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How often do you change your oil filter??


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I clean my SS filter on every change, and replaced my filter every time when I was using paper ones. Every vehicle I've owned in the last 30 years has been this way.

Ditto, No reason to change the oil and not the filter. The cost is not that much. I've had the scott's on my tengai for a while now, it may be expensive to start, but it will make up for it. Especially the first time you have to do an oil change and you have no extra filters.

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I change my oil and filter about every 100 miles. I put in a clean air filter every ride. The oil still looks brand new. Its almost all offroad. I am thinking of changing the oil filter every other oil change ?. I know, its not that expensive, but a twenty five dollar oil change once or twice a month really adds up. I hate to throw away filter after filter that look brand new. Can 200 miles possibly be too much for an oil filter? ?

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Not sure why everyone changes their filters so often.

An old filter will filter better then a new one ( ask any machanic worth has weight) as it is partially blocked (as a rule). The only danger is that the filter gets blocked to the point that it is restrictive (can cause filter failure or oil to bypass filter).

I do 3000km on a filter (usually a few oil changes) with no problems of blockage.

The bigest problem with constant changing of filters is the user contaminating the bike with dust and other nasties. Should always make sure bike is clean and dry before removing filters.

Those S/S filters look great. Remember the finer you filter down to the more often you should replace/clean your filter.

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Weeeeeeeee - Scott's lifetime oil filter ? :cry: ?

Greedy - &%$#@! ?, I personally would rather buy a filter that will filter down to smaller particles by design. It would be uniform and consistent. The idea of buy a filter that allows more debris through in the begining of it's life and then wait until it gets better because it is getting plugged up??? I have never, ever, ever heard of a mechanic say that it is better to use a partially plugged filter than a new one.

I'll tell you what, I'll have everyone send me their "partially plugged" oil filters and then you can buy them from me. Only an additional $2 each for getting them ready for ya ?

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10guy,

This is not what I said.

A filter is designed not to pass a particle which the designer believes can hurt the system (as a minimum). As a paper filter (any filter generally speaking) is used it starts to block and therefore allow less and less of the larger particals to bypass it. As an example lets say we have a 100micro filter which is to say it will allow passing of particals of less then 100 microns in size. As this filter performs its task only smaller particals can bypass it due to the holes blocking ie maybe 80micron passing. Now particals between 80 at 100microns will no longer pass and will be filtered out therefore the filter is filtering . Hence, a dirty filter will filter better then a clean one.

If any machanic says otherwise then he does not know s##t from clay. If you don't believe me then SPEAK to an engine designer or even better a filter designer.

My old man is 62 years old and started his apprenticeship at the age of 14. This was tought to him at the start and still holds to this day. He has had arguments with dump apprentices about this and they have all lost this argument.

I am a mechanical engineer by profession and I tell you that this is correct.

On large filter plants, cleaning is determined by pressure differential accross the filter to minimise cleaning. In theory this is what should dictate when you should change filters. This is hard in practice on small engines as they are not design to allow pressure differential measuring on the filter.

However the statement still stands, a block filter will filter better then a new one. The real question is when does this become a hinderance to the performance of the lubrication system (or a danger to the motor).

I must add that the S/S filters look very good and wouldn't mind putting one in my beast. Again, the better the filter the motor often it will require cleaning/replacing.

Weeeeeeeee - Scott's lifetime oil filter ? :cry: ?

Greedy - &%$#@! ?, I personally would rather buy a filter that will filter down to smaller particles by design. It would be uniform and consistent. The idea of buy a filter that allows more debris through in the begining of it's life and then wait until it gets better because it is getting plugged up??? I have never, ever, ever heard of a mechanic say that it is better to use a partially plugged filter than a new one.

I'll tell you what, I'll have everyone send me their "partially plugged" oil filters and then you can buy them from me. Only an additional $2 each for getting them ready for ya ?

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Greedy.... your theory is fine,, and it applies in the appropriate environment.. But not in motorcycles for the following reasons.

One, the filters as designed trap down to the smallest particle that is critical to the assembly being protected.. So there is no design need to utilize a partially blocked filter, which,, yes true, will to some degree block even smaller particles than the same clean filter.

Two, Part of the reason to remove a filter at every oil change, is to inspect it for foreign matter. You fail that step,, and your likely to miss A: a filter that has been blocked to the point of failure (to design flow needs) B: particles that may clue you in on a mechanical issue in the motor

Three, As you have pointed out,, pressure differential is not a data point you can monitor on any motorcycle I've ridden in the last 20 years,, there for knowing the crucial media saturation point, ie the point that it is no longer capable of supporting the design needs for flow and filtration. Using your "a blocked filter is better" idea,, how do you know when to change it??? The point is you don’t... and can not, even with empirical testing,, checking flow values on many test assembly’s, over time..,, that would only be valid data if all the test parameters were able to be kept constant,, which they can not be in the actual use of the bike.... Rich, lean, dirt ingested, ring blow by, work on a motor allowing contaminates in.. way to many things to actually be able to estimate when a filter has reached it's useful "partially blocked, better filtering: level”.. Soooooooooooooooooooooooooo, ya change it every time ? Why ? because you know, as designed,, when new, that filter will filter down to the smallest particle that is critical for the assembly it is protecting ? (see a reoccurring pattern here?)

It's not your theory that is faulty; it just is not useful, or applicable to this particular system being filtered in real time use.

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Ok stupid question here but seeing that we are on oil filters, where is mine located? Can't seem to find it on the DRZ. I had a honda magna which of course is totally different bike but it was up front and down low. Help a brother out. By the way, I am thinking of using redline oil, what weight should I use?

It's on the right side of the engine. You can't really see it because it's covered by metal cover. Look for a small round metal cover with 3 bolts holding it on. The filter doesn't look like your magna. It's a small paper filter. As for oil weight, I think the manual suggests 10W40.

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