Please help.. .CRANK BEARING INSTALL!

[J-man67]

OK, I have the cases split, internals out. I have tried heating the case half with a torch until water boils on the surface. Then tried dropping the freezing cold bearing in but, its not dropping in as shown and described by many. My question...would the oven method work better? Also, there are a few other rubber seals on the trans bearings and such. Will they be ok in the oven or should they be taken out? Not sure I have replacements for them in my shop so wanted to avoid that. I guess if I am heating the case with a torch it shouldn't matter, but dont want to take the risk without knowing. Thanks again all... Ive been trying to get out here to rebuild this bike since April. With kids and work... No time. Finally had 2 days and now im stuck, but im doing it I now know how a motorcycle trans works... I was playing with it prior to removal

Edited December 8, 2012 by J-man67

[Team Craig]

I just put mine back together yesterday. I happen to have a press so I pressed mine in. As much pressure as it took to get the new brgs back in I cannot see a safer way to get them done. Even with my crank coming out of the freezer I still had to press the crank into the rt side bearing. Safest suggestion is find a buddy or a shop/machine shop to get her back together.

[J-man67]

Just left the machine shop! Back to my shop now! I had the oven pre heating but said screw it. The shop owner pressed them in, in minutes, said merry Christmas and I was on my way.

[J-man67]

But now I am pretty sure i just installed a bearing seal backwards. It said "IN" on the other side.. I cant win with this thing. I really hope it meant this side in and not made in Indiana haha.

Edited December 8, 2012 by J-man67

[i_wheelie_longer]

I heat the bearings with a torch until water boils on the case too. But I put the bearings on dry ice which is much colder than regular ice... if you put them on dry ice then heat the cases the bearings should drop in pretty easily. Sometimes it requires a really light tap with a rubber mallet to get it in. Make sure you're trying to put the bearing in perfectly square with the cases. If its slightly cocked to the side it will not drop in and the bearing will heat up quickly and won't fall into place.

[J-man67]

I heat the bearings with a torch until water boils on the case too. But I put the bearings on dry ice which is much colder than regular ice... if you put them on dry ice then heat the cases the bearings should drop in pretty easily. Sometimes it requires a really light tap with a rubber mallet to get it in. Make sure you're trying to put the bearing in perfectly square with the cases. If its slightly cocked to the side it will not drop in and the bearing will heat up quickly and won't fall into place.

Thanks man. I actually just brought them down the road to a machine shop. Now I think I installed the bearing seal upside down...

[J-man67]

... Or does this just over top of that? Wish this manual was helpful here

[J-man67]

Crap... The seal in there now is touching the crank bearing and it wont even spin. Well... I really did it this time. AHHHHH!

Guess im going to have to chisel this one out and order a new seal kit. Not happy as I won't have the time to work on this again for a while. Oh well, thats part of ot I suppose...

Edited December 8, 2012 by J-man67

[harryhandshake]

if you dont know what your doing you shouldnt be doing it. torch or press is the wrong tools.

[J-man67]

if you dont know what your doing you shouldnt be doing it. torch or press is the wrong tools.

Thanks... If those are the wrong tools, then you could of at least told me the right way....

Also, No, I do not know what I am doing but im using trial and error along with research to learn and teach myself. Appreciate the inspiration and motivation though >_>

[harryhandshake]

start by getting a service manual. should have all your torq specs there and maybe some info how to assemble everything. cases should be heated in a oven to evenly heat everything. start at 200* for around 30min and see if the bearing fall out. if not then go to 250* for a while, this will usually be enough heat. use a small piece of wood and light taps with a hammer, if for some reason they arent even budging then go to 300*. all rebuilds ive done the crank bearings come out real easy around 250*. you want to have the new bearings in the freezer from atleast the night before so you can drop them in right after you take the old ones out. they will fall right in on their own. be sure theres no debris in the bearing bore before you drop in the new ones. if your replacing tranny bearings you want to do all those at this same time. shouldnt ever need to press anything in or out. that can screw up the bearing bores.

[f150jokerstyle]

There are some videos from rocky mountain that pretty much walk you threw the whole proccess. Look for them if you cna't find them pm me and I will for you. Good luck! P.S. I to drove the seal to far in and blocked the oiling hole for the crank bearing to and I realized once I had the thing all together lol so your doing fine relax and just do more research if unsure about things.

[J-man67]

There are some videos from rocky mountain that pretty much walk you threw the whole proccess. Look for them if you cna't find them pm me and I will for you. Good luck! P.S. I to drove the seal to far in and blocked the oiling hole for the crank bearing to and I realized once I had the thing all together lol so your doing fine relax and just do more research if unsure about things.

Thanks man. Haha, I used the RM vids, just couldn't make out what the seal looked like. Still un sure where the one I installed incorrectly goes though.

[f150jokerstyle]

I'm not sure if this will help you but I installed all my seals after I had the bottom half's bolted back tegeather. It may help not sure. I just installed them as I assembled it. It made it a little more self explanatory.

[pk6n]

_{That seal is installed backwards and its to far down. you need a new seal( buy it separate on motosport or similar site). Also the seal should be flush and not down in the sleeve thats why the bearing is not moving. I'm pretty sure there is an oil port that is blocked up with it pushed all the way in.}

[J-man67]

start by getting a service manual. should have all your torq specs there and maybe some info how to assemble everything. cases should be heated in a oven to evenly heat everything. start at 200* for around 30min and see if the bearing fall out. if not then go to 250* for a while, this will usually be enough heat. use a small piece of wood and light taps with a hammer, if for some reason they arent even budging then go to 300*. all rebuilds ive done the crank bearings come out real easy around 250*. you want to have the new bearings in the freezer from atleast the night before so you can drop them in right after you take the old ones out. they will fall right in on their own. be sure theres no debris in the bearing bore before you drop in the new ones. if your replacing tranny bearings you want to do all those at this same time. shouldnt ever need to press anything in or out. that can screw up the bearing bores.

Thanks man. I have a manual but it sucks (Haynes.) I have been using it for torque values only. I am ordering new bearings and seals. The seal I installed incorrectly would not come out so I brought the half back to the machine shop. I walked back to check on him as he was taking a while. Well I spotted him pressing the bearing back out using a socket resting on the inner race. Needless to say my bearing is shot. It no longer rotates as smooth and catches every 4th revolution. Pressing on inner race must of forced a ball into the track denting it... Looks like your method is on the menu for round 3! Live and learn... Anyway, all other bearings are good. Ok to leave them and their respective seals in during the 250* bake session?

I'm not sure if this will help you but I installed all my seals after I had the bottom half's bolted back tegeather. It may help not sure. I just installed them as I assembled it. It made it a little more self explanatory.

That would of def helped me haha. Seems easier that way now that I think about it. Thanks again for the advice!

_{That seal is installed backwards and its to far down. you need a new seal( buy it separate on motosport or similar site). Also the seal should be flush and not down in the sleeve thats why the bearing is not moving. I'm pretty sure there is an oil port that is blocked up with it pushed all the way in.}

Yeah I always order from MotoSport.com, but TT store has them a little cheaper. Score! There is an oil port halfway in. Rushing gets you no where fast I suppose. Oh well, that was the only task that has me stuck but I am confident in the above oven method. I just thought pressing was the best way but after reading harryhandshake's explanation, that method seems best. Hopefully have this pig back together soon! My 4 y.o is chomping at the bit to "ride with daddy!"

Thanks again to all of your help and guidance! Much appreciated!

Edited December 9, 2012 by J-man67

[J-man67]

Also, if the bearing seal I ruined just needed to be flipped around, where does this other one go? I know which one goes on the other half, but I had two slightly different seals that are the same diameter and thickness. You can see both in this pic. These all came with the crank.

[harryhandshake]

oven shouldnt harm any bearings but i see one has some plastic or rubber so im not sure about that one. seals ive always put them in as the last step. if i had to guess i would say the oven wont harm the seals as long as you dont put them real close to the heating element. maybe someone else has put seals in the oven and can answer for sure ?

[J-man67]

oven shouldnt harm any bearings but i see one has some plastic or rubber so im not sure about that one. seals ive always put them in as the last step. if i had to guess i would say the oven wont harm the seals as long as you dont put them real close to the heating element. maybe someone else has put seals in the oven and can answer for sure ?

Ok cool. Thanks again for the help. When my new bearings and seals arrive, I will go with the oven method. Edited December 10, 2012 by J-man67

[J-man67]

OK, still can't figure this out and I have exhausted my internet search skills!! I ordered the Wiseco crank kit. It came with everything to do the job, BUT as seen above I installed the crank bearing seal backwards. My questions is which seal is the correct one? There are 2 seals, both same diameter and thickness, but slightly different. I cannot for the life of me see or figure out where the other one would go. Why are there 2? Do I use both? I am stuck here....

Guess it REALLY doesnt matter, as I think I have to order new crank bearings due to the Machinest pressing them by the inner races, but I am still very curious.