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Alpinestars Corozal Adventure Drystar Boot
The Alpinestars Corozal Adventure Drystar Boot was designed for adventure and light to moderate duty dual sport riders who want a good quality boot, but are willing to give up some features for a more affordable price. I’ve ridden in a few other boots in this segment and at its sub $300 USD price, I think that the Corozal has put a few brands on notice. In contrast to Alpinestars MX boots, the Corozal is pretty toned down in terms of colors. It comes in all black, but I chose the oiled brown suede leather with black TPU shift pad & shin plate. It has an old school look that appeals to me and apparently others when I shared a pic on Instaglam. One design feature that stands out is that the Corozal only has two buckles. But, after many miles of use, both with & without in-the-boot knee protection, I can’t say that I noticed any downsides vs. boots with as many as 2x the buckles. They most certainly go on & come off quickly. In conjunction with an upper shin plate enclosure has a pretty generous patch of strong Velcro, the boots feel secure on your feet. Since we’re talking about buckles, the Corozal doesn’t get the aluminum units found on their upper-tier Toucan Gore-Tex Boot, but they function well nonetheless. Adjustment is the typical serrated back push in/pull out buckle straps with an arrowhead tip that easily threads through the buckle latch, closing securely with a "snap". When closed, the instep buckle does stick out a bit. There is a molded TPU ramp to deflect latch snags, but the buckle strap has an outward arc to it. While I didn’t manage to get trail brush jammed under it, it’s entirely possible. When I first slid the boots on, I thought that they were going to be too tight. They go on snugly. In hindsight, I felt this way because my current ADV/dual sport boots are on the loosie-goosie side by comparison. The Corozal are more form fitting and no matter how many hours I had them on, they were comfy. My rule of thumb is that if I notice something while I’m riding, it’s probably not that comfy and these boots were very much put on and forget about em’. Lastly, no break-in was required; they felt good right out of the box. Sizing appears to be true, the max circumference of the opening is 18”, and each boot weighs in at slightly over 3lbs.. The Corozal features a molded vulcanized sole that offers good foot peg traction and support in rougher conditions, but unfortunately the instep section is not replaceable for wear. Alpinestars did a good job balancing sole rigidity with walkability. Buyers in this segment do some walking when exploring and you can do so in the Corozal without looking like a robot. Not sure I'd do a 5 mile hike in them, but I have a bike. Why would I want to!? Also aiding walkability and operation of foot controls is what Alpinestars calls “Bio-mechanical lateral “flexi-blade” system”. More simply, it’s a semi-hinged system that allows for fore & aft movement at the ankle while maintaining proper support and protection. I had no issue with movements necessary for accurate shifts or rear brake modulation, but after a few rides, the hinge developed a squeak when walking. On Instaglam, others reported the same issue and when I mentioned this to the Alpinestars folks, they suggested a couple squirts of Silicone spray. This worked like a charm. In terms of protection, above I stated that I thought the boot was good for up to moderate dual sport use. Surely there are more protective off-road boots in the Alpinestars line-up and in the market in general, but for the audience the boot was designed for, I think the Corozal has the key areas covered. The toe box is hardened, steel shank, reinforced ankle, and TPU shin plate. The only area that I’d like see more protection built into is at the back of the calf. It does have foam padding that will absorb some hits, but I’d like to see some strategically placed TPU here. But I have to remind myself, sub $300 price tag… going to have to give on something. Lastly, Alpinestars doesn't specifically lists the Corozal’s Drystar membrane layer as waterproof, but “proven performance in difficult weather conditions.” Unfortunately, since I started riding with them in December, central FL has had very little rain. Probably the driest winter I recall. So, none of the riding conditions really tested this. However, I hosed them down pretty good with a garden hose for a couple of minutes and didn't notice any water intrusion. So, at the very least, I’d call them highly water resistant. I’ll need a wet FL summer to test waterproofness. I’ll report back. Overall, I like the Alpinestars Corozal Drystar Boot. They appear to be well made, comfortable, don’t hinder use of foot controls or walking, and offers a good level of protection for the ADV and mild to moderate dual sport riders they are targeting. Top the package off with a sub $300 price tag and they are serious competition for the segment. But, don’t take my word for it… No substitute for putting a pair on your feet for a bit at your local Alpinestars dealer.
Posted by Bryan Bosch on Apr 26, 2017

John Gallagher: "Bottom line it ends with me!"
With controversy surrounding Supercross this season associated with inconsistent penalties, I decided rather than criticize FIM Race Director John Gallagher I would sit down with him to understand what his job fully entailed.  After talking with John, I left with the impression that he is both knowledgeable about Supercross and truly cares about his position, the riders, and the crowd.  I also left with more questions about the overall rule structure of Supercross, specifically how loose the rule book is, ultimately allowing for human interpretation.  This is part 1 of my look behind the curtains of Supercross and who makes the important decisions.  This is all about John Gallagher, his responsibilities, decisions and his thought process. Who is John Gallagher and how did he get started in Supercross?  His involvement in Supercross began in 1976 as a flagger, from there he continued officiating and racing locally until he graduated from Riverside City College with Associates of Science in Motorcycle Technology.  Throughout his journey, John has been an official in Supercross, MTEG Ultracross, 4-Stroke Nationals, Thunder Bikes, Arenacross, Dirt Track, X-Games, and Endurocross from 1976 until present day.   When preparing for a race, John will fly into the race city the Thursday before racing weekend and spend his Friday and Saturday at the track.   His job consists of three different facets.   First is safety, John relies on his years of experience to determine the safety standards.  He does this by making sure there are no immediate dangers to the racers, officials, and crowd.  As it pertains to the crowd; making sure rocks, dirt chunks or motorcycles cannot make contact or do harm to any race fan.  A particular area of concern is behind the starting gate, ensuring bikes cannot toss roost into the stands.  The second facet is enforcing the rule book and confirming tech inspection is completed correctly.  The third facet is ensuring the program runs with-in the time allotted.  This includes allowing time for teams to complete bike changes or repairs while staying within the three hour television window.  John also is involved with the input to the promoter to determine the rider breaks and the length in time to give the riders in between heats.  He speaks with the teams and mechanics and considers their input when determining the schedule.  John also has twelve officials placed around the track to act as his eyes during the event.  John trusts each official’s interpretation as if he saw the incident himself.   While he trusts in what his officials’ witness, ultimately, it is John’s decision if a punishment is distributed. I asked John why he did an interview with Jenny Taft before informing Jason Anderson that he had been disqualified from Anaheim 2.  John stated he informed Jason's team manager and was adamant that the responsibility then fell to the team manager to deliver the news as he needed to get back to his duties.  John insisted if Anderson was not informed it was not his or any of the twelve officials’ responsibilities to seek Anderson out.  Once Anderson’s team manager was notified John got back to his nightly duties.  While Jenny Taft didn't have any issues finding Anderson, he was not in the mood to talk.  John told Jenny Taft immediately following the incident, “If it becomes physical on the track or off the track it results in an immediate disqualification.”   In comparison I asked John why Broc Tickle was not disqualified from Toronto after smacking Barcia in the back of the helmet , as that appeared to be “physical” off the track.  John replied, “Every guy knows there is the ability to make somebody swing on you, I could probably provoke you to be very angry with me.”  I also asked John why Tickle didn't receive the same punishment as Anderson at Anaheim 2.  John stated, “Mr. Friese was not doing anything to provoke any part of that [Anderson incident], not anywhere in it.”   In regards to his previous statement to Jenny Taft, I asked if Tickle had taken matters into his own hands by striking Barcia in the back of the helmet and if he should have been disqualified.  John responded, “And running into someone with their motorcycle is not considered the same thing?, which is what Justin did in reverse, those guys got close to each other and had a discussion but it was nothing like what Anderson did to Vince Friese, you cannot compare the two.  No possible way.”    John viewed the Anderson incident as one sided, while viewing the Tickle and Barcia incident as a couple of racers working out their issues. Therefore the latter punishment issued did not warrant severity.  I asked John, if Barcia ran his bike into Tickle after the race and Tickle smacked Barcia’s helmet, wouldn't he sit them both down for the night?  John said, “Not necessary to sit either guy down.  They had a disagreement, it got heated and I dealt with it.  Anderson’s incident was not this, it was all one sided. He was dealing with this issue because of what he thought happened on the track, and by the way, he [Anderson] was incorrect.  What happened on the track was not Friese’s fault.”  I asked John if Barcia was on probation and he confirmed, “No.  He was warned but not to that degree.”  He also stated when the Barcia and Tickle incident got out of hand he had to interject himself, but he preferred to let them work it out first.  Both teams got involved and asked for action, so he had no choice to intervene and punish both riders.  Tickle’s punishment included starting last in the Semi, receiving a written warning, and paying a fine.  Barcia received a written warning.   As far as the Chad Reed/Blue flag penalty, John informed me he contacted Reed on the Monday after the event informing him of his penalty.  At this time he tried every possible way to inform Reed of the appropriate way to appeal the penalty in a proper and timely fashion.  John attempted to inform Reed of the proper procedure, due to Reed’s past incident with the Black Flag and Trey Canard.  Once the black flag has been thrown, Reed had no way to appeal the penalty.  John confirmed this was not the reason he did not Black Flag Reed.  His concern was related to making sure Dungey didn't have another issue that might be slowing him down, such as a tire going down or a clutch slipping.  If Dungey was experiencing any issues, and Reed wasn't holding him up, then it would be unfair to Black Flag Reed.  Upon finding out Dungey had no issues, and to also have time to analyze all facets of the incident, is when John decided to penalize Reed.   As far as inconsistent punishments, John stated, “my job is to change behavior.  If a rider feels a certain behavior is acceptable and the rest of the paddock doesn't feel it is acceptable, I have to figure out how to take a group of people that are vastly different in ability, quality of team, and funding, to find a way to make this all work.”  In relation to different punishments for different riders John stated, “in regard to Jason Anderson, points are a big deal.  A fine not so much.  If you flip the situation and Friese threw the punches, a fine that would affect Anderson would bankrupt a Vince Friese and Vince doesn't have enough points for what Jason lost at that race now.  Vince would still owe me points.”   John determines decisions based on what is “equitable to each rider,” and the rule book allows this. Bottom line is punishments are his decision.  I asked if John considered punishing Barcia in St. Louis for his take out of Alex Ray (which he didn't see until watching the event on television Monday or Tuesday) and he said he told Barcia, “Justin learned that type of thing not only screwed the other guy but also took him out as well.”  He continued, “Is that the way you want to move forward because you are riding in the back right now?”  John admits there is no clear way to determine when an action requires punishment or it would be written in the rule book.  He determines punishments on a rider’s intent and whether or not riders can sort it out themselves.  His tasks do not physically allow him to interject himself in every issue.  In regard to punishments, John said, “Bottom line is it ends with me!" In Part 2 I will dive into the rule book and show how loopholes could be closed and ensure less human interjection.  This will draw clearer lines as to what is a penalty and what punishments should apply.  
Posted by Chris Cooksey on Apr 25, 2017

Oil for dummies: Bel-Ray answered my simple questions.
Oil for the common man: With all the talk about ratings and magical additives included in oil these days, I wanted to get with the guys at Bel-Ray (Andrew Hodges and Chris “Dang” McAvoy) to see how they could simplify things.  Changing oil is a necessary evil, and not a task I personally enjoy.  Working at Western Power Sports I sell many different brands of oil and have experienced the oil manufacturers tell me they have an unbeatable formula only to have an oil competitor explain the previous company was lying and they have the scientific data to prove otherwise.  Now, if you talk to motor builders they all have their favorite brand and a story as to why, maybe a bike that ran with no coolant or their impeccable reliability record.  What does all this mean?  Do formulas matter if I change my oil regularly? -    Yes! Regardless of whether you are changing your oil after 100 miles or 10,000 miles, you still want to have a good quality oil in your bike. Changing it after relatively short intervals does give you the option of running mineral oils without fear of oil degradation being a problem, but even then, it is still advisable to use a high quality product. Friction is there from the first revolution to the last, so an oil that provides excellent wear protection is a good idea no matter how often it is changed. Why do I need motorcycle specific oil, car oil is cheaper and I change it every ride?   -    This is a common preference I see and I definitely get the thinking behind it, but there are some aspects that I don’t believe riders doing this are fully considering.  Let’s assume you manage to find a high quality automotive engine oil that does not contain friction modifiers (which are deal breakers for a wet clutch) but still provides good gear and clutch protection (assuming this is for a bike with a shared sump).  1.    I agree with your comment in your introduction that changing oil is a chore so having to change it every single time I ride sounds like a nightmare. 2.    The cost of buying oil and a filter every single ride does not sound inexpensive no matter how cheap the oil is, so I doubt there is really much money being saved compared to a motorcycle specific product that can be changed much less frequently. 3.    Inexpensive automotive oils typically meet the absolute minimum standards for automotive use, so even a “high performance” car oil’s additive package is likely a bit underwhelming compared to a fully formulated motorcycle oil. 4.    Automobiles exert much less physical shearing on their oil compared to most motorcycles because their engines and transmissions are separate. Therefore, most automotive engine oils do not perform in shear resistance tests as well as motorcycle specific oils should. Viscosity loss due to shear can be a very bad thing for engine life so the product chosen should be verified for shear resistance in gearboxes. Does my motorcycle specific oil brand matter if I change it every ride? -    If the choice is between two brands that perform equally, then no the choice won’t matter. However, if one brand has better performance then the other, the choice should be clear.  Brand choice does matter, but there are many good brands to choose from. I have an obvious bias for Bel-Ray products, but my personal belief, because of the testing we do here, is that Bel-Ray products are the best in the market. Our approach to formulating and testing has provided us with decades of success and excellence. The methods we use to evaluate and develop our products have given us some of the best performing products we can find on the market today. So if you are trying to choose a brand, I am more than happy to shamelessly recommend Bel-Ray to you. What oil is best for bikes without separate gear oil?  Will a full synthetic make my clutch slip? -    The best oil to use in a bike with a shared sump for the engine and the transmission is a JASO rated engine oil. All JASO rated engine oils have to meet the minimum API standards for their respective performance levels so engine performance is guaranteed. However, the JASO regulations include additional performance requirements including clutch performance. There are four levels of performance in the JASO regulation, but only three of them are for combined sumps with a wet clutch: MA, MA1 and MA2. The only difference between MA, MA1, and MA2 is with regards to their results in a clutch friction test, but that difference is important.  o    MA1 has the lowest amount of friction o    MA has a medium amount of friction o    MA2 has the highest amount of friction MA1 and MA oils have a lower amount of friction between the clutch plates which results in more slipping between clutch plates. Slipping the clutch to some degree is important to control power delivery, but I would much rather prefer to rely on my own use of the clutch lever than the oil limit the power delivery. Therefore I prefer MA2 oils, which have the strongest clutch engagement properties. These oils give the least amount of slipping and strongest engagement. Without slipping, less wear and overheating occurs in the clutch so it will extend clutch life as well. Another aspect of an oil that needs to serve as both engine and transmission lubricant is the gear protection. Extreme pressure protection is important to protect gear surfaces from damage in high torque applications. So you should look for an engine oil that provides that protection. -    The concept that a full synthetic oil will make the clutch slip had some truth to it thirty years ago but not in today’s oils. The synthetic base oils and the additives we use today are all evaluated meticulously for their effects on performance and we only use components we know will work in the application we are formulating for. What oil is best for bikes with separate gear oil? -    In the engine, once the issue of the combined transmission is removed, there are a lot more options for the engine oil. In general a friction modified product with friction reducing additives is ideal for this type of situation. Similar to automotive oils, an oil designed just for the engine does not need to include extreme pressure additives so the focus of the formula can be on anti-wear and friction reduction. This type of product generally produces less heat, increases horsepower , and minimizes wear compared to a product designed for a shared sump. The best oil for the transmission is one that enhances the clutch’s performance and protects the transmission from damage. An oil that has good extreme pressure protection without the use of friction reducing additives and a robust additive package to inhibit degradation is the recipe for success for the transmission oil. JASO rated engine oils are typically suitable in this application, but they often have unnecessary components required for the engine that may limit some of the performance in the transmission. If I run full synthetic, can I wait longer before oil changes? -    In general yes. A full synthetic engine oil should provide a higher level of resistance to oxidation. Oxidation of the oil is the main factor in oil degradation so reducing the oxidation rate extends the life of the oil. If you have two identically formulated oils with the exception of one being a fully synthetic polyalphaolefin (PAO) and ester blend and the other being a conventional/mineral product, the synthetic product will often last more than double the time of the mineral before a change is needed. Do I really need a new oil filter every oil change? -    Is it absolutely necessary? Probably not, but I would still suggest it as a good practice.  The filter is there to catch wear particles and contaminants in the oil during circulation. Those contaminants are usually things that promote oxidation and accelerate the overall degradation of the oil. So if you change the oil but leave the old filter in place, you are circulating your fresh oil through the crud that was already filtered out and exposing it to those contaminants right away. By doing this you are immediately accelerating the degradation of the oil before any new contaminants can even make their way into the bike. Alternatively, by changing the filter each time, you are removing those things and giving the bike a fresh start each time and maximizing oil life. I have had an oil brand with the exact same bottle and two different colors, any idea why this would happen? -    Formula changes are pretty common in our industry. We are somewhat less regulated than the automotive engine oil marketplace so we have a little more freedom to go outside the box and develop and change our formulas.  Certain additives are naturally colorful, so they may impart some color to the final formula. So formula changes are one possibility that could change the color. Another possibility is the base oil being used. Common base oil colors range from being as clear as water to as dark as molasses. There are others that have slight green, blue, or red tints them as well. The most commonly used base oils are either clear or some shade of amber, but occasionally those others may be used and they will influence the finished product’s appearance. If everyone is treating the oil with their own additives, does it matter what base oil they start with? -    Base oil selection is important no matter what additives are being used. I’ve always likened it to coffee beans (additives) and water (base oil). If you have some great coffee beans there is going to be a big difference between the coffee made with them using clean spring water or dirty sewer water. Starting with a subpar base oil immediately puts a product at a disadvantage. Likewise, starting with an excellent base oil immediately gives the product a head start. The base oil’s performance is the performance base line and the additives being blended in build on that baseline performance.  There are performance differences within the petroleum base fluid range and there are differences within the synthetic base fluid range. The distinction between base oils is not just between petroleum and synthetics either. There are wide ranges to choose from in both mineral and synthetic base oils with varying quality levels. A well formulated mineral oil will compare very favorably to a poorly formulated synthetic product, so the total formula is important. Focusing on a single component does not give you a full picture of the oil’s performance. Thanks for the info guys!
Posted by Chris Cooksey on Apr 23, 2017

The Beginning of the Journey
I’M BACK! Hello ThumperTalk readers! My name is Scott Meshey. If you’re from the Motocross community there is a good chance you might know me through my blog series from Vurbmoto “Life with the Mesheys”, if not, please check my profile. Get to know me, and I hope you follow along with this blog series. For this entry, I’ll dish out some background and where I am headed right now, kicking off the start of the series. So let’s get to it! My blog series for Vurbmoto ran for 3 and a half years until their recent shutdown. The opportunity to share my experiences through Vurb and now on ThumperTalk is something I truly enjoy. This blog series will follow my progression, good, bad, and everything in between to the pro ranks, sharing my experiences and wisdom I gain along the way. Whether you ride the trails on the weekends, hit the back roads after work, are a serious racer, or a parent of a racer, I hope my experiences give insight not only to just Motocross racing, but I hope they give a unique perspective of the challenges behind the goggles. I want readers to enjoy reading my experiences, but I also want others that aspire to achieve the same goals as myself, particularly the youngsters of the sport, to learn from these blogs in their quest to be the best.  I’ve been riding since I was 4. I started competing at amateur Motocross nationals when I was about 9 or 10 years old, contending at the Loretta Lynn’s Amateur Motocross National 9 years in a row, the Winter National Olympics or “Mini O’s”, the RCSX at Daytona, the Lake Whitney Spring Championship, the Mill Creek Spring Classic, and the JS7 Freestone National Championship. I’ve ridden for several amateur teams, and had the privilege of working with some legends of the sport. In 2016, I jumped into the pro Arenacross series for a few rounds to get experience in the pro ranks. Unfortunately, my experience was cut short by unresolved health problems from a bad case of pneumonia in 2015.    Loretta Lynn’s 2015, Picture by Sarah Behrens Photography  This brings me to where I am today. After hitting the reset button and off the bike for a year, I’m back home in the motocross scene, eager to continue sharing my story and experiences with the dirt biking world, back to good health with amazing people behind me. I’ll be going to Loretta’s for my 10th year in the 250A and Open Pro Sport classes, and jumping into the pro Motocross series thereafter.  Come along for the ride and tap/click the follow button! I’ll see you at the races. Scott Meshey #141  
Posted by Scott Meshey 141 on Apr 14, 2017

Don't Read Unless You're Serious About Your Speed!
@Scott Meshey 141 When it comes to preparing for a new season of training and racing, there are several tricks to performing at your full potential.  When it comes to the human body, you must realize that you are only as fast as your weakest link!  Let’s take a look at a few tricks that you can implement today: Test Your Fitness Regularly Your season needs to be broken up into four definitive seasons: Pre-Season, Pre-Competitive, Competitive (with several peak performances) and the Off Season.  During each of these training cycles, you want to begin each cycle with a series of base line assessments to establish a quantified measurement of your sport specific speed, strength, endurance and lactate tolerance. During each training cycle, the focus of your efforts changes according to your race schedule – you don’t want to be working on your endurance too much when your race schedule requires short, explosive efforts.   Know Your Sweat Rate It is imperative that you know how much and when you should be drinking to avoid either dehydration (not enough water) or hyponatremia (too much water).  Your goal is to stay within 2-3% loss during each workout. Research has shown that if you lose more than 3% of your body weight in sweat, the strength of your muscle contractions can diminish by 10-12% robbing you of both speed & endurance.   To receive a copy of MotoE’s Sweat Rate Calculation Spreadsheet, email me directly.  This simple resource will ensure that you are not drinking too much or too little which will help you train and race to your full potential. Maintain a Food Log Your daily food log should have three pieces of information for each day: what time, how much & what you ate.  This data will provide you a clear snap shot of the quality and quantity of food you are consuming on a daily basis.  Many times, the lack of muscular endurance is a result of inadequate amounts of food (i.e. fuel) coming into the body resulting in low blood sugar.  Low blood sugar can lead to a lack of mental concentration, weaker muscle contractions and lack of consistent speed.  To receive a copy of MotoE’s Food/Energy Spreadsheet, email me directly.  This simple resource will ensure that you are getting the right amount and type of foods to sustain your duration and intensity levels.    Reduce Your Body Fat It is not a surprise that lighter racers have a lower overall core body temperature than heavier athletes; this is a result of body fat to lean muscle ratios.  The same principle applies to speed & endurance – the stronger and lighter the body, the easier it is to produce and maintain a fast rate of speed.  To accurately measure your body fat/lean muscle ratios, utilize a combination of tape & caliper measurements.  These two forms of measurement are the cheapest & most accurate (second only to submersion which is difficult to find and cost prohibitive) way of seeing how your body composition is changing specific to your food, hydration and workout/performance logs (relevant to volume & intensity).   By evaluating your body measurements and skin fold measurements every six weeks, you will get an accurate snapshot of your program and determine if your training efforts are delivering the incremental progression that you outlined in your goal profile.  To receive a copy of our MotoE’s Body Measurements Spreadsheet, please email me directly.   Establish a Warm-up Routine Nearly every new athlete we have worked with says the same thing “I always feel better at the end of the race than I do at the beginning of the race”.  This is because the rider has used the first half of the race to “warm up” - the scientific term is called the Lactic Acid Shuffle.  When the body burns stored carbohydrates (i.e. glycogen) it releases a hydrogen atom that acidic in nature – hence the feeling of burning in the muscles.  As the body becomes more acclimated to the presence of this hydrogen, your circulatory system increases its efficiency and rids itself (actually reabsorbs) of this burning sensation.  In order to improve both your opening speed along with maintaining that speed throughout the race, a warm up that is specific in duration, intensity and time before your actual race is imperative to performing at an optimal level.   Visit a Chiropractor and Massage Therapist When you recognize that muscles stay tight when bones are out of alignment and that bones get pulled out of place when muscles are tight, you recognize that these two modalities are synergistic – you shouldn’t have one without the other.  A qualified massage therapist will help you identify what muscle(s) that are chronically tight which will help direct your stretching efforts to eliminate any future muscle strains and/or tears. An in-line spine and flexible muscles will allow for proper biomechanics which will produce faster speeds & improved endurance.  Please email me directly for more information about what to look for regarding a qualified massage therapist and chiropractor.   Get Some Blood Work When you have your blood drawn, 99% of the time, they draw and evaluate a partial panel; however, a full panel will provide you better insight regarding your overall health – especially the health of your blood cells.  For example, when you train and race hard, you break down your red blood cells, which are necessary to carry fresh oxygen to the working muscles.  If you’re RBC (red blood count) is down, you will feel sluggish and fatigued for long periods of time and not know why – you have a low red blood count.   By having your blood drawn every 12 weeks (once a quarter), you can evaluate the effects of your food, hydration and training schedule as it relates to your overall health.  Please note the ranges that are established on your blood panel reports are established based on the absence of disease verses a more important range referred to in the human performance world as functional health.  Your optimal health and performance ranges are nowhere near what is outlined on your blood results data sheets, hence the need for a qualified physician who understands the nature of your sport and its demands on your body.   At MotoE, we have a staff of physicians that can read and evaluate your full blood panel results and make recommendations to improve your health and ultimately performance.  Please email me directly for more information about this service.   Listen to Your Body One of the worst things that you can do to your body is to stop listening to the external signs that your body is either hurt or fatigued.  By tracking your morning heart rate, you will be provided specific feedback on how your body is responding to stress (virus, training, hungry, dehydrated, etc.) and whether or not you should workout today (in any way) – our rule of thumb is that if your resting heart rate is up by more than 5 beats, you don’t train but rather eat cleanly and go back to bed.  The signs of injury are pretty obvious: the injured area is swollen, hot to the touch, tender to the touch, discolored, and has limited range of motion.   These self defense mechanisms are designed to provide you feedback so that you can make adjustments that will turn these conditions around.  If you take pain medication, this only masks your body’s natural receptors of pain, which increases your risk of further injury or illness. At MotoE, we have numerous cross reference tools to keep our riders from getting burned out, overly fatigued which helps them avoid injury or illness.  It is imperative that you pay close attention to your body’s external signs: elevated morning heart rate, a normal workout effort is harder than normal, suppressed appetite, low motivation and excessive muscle soreness are examples that are easy to identify.     Establish Goals and Training Objectives to Achieve To maximize your productivity and ensure that you are achieving your personal racing goals you must establish three sets of goals: 3 months out, 6 months out and 12 months out.  The reason for the three sets of goals is associated with how long it takes the body to develop the necessary physiological elements (i.e. strength, endurance, lactate tolerance, flexibility, etc.).  The objectives that are established for each goal are based on the results of your baseline assessments – nothing will keep you on the straight line of success like honest evaluation of your assessments. Either your endurance is getting better or it isn’t – what you choose to do with this information is the difference between a champion and a good racer.  To receive a copy of MotoE’s Goal & Objective Spreadsheet, email me directly. Have Fun! Don’t lose sight of the fact that you took on racing for the fun and the challenge.  No matter what happens on race day, be thankful that you had the opportunity to go out and race (at whatever level) and that no one can ever take that experience away from you – ever! ***** Thank you for taking the time to read!  If you have any current frustrations that you would like some help breaking down, please don’t hesitate to drop me and my team an email.  We would enjoy answering your questions and getting you on the path to success immediately. Yours in health and sport,  Robb Beams Owner-Founder of MotoE’s Complete Racing Solutions
Posted by Coach Robb on Apr 05, 2017

General

My Contents
Before the latest site update, I could go to my content and it would show topics that I posted or replied to, and it would also show the latest replie.  All I had to do was click on the date, and it would take me to the last post. Now when I go to my content, it doesn't update to the latest post, I have to go to the first page and work my way to the end. I did try clicking on different things, but know I have it really out of order.  It now shows my contents form 2016. I know it's user error, and would appreciate any help.
Knee brace after total knee replacement
I just had my left knee replaced about 8 weeks ago due to a nasty tibia plateau fracture that happened about 15 years ago at the age of 27.  Before the surgery I wore Don Joy carbon knee braces for the instabilities I had in my left knee, and my right knee I have a torn ACL.  The biggest reason I wore them though is for support in my left knee.  With the TKR I just had done, the Dr says that I shouldn't have any instability issues with my left knee.  Should I wear braces, or just a sleeve?   Dr Mark:  I read an 11 year old thread where you suggested just a sleeve and some shin guards with patella protection.  Is that still your position?  Any recommendations on sleeves?   I'm still probably a couple of months away from riding.  Going to physical therapy 3 times a week.  I have about 110 degrees range of motion, but it's painful and tight past 90ish at the moment.  I believe I still just need some time for things to settle down in my knee so it won't get so inflamed.  I ride woods and can't wait to get back on the bike.
Disable inline "Quote This" popup on object highlight
I'll admit it ... i'm an obsessive highlighter.  http://www.urbandictionary.com/define.php?term=compulsive highlighter The inline "Quote This" becomes quite annoying.    The feature itself isn't required - clicking "Quote" then trimming unnecessary parts of the quoted text yields the same end result.    Any way that feature could be turned off per-user?

Dirt Bike

Finding the right bike for hare scrambles
Over the past few years I have been racing hare scrambles and have progressed to where I'm in B class on decently tight trails with rocks and whatnot. I'm a skilled rider but 5'11 and 145lbs and am looking for a race bike (ttr125s). I had a 2001 CR250 that I converted to a woods machine and loved it and sold it to try out the commonly used ktms. I tried a 2010 300xcw (I know it was too much bike for me) and could never get comfortable on it as it always felt twitchy, harsh, and not planted unlike my cr even after getting the suspension redone on the 300. I then traded that for a 2012 250 sx that I also converted to woods (suspension and all) and hated for the same reason. It was twitchy, not planted, and beat the crap out of me pretty much. And now I'm on a 2014 kx450f that feels amazingly planted but is a terrible woods bike. (Didn't plan on keeping it, was just going to use it to get some cash for college). I've always heard that yz125s and yz250s are amazing in terms of their handling and suspension departments. I'm considering one of these two as I have found I do not like how ktms feel. Being as light as I am, I feel like a 125 might be okay torque wise in addition to the fact that I'm experienced. I want a bike that I can ride FAST on in the woods and I understand that power may not be the answer because on all of my bikes that have been obviously too big I have noticed that I get a ridiculous amount of wheel spin in the trees and that wears me out more than anything. At the same time, I have had success on a 250 2 stroke. On a 125 I could get over or through anything because of how light it is. Has anybody (who is not a beginner rider) raced a 125 in the woods and felt like it had enough power. Or should I just go with my gut and get a yz 250?
looking for people to ride with in NorCal
Hey guys, Ive got a group of buddies to ride with, but it seems like they are rarely available anymore. Looking for riders in NorCal. I'm in Santa Rosa, typically ride at Cow Mountain or Mendocino National forest. Fast C, slow B rider. My schedule is normally pretty flexible so riding during the week is an option. I'm cool with riding serious or casual. PM if interested. Thanks!
Suspension setting or poor riding technique?
I ride a 2007 yz250f (I'm a decent rider), and I just replaced my fork seals. I tried to set the compression and rebound adjustments back to where they were before, but I'm having some challenges when I try to ride over whoops that I don't remember having before. I've been practicing getting my front wheel up a little bit when I ride over the whoops, which I'm usually successful for a few of them, then I hit the next few slower until I get the front wheel up again. Anyway, on my last ride, when the front wheel came down my back end kept bucking up and throwing me forward. Does my whoops riding technique just suck or can I blame it on improperly adjusted suspension?

ATV/UTV

NC Crew..........chime in.......
Live in Durham........well actually Orange County, but I have a Durham address. I also work in Chapel Hill.....

Street

sr500 running red hot
Hi all, I have had my 1978 SR500 is storage for 13 years and over the last year I have done a base restoration but yet to do any work on the motor. The bike was running well last in use  (13 years ago). I have recently got it stated and noticed it is running extremely hot and backfiring, the idle speed also varies a fair bit. i have had the carb cleaned and put a new air filter in but both didn't seem to make a difference. would anybody have any suggestions how to fix this problem. would love your thoughts. cheers
DRZ Carb issue?
Hey all, Any help is very much appreciated. I have a DRZ400SM and was experiencing a few flat spots on the highway, meaning that when I hit 40mph the bike just lagged and then returned to normal at 45mph, happened again between 60-65 and 70-75mph. After doing some research on the the web I thought it might be a dirty carb. I watched a few tutorials and took the carb out. It was clean from what I could see, so I put everything back together. After getting the bike put back together it wouldn't start. Finally when I put it the petcock on Prime it started up, but when it started it was revving pretty high. I thought the revving was because I needed to adjust the throttle cable. So I adjusted the cable and started it again. After starting and sounded right it stalled. I figured it stalled  because it was cold or there was only a little fuel in the system. I left it for a couple days and started it again. Everything seemed fine for the first couple blocks to the gas station, but then I noticed the bike wanted to stall. As I rode back home the bike struggled to make it and was back firing like crazy. Once home I noticed that the couple days I left the bike sit, it was in the Prime position. Ok, a few questions: I'm questioning whether I put the carb back in properly, thats why it didnt start initially. How can I check? It does start, but only in Prime. Wont start in On or Reserve position. Did leaving it Prime flood the carb? Why is it back-firing so much? I know these might be big broad questions, but ANY help is greatly appreciated! Thanks!!!      

Snow

YZ250FX stunt cage?
Does anyone know of a YZ250FX for sale anywhere? Or will I have to make a custom one? (Sorry I'm new, not sure where to post this)
1993 storm 750
I have a 1993 storm 750 with psi pipes what should it be jetted at. At 900 alavaion ??
Unreal last few days!
Amazing conditions all through March and into April! Last three days of sledding skiing and pow surfing! April Pow! 17 Mountain Goats and enjoying the season as it winds down! Hope you had a great season and have a sweet summer! dave

PWC

For Sale: Kawasaki ALL NEW 2017 Kawasaki SX-R 4 stroke 160HP STAND UP
Kawasaki ALL NEW 2017 Kawasaki SX-R 4 stroke 160HP STAND UP Price: $4800 U.S Dollars. Condition: New     Make: Kawasaki Model Year: 2017     Contact us through Email or Text for Purchase: [email protected] Phone Number: +1-510-815-9080 WhatsApp: +1-510-351-9474 Text the Number for immediate reply. Vehicle Description  The all new 2017 Kawasaki SX-R will amaze you.  The most powerful stand up Jet Ski ever produced with DOUBLE the power of the previous Stand Up!  Off the line 0 to 50 meters is FASTER than the Ultra 310R!  148mm three blade stainless impeller hooks up instantly.  The all new V-shape hull offers high stability and superb cornering.  The engine is positioned low and closer to the rider for a confident feel.  The hull sits high in the water, contributing to stability when stopped or moving at very low speeds.  Sponsons contribute to overall stability as well as sharp, clean cornering.  The rider tray has a forward slant to help riders brace against the SX-R's strong acceleration and the raised portion at the rear provides a place to plant your rear foot!  This is ONE AWESOME Jet Ski.  RESERVE YOURS TODAY. ---------------------------------------- Mercury 15 HP 4 Stroke Outboard Motor Tiller 15" Shaft Boat Engine  Price: $1500 USD Contact us through Email or Text for Purchase: [email protected] Phone Number: +1-510-815-9080 WhatsApp: +1-510-351-9474 Text the Number for immediate reply. The large 21.4 cubic inch displacement powerhead of the Mercury 15hp develops plenty of low-end torque, making it an excellent source of power for medium to larger sized jon boats, skiffs, and inflatables. Mercury's multi-function tiller handle, easy auto-ratchet tilt, and vibration-absorbing wishbone mounts are just a few of the exclusive features found on Mercury 15hp models. Specifications Horsepower @ Propeller:    15hp Engine Type:    4-Stroke, 2-Cylinder, SOHC Full Throttle RPM Range:    5000-6000 Displacement:    351 cc (21.4 cubic inches) Bore and Stroke:    61 x 60 mm (2.40 x 2.36 inches) Fuel Induction System:    Single Overhead Cam (SOHC) Ignition System:    Digital CD Ignition w/Electronic Spark Advance Fuel System:    Single Venturi Carburetor Cooling System:    Water-Cooled, Thermostatically Controlled Starting:    Manual Alternator:    Optional 12V 138W 12A (installation required) Gear Ratio:    2.15:1 Gear Shift:    Forward-Neutral-Reverse (shift in tiller handle) Steering:    Tiller Trim Positions:    6 Manual Positions with Auto-Ratchet Tilt Operation Lubrication:    Trochoid Pump Oil Type:    SAE 10W-30 (Mercury 4-Stroke Outboard Oil) Oil Capacity:    1 Quart (1000 ml) Fuel Type:    87 Octane (up to 10% ethanol content) Fuel Tank (integral):    No Fuel Range:     External Tank Ready:    Yes includes 6.6 Gal. Fuel Tank + Quick Connect Fuel Line C.A.R.B. Rating:    Ultra-Low Emission (3-STAR) Saltwater Rated:    Yes Shaft Length:    15"  (Shaft Size Help) Weight:    111 lbs (50 kg)
Honda
I have a 2001 honda xr200r that just got a fresh top end rebuild. I've cleaned the carb 5 times re-timed it 3 times including checking valve clearance and it does not run properly. I've even noticed it blowing out exhaust or air through side of air cleaner. Any idea on what's going on?
2017 SX-R Jet Ski
Kawasaki had the new 2017 SX-R Jet Ski at the Toronto Motorcycle Cycle show this weekend. It has a1500cc 4 cylinder in-line 4 stroke engine. It looks awesome!

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