Gary Semics

Experts
  • Content count

    1,726
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    1

Gary Semics last won the day on April 21 2009

Gary Semics had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

384 Excellent

3 Followers

About Gary Semics

  • Rank
    TT MX Technique Expert

Contact Methods

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Ohio
  • Interests
    Working on my motocross track in Lisbon OH. Riding motos is still my favorite thing to do. I like training on my bicycle, running, lifting weights too. Like working on the computer, especially editing video. Love having leisure time with my family. It's all good. Life is good living the dream on the back 40.
  1. Roger, maybe the KTM is gearer a lot higher which would cause your stalling issue. Also the rear brake is most likely way more powerful, so it would take a lighter touch and feel.
  2. Understanding the secrets below will enable you to have a lot more speed and control into and through the corners. Most times what you think you know isn't enough. Many times the rest of what you need to know has been right there the entire time...you just didn't recognize it. The most critical part of the corner is at the transition. What is the transition? It's where you go from controlling the bike with the brakes to controlling it with the clutch and throttle, there can't be any coasting between. You go from braking to accelerating. How simple is that? Now that you know it you will need to consistently be doing it correctly at a slow pace, then you can start adding speed to it. Once you have it down you will be amazed how much faster your corners will be. Here's an example to help you understand just how easy this secret is applied. When entering a corner if you coast between braking and accelerating you give up a lot of your control because the brakes give you over 50% of your control. The way you must compensate for this, lose of control, is to slow down. But at the same time if you don't enter the corner fast enough you don't need to ride the brakes longer and harder. In another example lets say you enter the corner faster but then brake too hard. If you hit the front brake too hard you may knife the front wheel and/or slide it out. If you rear brake to hard...kill the engine...slide out and so on. Not braking hard enough isn't going to work either as you will over shoot the corner. This is why it's vital to get very skilled at controlling the brakes while you are feeling what's needed. Riding with more control is way more fun. As you're within several feet of the transition this braking control could be maintaining a light touch of both the front and rear brakes as you begin to transfer to the clutch and throttle. In other conditions it maybe a lot more aggressive braking before more aggressive clutch and throttle control is applied. Then there is the entire range between feathering the brakes and locking them up. Again, you have to control the brakes as you are feeling what is needed not only to slow down but to control the bike...making it do exactly what you want it to do...hold the same angle, cut shorter, go wider, steer with the rear wheel, with the front wheel. It's all done with the brakes and your body movements. Improving as you're practicing is an awesome feeling. Just knowing and understanding this is good but it's only the first step. You have to know how to practice it in order to eventually do it automatically at full speed. It has to be programmed into your subconscious mind...into your automatic reflex reactions. The only way for this to happen is to repeat the process correctly through repetition and to repeat it frequently. Every time you ride be mindful of it and feel the improvements. If you want to feel massive improvements riding your dirt bike purchasing my "Motocross Braking Techniques DVD or Stream" is a very small investment that will bring priceless results: Gary; thanks for your personal help throughout my career. Your methods and strategies made my practice and training time much more effective. (Jeremy McGrath) Ride Hard, Ride Smart, Gary Semics
  3. It does when the rut is deep so you can lean the bike over far enough. In these cases the front brake is more important!
  4. Motocross Rutted Corner Riding Tip, shot at Club MX. Control the brakes all the way up to the Transition. The transition is where you go from braking to accelerating. NO COASTING!
  5. Hi Gary, I have a 2013 KTM 250 SX and am having trouble keeping the front end down when blasting over whoops. Ive tried love tapping the rear brake but it keeps coming up! Help. 

    1. Gary Semics

      Gary Semics

      This is a first.  Can you make a Youtube video and send me the URL address? It sounds like you have too much of your body weight back and are pulling back on the bars too much. 

    2. KTM_rider_EK_17

      KTM_rider_EK_17

      I went out and tried leaning forward a little more (still keeping my arms relatively straight) and didn't pull up on the bars at all then the front didn't come up as much. I think I am going to go a few teeth down on the rear sprocket (then one on the front) to shave some power off the top and apply more weight to the front. Thank you so much! 

  6. Best way to take motocross big rollers. Sometimes you can jump through big rollers. But many times you can only loft your front wheel just over the top of each roller. In this case stay tall between rollers and row your body movement down and back as the front wheel lands just over the top of each one. https://youtu.be/OGxs4vCrpKM
  7. There's a lot more that goes into being fast on a dirt bike then twisting the throttle and trying you're hardest. https://youtu.be/IbKdttErdOo
  8. Below is an article I wrote a while ago. It will answer your question and more. I would say the pros are in 2nd gear through a 180 corner. Hope this helps. Understanding the secrets below will enable you to have a lot more speed and control into and through the corners. Most times what you think you know isn't enough. Many times the rest of what you need to know has been right there the entire time...you just didn't recognize it. The most critical part of the corner is at the transition. What is the transition? It's where you go from controlling the bike with the brakes to controlling it with the clutch and throttle, there can't be any coasting between. You go from braking to accelerating. How simple is that? Now that you know it you will need to consistently be doing it correctly at a slow pace, then you can start adding speed to it. Once you have it down you will be amazed how much faster your corners will be. Here's an example to help you understand just how easy this secret is applied. When entering a corner if you coast between braking and accelerating you give up a lot of your control because the brakes give you over 50% of your control. The way you must compensate for this, lose of control, is to slow down. But at the same time if you don't enter the corner fast enough you don't need to ride the brakes longer and harder. In another example lets say you enter the corner faster but then brake too hard. If you hit the front brake too hard you may knife the front wheel and/or slide it out. If you rear brake to hard...kill the engine...slide out and so on. Not braking hard enough isn't going to work either as you will over shoot the corner. This is why it's vital to get very skilled at controlling the brakes while you are feeling what's needed. Riding with more control is way more fun. As you're within several feet of the transition this braking control could be maintaining a light touch of both the front and rear brakes as you begin to transfer to the clutch and throttle. In other conditions it maybe a lot more aggressive braking before more aggressive clutch and throttle control is applied. Then there is the entire range between feathering the brakes and locking them up. Again, you have to control the brakes as you are feeling what is needed not only to slow down but to control the bike...making it do exactly what you want it to do...hold the same angle, cut shorter, go wider, steer with the rear wheel, with the front wheel. It's all done with the brakes and your body movements. Improving as you're practicing is an awesome feeling. Just knowing and understanding this is good but it's only the first step. You have to know how to practice it in order to eventually do it automatically at full speed. It has to be programmed into your subconscious mind...into your automatic reflex reactions. The only way for this to happen is to repeat the process correctly through repetition and to repeat it frequently. Every time you ride be mindful of it and feel the improvements. If you want to feel massive improvements riding your dirt bike purchasing my "Motocross Braking Techniques DVD or Stream" is a very small investment that will bring priceless results: Gary; thanks for your personal help throughout my career. Your methods and strategies made my practice and training time much more effective. (Jeremy McGrath) "Motocross Corner Speed - Beyond the Basics" Ride Hard, Ride Smart, Gary Semics
  9. Seat bouncing is a good technique to use when you’re approach into a jump is short and you need more height and/or distance and/or don’t have enough time to stand up for the jump. Since you’re sitting on the seat your body weight is going to go straight into the bike and therefore compress the rear suspension more, causing it to rebound harder and give you more lift (airtime) out of the jump. If you were standing your legs could absorb some of the compression and rebound, keeping you lower. When seat bouncing clutch and throttle control are very important and usually pulling back on the bars at the right time is also important for these two things are what control whether your front end is high or low. You see, you have to deliver the power to the rear wheel just right with the clutch and throttle as that rear wheel compresses into the jump and rebounds out of the jump. This is an advanced technique and even then can only be used on short approaches where you’re accelerating all the way through the compression part of the jump. The jump face also has to be smooth with no kickers in it. Check out my All About Jumps and Whoops DVD for all the details. Now 50% off. http://www.gsmxs.com/dvds/volume-2/dvd-3-all-about-jumps-whoops or better yet my newer DVD Volume 3 DVD # 7 Seat Bouncing and Launching Techniques; http://www.gsmxs.com/dvds/volume-3/vo3-dvd-7-motocross-absorb-scrub-whip-jumping-techniques See a free preview and order or Stream online.
  10. Slothy, thanks for putting my YT vid on! TT must have changed something as I used to be able to do it. How did you do that?
  11. Basic Jumping tips. The most important part of the jump is where the bike actually leaves the ground, where you have the compression and rebound part of the jump. What gives you control at this critical part of the jump is your body movements and throttle control. Along with this body movement and throttle control is timing. This timing is very important so the body movement and throttle control has to happen at the right time. Key into the compression and rebound parts of the jump, move your body back a little as the rear wheel rebounds off the jump and blip the throttle a little at the same time. This should cause the front end to stay level or come up a little. If the front end comes up too high don't move back or blip the throttle as much. If you want the front end lower, to begin with, it's more of the same, again, don't move back or blip the throttle as much. When you want to accelerate after landing make sure you have the throttle on just before you land. See free MX Technique DVD previews and order the DVDs or Streams online. Purchase my best selling jumping DVD/Stream and learn how to be comfortable in the air! TT members receive a 10% discount with code; TTGSMXS58
  12. It's no mystery that you have to be in great shape to moto. Let's face it, training off the bike is the hardest thing to do because it's just plain old hard work. It takes a lot of discipline to keep doing the workouts week after week. So it only makes sense that you would want all the hard work to pay off. In this case make you a better rider. Not just a little better but a lot better. I've spent over 30 years with this goal in mind. Not only on myself but for many other pro riders, such as: McGrath, Windham, Lusk, Dowd, Fonseca, Roncada, Jesseman and Villopoto. All these riders combined have won 27 AMA Pro Championships. I'm still doing that, now training 28 riders at The Club MX Training Facility in SC, including Geico Honda rider Zach Osborn. I have learned how to put the workouts together into circuits that use aerobic and anaerobic exercises. You have to know what's enough without being too much, how to balance your hard and easy days and so much more. I've been addicted to this type of training since I was 18 and still am today at 62. Ask anyone who knows me, I'm still training 6 days a week. Why, because I just don't feel right if I don't. That's the only reason that makes any sense to me. But I do know when I ride the bike I don't get tired and can still go fast for my age. I wanted to challenge myself in 2012 so I raced the Loretta Lynn's Amateur National Finals and won all 3 motos of the 50 Masters Class. I've carefully put all this training for motos info together in an easy to follow 90 minute format DVD or Stream called The MX Conditioning 2 DVD which comes with a PDF Training and Nutrition Manual. Don't waste your time and energy doing all that hard training that's not going to be 100% efficient at making you a better rider. Learn from my experience, experience that's long (over 30 years) and is proven with National Championships. See a free preview and order the DVD or Stream. Enter this code and 20% off; FB20OFF
  13. Basic Jumping tips. The most important part of the jump is where the bike actually leaves the ground, where you have the compression and rebound part of the jump. What gives you control at this critical part of the jump is your body movements and throttle control. Along with this body movement and throttle control is timing. This timing is very important so the body movement and throttle control has to happen at the right time. Key into the compression and rebound parts of the jump, move your body back a little as the rear wheel rebounds off the jump and blip the throttle a little at the same time. This should cause the front end to stay level or come up a little. If the front end comes up too high don't move back or blip the throttle as much. If you want the front end lower, to begin with, it's more of the same, again, don't move back or blip the throttle as much. When you want to accelerate after landing make sure you have the throttle on just before you land. See free MX Technique DVD previews and order the DVDs or Streams online. I have 3 Technique DVDs that cover Jumping and Whoops. The best one for beginners is: http://www.gsmxs.com/dvds/volume-3/dvd-6-motocross-basic-jumping-techniques
  14. Figure 8 drills are an excellent way to practice corners. Here are some tips for improving your corner speed and control! <iframe width="854" height="480" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/a2mBif0d8BM"frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe> https://youtu.be/a2mBif0d8BM Don't know why the video play screen it's showing up???
  15. Sure, it's fun to put some laps in on a motocross track. But, you'll fall short of your potential if you're not using this key practice law of practicing important techniques separately. This is true for motocross cornering skills as well as motocross jumping skills. Did you know that riding really well requires mastering as many as 55 separate techniques, all laced seamlessly together? If you'd like more of my riding tips, browse my blog here on ThumperTalk or my website. If you'd like to be notified when I post new riding tips, subscribe by clicking the "follow" button (upper right).