Erik Marquez

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Erik Marquez last won the day on April 9 2011

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About Erik Marquez

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  1. OEM washers for head bolts are steel, not aluminum... I would recommend using the OEM steel washers, make sure you install them flat side down to the head.
  2. Letting the air out of the tires will lower the bike as well, and is equally a bad idea as removing all shock spring preload to lower the bike....Yes it "works" and if you don’t care how the bike rides, and lower seat height is your ONLY concern... hey, go for it. To the new rider considering this as an option. Don’t be surprised when it bottoms over any small bump and G out, causing a loss of control at worst, or traction issues at best.. When you suffer sub frame damage and or shock damage because the spring can no longer do its job of supporting rider and bike weight. Don’t be surprised when the bottom out bumper denigrates in short order, and you have to pay a rebuild fee to have it replaced. As the bumper can only be replaced with a full disassembly. Lowering links and a stiffer rear spring will work OK for mild use....street to fire road at moderate speed kind of thing.
  3. Do you want best or easiest? The two are not the same. The Best is to internally lower the forks and shocks , Valve and spring them at the same time. The easiest is based on perception.... but most would say installing lowering links and raising the stanchions in the forks...... I would also add...thats a terrible way to lower the bike
  4. By chance do you have a picture? Does it look like this ?
  5. I don't believe your mistaken... I've handled DRZ CDI's from all over the world, never seen one different
  6. That retainer is installed backwards, thats why its rubbing. Should be installed curve out like this pic
  7. as pointed out... that is an attempted fix pre preventive fix attempt at a leaking welsh plug
  8. As always Noble is dead on. On a case I had apart anyway that had damaged drain bolt threads.. I used a thread repair solid bushing (I use Time sert) and then used a carbide burr to form the drain hole in the bushing, replicating the OEM design. Not really advisable if the motor is together as metal debris go everywhere.
  9. Now do the research on the normal inconstancy in paper filters. Yes while they CAN filter down to XX microns that same filter WILL allow larger particle though because the media has inconsistent "holes". One of the benefits of a quality SS filter is the constancy in which it can filter. You ever seen an airplane pull over to the brake down lane? Of course not..... take a guess on what type of filter medial is most prevalent in their oil filtration systems.
  10. That is the cylinder base gasket... It looks to be a three layer steel style base gasket (good vice the cheap paper ones that will ALWAYS eventually leak) the black sealant on the head to cylinder area indicate this motor has been apart.. If the steel base gasket is leaking it could be anything from improperly TQ'ed head or cylinder bolts to damaged, contaminated base gasket, debris left on the case or cylinder. The leak is annoying but not worth fixing on its own. There is little oil pressure at that gasket (or anywhere in the DRZ motor, its a low pressure system) If the leak gets to the point drops are forming ..then sure, replace the gasket...otherwise, wash the bike and ride on.
  11. Hi Erik,

    I posted a few pictures in the oil leak at the base of the cylinder thread. Can you please advise what I found in the head? I'm thinking it's a gel of some sort put in at the factory.

     

    Thanks for your help,

     

    Johnny

  12. Do a valve check at about 20 hours take note of the Clarence In less you are significantly over revving the engine or have a bad air filter in and just dirt you likely won't need an adjustment for many thousands of miles Clean quality air filter serviced often installed properly to include the seal the airbox fitment is the key to long valve life Adjusting them is not significantly difficult By yourself and $80 hot cams shim kit or start looking for used ones now add a significant cheaper price and have them on hand when you eventually need How difficult is it? I have talked somebody through the process over Skype from Afghanistan Look in the DRz FAQ the procedure is there
  13. I've used Scotts brand stainless steel oil filters in a lot of very expensive motors and stock ones as well single cylinder V-twin in line for oil filter filtration failure issues has never been a problem...Confirmed with oil analysis. But I also use quality OEM paper filters..for convenience. It just depends on which one makes more sense for the application and intended use. On a race motor I'm doing oil changes after every race and every day of practice I'm going to use the stainless filter. When I was on the road and riding three and four day trips every weekend I used SS filter because I could always grab a can of brake clean from somebody or some local shop and be able to clean the filter. If I'm at home and doing regular oil changes i use paper because it's easy to just toss and drop a new one in
  14. that Bearing appears to be installed correctly
  15. As you correctly observed application what is the issue not the product Suggest you use the recommended product high Street thread lock or stud and bearing mount but do so in the correct application method History has shown medium strength thread lock does not work for long in this application