Buying Chain and Sprockets. Does it really matter?

[CZwies20]

Pls don’t take the title too literally.

Every year after race season I bring the bike in the garage and do x,y and z to it. Chain and sprockets being one of those “buy new ones every year” items. I race 2 hour long harescrambles (gncc style) at a B level (possibly moving up to A next year). Does it really matter what brand I buy from?

Call me cheap but I would like to keep my purchase around $100 for new chain and sprockets (total). Racing is expensive and I’m not a factory rider.

Buying the cheap JT or Primary Drive RMATVMC kits run about $70. But I could piece it out from other websites for not much more.

I’m looking for some input on what you recommend. I usually run aluminum or hybrid rear sprockets. And mostly regular non oring chain. Thinking about trying an X ring or O ring chain tho.

It’s not too hard to come by discounts for companies like Mika Metals or SunStar. I also have a code for Mojo Moto (I have a MOJO rear sprocket on the bike now. anyone have experience with them?). Those discounts usually get me between 30-40% off, which is great. Other places like dirt-tricks and renthal are some of those top dollar companies that I’m contemplating if it’s even worth the money.

Ive also been recomended companies like supersprox, DID, Vortex, etc.

So at the end of they day does it really matter, as long as I’m not buying the cheapest of cheap, most companies are more than adequate to make it one season right? 
Also I’m sure it should be noted that one season for me is anywhere from 30-40 hours and I am on a 2022 KTM 150sx.

What do you use? Why? What would you advise against? Why?

[randysoo]

if you're replacing chain and sprockets every year as annual maintenance, I would buy cheap. rockymtn mc primary drive stuff works well for me.

[CZwies20]

45 minutes ago, randysoo said:

if you're replacing chain and sprockets every year as annual maintenance, I would buy cheap. rockymtn mc primary drive stuff works well for me.

Would there be benifit to buying something such as the MOJO Motorsports kit or Mika Metals and going a bit longer? (Season and a half? Maybe two?)

[mlatour]

Steel sprockets (Sunstar) front and back and a narrow D.I.D. X-ring sealed chain will make for a long lasting combo.

A 'better' chain on 'cheap' sprockets usually last longer than the other way around.

Edited September 8, 2023 by mlatour

[kcposty]

1 hour ago, mlatour said:

Steel sprockets (Sunstar) front and back and a D.I.D. X-ring chain will make for a long lasting combo.

A 'better' chain on 'cheap' sprockets usually last longer than the other way around.

A broken chain can be a costly experience beyond a dnf.

Also beware of internet fakes, buy from a reputable supplier.  Preferably one that participates in our sport.

Edited September 8, 2023 by kcposty

[CZwies20]

1 hour ago, mlatour said:

Steel sprockets (Sunstar) front and back and a D.I.D. X-ring chain will make for a long lasting combo.

A 'better' chain on 'cheap' sprockets usually last longer than the other way around.

What about a hybrid sprocket? MIKA and Supersprox both make one with steel teeth but aluminum body.

will the x ring chain fit on my bike? I’ve had them rub the case before.

[777654321]

5 hours ago, Colin Zwiesler said:

Pls don’t take the title too literally.

Every year after race season I bring the bike in the garage and do x,y and z to it. Chain and sprockets being one of those “buy new ones every year” items. I race 2 hour long harescrambles (gncc style) at a B level (possibly moving up to A next year). Does it really matter what brand I buy from?

Call me cheap but I would like to keep my purchase around $100 for new chain and sprockets (total). Racing is expensive and I’m not a factory rider.

Buying the cheap JT or Primary Drive RMATVMC kits run about $70. But I could piece it out from other websites for not much more.

I’m looking for some input on what you recommend. I usually run aluminum or hybrid rear sprockets. And mostly regular non oring chain. Thinking about trying an X ring or O ring chain tho.

It’s not too hard to come by discounts for companies like Mika Metals or SunStar. I also have a code for Mojo Moto (I have a MOJO rear sprocket on the bike now. anyone have experience with them?). Those discounts usually get me between 30-40% off, which is great. Other places like dirt-tricks and renthal are some of those top dollar companies that I’m contemplating if it’s even worth the money.

Ive also been recomended companies like supersprox, DID, Vortex, etc.

So at the end of they day does it really matter, as long as I’m not buying the cheapest of cheap, most companies are more than adequate to make it one season right? 
Also I’m sure it should be noted that one season for me is anywhere from 30-40 hours and I am on a 2022 KTM 150sx.

What do you use? Why? What would you advise against? Why?

The steel sets from Rock Mountain work just fine. 

[DEMI]

If clearance is an issue, get a sealed narrow ring chain. Those sprockets are fine. If it was me, a Sunstar Steel(plain or Works Z) or Dirt Tricks is what'd be on my bike. 

[DEMI]

1 minute ago, 777654321 said:

The steel sets from Rock Mountain work just fine. 

Yep, those or JT steel are great. No need to spend a bundle for steel. 

[nuity5]

50 minutes ago, kcposty said:

Also beware of internet fakes, buy from a reputable supplier. 

    I'll second this. I've had a counterfeit chain off of Ebay. It was a decent deal but not stupid cheap so I thought it was just old stock stuff. Wrong...... I'm with mlatour - I run steel sprockets with a decent o-ring chain. Clay

[kcposty]

31 minutes ago, Colin Zwiesler said:

What about a hybrid sprocket? MIKA and Supersprox both make one with steel teeth but aluminum body.

will the x ring chain fit on my bike? I’ve had them rub the case before.

G2 and Moose also make hybrid. 

[SS109]

I do a lot of riding so I need something that will last and not ever leave me stranded in the middle of nowhere. IME, running a high quality chain is worth it. I run RK x-ring chains, preferably, but any other name brand x-ring would be good with me. I also run high quality C/S sprockets as they take most of the wear and wear way quicker than rears. I like Renthal, SuperSprox, or Dirt Tricks C/S sprockets. On the rear, pretty much run anything as long as it isn't just an aluminum one. From cheap steel Primary Drive up to any of the hybrids will be fine for long service and less chance of damage in case you catch a rock. Normally prefer JT or Supersprox steel rears.

Of course, none of this really matters if you're changing them out once a year. Buy the cheapest steel sprockets you can get but still buy a good x/o-ring chain.

[DEATH_INC.]

I run a cheapish alloy rear, half decent front and a middle of the road chain on both My bikes (CR500 and RM125), and did the same when I had the 450. No issues with anything wearing overly fast (The 500 chain/sprockets have at least 50 hours on them). 

I'm fairly sure MTX fronts, CZ O-ring chains and MX-Pro rear sprockets.

Edited September 8, 2023 by DEATH_INC.

[zomby woof]

12 hours ago, mlatour said:

Steel sprockets (Sunstar) front and back and a narrow D.I.D. X-ring sealed chain will make for a long lasting combo.

A 'better' chain on 'cheap' sprockets usually last longer than the other way around.

Exactly what I do. A chain and sprocket set lasts me years

[pat22043]

16 hours ago, Colin Zwiesler said:

Call me cheap but I would like to keep my purchase around $100 for new chain and sprockets (total). Racing is expensive and I’m not a factory rider.

Racing is expensive, and it eats parts. Chain and sprockets are like tires and brake pads, consumables. Expect to replace them a lot.

It would be interesting to try to compare "lifetime cost" of the cheapest brands vs more expensive ones. Do the better ones last proportionately longer? I don't know.

As others have said, a broken chain can get very expensive fast, beyond the DNF after a 8 hour drive to the track. When the chain wipes out the crankcase when its wedges into the tiny space between the front sprocket and the clutch mechanism, any dreams of being cheap vanish.

[76xtdrvr]

I always run Primary Drive chain and sprockets in my 150xc. Good quality for good price IMO. I'd avoid anything cheaper from places like EBay . Either Chinese junk or possibly Chinese knock-off of a name brand.

[seer]

 30-40 hours on a small bore isn't much for drive train life. Replace when you need it not once a year. Buy it and have it on hand if your worried. Some are still out of stock at times. 

 I have kept track of hours on different grades of chains and sprockets. There is a difference especially with sealed vs non. I haven't run a RM chain in a few years but it was always alot less than a Japanese brand. 

 Steel is by far the the best sprocket value.  Hybrids are expensive and I've heard of failures here. My stock KTM 150xcw parts were at one time cheaper than aftermarket. Idk now? I went through 2 countershaft sprockets with the KTM rear aluminum and chain. It was Rk or DID. 

 

 

 

[seer]

 Munn has 25% off oem with a code. 

[76xtdrvr]

When shopping for chains, you can compare the rated tensile strengths if they're posted. 

[YAMAHA NICK]

I always use a DID or RK chains. JT steels on the front and usually supersprox rears.  I agree with one of the other comments about better chain and cheaper sprockets.