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  1. I use a Fox Airframe. I've 'tested' it pretty well over the last 6 months, My first decent crash was over a 15' bank and it performed well with no injuries.. There have been numerous others since, and so far it's been up to the task. I went the airframe for ventilation over the other type, which I found too hot. I'm 49 btw.
  2. That stud shouldn't have come out of the head, looks like it was dodgy before your mate got at it. As said by a few others, a NEW stud wound all the way home BEFORE the nut is installed should fix it. I'd use a permanent thread locker too. On the stud, not the nut lol.
  3. I used to run 200psi in my old '83 KX125, I never really understood suspension back then, but it made the compression stroke feel more 'controlled' without feeling too harsh. Hard to describe you could feel it moving through the stroke a bit slower when hitting big stuff, like stiffer high speed I guess. I only tried it as the guys that did the shock didn't know what the recommended pressure was, so they put 200 in and said I could let some out if I had to lol. This was 25 odd years ago.... The change in spring rate is directly related to shaft size and how far into the shock it is. Displacement if you remember science classes.
  4. Nothing wrong with Eibach springs.
  5. Ditto. Or at least that's what i put in them when I fit them....probably a bit less by the time I get around to checking them. How many of you guys can really feel the difference of a couple of psi? I've never really been able to feel small changes.
  6. I use 2 for the brake and clutch, on everything I ride. It's an old habit from old dirtbikes with heavy clutches and drum brakes.....I kept the same when I went to roadbikes. I'd say I generally don't leave 'em there all the time, just when i need 'em. I use stumpy levers on My roadbike too.
  7. A good pair of MX pants should be ok if your not being silly, think more trail/enduro that are thicker material. MX boots, road boots suck offroad. An armored textile jacket (like the enduro guys use) and motard/streetfighter gloves, as above with knuckle and palm protection. MX/dual purpose helmet, again, road one's suck offroad.
  8. the way I saw it explained back in the 80's was simple....sit on ya bike with your arms at your sides and get a mate to push between your shoulder blades, then try it with your arms up. It's much easier to resist smacking your face into the bars with your arms up, so it also makes it easier to push/pull the bars too.
  9. Pretty sure I read (years ago.) Bob Hannah used to run 29" (I think, pretty narrow anyway...years ago remember) wide bars back in the day. So, so did I. They worked well for Me back then (MX), though I will admit I haven't done it on the Husky yet....
  10. I have a 46mm od Bilstein piston here (looks the same as yours), it uses 37 X .25mm face shims. They just cover the holes. Don't go much bigger as it will block the flow going the other way. No real issues with fatigue, they are an automotive shock that lasts 100,000+ kms no worries. They also make offroader shocks too. Looking at My piston, I think you could get a fairly nice flow with a bit of careful porting. What body were you looking at putting it in? It has a steel ring so I wouldn't try to put it into an ally body unless you were planning on changing to a softer ring.
  11. I just got back (well, 6 months or so ago) to dirt bikes after 25 odd years away, and I was shocked at the lack of gear now. Boots seem ok, and helmets are much the same, but everything else seems so light and flimsy. The best cp i could get was the fox airframe (which I've tested a few times already) but it isn't anything like the big tough protectors of old. Gloves? They tried to sell me some knitted things that felt like $3 gardening gloves. Where the h*ll is the padding? I ended up with some motard gloves with knuckle and finger protection. Pants have velcro in pads for hips and nothing else. etc etc. I would have thought we'd have crazy stuff by now....but I guess no one crashes anymore.
  12. Not sure how it works over there, but if i take my stuff to a shop an they muck it up, they are responsible for the damage. Hence the justification for the price. Accidents do happen, no matter how good you are. I work in a mag/tyre place repairing damaged wheels....we see plenty from other shops that have damaged them on their machines with repair bills often well over $100. Ever tried to get a rim re-anodised (what most dirt bike rims are)? Kinda makes that $40 fitting job a bit costly eh. Not to mention the shop has to buy the machines, rent or buy the building and pay the employee wages etc, it adds up fast. Ask yourself if you'd do it for the asking price, remembering all of the above.
  13. Practice. Ride around for a session making sure you keep 'em up. Don't worry about anything else. After that it'll be more normal, tho you still have to think about it a bit. This applies to most things....most peeps just go out for practice and try to go fast. Use it to 'practice' the things you need to work on, 1 or 2 things at a time. Don't waste your practice days just reeling off endless laps....
  14. How sideways are we talking here? You crash on landing? I think most of us have landed pretty sideways without crashing at some point. Do you have any vids? When you crash are you highsiding or lowsiding? Are you still centered over the bike in the air, or do you get off balance before you land? I generally just treat it like a slide, lean to the inside, turn the bars into the 'slide', keep your upper body centered behind the bars and let your hips go with the bike, and land with the power on. Unless you're pointing backwards you should be fine.