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Rekluse Clutch (Auto)


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Does anybody out there have experience with using the Rekluse clutch plate on their bike? If so, what do you think of it? Any situations where it is a disadvantage over a manual set up?

I'd be using it primarily for Hare Scrambles (hmmm...good/bad for dead engine starts???) and enduros.

Also wonder if there are any comments out there regarding Rekluse vs. RevLoc clutch conversions. Are they essentially the same mechanism? Looks like the Rekluse is cheaper because you don't need to re-machine your basket.

Thanks in advance.

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I just picked one up and put it on my CRF.I've ridden it around 50 miles.But here is my short opinion so far. ?

The clutch is very nice for single track.I took my crf through some chewed up and knarly single track and it performed flawless.I didn't have to touch the clutch lever the whole time and the bike never stalled.I don't have a flywheel weight on the crf so i was impressed.I will give a more detailed write up once i get a few hundred miles on it. So far i would recommend it without hesitation. I will be riding some enduros with it once the season starts back up in October.

I got the clutch perch adjuster on mine. So there is no disadvantage as far as performance. i can still fan the clutch to get the r's back up. I guess the only disadvantage would be you can't bumpstart the bike downhill anymore.

:devil:

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I have been using them for over a year on various bikes and love them. For tight woods it is cheating. Best mod you can do after getting your suspension right. Once you ride with one you will never want to ride without one.

Great product made by really nice people that care about the customer. ?

Kelly

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If you have a hydraulic clutch with the Rekluse your clutch still works as it did before with the lever. Best of both worlds. :devil:

Cool! I was about to put one on my bike when I went Canyon Diving and smashed me leg, and it kinda got put on a back burner as I had a bone sticking outa me.

One thing you guys are not telling me about (which is VITAL to survival where I ride :awww:) is steep steep declines and engine-braking. Does it still work like this? How do you downshift without the clutch under a heavy, steep, downhill load?

I love the idea of a clutchless bike. I'm hopping on and off mine more than I am doing any speedy stuff. OH! How does it behave on the street?? ?

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[quote

Cool! I was about to put one on my bike when I went Canyon Diving and smashed me leg, and it kinda got put on a back burner as I had a bone sticking outa me.

One thing you guys are not telling me about (which is VITAL to survival where I ride :devil:) is steep steep declines and engine-braking. Does it still work like this? How do you downshift without the clutch under a heavy, steep, downhill load?

I love the idea of a clutchless bike. I'm hopping on and off mine more than I am doing any speedy stuff. OH! How does it behave on the street?? ?

With the rekluse [ z-start] you can easily adjust at what engine rpm your clutch engages or disengages. My clutch is set to engage right above idle so, as long as I'm not at idle rpm, I have engine bracking. Even if your rpm dropped to idle, a quick little blip of the throttle will re-engage your drivetrain.

Downshifts are performed with a quick little blip of the throttle as well, to unload the transmission prior to shifting.

The z start, in my opinion, is the best value in an autoclutch, a well thought out product, and legendary customer service. By far, the best $400 I ever spent on my bike.

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(hmmm...good/bad for dead engine starts???)

It's perfect for dead engine 2nd/3rd gear starts, just be ready to hold on. The engine will kick over with ease in gear, as soon as the bike fires and you apply throttle you are going. So about mid to 3/4 stroke of the kick the bike will fire and if you are giving gas you will be moving off the line, again you will need to be prepared... I got an awesome start on my last race with the auto-clutch ?

as stated above, it works perfect in the woods and does feel kind of like cheating.

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yes, it does roll in gear with the engine off, but when it's in gear, there is some drag compared to rolling it in neutral.

Usually, the only time I put my bike in neutral is when the ride is over, and I'm parking the bike in my garage. Since I can start the bike in gear, I don't look for neutral very often. For many of us z-start owners, finding neutral WITH the engine running isn't very easy, but it's allmost unnecessary.

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How do you find neutral with the engine off with an auto-clutch? I usually roll mine back and fourth to make sure I'm in neutral, with an an auto-clutch doesn't it roll in every gear?

I can still feel a slight difference between neutral and in gear when the enginge is off, so it hasn't been a problem finding neutral. I am not sure if this is normal, I do have my install gap set on the tighter side of the specs.

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So how does this thing react to when you are warming it up when you first kick it over? and its in gear? I would think getting it started would cause some "jumping forward". I am am leaning towards getting one. But I ride mostly MX at the momment. Any other comments?

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mine is on a 200 KTM EXC 2-smoke, so of course I usually do have to give it gas when starting. I usually don't start it until I am ready to go and actually just take off the minute it starts... I see your point though, I haven't been on a trail ride with it since I have installed it... however, on the ktm with the hydraulic clutch you get to keep your clutch lever, so I can still disengage the clutch when starting. I still don't think it will be an issue though, just farting around the house I can start it, might move forward a bit, but not enough to be an issue. Maybe if it was hard starting and I needed to give extra gas, then it would need to be in neutral or clutch pulled in.

i wouldn't be worried about it though.

I think it is pretty good for MX, but I am not an MX rider and only going off how mine has felt blasting out of corners on hare scramble course.

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  • 2 years later...

I've had mine for about a year now and have to say its the best after market product I've used. It took a few rides before I really liked it, its hard to get used to not having to use the clutch lever. After a while I never used the lever so I took it off and installed a left hand rear brake which I love for side hills and tight single track, you have much more rear brake control with your hand. Once you get it dialed in where it engages where you want it awesome, no stalling and its like cheating on hillclimbs. The Z-start will freewheel down hill if you go too slow or lock up the rear brake, if you want engine braking you have to blip the throttle to engage the clutch. And no it does not disengage when changing gear, basically you are hard shifting while riding but after a while you get to know where the sweet spot is for smooth shifting, it just becomes second nature.

FWIW, I bought mine from the TT store, cheapest around and super fast shipping.

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The clutch over-ride they sell extra is worth gold in it's weight. It allows you to keep the revs high on starts with the lever pulled in and suddenly drop the clutch and have the auto do it's job perfectly for 3rd gear wide open starts. Who else here can say they pull 3rd gears starts that still wheelie. LOL. The clutch over-ride has no resistance beside the centripgual force so it's the easiest clutch ever to pull in. I won't ever sell my bike or "upgrade" because this clutch has made my bike the best I ever ridden. It really shines in longer races where you would normally get arm pump from clutching it so much. It great for all types of ridding because it allows you to focus more on the track besides the clutch. All there is to worry about it the track,throttle, and braking. Any bike I ever will own will have a auto clutch in it and if they don't make them for the bike then I won't buy the bike till they do. I even heard somewhere they are going to be making them for Harley's next. Man I can see this company exploding when they expand into the deep pockets of Harley owners. The only down side to owning an auto clutch is little extra heat produced but this can be cured by simply adding a better coolant. Like that Ice coolant I see sold everywhere. I bow down to the creator of the Rekluse ? :smirk: :bonk:? :cry: :devil:?? Oh and the thing with finding neutral is it's ALWAYS all the way down the half a click up. WORKS like a charm. PS I noticed tonight that it would idle a little high until I pulled in the clutch over-ride twice then the rpms would go back to normal. Is this a clue the clearances maybe off? Clutch plates worn? Clutch plates sticking together? Any help appreciated... PM me if you are for sure of an answer.

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