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KTM Valve adjustment


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I am sure this has been discussed here, but I have to ask. We tried adjusting the valves on our 05 KTM 450 and 525 using the video on youtube titled "KTM RFS Valve Adjustment", but were unsuccessful. The valves ended up being very noisy. We tried to match up what he said about finding top dead center, and the screw method as in the manual, any help. When we continued rolling past the overlap he got his intake valves to move by them selves, at this point our exhaust valves were moving by them selves?? We could never get are valves to do what he was doing and describing. Any help, thanks

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  • 7 months later...
I watched this also and have confusion with TDC, are you saying it doesnt have to be TDC but by moving the rear wheel in gear, when you see the valves go slack they are ok to be checked ???

yup...transmission in top gear(5th or 6th)...

...i use a BF-screwdriver or prybar between the spokes and the swingarm to keep the valvetrain in place against the force of the valve springs...it will want to rotate past that point...and it's ok to rotate it backwards to position the valvetrain correctly.

Adjust closed intakes valves when exhaust valves are opening(~1/2 way).

Adjust closed exhaust valves when the intakes valves are closing(~1/2 way).

Use the 1/6 method for setting clearance especally on older bikes due to the adjusters wear/cupping. ?

i don't even bother adjusting the exhaust valves as long as i can feel the lash when i wiggle the exhaust rockers...exhaust are a biotch w/o totally removing my radiators and cooling fan. :ride:

:ride:

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the 1/6th is the points on a nut, there are six sides and points on a nut. Loosen the nut on the adjuster and tighten the screwdriver slot adjuster by finger to take the slack out of it. Align the nut point with the slot. Then turn the adjuster loose 1/6th turn using the points of the nut to guide you to that 1/6th turn. You must hold the nut still in its place while doing this, it cant move with the adjuster or it wont be right. Then hold the screw adjuster with a screw driver and tighten the nut down and you are done. Take care to not turn the screw adjuster while tightening. Then for peace of mind check the clearances. It will be right if you held the screw adjuster well enuf while tightening the nut.

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I had to watch the vid on my laptop in the garage, pause it at each step, re watch then keep going step by step. It's hard to do by your self for the 1st time but watch the vid carefully and also read the article thats with the vid here on TT stickies. Doing both, watching and reading the article, was kinda the break through for me on understanding it. Then it was no problem.

I also did the 1/6th turn method on the intakes and then double checked it with feeler gauges and it was spot on. My exhaust valves were spot on still so I left them alone and the intakes were just a little tight, maybe .001". Just enough where I could almost get a .005 gauge in there but not quite.

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yeah, intakes get tight twice as often as the exhaust. Some say it is due to the minute amount of dirt that gets thru the carb. I put carb filters on the little over flow hoses. Its supposed to help. I need to do my valves now and will see if it slowed down the intakes getting tight soon.

After doing the adjustment once, I'd say it's almost as easy to do on the KTM as it is on my XR4. If it weren't for those radiators making it tough to get to the exhaust valves, it would be just as easy. Of course my XR only gets checked once a year vs. 15hrs. on the KTM.

What kind of filters do you put on the hoses? I've never seen that before.

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After doing the adjustment once, I'd say it's almost as easy to do on the KTM as it is on my XR4. If it weren't for those radiators making it tough to get to the exhaust valves, it would be just as easy. Of course my XR only gets checked once a year vs. 15hrs. on the KTM.

What kind of filters do you put on the hoses? I've never seen that before.

I unbolt the radiators but leave the hoses attached. Then I grab a few zipties and pull the rads out of the way with the zipties so I have working room.

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  • 4 weeks later...
I have a Rekluse clutch on my bike so I cant use the rear wheel to rotate the motor. What the other method? Any help appreciated. I have tried to use the kick starter but I cant get it to TDC.

Pop the cover off the left side and turn the crank manually. Here's a picture of a clever solution for a Husaberg, same idea:

http://husaberg.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=13738

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  • 3 weeks later...
I have a Rekluse clutch on my bike so I cant use the rear wheel to rotate the motor. What the other method? Any help appreciated. I have tried to use the kick starter but I cant get it to TDC.

First of all you don't need TDC to adjust valves. With auto clutch bikes, I 'bump' the starter several times until one pair of valves is closed while the other pair is closing and then adjust the check/adjust the closed pair and vice versa.

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Great info

Someone on this Forum also told me the intake valves are made of different (magnetic V non Magnetic) Stainless Steel - That's why my Ex Valves are in spec, and the In - stuffed.

The stock RFS intake valves are made of a too soft magnetic steel while the stock exhaust valves are made of a much more durable nonmagnetic stainless steel.

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