Oil thread 🙄 But only the top two between Motul 300v and Maxima racing oil

[SteveThe Snakes]

So not your Rotella oil thread. So don’t bother with cheap I use Rotella. 
 

Trying to preserve my built ‘08 480cc WR450 supermoto street bike. It’s used for about 5 mos. Until dirt bike season gets cool again. It’s ridden about 135 miles round trip to the canyons and back. It only holds 1 quart of oil so cost is not a factor. 
 

As I have heard they both are the top engine oils that racers and builders use. 

Anybody have ideas on which would be better and why or is there another top known brand I am missing. 

[chevy_man]

Whichever is easier to get.

But it really should be Yamalube because they say it's best for their bikes... 🤣

[William1]

Change it often and a good oil is a good oil. I really doubt anyone is going to give categorical proof that X is better then Y, just who buys into marketing motivations. I buy Silkolene 12W50 for my SM. Probably be fine running Pennzoil.

[GuyGraham]

If its any help, my 2016 WR250F has been run on Motul 300V 15w-50 since new

It now has 500 hours

Piston changed at 207hrs as it was burning oil

Orginal crank, and original cylinder still

Oil (0.8Litres) changed at 15hrs, filter every other oil change

[Rubberband]

Between 300v and Extra, I don't think you could go wrong with either. They're both ester base stocks and have similar wear shearing results from the couple tests I've seen. Big difference would probably be the additive packages and to compare those you could look for a virgin oil analysis of each ....but both companies are known for engineering good additive packages.. 

[Slackkinhard]

its like talking about the weather

[69fastback]

4 hours ago, William1 said:

Change it often and a good oil is a good oil. I really doubt anyone is going to give categorical proof that X is better then Y, just who buys into marketing motivations. I buy Silkolene 12W50 for my SM. Probably be fine running Pennzoil.

1000%!

 

There is no magic oil that is going to give you anymore life than other oils. They just don’t exist. The best thing you can do is change it. No matter what oil you use, just change it. That’s it. 

[Rubberband]

If you're doing short or normal oil change intervals, sure....anything that meets your bike's spec requirements from a reputable brand is going to probably be more than adequate. When you're pushing intervals or there is some other factor that can degrade an oils viscosity or lubrication properties then what you run can make a difference.

[69fastback]

48 minutes ago, Rubberband said:

If you're doing short or normal oil change intervals, sure....anything that meets your bike's spec requirements from a reputable brand is going to probably be more than adequate. When you're pushing intervals or there is some other factor that can degrade an oils viscosity or lubrication properties then what you run can make a difference.

There is zero actual scientific data to support that, but the looming question is, why in the hell would anyone not be doing regular oil changes?  These companies are making a killing on people thinking there is some magic bottled up in their oil, by marketing to the ideas that you just stated. None of these oils have that magic in them. If it meets the manufacturers spec requirements, and you’re changing the oil as you should, these marketing claims are just snake oil. 
 

 

Thread after thread people say “brand x” is the best because I’ve ran it with zero failures. That is not a tangible measurement. In all my years of building engines for various race cars, and owning, maintaing, and racing cars, and dirtbikes, not once has there been a failure that was related to the brand of oil that was ran. On the other side of that, not once has there been a failure that a different brand of oil would have been able to change, reduce the chance of, or eliminate. all these claims are opinion and subjective. 
 

 

change your oil. 
 

 

 

 

Edited August 6 by 69fastback

[Rubberband]

39 minutes ago, 69fastback said:

There is zero actual scientific data to support that, but the looming question is, why in the hell would anyone not be doing regular oil changes?  These companies are making a killing on people thinking there is some magic bottled up in their oil, by marketing to the ideas that you just stated. None of these oils have that magic in them. If it meets the manufacturers spec requirements, and you’re changing the oil as you should, these marketing claims are just snake oil. 
 

 

Thread after thread people say “brand x” is the best because I’ve ran it with zero failures. That is not a tangible measurement. In all my years of building engines for various race cars, and owning, maintaing, and racing cars, and dirtbikes, not once has there been a failure that was related to the brand of oil that was ran. On the other side of that, not once has there been a failure that a different brand of oil would have been able to change, reduce the chance of, or eliminate. all these claims are opinion and subjective. 
 

 

change your oil. 
 

 

 

 

In that case you should be able to supply scientific evidence that there is no difference.

Edit: There's a whole field of study around motor oil composition and ample studies you can find online of the results. Just base stock and mechanical shearing viscosity loss should yield some reading material. 

Edited August 6 by Rubberband

[69fastback]

5 minutes ago, Rubberband said:

In that case you should be able to supply scientific evidence that there is no difference.

In that case, you should be able to supply tangible evidence of failures as a result of the brand of oil that used, that didn’t meet the manufacturer spec. You’re making the claim. I’m not doing your homework for you. 

[Rubberband]

41 minutes ago, 69fastback said:

In that case, you should be able to supply tangible evidence of failures as a result of the brand of oil that used, that didn’t meet the manufacturer spec. You’re making the claim. I’m not doing your homework for you. 

I think you have my claims confused vs a generalization I made. 

[BV's]

how about Amsoil?  

[chevy_man]

38 minutes ago, BV's said:

how about Amsoil?  

Expensive for what it is. I have run it and seen zero difference vs Rotella, Mobil 1, and now Motul. 

I did discover Motul 20-w50 stays cleaner a lot longer in my husky 300, but it's a 2t so just gear box. 

Only oil I get obsessive about is on my boat. Because marine oils have a ton of extra engineering and design towards corrosion prevention. 

Bikes I tried a bunch, remembered they're all 2t, and just change it every 10 hours. 

 

4 hours ago, 69fastback said:

1000%!

 

There is no magic oil that is going to give you anymore life than other oils. They just don’t exist. The best thing you can do is change it. No matter what oil you use, just change it. That’s it. 

GM just found out 0w-40 makes a 6.2 last a lot longer than their recommended 0w-20... 

There are a lot of times you can go against manufacturers recommendations for a variety of reasons and get longer life. 

The obsessive amount of research to get what you want and doing a lot of oil analysis is required to know for sure if you've had an effect. Even down to the changing seasons where in one region you'd kill the valvetrain on a cold start trying to move straight 60 weight at -20°, it moves just fine on a "cold" 45° day.

[69fastback]

18 minutes ago, chevy_man said:

Expensive for what it is. I have run it and seen zero difference vs Rotella, Mobil 1, and now Motul. 

I did discover Motul 20-w50 stays cleaner a lot longer in my husky 300, but it's a 2t so just gear box. 

Only oil I get obsessive about is on my boat. Because marine oils have a ton of extra engineering and design towards corrosion prevention. 

Bikes I tried a bunch, remembered they're all 2t, and just change it every 10 hours. 

 

GM just found out 0w-40 makes a 6.2 last a lot longer than their recommended 0w-20... 

There are a lot of times you can go against manufacturers recommendations for a variety of reasons and get longer life. 

The obsessive amount of research to get what you want and doing a lot of oil analysis is required to know for sure if you've had an effect. Even down to the changing seasons where in one region you'd kill the valvetrain on a cold start trying to move straight 60 weight at -20°, it moves just fine on a "cold" 45° day.

Why did you quote me on this?  This all pertains to oil weight. Did I say anything about oil weight?  The OP’s question had nothing to do with weight, the post I quoted had nothing to do with weight, and as a result, my post that you quoted had nothing to do with weight. 
 

 

I’ve never seen a failure related to brand of oil that was used, that met manufacturer specs. That’s it. That what I’m saying, that’s all I ever said, and that’s all I’ll continue to say. The only reason I even added the manufacturer spec note, was because if I didn’t, sure as shit someone would mention oils with low, or no, ZDDP and flat tappet camshaft failures. 

Edited August 6 by 69fastback

[Slackkinhard]

6 hours ago, 69fastback said:

1000%!

 

There is no magic oil that is going to give you anymore life than other oils. They just don’t exist. The best thing you can do is change it. No matter what oil you use, just change it. That’s it. 

Keep it full is more important.

Never really seen an engine go to hell because the oil was bad, most motors and gear boxes go to hell due to lack of oil.

[Slackkinhard]

1 hour ago, chevy_man said:

Expensive for what it is. I have run it and seen zero difference vs Rotella, Mobil 1, and now Motul. 

I did discover Motul 20-w50 stays cleaner a lot longer in my husky 300, but it's a 2t so just gear box. 

Only oil I get obsessive about is on my boat. Because marine oils have a ton of extra engineering and design towards corrosion prevention. 

Bikes I tried a bunch, remembered they're all 2t, and just change it every 10 hours. 

 

GM just found out 0w-40 makes a 6.2 last a lot longer than their recommended 0w-20... 

There are a lot of times you can go against manufacturers recommendations for a variety of reasons and get longer life. 

The obsessive amount of research to get what you want and doing a lot of oil analysis is required to know for sure if you've had an effect. Even down to the changing seasons where in one region you'd kill the valvetrain on a cold start trying to move straight 60 weight at -20°, it moves just fine on a "cold" 45° day.

the reason it stays cleaner is most likely due to fewer additives. Many additives are conditioners which 'encapsulate' dirt and hold it in suspension. There are umpteen variables to play with and depending on how all your variables are set can result in an optimum condition for you. 

[69fastback]

The only way to determine if an oil is “cleaner,” is to send it for an oil analysis. I don’t know anyone who does that in their dirtbike, but maybe someone does. 

[William1]

.... and back on topic....

[BillDirt2]

I'd go with Motul. 

But really Motorex 100%