the jump. If you were standing your legs could absorb some of the compression and rebound, keeping you lower. When seat bouncing clutch and throttle control are very important and usually pulling back on the bars at the right time is also important for these two things are what control whether your front end is high or low. You see, you have to deliver the power to the rear wheel just right with the clutch and throttle as that rear wheel compresses into the jump and rebounds out of the jump. This is an advanced technique and even then can only be used on short approaches where you’re accelerating all the way through the compression part of the jump. The jump face also has to be smooth with no kickers in it. Check out my All About Jumps and Whoops DVD for all the details. Now 50% off. http://www.gsmxs.com/dvds/volume-2/dvd-3-all-about-jumps-whoops or better yet my newer DVD Volume 3 DVD # 7 Seat Bouncing and Launching Techniques; http://www.gsmxs.com/dvds/volume-3/vo3-dvd-7-motocross-absorb-scrub-whip-jumping-techniques See a free preview and order or Stream online.
  4. Slothy, thanks for putting my YT vid on! TT must have changed something as I used to be able to do it. How did you do that?
  5. Basic Jumping tips. The most important part of the jump is where the bike actually leaves the ground, where you have the compression and rebound part of the jump. What gives you control at this critical part of the jump is your body movements and throttle control. Along with this body movement and throttle control is timing. This timing is very important so the body movement and throttle control has to happen at the right time. Key into the compression and rebound parts of the jump, move your body back a little as the rear wheel rebounds off the jump and blip the throttle a little at the same time. This should cause the front end to stay level or come up a little. If the front end comes up too high don't move back or blip the throttle as much. If you want the front end lower, to begin with, it's more of the same, again, don't move back or blip the throttle as much. When you want to accelerate after landing make sure you have the throttle on just before you land. See free MX Technique DVD previews and order the DVDs or Streams online. Purchase my best selling jumping DVD/Stream and learn how to be comfortable in the air! TT members receive a 10% discount with code; TTGSMXS58
  6. It's no mystery that you have to be in great shape to moto. Let's face it, training off the bike is the hardest thing to do because it's just plain old hard work. It takes a lot of discipline to keep doing the workouts week after week. So it only makes sense that you would want all the hard work to pay off. In this case make you a better rider. Not just a little better but a lot better. I've spent over 30 years with this goal in mind. Not only on myself but for many other pro riders, such as: McGrath, Windham, Lusk, Dowd, Fonseca, Roncada, Jesseman and Villopoto. All these riders combined have won 27 AMA Pro Championships. I'm still doing that, now training 28 riders at The Club MX Training Facility in SC, including Geico Honda rider Zach Osborn. I have learned how to put the workouts together into circuits that use aerobic and anaerobic exercises. You have to know what's enough without being too much, how to balance your hard and easy days and so much more. I've been addicted to this type of training since I was 18 and still am today at 62. Ask anyone who knows me, I'm still training 6 days a week. Why, because I just don't feel right if I don't. That's the only reason that makes any sense to me. But I do know when I ride the bike I don't get tired and can still go fast for my age. I wanted to challenge myself in 2012 so I raced the Loretta Lynn's Amateur National Finals and won all 3 motos of the 50 Masters Class. I've carefully put all this training for motos info together in an easy to follow 90 minute format DVD or Stream called The MX Conditioning 2 DVD which comes with a PDF Training and Nutrition Manual. Don't waste your time and energy doing all that hard training that's not going to be 100% efficient at making you a better rider. Learn from my experience, experience that's long (over 30 years) and is proven with National Championships. See a free preview and order the DVD or Stream. Enter this code and 20% off; FB20OFF
  7. Basic Jumping tips. The most important part of the jump is where the bike actually leaves the ground, where you have the compression and rebound part of the jump. What gives you control at this critical part of the jump is your body movements and throttle control. Along with this body movement and throttle control is timing. This timing is very important so the body movement and throttle control has to happen at the right time. Key into the compression and rebound parts of the jump, move your body back a little as the rear wheel rebounds off the jump and blip the throttle a little at the same time. This should cause the front end to stay level or come up a little. If the front end comes up too high don't move back or blip the throttle as much. If you want the front end lower, to begin with, it's more of the same, again, don't move back or blip the throttle as much. When you want to accelerate after landing make sure you have the throttle on just before you land. See free MX Technique DVD previews and order the DVDs or Streams online. I have 3 Technique DVDs that cover Jumping and Whoops. The best one for beginners is: http://www.gsmxs.com/dvds/volume-3/dvd-6-motocross-basic-jumping-techniques
  8. Figure 8 drills are an excellent way to practice corners. Here are some tips for improving your corner speed and control! <iframe width="854" height="480" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/a2mBif0d8BM"frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe> https://youtu.be/a2mBif0d8BM Don't know why the video play screen it's showing up???
  9. Sure, it's fun to put some laps in on a motocross track. But, you'll fall short of your potential if you're not using this key practice law of practicing important techniques separately. This is true for motocross cornering skills as well as motocross jumping skills. Did you know that riding really well requires mastering as many as 55 separate techniques, all laced seamlessly together? If you'd like more of my riding tips, browse my blog here on ThumperTalk or my website. If you'd like to be notified when I post new riding tips, subscribe by clicking the "follow" button (upper right).
  10. The rule of the track here is to leave the clutch out while braking so the engine helps slow you down and helps control the braking process. It’s kind of like anti lock brakes. The best stopping power is just before the rear wheel locks up and that’s just what leaving the clutch out will help you with. We’ll get to the front brake later. This is done when you’re still carrying some speed into the corner. If it’s a tight corner where you’re going to be slowing down to a slow speed in the middle of the corner and/or if you’re going to do a brake slide, then you have to pull the clutch in so you don’t kill the engine, but before that leave the clutch out! I’ve seen this technique of leaving the clutch out while braking misused and abused by a lot of beginner riders. Every time they apply the back brake they put the clutch in. They do this because they don’t have good braking control and by stabbing the rear brake on they would stall the engine. Sometimes making it stall even easier by being in too high of a gear. It’s really the same technique for 2 strokes and 4 strokes. There is a similar technique regarding the clutch when exiting a corner with 2 or 4 strokes. The 2 stroke does depend on the clutch more than the 4 stroke but if you’re pulling a high gear out of the corner even the torquey 4 strokes can use a little help from the clutch. A good rider can make his bike drift slide into a corner, real pretty like, lol, by leaving that low end lever out (the clutch). When a rider pulls the clutch in while braking at speed he’s taking a chance of sliding out too much, then his automatic reaction is to let up on the rear brake too much. This causes the bike to straiten up and then he hits the rear brake again and so on. This is especially the case on a high speed slippery approach to a corner. Learn to feather those controls or lock them up and every thing between. It takes a fine feel to go fast. Of course the front brake has the most stopping power but in most cases you can’t use the front brake effectively unless you’re using the rear brake properly. Get all the details from my “Motocross Braking Techniques DVD/Stream”. See a free preview and order online. TT members get an additional 10% off with the following code before checkout; TTGSMXS58
  11. I'm surprised you have more trouble ungripping the regrip than actually regripping. As you practice more you will develop the skill to re-position your grip as needed. It's a matter of loosening your grip just enough to change positions. I have listed the text on the subject to refresh your memory on the key points. Having the proper grip on the handle grips is extremely important. For a pro it’s as natural as putting his hands in the pockets of his or her well worn loose fitting pair of pants. For the untrained beginner it may be as unnatural as putting his hands into the pockets of a skin tight pair of pants. There is one basic way to hold onto the grips and there are two different positions to hold on. The one basic way is to hold the grips like you’re grabbing onto a door knob to open the door. To better understand this technique go and open a door. Notice how you use your hand, wrist and forearm to hold onto and turn the door knob. Now go sit on the M/C and grab the grips the same way; from the outside. This will automatically position the elbows to the outsides. This opens your upper body way more for better movement and leverage over the M/C. Now let’s take a look at the two different grip positions. Over grip (regrip) is for accelerating. When in the proper over grip the top of your hands are a little steeper then your wrist and forearms. Your wrist and forearms should be at about a 45 degree angle to the ground. This means that your wrists are bent a little so while your forearms are at a 45 degree angle your hands are over gripping a little more from there. This way you have the freedom to move into the forward body position whether sitting or standing for accelerating. You can also work the throttle without your arm, elbow and shoulder dropping way down. You can work overtop of the M/C; even in front of the handlebars a little if needed. Without this over grip this would be impossible. The other grip position is for braking. This is a little lower than the over grip (regrip) position. When braking your hands, wrists and forearms have to be lined up straight so you have strength to take force against the handlebars; especially over the braking bumps. If you remained in the over grip position your wrist would buckle and your body position could easily be thrown too far forward; maybe even over the handlebars; leaving your face riding on the front fender just before you go all the way over and hit the ground while knocking the wind out of yourself. Trust me; I know; I’ve done it. Since there are 2 different grip positions you have to know and practice how and when to change. It's very easy to adjust your over grip to the slightly lower braking grip position. However, changing from the braking grip position to the over grip (called the regrip) takes some time to master. The main reason it's more difficult is because you have to control the front brake at the same time. Make sure your front brake lever is adjusted a little lower than your clutch. Just before finishing your braking do the regrip. As you get on the gas let your finger slip off the front brake. Just like any of the techniques you have to understand this technique, be able to do this technique correctly and do it correctly over and over again until it becomes natural and automatic, until it becomes an automatic reflex reaction; running on auto pilot, my man, auto pilot. Repetition is the mother of skill; the more you do something the better you get at it. Just make sure you’re doing it over and over again the correct way. Developing bad habits is a waste to time and then you end up spending even more time unlearning them and changing them to the correct habits. My DVD/Stream (Body Positions and Movements) covers this and more in detail. This DVD teaches you how to practice and learn each technique. You can order it online and/or watch a free preview. Habit; The more the path is used the deeper it is etched and the deeper it is etched the more it is used.
  12. There are three different techniques for whoops. A. Jumping through the troughs of the whoops. B. Front wheel placement. C. Skimming the tops of the whoops. You all know what jumping through the troughs of the whoops are and what skimming the whoops are but what is front wheel placement? This is similar to jumping through the troughs of the whoops but instead of jumping with the front wheel low, so it lands first, it is jumping with the front end high. At the same time the rear wheel is wheel tapping, usually one whoop. This is a very useful technique when you can't quite triple the whoops, you can use the front wheel placement technique to wheel tap the second one and get over the third one. For all these techniques some key points to practice are; - Keep your weight off of the handlebars. - Clutch and throttle control along with body movements are what gives you control when jumping or doing front wheel placement. - Keep the balls of your feet on the foot-pegs. - Your handgrip should be in the accelerating position (high over grip). This is so your body movements can work through your whole range of motion over the bike. - Hold onto the bike with your knees. - Look far enough out in front of you to be ready for the four or fifth whoop, not just the next one or two. When the whoops are uneven you most likely will have to use a combination of all three techniques. Make sure you look far enough ahead so you are ready for what’s coming up. For all the info about whoops check out my Volume 2 Techniques DVD # 3 (All About Jumping and Whoops).
  13. Most riders when trying to turn the bars off a jump, even small jumps, will turn them right after the front tire leaves the jump. Automatic self reservation...ha. But if you muster up the courage to turn it before it leaves the jump, yes, it will have a big effect. This is known as scrubbing or whipping. Here's some insights about how to pull this off and not leave chilly in your shorts...lol. Scrubbing First you should learn how to "Absorb" a jump before working on "Scrubbing" a jump. In order to Absorb a jump you stand tall (just before your knees lock) on the pegs while approaching the jump,. Continue standing tall as the bike loads into the compression part of the jump. Then as the suspension begins to rebound flex in your knees and elbows which allows the bike to come up under you, hence absorb. This also happens when Scrubbing but there are 3 more things going on. Only smooth faced jumps can be scrubbed, not jumps that are soft, rutted or real tacky. This is because the front and rear tires have to slide off the jump. In order to do this you have to lean the bike over as you are going up the jump. The sooner you lean it the better but this also ups the difficulty level. Keep your body position tall, just before your knees lock, as you lean the bike going up the jump. Then at the top of the jump drop your body position in order to absorb the take off. Always drop your body to the opposite side of the way the bike is leaning. Example: if you're leaning to the right you would turn the handlebars to the right and drop your body to the left. This is a very advanced move so start off very easy. If you really want to learn how get my Volume 3 DVD #8 DVD or Stream (Absorbing, Scrubbing and Whipping Jumping Techniques). See free preview before you order: http://www.gsmxs.com...hniques-preview Whipping; Before you begin to practice doing the whip find a smooth faced jump with no ruts on the face. The whip can be performed even when there are some small ruts in the face of the jump but it is much easier to do without ruts. Make sure it’s a safe jump (like a tabletop) but has enough hang time to get it sideways and pull it back straight for the landing. Approach the jump at an angle so you can turn the bike off the jump and still hit your intended landing target. As you're coming into the jump lean your body (mostly your head) off the inside of the bike a little. This would be to the side that you are leaning. Just as the bike begins to rebound continue leaning it over and as it starts to rebound let the back end come out to the side. At the same time pull back on the outside handlebar, it doesn't take much, just a little. As it leaves the jump you can pull it over more by the handlebars and by leaning more off to the inside or you can straighten it up or let it stay the same. Right after that instant make sure you find the center of balance with your body movement. Then at the top of the arch of your air time start to reverse the movement that you executed upon takeoff. This will give you enough time to straighten it up for the landing. To get all the detailed info about jumping and whoops watch the free DVD preview of my Volume 2 DVD #3 All About Jumps and Whoops DVD. If you like you can order the disc or Stream online. http://www.gsmxs.com/dvds/volume-2/dvd-3-all-about-jumps-whoops Also before Christmas I released the final video in the Volume 3 Series DVD #8 (How to Absorb, Scrub and Whip). http://www.gsmxs.com/featured/vo3-dvd-8-motocross-jumping-absorbing-scrubbing-and-whipping-techniques-preview
  14. I've always used my index finger. I know that some pros with short fingers use the middle finger. I suggest using the finger that feels most comfortable. The more you use it the more comfortable it will become. Back in 1996 when I was helping Jon Dowd I gave him a half handlebar with a spring loaded clutch so he could practice with one finger. Within the first week he was comfortable with it on the bike.
  15. No that's not normal. Weight the outside foot peg and work from the central body position.