Rivet vs clip master chain link?

[Tahoe Gator]

I need a longer chain for a gearing change on my 2022 Sherco SE 300 Factory. This is my first time replacing a modern O-ring or X-ring style chain. A bit of research landed me on selecting a D.I.D. 520 EVRT X-ring chain. I’d welcome opinions on that choice of chain but …

…seems no matter which chain I get I will need a chain breaker and press tool and am hoping these might be adequate?..:

Which leaves the question of the subject of this post: Is a clip-style master link adequate or do I need to go with a rivet style master link?..:in which case I premise I would then also have to buy a chain rivet tool?

I have replaced many chains on my road and mountain bikes, but not on a dirt bike. Any advice is much appreciated!

[SlowDinoDog]

DID makes a clip style master link for that chain.

I use clip master links because I periodically pull the chain off to clean it and the bike.

MotionPro makes a nice tool to press the plates on or off with the clip master links.

Edited April 17, 2022 by SlowDinoDog

[EmpireofDerp]

I use a clip. I take the old link off with a file, it's super easy. 

[Trombolio]

I prefer clip style for removing the chain and easier install. Worn chainguide will wear the clip out so you need to keep an eye on that whenever you check your chain. To make it shorter I just grind off a river head and punch it out. 

[SuperHonkycross]

I use both but prefer rivet links. It makes chain removal a pain in the ass but I don’t do much chain maintenance and still get decent life out of them. By the time the chain is worn out, it is usually time to grease the swing arm and linkage bearings anyway.

I’ve never had a clip link fail myself but have seen numerous failures in races and rides. 

[Tahoe Gator]

8 hours ago, SlowDinoDog said:

DID makes a clip style master link for that chain.

I use clip master links because I periodically pull the chain off to clean it and the bike.

MotionPro makes a nice tool to press the plates on or off with the clip master links.

Thanks @SlowDinoDog

Curiously, the link shown with the Motion Pro tool does not seem to have an actual “clip” so does that tool somehow use master links that don’t have an actual clip on them?

[76xtdrvr]

I've used both and never had a problem with either. For max reliability on a rivet style master link, you'll need a special tool to swedge "mushroom" the master link pin ends; not too little, not too much. For your mostly off road Sherco, I'd go with a clip master link.

[Mariom1]

I use both.  I like the rivet style on all my street bikes. I use the clip style on my dirtbikes and quads. Just feel a little safer ripping down the highway with traffic with the rivet style. But I never had a problem with either .

[SlowDinoDog]

12 minutes ago, Tahoe Gator said:

Thanks @SlowDinoDog

Curiously, the link shown with the Motion Pro tool does not seem to have an actual “clip” so does that tool somehow use master links that don’t have an actual clip on them?

The tool is for both types of masterlinks.

The flat plate piece is a slight press fit for both types.

Inexpensive chains will use a plate that just slips on. The higher strength DID chains have the light press fit.

[William1]

The rivet style is nearly unbreakable. It is use once and replace. A clip style will not fail if installed right. If also removed properly, it can be re-used, often lasting the life of the chain. Really all up to the guy doing the work.

Cutting chain is easy with an angle grinder. Too much effort with a file. Put the new chain on the bike. Start at the top of rear sprocket (lock the rear brake on so as to prevent the wheel from turning) and go through the guide, over the CS and back to the rear sprocket. Pull as taught as you can and put the chain on the top of the sprocket. Now you know where to cut. I use a file and cut a notch in the outer plate as a identifying mark. Remove the chain from the bike. Clamp in a vise. Grind the heads of the pins off on your marked outer plate. Grind flush to where there is no 'appearance' of the pins. Using the chain tool, the pins will slip right out of the outer plate. Install on bike.

Remember measure thrice, cut once. Cut it twice and it will still be too short.....

I use the clip style

[kcposty]

Typical clip style master link failure is due to the aforementioned bent or worn out chain guide or rub blocks and then rolling the bike backwards. The open end of the clip is more prone to snagging in this situation.

Stay with the same brand/type of spare master link, they do not interchange well. I buy a spare at same time as chain.

Edited April 17, 2022 by kcposty

[HRC27MXR]

9 hours ago, Tahoe Gator said:

I need a longer chain for a gearing change on my 2022 Sherco SE 300 Factory. This is my first time replacing a modern O-ring or X-ring style chain. A bit of research landed me on selecting a D.I.D. 520 EVRT X-ring chain. I’d welcome opinions on that choice of chain but …

…seems no matter which chain I get I will need a chain breaker and press tool and am hoping these might be adequate?..:

Which leaves the question of the subject of this post: Is a clip-style master link adequate or do I need to go with a rivet style master link?..:in which case I premise I would then also have to buy a chain rivet tool?

I have replaced many chains on my road and mountain bikes, but not on a dirt bike. Any advice is much appreciated!

Everything you need is in your post. My thought, rivet for street, clip for dirt. I use a bent screwdriver I bent for shingles damaged from high winds to remove the outer clip as needed. Just do a little one side, a little the other, etc. Buy a 120 link chain, install the chain and cut off the links you don't need making sure you leave a full link. I meet the ends on the rear sprocket and bend up the extra links, mark the pins (Sharpie) to grind w/a Dremel. That way the master link removal tool's "pins" last longer. I remove them evenly.

 

Edited April 17, 2022 by HRC27MXR

[EmpireofDerp]

1 hour ago, William1 said:

The rivet style is nearly unbreakable. It is use once and replace. A clip style will not fail if installed right. If also removed properly, it can be re-used, often lasting the life of the chain. Really all up to the guy doing the work.

Cutting chain is easy with an angle grinder. Too much effort with a file. Put the new chain on the bike. Start at the top of rear sprocket (lock the rear brake on so as to prevent the wheel from turning) and go through the guide, over the CS and back to the rear sprocket. Pull as taught as you can and put the chain on the top of the sprocket. Now you know where to cut. I use a file and cut a notch in the outer plate as a identifying mark. Remove the chain from the bike. Clamp in a vise. Grind the heads of the pins off on your marked outer plate. Grind flush to where there is no 'appearance' of the pins. Using the chain tool, the pins will slip right out of the outer plate. Install on bike.

Remember measure thrice, cut once. Cut it twice and it will still be too short.....

I use the clip style

Filing pins is too much effort? From a guy who rakes several acres regularly and cleans his lake with a pool Skimmer? ?

[William1]

2 minutes ago, Figjam McGahee said:

Filing pins is too much effort? From a guy who rakes several acres regularly and cleans his lake with a pool Skimmer? ?

I do not rake, I have a giant back pack blower. Check google earth for the nicest lawn, that'll be my place ?

I'll admit to cleaning the lake with a skimmer though. However, the real easy way to do things is to have people. Having people to do things for you, especially if you do not have to ask them, instruct them or even speak to them, is better. I need people, ideally to do things and do so silently at night when I am sleeping.

[EmpireofDerp]

4 minutes ago, William1 said:

 However, the real easy way to do things is to have people. Having people to do things for you, especially if you do not have to ask them, instruct them or even speak to them, is better. I need people, ideally to do things and do so silently at night when I am sleeping.

 

[Ud_Luz]

6 hours ago, William1 said:

The rivet style is nearly unbreakable. It is use once and replace. A clip style will not fail if installed right.

Not true if you ride a lot on really rocky trails. It's common to bend the chain guide in which quickly wears the clip. I always use rivet on because of where I ride plus losing 25 or 30 miles from camp is the pits.

For those that don't ride in those conditions the clip style is fine. 

Every single year I go to Colorado I wind up coming across somebody on the trail with a master link that fell out. Two years ago went through three of them on a Colorado trip. I keep a couple of spare clip on master links and one of these in the bike's airbox. Cheap and has bailed out a number of people.

[EmpireofDerp]

10 minutes ago, Ud_Luz said:

Not true if you ride a lot on really rocky trails. It's common to bend the chain guide in which quickly wears the clip. I always use rivet on because of where I ride plus losing 25 or 30 miles from camp is the pits.

For those that don't ride in those conditions the clip style is fine. 

Every single year I go to Colorado I wind up coming across somebody on the trail with a master link that fell out. Two years ago went through three of them on a Colorado trip. I keep a couple of spare clip on master links and one of these in the bike's airbox. Cheap and has bailed out a number of people.

You misspelled Calorado.?️‍?

[MetalMan1729]

Where Ud comes to ride in Colorado is practically my back yard. Never had a problem with a clip-style masterlink. Perhaps I'm just lucky, or maybe I just haven't racked up enough riding hours for it to happen to me yet. After all, Ud has been riding since the 19th century... 

[William1]

6 minutes ago, MetalMan1729 said:

Where Ud comes to ride in Colorado is practically my back yard. Never had a problem with a clip-style masterlink. Perhaps I'm just lucky, or maybe I just haven't racked up enough riding hours for it to happen to me yet. After all, Ud has been riding since the 19th century... 

I think his problem is the wooden spokes....

[montage]

Just another tech tip on the masterlink clip:

If you are a hard enduro type, or ride in rocky/extreme terrain- insert the masterlink from the outside of the chain and have the clip on the inside nearest the spokes. This is a decent failsafe for having the  clip damaged and lost.  
Why?  The chain guide gets bent inward vast majority of the time, and will then start grinding away at the clip.  If the clip is on the opposite side it this loss of clearance will not impact the clip  

A little extra effort to do this, but it’s a good tip.