If it's not one thing it's another. Stripped head cover bolt.

[Beyond The Pale]

Back in the beginning of October I had a bit of trouble with the cam chain tensioner. I've been either sick or working since then, but I finally got to it. My temp fix worked fine and the cam chain was still set correctly. I did the zip tie method and had the new tensioner installed in no time.

When I went to do the final round of tightening on the valve cover bolts one kept turning. Uh-oh. It's the one on the left side closest to the sparkplug. Not a lot of room to drill it out and run the helicoil type thread repair due to the frame being in the way. I just don't think there is enough room to do the job in place.

I think I have two options. Pull the head or pull the engine out of the frame. I'm leaning in the direction of pulling the engine.

Any other ideas?

I was planning on riding tomorrow.

[Memnok]

"No plan of battle ever survives contact with the enemy." Heinz Guderian

[creeky]

This is by no means a permanent fix. The threaded hole is deeper than the original screw is long. Get a slightly longer screw and intall it using the unused threads in the hole. Be careful that the screw does not bottom in the hole and snap off. These threads, as you know, are easily stripped. Don't torque them as stated in the service manual, just snug them up evenly.

[Horri]

Same one went on my 86,,I pulled the motor yet again and did the helicoil type thingame..If I was a wanting a partial fix I'd just go with a fractionally larger in diameter bolt and just screw it home on the dodgy alloy they call metal,,then sort the heli out when you can be bothered..Not a lot of thread on that bolt,, mine went straight through to the head area..no room to get a nut on it so it's a rock and a hard place job.

[pwrpapa]

Can you loosen the motor and tilt it to one side to get the clearance you need?

[akarob]

I'm sure you'll do exactly what you need to do. If that means pulling the engine, so be it. You might want to start going a little light on the torque when using that torque wrench now. You did use a torque wrench, right?

[Beyond The Pale]

Ended up pulling the engine and installing the coil on the bench. Now I hope no to have to go into the engine for several thousand miles.

It's time to ride.

I would like to get a good torque wrench for low torque fasteners like these. In twenty years of motorcycling I've only had to install two thread repairs in my bikes. That's pretty good.

[ThumpNRed]

Ended up pulling the engine and installing the coil on the bench. Now I hope no to have to go into the engine for several thousand miles.

It's time to ride.

I would like to get a good torque wrench for low torque fasteners like these. In twenty years of motorcycling I've only had to install two thread repairs in my bikes. That's pretty good.

I was amazed when I "torqued" my head bolts... As soon as the bolt head made contact with the headcover... "click"... Is that it?! I wanted BADLY to give 'em just a bit more as they were barely snug! I know I would pull the threads out if I didn't use a torque wrench.

[no66]

When I was roadracing, my trusty mechanic, said that for cover bolts, torque less than Honda says in the manual. If it say 10Nm, do 7Nm. Ok to do 10 on new parts, but after that, the theads in the soft alloy will pull.

[pwrpapa]

What brand of torque wrenches are you fell's using?

[no66]

Me, I use a fairly cheap 0-25Nm for the small stuff. Never pulled a thread. My mechanic friend uses a .......... (Can't remember, but a good brand, I'll find out) He had 2 of them. Every 6 months, he would send one in for calibration and use the other for the next half year.

Remember to back off to zero after use I was also told

[frignhign]

What brand of torque wrenches are you fell's using?

I am a helicopter machanic for the military. We use snap on TQ wrench's. All the helicopters I have worked on are still flying so thats a good thing right?

[HeadTrauma]

I use a five-digit arbitrary torque-sensing universal driver attachment with resistance feedback on a 4" long 3/8"(or 8mm) box-end wrench for reduced torque multiplication.

I plan on getting an inch-pound torque wrench, though.

[ThumpNRed]

I use a five-digit arbitrary torque-sensing universal driver attachment with resistance feedback on a 4" long 3/8"(or 8mm) box-end wrench for reduced torque multiplication.

I plan on getting an inch-pound torque wrench, though.

:smirk:Ah... the five digit arbitrary torque-sensing universal thread puller?

I used to use one of them... I was gonna have to buy stock in heli-coil if I didnt change my ways!

[creeky]

Thread condition is a big cause of stripping and snapped 6mm screws. Damaged threads and rust & corrosion cause excessive friction and too much force has to be applied to seat the screw. Make sure that the threads on the screw and the hole are free from crud and in good condition, use a bottom tap and a die if necessary to clean them up. When reinstalling, apply a dab of anti-seize to the threads and just snug the screws up evenly, a torque wrench is not necessary and many times is the reason for stripping and snapped screws.

[Denn10]

Carl thanks for callin me to ride too!!! hope you strip a few more next time you dont let me know bout a ride!!