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  2. I wont say I am an ATGATT kinda guy, I wear what I consider to be appropriate for the ride. At a minimum I always wear a helmet, gloves, and boots that cover my ankles. Minimal gear for something like the mile and half ride to get something from the grocery or the Walmart... If I'm planning to ride then I add in MX boots, jacket with shoulder,elbow, back protection, pants with knee protection and hip pad. If I'm trail riding or specific off-road riding then I exchange the jacket and pants for full CE body armor , knee brace/guards, neck brace, and enduro pants. That doesn't meant that I wont wear full off-road gear on the street, but I don't like to wear off-road gear/MX boots if I may be walking around. I see some better walking boots in my future Level of protection relevant to threat and comfort. With consideration for budget, protection or comfort tend to trade off.
  3. Not technically accurate...
  4. I gently tried that last night but the top wouldn't come off of the B-10 plug without applying force that could damage the head of it, and I didn't want to mangle a plug that I might have to use this weekend. :\
  5. Post here if you wanna go ride but can't b/c of work / school / responsibilities. I'm itchin to hit the trails on my YZ!!!
  6. Try now I put some more VP in the tank! theDogger
  7. I'm not familiar with these particular plugs but can you unscrew the top from your old plug and put it on the new one? Any plug I have ever bought that was similar to the B plug pictured above just had a threaded on cap.
  8. As far as I can tell this the case. Caliper and banjos aren't leaking, so I'm guessing at this point it's the master. I picked one up off of eBay that is supposed to be ready to "bolt and go." With any luck, it really will be. If I have a chance tonight I'll disassemble the master and send some pics to see if you experienced guys notice something that my amateur eyes do not. I haven't seen any air bubbles from the traditional bleeding method (whether holding the caliper up or not) in at least a half bottle of fluid.. so I'm hoping there isn't air still clinging in the lower end of the system. I'm fighting the pragmatic in myself at this point I'm incredibly curious to know exactly what I'm doing wrong so want to keep investigating.. That said, I'd really like (a) to be riding again and ( not end up paying the whole cost it would've been just to take it to someone. With that in mind, I suppose who could put a price on such a (frustrating) learning experience? Seriously though, thanks for your help guys. I'm pretty determined to figure this out. I figure no matter what bike I have, this is the kind of maintenance I ought to be able to do myself. Short of rebuilding the rear shock (well at least filling with nitrogen) and replating the cylinder, I really want to be able to do the rest myself. For the most part I enjoy this stuff, but 2.5 weeks on the same front brakes becomes a bit old I appreciate your guys' patience and persistence going through this slow process with me Like I said, I'll try to tear down my current MC when I have a chance and hopefully when I put the one coming in on it will magically work. Then I can focus my efforts in understanding how I screwed up my MC rebuild. I followed the manual for cup direction and so forth, but who knows.
  9. Thank you for correcting me I'm sure everyone was quite confused with what I was asking.
  10. Hey guys, still trying to work on the drz. Trying to get more power from it, it seems like its lacking. It has a FCR-MX , 3x3 and I ride at 4500' . I just jetted to a 145, clip3 , EMR needle. I guess I could change the needle to EMP which may be a little better but, just saw Gladius John on youtube. He just installed a FCR and the bike pulls up in second! I can get the wheel an inch off the ground in first when I open it up. The only difference would be me running a stock exhuast. Would this really make that much differnce? Is my next step to remove my carb and start playing with other jets? Heres the video I am referring too.
  11. Sorry it took so long to get back here but life gets in the way. It was a way out of wack fuel screw. Set it to 2.5 out and got it running and adjusted from there, now nice cold starts consistently....thanks everyone!!
  12. Another thought I had is if it's replacing a part you could always pull the old part off and trace the part (if it's flat), so that you will have the distance between holes. Like for a new sprocket cover or something like that. You'd just have to measure the distance it would have to be the sprocket...
  13. Wow, they put 100K miles on the L and the only issue they had (other than regular maintenance) was dirt getting into the engine due to an improperly seated air filter. That's really impressive and the main reason I'm a long time Honda fanboy. This is the main part that stuck out to me and why I buy quality Renthal sprokets: Play between the front sprocket and the output shaft: The non-original 13-tooth front sprocket brand JT did not fit perfectly to the shaft, which had caused wear on the output shaft. ... due to the wear on the output shaft, all new sprockets have a little play. In order to prevent further wear on the output shaft, Peter glues the sprockets to the shaft with Locktite 638.
  14. Just be mindful that it produces 30 watts on a good day at high rpm. As long as your led lights are not very demanding, you may have enough power, but this is a budget buy, keeping the factory flywheel is a major plus to this decision. Pleas keep us updated on how it works for you.
  15. Dearest Mr. Wolf I write to you in most desperate terms and conditions. My life, having limited span, most humbly requests your presence at the said "Snake Pit". Not often having the occasion to leave my humble abode and family, worry that an opportunity to cause additional environmental erosion to the hillsides of Southern California may never repeat itself. Should you graciously accept my request to join you in what literary terms can only be described as The Ride of the Century (for me), I offer to carry your bike tool kit for the day. Most sincerest of all, Dagster Blaster the Tiger Tanker
  16. get a good ruler and a micrometer and you should be good to go. pretty much everything that bolts into the frame is either a 10mm or 8mm bolt. get your hands on a bunch of thin cardboard or posterboard and make templates. a good greasy finger is the best tool for locating holes on card templates.
  17. Appreciate it!
  18. Ooopps, sorry. I just found it.
  19. The bike had almost an empty tank from last year so I figured it would burn of quick with the new stuff. Problem is I didn't have any gas the other day and my buddy let me use gas that he uses for his banshee and he told me it was 32:1 and I beilived him. I will take the expansion chamber off today and look inside. How will I be able to spin the crank if the kickstart is "frozen" again? And this time I think it's locked up for for good.. 😐😐😐
  20. Looking good!
  21. Well, I know that according to the race tech website the stock fork springs were exactly what I need for single track riding, unfortunately, those are long gone and the springs in there now are way too stiff for my weight. I would think if the OEM stock fork springs were right for me, that the rear shock would be equally right for my size, but since I can't adjust it the proper sag, it makes me think it's been changed. I'm not dead set on 100mm, that's just what I've been told. I'm riding single track now, but plan on riding Baja in November, so I need to set the sag up for desert/single track, which shouldn't be too far off of each other from what I gather. The problem is, I can't get there from where I'm at.
  22. 300rr re here... I run 50mm of slack, measured with the wheel off the ground. From the end of the slider to the Apex of the chain with my fingers jammed in between. Figure at least 3 fingers. Tight 3 or loose 3… 20mm is absurd.
  23. Decibels....
  24. good question usedtobefast .... but that is a question which I am not of expertise to give a reply ... so let's have a reply for the experienced guru guys
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