XR250R Worth the money?

[Donald Bell]

I have a Honda 2002 XR250R. I purchased this bike from a good friend that had gotten it new and it has very low hours. I’ve been out of racing/riding in general until my daughter got into riding and I bought this one to ride with her. 
 

I love this bike! It runs very good and is one of those bikes that are just fun. I was kicking the idea around of having RaceTech gold valving installed front and rear and possibly a new rear spring closer to my weight. I’m around 155 and it’s a little stiff for my weight. 
 

I was curious at you guys opinion on whether putting $600- $700 in suspension versus putting that money in a newer bike? I’ve only got $1100 in this bike so I could probably get my money back if I sold it.
 

I may run a local enduro or hare scramble in the 45 + class with it but nothing more than that. 

 

Thanks

[bajatrailrider]

forget ractec gold valves  late xr250 forks bad. if you can up grade xr400 forks. if not change different wt oil slightly stiffer spring. Rear shock revalve no ractec gold valve. 

[EmpireofDerp]

Flog it as is or sell it and buy something else. It's like a daytime stripper, maybe throw a couple bucks at it but keep the benjamins in your pocket. 

[JohnnyWR250]

Up to you, if you like it keep it

I have had plenty of newer bikes recently - KTM 500/KTM 400/New Yam WR250F reverse cylinder..............but the XR400R stays in the garage, as other newer and better bikes arrive and leave the garage, none (despite better performance/suspension/chassis and electric start) have the charm and good looks of my XR400

[MaxPower]

You have a solid XR there. It's low hour and reliable. To answer the question if sending your suspension to race tech is only something you can do. Myself I might not use RT but a suspension guy that Ive had good results with.  When you are done you'll have a fun bike that will last for years.

[510KTM]

Suspension is always money well spent when done right . Congrats on the new to you bike 

[Chuckster]

I have a 2002 xr250r I punched out to 280 when it was very low miles. I pute a gold valve u up front. Helped a lot. If you do so, I'd suggest you underestimate your weight by 20 lbs or so on racetech profile, use lighter oil but use their spring rate for your weight. The front fork needs to flow a lot better. I havent done the back, I have a ktm 500exc and a xr650r that get most of my dirt time these days but I should. The little xr is a a peach in the rough, rocks. I'll never sell it. Gets winded open desert, lots of sand, sandhills. It's also plated.

 

If you can, I also suggest you follow Larry's advice.  (Baja trailrider) If. I could I would put xr400 forks on it. Have the steering stem. Years ago when a buddy sold me xr400 forks for 59 bux, I went thru them and put em on my xr600. (Fantastic mod btw) Sold that bike with the forks, been kinda distracted. It's a shame there's no do it yourself suspension shim advice like for the xr650r Borynack stacks...did that up for 6 dollars in shims plus oil! This guy told you what to drill out, how big, and what shims for what trails.???

 

Lots of fun. Damn bike gets about 60 mpg ! Even crossed Death Valley on it 2x.

 

Edited October 6, 2020 by Chuckster
Omission

[dieseleveryday]

Having just dropped some serious coin on a beta myself I can understand the appeal of newer bike but I mainly did so to finally have the time and not be down a trail bike to get the 400 into better shape for the riding I like to do with it. The bikes you love will always be worth keeping and improving as long as you maintain them they will always be able to keep them in running order part of that is amassing spares and wear items while they are still available. 

Also consider a xr will be far more reliable at 400hrs on a top end than a high performance bike will be at 75hrs as long as a xr has oil and gas and you have ambition you can get it to run I put 10kmi a year on my 400 for the last 7 years or so and no idea of miles before that but it just started using oil this summer and with 85psi of compression it was getting to be a pain to start when cold but  at that it still rode I don't think anything modern will still be kicking around at 22years old and with all the spares I have I'll be riding it in another 22 even if I have to make my own fuel lol hell honda will probably still selling the 650l then

Edited October 6, 2020 by dieseleveryday

[Captain.Olives]

I don't have any direct experience with the XR250r and would listen to bajatrailrider on this.   Its the only recent fullsize XR I haven't owned. 

From what I do know about the bike, its forks are compression only adjustment via the bottom of the forks and the rear is fully adjustable.   I don't what your experience is, are you thinking of just trying some harescrambles and enduros as a novice in the senior class, or is it something you have done regularly in the past in addition to trail riding?   

In my experience, there isnt anything magic about the gold valves.  I've gotten as good or even better using a trusted local tuner whom I can talk to and understands what I am feeling and looking for WHEN I CANT accomplish it on my own.   So I attempt to adjust/set them up myself first.  On many bikes I can get the results I want with clickers, springs, oil...... and when I don't, then I work with a pro to get the valving right.  

Considering the age of the bike and it capabilities, and where I assume you are at as a rider... just starting out racing and only casually...  I would suggest not spending a ton of money on the bike.   Use it as learning experience to see what you can tune using the stock parts first.

Something to consider while doing this, bushings, seals, and even wipers that are old, worn, and or hard can really affect the feel of the forks by causing stiction.  Stiction will make the forks feel harsher/stiffer than needed.   OEM or very high quality SKF is the only way to go.  Don't even consider any of the cheaper after market parts here in my experience.  While in there, you can try a lighter fork oil, like 2.5 wt.   If these items and or backing out the compression clicker on the bottom of the fork dont get you where you want to be, try a softer spring.   BTW, Cannon Racecraft is going to be the only place to get springs in the increments you will want that I am aware of.  

With your back, similar advice.   Remove your swingarm pivot bolt, linkage, and inspect/grease all of your bearings.   They can really affect the feel of the bike.   The set your sag as best you can with the stock spring.  Ride it while backing out your clickers, and if still too stiff, then go with a softer spring (Cannon again.) 

Only after going through this process front and rear would I then consider revalving if at all.  As an added bonus, going through this process will help you communicate with a PRO on what you are feeling, where, and what you tried.  It will help him help you, ultimately getting more out of any changes or mods to the suspension.  

The XR250R is a cool bike, as are all the XRs.   I'm a big fan of them, especially for the money.  But they are not modern bikes, and modern bikes do have superior suspension.   They can be made pretty good, but they wont be on par with 2020 KTM 250 XCF or YZ250FX.   Keeping that in mind along with the huge price difference, only you can decide how much to invest in the suspension.  Sometimes knowing that allows you to enjoy what you have made the best is can be for XXX budget.   For many riders, and even some novice, very casual racers, the XR's components modified is all they need.  

Just my opinion and experience, others will vary.    

 

Edited October 6, 2020 by Captain.Olives

[Chuckster]

With a 250, and 400 the fork valving is stacks of disks in a cage, sort of like the flash suppressor on an j14 rifle, if that makes sense. Oil flows in from the bottom. Disks inside this cage rest on the holes allowing pil to flow past as fork compresses. The stack of disks is pushed shut by a spring at top. Stock oil flow can be adjusted by eliminating more than half these disks, allowing more flow. It helps. The gold valve takes the oem out of the picture and replaces it with a bendable shim stack. Plenty of oil can flow thru the stack, the shims now limit flow, not the size of holes at the bottom of the stock stack. It's now more tunable. That's the use of the gold valve. Good luck. They are thinner tubes,  more stiction than the 400.

[dieseleveryday]

http://www.emigracing.com/xr250rcrf.html

Go inverted 

[PopWill]

I think my old XR 250’s were my favorite bikes ever. Undoubtedly the toughest, and easiest to maintain. And I was faster on my 250 than my current 400. If I had one that nice, I would set it up to my liking, buy up every spare part I could think of, and ride it until my riding days were done. 

[countrykiller76]

On 9/16/2020 at 8:36 AM, Donald Bell said:

I have a Honda 2002 XR250R. I purchased this bike from a good friend that had gotten it new and it has very low hours. I’ve been out of racing/riding in general until my daughter got into riding and I bought this one to ride with her. 
 

I love this bike! It runs very good and is one of those bikes that are just fun. I was kicking the idea around of having RaceTech gold valving installed front and rear and possibly a new rear spring closer to my weight. I’m around 155 and it’s a little stiff for my weight. 
 

I was curious at you guys opinion on whether putting $600- $700 in suspension versus putting that money in a newer bike? I’ve only got $1100 in this bike so I could probably get my money back if I sold it.
 

I may run a local enduro or hare scramble in the 45 + class with it but nothing more than that. 

 

Thanks

I ride mine endurocross. Every penny you put into suspension and a mikuni carb are very well worth it. 

[Donald Bell]

18 hours ago, countrykiller76 said:

I ride mine endurocross. Every penny you put into suspension and a mikuni carb are very well worth it. 

What kind and size Mikuni carb do you run? 
 

Thanks

[countrykiller76]

37 minutes ago, Donald Bell said:

What kind and size Mikuni carb do you run? 
 

Thanks

The carb is a TM36-68. It may be the same for your 250 but check to be sure.  and the suspension I believe is Pivot Worx. I’m 400 miles from my bike and can’t remember. Sorry. 

[Daniel Edgerly]

I was asking myself this very question last week. Should I sell my XR4 and buy a newer bike with E-start? I test rode a newer WR250F, Huskys, really wanted a Beta 390 rr-s or a CRF450L.  I decided to keep my XR and send my suspension to factory connection (I live in NH so its local). My rationel to keep the XR is the ease of maintenance, reliability, and after the suspension the bike will pretty much be set up as I like it. You just cannot replace those things about an XR with new bikes. 

 

If I was you, I would hold onto that Xr250r and have the suspension sprung and valved for you. Than set up the cockpit exactly how you like it for racing and get a good skidplate. You may be surprised just how well that XR does against the newer bikes.