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R1 Flywheel removal - stripped

By Andyr90,
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Andyr90

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Hey guys,

I'm new here, and i know this thread is really old, but i REALLY need some help with this same issue. I bought this bike 3 months ago (2000 R1) basically virgin bike with low mileage (14k) for cheap. I needed to change the stator and have run into this huge issue. As you can see by my pics, we have finally resorted to cutting most of the flywheel away so that we could see more, and I've started attempting to carefully cut the stator off to get even more visibility. I'm new to working on street bikes, and like a dummy, i didnt do enough research ahead of time and didnt know that the puller threads were reverse thread. Needless to say they're gone. Attempted to drill and tap with no luck, its too far gone. As you can see we've hit it with heat. We're totally at a loss. All i wanted to do was replace the stator and rebuild the carbs (which i did successfully) and ride the rest of the summer lol. It seems seized on there! Am i missing something?! Thanks in advance for all your help! I am terrified to ruin the crank with anymore cutting! I cut grooves in the flywheel and used a jaw puller and impact before cutting it, with no success. It actually appeared to start to cave the center of the flywheel slightly. We've torched it and beat on it.

20200718_183906.jpg

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The Agitator

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As a suggestion, make sure the engine is locked so the crank doesn't turn. IE bike in 1st gear on the ground and have a buddy hold the rear brake down would be the easiest.

I don't know if what's left of the FW unloosens left or right but since you already have notches, use a cold chisel angled in the left notch (move it to the top) and try tapping with a hammer in the correct direction.

13YA56_AS01?$zmmain$

Adjust the width of the notch a bit if needed and hope this helps

 

Edited by filterx
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BillDirt1

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I've used a Motion-Pro gearcase separator to remove a flywheel before. Need to drill & tap three holes for 6mm ×1 pitch, in what's left of the flywheel first. As close to 120° apart as possible.

Edited by Diverdown
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Russell Dp

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On 7/18/2020 at 5:08 PM, Andyr90 said:

Thanks for the reply. Any idea how i find out which way to hit and turn it with the cold chisel? I like the idea though, I'll definitely give it a shot.

What does the factory repair manual say about the flywheel removal?  I'd start out with that page opened up before I'd grab a hammer and a chisel.  

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Andyr90

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Russell,

i totally agree. Unfortunately, it only says what i already know. Remove all bolts in the order that i have, and that the puller should remove it easily. However, it didn't go that way at all for me lol. It's so frustrating watching all these videos where they pop right off. Been soaking the end of the crank with PB Blaster for 2 days now. this evening im going to attempt the jaw puller again, followed by the cold chisel or more grinding/cutting..... i guess!

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Andyr90

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1 hour ago, bweighmaster said:

ALL BOLTS AND FASTENERS  ARE  RIGHT HAND THREAD ...    UNLESS MARKED ..  IF IT IS  LH ..  MANUAL WILL  SPECIFY .......

I didn't notice that anywhere in the manual either. Several people in their removal videos stated that it was. I kept trying standard right hand and it eventually stripped the threads on both the flywheel where the puller goes, and the puller bolt threads.

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Andyr90

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5 minutes ago, bweighmaster said:

Cutoff wheel ,  only solution now ..    

I think so too brotha, just nervous as hell. I can't touch the crank at all or its toast right? I dont even know what it'll cost to have a shop replace the crankshaft 

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Andyr90

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14 minutes ago, bweighmaster said:

Not trying to be a  Dick ,   should have thought about that a while ago .. when you started this.  ..... only one way to go now ....   forward .....   get your confidence up and get  crackin...   Or cutting ....

No offense taken man but what was i to do if it wont come off and the threads to pull it stripped. 

Was hoping if i cut most of it off to make the jaw puller grip better i might have a shot. But no dice.

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Russell Dp

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13 minutes ago, Andyr90 said:

I think so too brotha, just nervous as hell. I can't touch the crank at all or its toast right? I dont even know what it'll cost to have a shop replace the crankshaft 

You got the right perspective of you problem. Andy, if it were mine at this point, I would get the proper puller and if you can't properly thread it into what's left of the flywheel, weld it in place.  This should then come off, as designed, without wrecking the crank. I think it's your best chance of success at this point.

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Andyr90

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4 minutes ago, Russell Dp said:

You got the right perspective of you problem. Andy, if it were mine at this point, I would get the proper puller and if you can't properly thread it into what's left of the flywheel, weld it in place.  This should then come off, as designed, without wrecking the crank. I think it's your best chance of success at this point.

Great idea. But the way this one is set up, it doesn't spin off left or right. The puller bolt actually threars in and pushes off of the crabk to unseat the FW but its like its siezed on. Thought about welding a nut to the center with a grade 8 bolt to match. But I cant weld aluminum and i dont think JB weld will hold. I finally realized what you meant about spinning off left or right the other night. Unfortunately it wont work. 

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Andyr90

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2 minutes ago, Russell Dp said:

Not familiar with this model, are you sure the flywheel is aluminum?  

Not positive, but thats what I've been told by a couple more experienced guys. Im new to working on street bikes. Trucks and small engines are more my speed lol

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Andyr90

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6 minutes ago, Russell Dp said:

Put a magnet on what's left of the flywheel. If it sticks it's steel.

Idk why i didnt think about that same little trick i learned from the scrap yard years ago lol. Thsnks for that, i just found out it IS steel. So thats what I'll do if this jaw puller doesn't work. I'll try that before anymore cutting since i havent hit the crank yet. FW is close to split from cutting the other day but that will be my last resort.

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