Parts Availability; early years XR600R's

[Oregon Comrade]

Looking to buy a 1987 XR600 but don't want to get in over my head....long time rider, I know my way around a bike but don't want something I can't find parts for reasonably easy.  It's going to be a rider.  

Based on my initial first look at parts it seems several aftermarket parts are available, like bearings from "All Balls" but if I have to go cheap route like that it would be a big buzzkill....I'd really prefer OEM if possible.  I'm just not familiar enough to know if things like linkage bearings, wheel bearings, etc. are still available in Japanese quality.

Any other parts that are impossible to find or make it difficult to own one of the early year XR's?

Thanks!

[Fingers]

All the early XRs and XLs can be modified in every way to accept the later model (and still produced) XR parts (such as the XR 650). Most of the modifications are simple and inexpensive, probably the most complicated mod (but still easy on the skills scale) is to fit the newer version (1989+) cam, camchain and chain tensioner sliders to the older version head/valve cover. This entails some machine work of the older type head cover to fit the newer type valve rockers in order to align correctly to the newer style cam, and also installing the newer style thinner cam chain, thinner sliders and thinner sprockets to the cam and lower countershaft. Or you can skip the machine work and buy a later model valve head cover and it bolts right on using the newer parts. Optional to keep or delete the auto decompressor if you choose this path. Having gone both ways I would delete it because you probably have a manual style  one anyway on an older head.

For the transmission the newer gears slide right on, but you have to match some of the adjacent gears on the shaft with a newer version (specifically 2nd gear adjacent to fifth) as well because the dog count changed from the earlier versions…but they slide right on. Be aware the countershaft is the Achilles heel here, it is not made anymore and if you have a kick start bike with a worn countershaft you will have to find a used or NOS one or again can use the newer style (XR 650L) version by having the right end (tip) machined down and oil hole drilled to fit your kickstart idle gear. Do-able but a bit of ass pain.

Some of the main bearings (like the crank/balancer) bearings changed size slightly from year to year and model to model so you must research what was old verse newer and buy the correct size if replacing.

oil pumps changed but the newer version (670) bolts in with the appropriate newer version spacers and bolts and newer style oil tube.

If you want to upgrade to the newer cylinder (post 1989) you need to change to the new head bolts and washers (9mm vs 8mm) but no head mods required and cylinder to case bolts are unchanged for all. All the cylinders (XR/XL 600/650 new or old) have same length but different piston diameter so they bolt right on but you need to source the piston for the rod length and bore diameter you are using (75, 80 or 82mm stroke and 97-104mm bore ).

Above is kind of a one pager guide, there are a few minor complications, but in the end I don’t think you should fear rebuilding a older motor with the newer version parts if and when needed or wanted.

And that’s just the motor…all the suspension and wheel/brake parts can bolt right on….so you can end up with something like this (originally an ‘87): Everything above has been done to it.

 

Edited January 2, 2024 by Fingers

[Oregon Comrade]

9 minutes ago, Fingers said:

All the early XRs and XLs can be modified in every way to accept the later model (and still produced) XR parts (such as the XR 650). Most of the modifications are simple and inexpensive, probably the most complicated mod (but still easy on the skills scale) is to fit the newer version (1989+) cam, camchain and chain tensioner sliders to the older version head/valve cover. This entails some machine work of the older type head cover to fit the newer type valve rockers in order to align correctly to the newer style cam, and also installing the newer style thinner cam chain, thinner sliders and thinner sprockets to the cam and lower countershaft. Or you can skip the machine work and buy a later model valve head cover and it bolts right on using the newer parts. Optional to keep or delete the auto decompressor if you choose this path. Having gone both ways I would delete it because you probably have a manual style  one anyway on an older head.

For the transmission the newer gears slide right on, but you have to match some of the adjacent gears on the shaft with a newer version (specifically 2nd gear adjacent to fifth) as well because the dog count changed from the earlier versions…but they slide right on. Be aware the countershaft is the Achilles heel here, it is not made anymore and if you have a kick start bike with a worn countershaft you will have to find a used or NOS one or again can use the newer style (XR 650L) version by having the right end (tip) machined down and oil hole drilled to fit your kickstart idle gear. Do-able but a bit of ass pain.

Some of the main bearings (like the crank/balancer) bearings changed size slightly from year to year and model to model so you must research what was old verse newer and buy the correct size if replacing.

oil pumps changed but the newer version (670) bolts in with the appropriate newer version spacers and bolts and newer style oil tube.

If you want to upgrade to the newer cylinder (post 1989) you need to change to the new head bolts and washers (9mm vs 8mm) but no head mods required and cylinder to case bolts are unchanged for all. All the cylinders (XR/XL 600/650 new or old) have same length but different piston diameter so they bolt right on but you need to source the piston for the rod length and bore diameter you are using (75, 80 or 82mm stroke and 97-104mm bore ).

Above is kind of a one pager guide, there are a few minor complications, but in the end I don’t think you should fear rebuilding a older motor with the newer version parts if and when needed or wanted.

awesome input - is the chassis similar?  

is it possible to buy a modern 18" rim and lace it to the OEM drum hub?

[Fingers]

8 minutes ago, Oregon Comrade said:

awesome input - is the chassis similar?  

is it possible to buy a modern 18" rim and lace it to the OEM drum hub?

Chassis similar but uses square tubes…all specs were same…swingarm/forks from XRL bolted right in.

It is possible but it’s easier and probably cheaper to go with modern disk using used parts with new bearings. Can get an entire rear suspension and brake on eBay for the price of a custom built wheel. You can also keep your stock drum and 17” wheel and upgrade the shock. The drum brake is not horrible…the 17” wheel is a bit hard to get good knobbies for off road though.

here’s another one I did…

 

 

Edited January 2, 2024 by Fingers

[Oregon Comrade]

3 minutes ago, Fingers said:

Chassis similar but uses square tubes…all specs were same…swingarm/forks from XRL bolted right in.

It is possible but it’s easier and probably cheaper to go with modern disk using used parts with new bearings. Can get an entire rear suspension and brake on eBay for the price of a custom built wheel. You can also keep your stock drum and 17” wheel and upgrade the shock. The drum brake is not horrible…the 17” wheel is a bit hard to get good knobbies for off road though.

here’s another one I did…

 

 

rad bike!  I can wait for a early 90's XR....just found a sweet older one, clean, low mile 1987 but may be more trouble than it's worth.

[Fingers]

Personally I prefer the twin carb bikes…with some suspension and brake upgrades….I just got my next project…this 91 XR600R (to the right of my XL)…