YZ250X TALK ME INTO IT

[tkipp96]

Hey everyone. A few years back I decided to sell my wr250f (great trail bike, by the way) to get a drz400 cause I thought I'd be getting more into dual sport riding and less of the trail riding. But I really haven't and now really miss having a true woods weapon, the drz just doesn't cut it in the woods.

I got the wife to agree to me getting a new bike in the spring. I REALLY like the idea of the yz250x - proven durability, reliability, and ability all based on a super fun and capable machine. I've had a KTM before and most of the guys i ride with are on a KTM or husky, and I get it those bikes really are great. But the '23 yz50x is $2800 cheaper than the '23 KTM250xc. I'm sure this conversation has been had a billion times by people on this forum.

The thing that attracts me the most to the Yz250x is the fact that it could be a much more reliable and simpler machine than the KTMs. I ride maybe 5 times a year and am a decent rider. I don't want to spend a lot of time or money working on my bikes (like I did on my 08 Ktm 144sx). The kick start doesn't bother me at all. My main concern is - has anyone actually bought a new yz250x and just kept it stock and ridden it in trails and just been happy with how it performed stock? It seems like every review I have read has guys doing the apex/xc dome, fmf pipes, flywheel weights, and gearing changes before they say they're "happy". In my mind, if you do all that you are approaching 1-2k so why not just buy the KTM that is "ready to race" ??

Again, I go back to my point of loving how the bike is cheap, simple and supposed to be very reliable. I really just got a little spooked reading the reviews noticing that it seemed like literally everyone has put in $1000-2000 of upgrades into it like right off the bat. I really want to just be able to buy it from the dealer, throw on some handguards, have the jetting set to my altitude of 500ft-3000ft, mess with the suspension settings myself to get it to where i like it (not send it out to a shop), then just leave the bike as is. I'm no pro rider but we do ride some pretty tight technically and slow stuff here in the north east, but again i ride like maybe 5 time per year and my buddies and i aren't racing. 

I want to know if there is anyone out there that has bought one of these, left it basically stock, ridden it in the woods and just liked how it was. That would make me feel very happy. Also keep in mind i am coming off a 20 year old Drz so literally any other bike will be an upgrade, lol. Thanks all for reading and any advice/input

 

[nokturnal]

All you need is kinger jetting and some hand guards. Maybe a skid. 
 

good to go

[Bront]

I bought a '19 brand new and it needs very little to make it the best bike in it's class. Spring it for your weight, Kingers power jet #40 jetting, handguards, a bash plate and an hour meter. You really don't need anything else. Play around with the clickers to suit your style and set the sag. It's got more power than most people can handle, so I see no reason for fancy heads, the stock pipe is great and gearing is ok. I've never tried a FWW but haven't felt the need for one, may be if you crawl around at 2 miles per hour. These bikes rip, are reliable, parts are easy to get, easy to maintain and have the best suspension out there. Do it!

[MANIAC998]

$1000/$2000? Are you kidding me?

The stock pipe is difficult to improve upon and certainly doesn’t need changing. Flywheel weight is less than $100 and is a nice addition for some, but again isn’t needed. Jetting can be improved upon for well under $100, and I mean for likely $20.

Suspension is very very good stock, probably the best out there for everyone short of Pro.

Handguards, skid plate (depending on riding terrain) and $20 in jets.

Done!!

[tkipp96]

1 hour ago, nokturnal said:

All you need is kinger jetting and some hand guards. Maybe a skid. 
 

good to go

Is “kinger” a brand of jets?

[tkipp96]

1 hour ago, Bront said:

I bought a '19 brand new and it needs very little to make it the best bike in it's class. Spring it for your weight, Kingers power jet #40 jetting, handguards, a bash plate and an hour meter. You really don't need anything else. Play around with the clickers to suit your style and set the sag. It's got more power than most people can handle, so I see no reason for fancy heads, the stock pipe is great and gearing is ok. I've never tried a FWW but haven't felt the need for one, may be if you crawl around at 2 miles per hour. These bikes rip, are reliable, parts are easy to get, easy to maintain and have the best suspension out there. Do it!

Love to hear all that!! Is this Kingers power jet #40 something I could just buy online and install easily myself?

[tkipp96]

10 minutes ago, MANIAC998 said:

$1000/$2000? Are you kidding me?

The stock pipe is difficult to improve upon and certainly doesn’t need changing. Flywheel weight is less than $100 and is a nice addition for some, but again isn’t needed. Jetting can be improved upon for well under $100, and I mean for likely $20.

Suspension is very very good stock, probably the best out there for everyone short of Pro.

Handguards, skid plate (depending on riding terrain) and $20 in jets.

Done!!

Yeah I know 1000/2000 was a stretch but a lot of the reviews I was reading guys were doing full exhaust upgrades and full suspension builds (for me totally unnecessary) so like you said I could probably just throw on some hand guards, skid plate and some jets and call it good. 
 

thanks for the input!! 

[mlatour]

An aftermarket cylinder head is often mentioned, keep in mind it's usually not to achieve any gains in power

but to correct the less than optimal compression squish band height (clearance between head and piston)

which is less than optimal and conservative on pretty much all Yamaha 2-strokes in stock form.

 

The same results can be achieved machining the stock cylinder head and/or, using a thinner cylinder base gasket.

The results are more efficient combustion, crisper running engine and, carb settings that are tolerant to a wider range of ambient temps.

 

Edited November 7, 2022 by mlatour

[Orange Crush 500]

Did you look into the woods specific FX model. I dont know the price difference though. I dont know if its better to just convert the X to an FX.

I know the FX has a 18inch rear tire, 6 speed wide ratio trans, slower reving engine, kickstand, i would imagine different valving in suspension, and maybe some other differences

Edited November 7, 2022 by Orange Crush 500

[MANIAC998]

15 minutes ago, tkipp96 said:

Yeah I know 1000/2000 was a stretch but a lot of the reviews I was reading guys were doing full exhaust upgrades and full suspension builds (for me totally unnecessary) so like you said I could probably just throw on some hand guards, skid plate and some jets and call it good. 
 

thanks for the input!! 

The amount of money I have “invested” into my 125 borders on idiotic, especially considering I’m mid-pack B skill level and burning $80/gal fuel.

 I don’t need any of it, but I want it just the same. The vast majority of us like tinkering with our bikes to suit us and to simply stand out from the pack.

One of the greatest improvement’s you can make to your bike is running proper tires, period!

[nokturnal]

38 minutes ago, tkipp96 said:

Love to hear all that!! Is this Kingers power jet #40 something I could just buy online and install easily myself?

Search the forum for 40 powerjet. It’s a a jetting recipe. Credit @Kinger317

[nokturnal]

Don’t rule out the 125X. It’s a similar machine. 
 

I have both and just getting the 125 broken in. It may see more time than the 250. For tighter trails it’s amazing. 

[tkipp96]

1 hour ago, mlatour said:

An aftermarket cylinder head is often mentioned, keep in mind it's usually not to achieve any gains in power

but to correct the less than optimal compression squish band height (clearance between head and piston)

which is less than optimal and conservative on pretty much all Yamaha 2-strokes in stock form.

 

The same results can be achieved machining the stock cylinder head and/or, using a thinner cylinder base gasket.

The results are more efficient combustion, crisper running engine and, carb settings that are tolerant to a wider range of ambient temps.

 

but is the bike still good without the aftermarket cylinder heads? for your average joe decent trail rider riding a handful of times a year? what are the downsides to the "less than optimal compression squish band height"

1 hour ago, nokturnal said:

Don’t rule out the 125X. It’s a similar machine. 
 

I have both and just getting the 125 broken in. It may see more time than the 250. For tighter trails it’s amazing. 

I did look into the 125x but I am 200+ pounds and really think i would benefit from the extra poneys

[tkipp96]

1 hour ago, Orange Crush 500 said:

Did you look into the woods specific FX model. I dont know the price difference though. I dont know if its better to just convert the X to an FX.

I know the FX has a 18inch rear tire, 6 speed wide ratio trans, slower reving engine, kickstand, i would imagine different valving in suspension, and maybe some other differences

the FX is the same thing but a 4 stroke and more expensive and gets all the fancy tech upgrades that the 2 stroke doesn't 

[nokturnal]

7 minutes ago, tkipp96 said:

but is the bike still good without the aftermarket cylinder heads? for your average joe decent trail rider riding a handful of times a year? what are the downsides to the "less than optimal compression squish band height"

I did look into the 125x but I am 200+ pounds and really think i would benefit from the extra poneys

I'm 185 and it's great for me. Likely depends on the type of riding. Average Joe

The squish band optimization with make jetting easier, and maybe give bit more punch off the bottom. Personally, I haven't needed to touch mine and didn't find it all that difficult to dial in. Bike has a LOT of poke.  

[shrubitup]

4 hours ago, Orange Crush 500 said:

I dont know if its better to just convert the X to an FX.

So you're saying one should remove the two cycle engine to install a fuel injected four cycle engine? Will it fit? Is this an inexpensive modification? Can I attach the two cycle exhaust to the four cycle engine? Where do I install the battery from the YZ250FX upon the YZ250X? Will it need four cycle suspension too or should I just use the stuff tuned for the weight of the two cycle model?

Edited November 7, 2022 by shrubitup

[Kinger317]

1 hour ago, tkipp96 said:

Is “kinger” a brand of jets?

 

1 hour ago, tkipp96 said:

Love to hear all that!! Is this Kingers power jet #40 something I could just buy online and install easily myself?

The jetting they refer to is straight from Yamaha's parts fiche. Cost you about $14 or $26 if you really wanted to splurge. Simple to install, this winter maybe read that power jet #40 topic on here.

Based on your original post, I don't think there is a better motorcycle you could buy. It is the most simple, durable, and reliable bike you could own, and the performance is on par with anything available today. There is tons of new and used parts available. If you only ride about five times a year (that will triple after you ride at once) I would recommend buying a gallon of Motul 710, do the math and put a splash of StarTron directly in it then buy premium pump gas from a high-volume station as needed.

FWIW I prefer the straight up motocross version YZ250 for NE woods because I would do the suspension no matter which model. Tires, grips, and footpegs are the only other things I do. Most everything else is stock. If I didn't do my own suspension, I would get the X model, and just ride✊

[tkipp96]

45 minutes ago, Kinger317 said:

 

The jetting they refer to is straight from Yamaha's parts fiche. Cost you about $14 or $26 if you really wanted to splurge. Simple to install, this winter maybe read that power jet #40 topic on here.

Based on your original post, I don't think there is a better motorcycle you could buy. It is the most simple, durable, and reliable bike you could own, and the performance is on par with anything available today. There is tons of new and used parts available. If you only ride about five times a year (that will triple after you ride at once) I would recommend buying a gallon of Motul 710, do the math and put a splash of StarTron directly in it then buy premium pump gas from a high-volume station as needed.

FWIW I prefer the straight up motocross version YZ250 for NE woods because I would do the suspension no matter which model. Tires, grips, and footpegs are the only other things I do. Most everything else is stock. If I didn't do my own suspension, I would get the X model, and just ride✊

Fantastic info thank you!! Exactly the type of feedback i was looking for. 

So you'd suggest the Motul 710 for the pre-mix? And i assume you mean to use the startron + premium gas is an effort to keep the carb clean/free of gumming up. I even do that with my Drz currently as a precaution, I find that just putting good gas in the bike and a little bit of startron and running the bike at least every month or 2 is the easiest way to prevent annoying carb cleanings/bike running shitty after it sits a while. So easy to do and makes your life easier for the next ride. Plus i imagine the jetting/carb situation will be a bit more needy and finnicky than my current Drz

 

[tkipp96]

54 minutes ago, Kinger317 said:

 

The jetting they refer to is straight from Yamaha's parts fiche. Cost you about $14 or $26 if you really wanted to splurge. Simple to install, this winter maybe read that power jet #40 topic on here.

Based on your original post, I don't think there is a better motorcycle you could buy. It is the most simple, durable, and reliable bike you could own, and the performance is on par with anything available today. There is tons of new and used parts available. If you only ride about five times a year (that will triple after you ride at once) I would recommend buying a gallon of Motul 710, do the math and put a splash of StarTron directly in it then buy premium pump gas from a high-volume station as needed.

FWIW I prefer the straight up motocross version YZ250 for NE woods because I would do the suspension no matter which model. Tires, grips, and footpegs are the only other things I do. Most everything else is stock. If I didn't do my own suspension, I would get the X model, and just ride✊

Also guessing since you are from NY we probably have similar climate, do you run what premix ratio do you run? and the power jet #40 topic on here is that authored by you?

[Kinger317]

17 minutes ago, tkipp96 said:

Fantastic info thank you!! Exactly the type of feedback i was looking for. 

So you'd suggest the Motul 710 for the pre-mix? And i assume you mean to use the startron + premium gas is an effort to keep the carb clean/free of gumming up. I even do that with my Drz currently as a precaution, I find that just putting good gas in the bike and a little bit of startron and running the bike at least every month or 2 is the easiest way to prevent annoying carb cleanings/bike running shitty after it sits a while. So easy to do and makes your life easier for the next ride. Plus i imagine the jetting/carb situation will be a bit more needy and finnicky than my current Drz

 

I should not have brought up oil but yes, for those who aren't WFO motocross 710 is good. The point I was making is if you don't run the bike very often a lot of people are afraid of ethanol etc. For those it's not a bad idea to add a little StarTron directly to the oil bottle, then you don't have to worry about it. I don't worry about it because I've never had a problem, even letting them sit over the winter.

Once you get the bike, set up, "the jetting/carb situation will" NOT be finicky.

21 minutes ago, tkipp96 said:

Also guessing since you are from NY we probably have similar climate, do you run what premix ratio do you run? and the power jet #40 topic on here is that authored by you?

Trust me, you don't wanna bring up oil and ratio! But FWIW I like 40:1

Yes, I started the power jet #40 topic