Is this a bad idea? Suspension crf250L

[Patrick Terrana]

Have a 2019 CRF250L, and been talking to ohlins about doing their suspension.  However I dont want to tear the bike apart during riding season to send out forks. Was thinking, can I do the rear shock and just adjust fork height to match? I'm 5'6", 275lbs, so the rear shock will be stiffer and valved for me, and lowered 1-1.5". So let's say the rear, instead of sagging 3" with me on it, it now only sags 2", is internally lowered 1", and adjust the front forks in the triple clamp to match 3" lower with me on it to keep the same geometry,  will this be dangerous running the front under sprung and under dampened? Currently having trouble getting off the bike as the suspension unloads 3"s, so want to do this sooner than later, then next winter send out forks. Hope to hear some input!

[kdxyardsale]

Your end game plan is good, but you do have reason to ask. A less sprung front than rear is a recipe for a trip over the bars. You could ride around and be careful, but who is really careful on a dirtbike, there is always that one moment when you are at speed, have to make it through something, and the suspension gets pushed to the max. Now the front and rear are fighting each other. The stock front on that bike is likely set for a 150 lb rider. Lowering in the forks is necessary to keep the right balance and weight on the front, that is important for turning in soft dirt. The best you could do without modifying the front, if it has adjustments is crank the compression setting up as far as they would go. Test ride in some nasty chop, whoops or braking bumps. You might want to consider buying weight rating springs for the front and do those yourself, pretty easy not too expensive. Then down the road have the done professionally to match the rear. 

[Patrick Terrana]

1 hour ago, kdxyardsale said:

Your end game plan is good, but you do have reason to ask. A less sprung front than rear is a recipe for a trip over the bars. You could ride around and be careful, but who is really careful on a dirtbike, there is always that one moment when you are at speed, have to make it through something, and the suspension gets pushed to the max. Now the front and rear are fighting each other. The stock front on that bike is likely set for a 150 lb rider. Lowering in the forks is necessary to keep the right balance and weight on the front, that is important for turning in soft dirt. The best you could do without modifying the front, if it has adjustments is crank the compression setting up as far as they would go. Test ride in some nasty chop, whoops or braking bumps. You might want to consider buying weight rating springs for the front and do those yourself, pretty easy not too expensive. Then down the road have the done professionally to match the rear. 

No adjustments on front, just rear preload. Oh crap, I guess I forgot to mention the terrain I'm riding on, so far 98% pavement, .5% gravel, .5% dirt service road, 1% lawn hahaha, I know, because I have exactly 120 miles on it. I wish I was a better rider, and believe this is the perfect bike to dip my toes in. I have a 2019 yamaha grizzly for off road, just always loved the way dirt bikes look, but being blessed with my dads Italian, short, stocky, Danny Davitto stature, never been a option. Just torqued up the rear spring to max (about 3/4" more preload vs. Factory), might try to take it for a quick ride and see how that fairs after the snow melts (thanks NY...) I could live stock until winter, but will be hard too! 

[paulie1960]

5 hours ago, Patrick Terrana said:

Have a 2019 CRF250L, and been talking to ohlins about doing their suspension.  However I dont want to tear the bike apart during riding season to send out forks. Was thinking, can I do the rear shock and just adjust fork height to match? I'm 5'6", 275lbs, so the rear shock will be stiffer and valved for me, and lowered 1-1.5". So let's say the rear, instead of sagging 3" with me on it, it now only sags 2", is internally lowered 1", and adjust the front forks in the triple clamp to match 3" lower with me on it to keep the same geometry,  will this be dangerous running the front under sprung and under dampened? Currently having trouble getting off the bike as the suspension unloads 3"s, so want to do this sooner than later, then next winter send out forks. Hope to hear some input!

I dont know much about the crf250l I own a wr250r, do you really need to lower the bike, your 5'6 and a big strong boy, if you get a least one foot on the ground almost flat thats all you need, lowering sometimes changes geometry for poor steer/turning, If your new to riding I would just get stiffer springs on rear, run more sag and on front you can get stiffer spring, racetech kits and heavier oil at least for the first 5000mi befor you spend $$ on a shocks, the crf is only $5000 motorcycle new and putting thousands of dollars in shocks and forks, really worth it just saying

[Patrick Terrana]

9 minutes ago, paulie1960 said:

I dont know much about the crf250l I own a wr250r, do you really need to lower the bike, your 5'6 and a big strong boy, if you get a least one foot on the ground almost flat thats all you need, lowering sometimes changes geometry for poor steer/turning, If your new to riding I would just get stiffer springs on rear, run more sag and on front you can get stiffer spring, racetech kits and heavier oil at least for the first 5000mi befor you spend $$ on a shocks, the crf is only $5000 motorcycle new and putting thousands of dollars in shocks and forks, really worth it just saying

I hear you, actually just got back from a 5 minute test drive in the middle of a snow storm. Can really tell a huge difference in cranking the rear spring, with me in a riding position,  the rear swing arm is at say a 10 degree downward angle vs completely horizontal. Can tell a lot of how much more wieght is transitioned to the front.  Also did hand gaurds and sprocket. But I'm thinking just ride the damn thing, also still havent gotten the lower seat yet and the fiance keeps telling me just try that. Siting proper my heels are now a inch and a half off the ground, but definitely have the balls of my feet touching. Like I said, new to this whole dirtbike thing, and maybe I should just save the $ for now. I just keep hearing how crappy the suspension is and it's the #1 upgrade to do. But, then again, it's not like I'm pounding the moguls like I used to do when i had a sled, and pavement is pretty smooth. Hahaha. Here's me sitting on the bike 100% stock. Adjusting up the preload maybe brought it up a inch.

[kdxyardsale]

So have you considered a Koubalink lowering kit? I am also cursed with the lack of altitude, 5'6" on  a good day, I have heard it all, Frodo, Oompa Loompa, little person, midget, and usually the person doing so is all of 5'8" I am like what are you the Fn Jolly Green Giant?

I put Koubalinks on my 2012 KLX250, I will attach my write up, those, raising the front forks to balance and a seat concepts low seat and I can sit flat footed now. If you are just out for fun and not going to race, there is no reason to replace solid Honda, last forever, shocks and forks. Koubalinks are around $100-$150 and their tech guy is really helpful. My bike has stock suspension, I am 190lbs, and I ride this bike places I probably should not alone and it has never let me down and is a blast, yours will be the same, I actually run it a tad on the soft side of the clickers. If you ride hard enough to bottom the suspension, you might look at stiffer fork and shock spring. Cranking up the rear spring randomly is not recommended, set the sag for your weight, it is easy, find someone who can tell you how and help. The bike will track better, not skip, hop or pack. Then adjust your compression and rebound testing on some washboards, whoops and braking bumps so the wheels have the most contact with the ground. Then set your front fork height so it carves in the turns and doesn't push or headshake at high speed. Enjoy the ride!

 

[Patrick Terrana]

5 minutes ago, kdxyardsale said:

So have you considered a Koubalink lowering kit? I am also cursed with the lack of altitude, 5'6" on  a good day, I have heard it all, Frodo, Oompa Loompa, little person, midget, and usually the person doing so is all of 5'8" I am like what are you the Fn Jolly Green Giant?

I put Koubalinks on my 2012 KLX250, I will attach my write up, those, raising the front forks to balance and a seat concepts low seat and I can sit flat footed now. If you are just out for fun and not going to race, there is no reason to replace solid Honda, last forever, shocks and forks. Koubalinks are around $100-$150 and their tech guy is really helpful. My bike has stock suspension, I am 190lbs, and I ride this bike places I probably should not alone and it has never let me down and is a blast, yours will be the same, I actually run it a tad on the soft side of the clickers. If you ride hard enough to bottom the suspension, you might look at stiffer fork and shock spring. Cranking up the rear spring randomly is not recommended, set the sag for your weight, it is easy, find someone who can tell you how and help. The bike will track better, not skip, hop or pack. Then adjust your compression and rebound testing on some washboards, whoops and braking bumps so the wheels have the most contact with the ground. Then set your front fork height so it carves in the turns and doesn't push or headshake at high speed. Enjoy the ride!

 

I've thought of it, but at 275lbs, the lowering link increases the leverage on the shock, making it softer, the opposite of what I need. The spring pre load on the rear is the only adjustment whatsoever on the bike. Even with it cranked, I'm sure I'm still excessively sagged, but rides much better than previously.  Need to get the Fiance out there and take a measurement. I've watched the pro youtube vids on setup, with the 150lb rider with gear lol, doubt he's italian!

[Crapflinger]

your basic idea isn't flawed. you should be able to just lower the forks a bit in the tree and be fine.

that said, if you CAN get away without lowering the bike....you should. you'll gain a lot in the woods learning how to ride a tall bike correctly. lowering it loses ground clearance (obviously) which isn't great

as far as the suspension is concerned with regards to upgrades and what not. it is set up for a very light rider and for basic commuter style riding so....the stock suspension is great if you  meet those criteria. if you're fatter, taller, or like to ride harder, not so much.

if you're after moderate trail riding/fire roads/commuting, then you can get away with a much cheaper suspension upgrade (I have a combikit from hyperpro, replaces the fork spring and fork oil with a progressive spring and the rear spring with a progressive spring sized for the rider's weight. doesn't change compression or rebound or anything. the whole kit was $300 and took maybe an afternoon to install both ends)

if you want to get crazy on the thing, then the racetech front and rear seems to be the consensus...but that's like $1200 or so

 

[Patrick Terrana]

On 5/11/2020 at 1:31 PM, Crapflinger said:

your basic idea isn't flawed. you should be able to just lower the forks a bit in the tree and be fine.

that said, if you CAN get away without lowering the bike....you should. you'll gain a lot in the woods learning how to ride a tall bike correctly. lowering it loses ground clearance (obviously) which isn't great

as far as the suspension is concerned with regards to upgrades and what not. it is set up for a very light rider and for basic commuter style riding so....the stock suspension is great if you  meet those criteria. if you're fatter, taller, or like to ride harder, not so much.

if you're after moderate trail riding/fire roads/commuting, then you can get away with a much cheaper suspension upgrade (I have a combikit from hyperpro, replaces the fork spring and fork oil with a progressive spring and the rear spring with a progressive spring sized for the rider's weight. doesn't change compression or rebound or anything. the whole kit was $300 and took maybe an afternoon to install both ends)

if you want to get crazy on the thing, then the racetech front and rear seems to be the consensus...but that's like $1200 or so

 

I'm honestly wondering If after I put the seat on I will be able to get used to it for a while. Adjusting up the preload seemed to have shifted a lot to the front, so I feel like its 50/50 front/rear sag instead of 30/70. If I go around the dirt road on the outside of the cemetery, and hit a 3" pot hole about 8mph, about the closest I've gotten to off roading this thing. I live in NY state where theres not really anything for public trails for any type of motorized vehicle. But if you're a hiking hippie, theres 10k miles hahaha!

[Crapflinger]

my personal opinion (for what it's worth...which probably ain't much). you should ride the bike as is a lot more before making any drastic changes.

you'll get a better feel for how YOU want to ride the thing and that will give you a better idea of what YOU want to change on the thing.

all of my short friends say that learning how to ride a tall bike correctly really is the way to go. as long as you're not so short that you're unsafe. sounds like you can fairly easily get a foot down so I don't think you're in the unsafe territory. the extra ground clearance makes a world of difference off road. nothing worse than getting thrown off the bike because of a rock or a stick or a root that wouldn't have been a problem if you hadn't removed 2 inches from the clearance. I'm 5'8" - 5'9" (30" inseam which is the part that matters) 250lbs so we're roughly the same. I don't have any problems with the seat height (I replaced the seat with a seat concepts seat that's better than stock, but not shorter. actually ends up being a little taller because the foam is stiffer) or reaching the ground when I need to.

there are a billion and a half mods to do on the 250l, but, almost none of them are free. it would suck to invest a bunch of money in modifications to the bike for you to later realize you don't really want to ride a motorcycle, or you don't really ever go off road and you should have gotten a different bike, or you don't really go off road much but you still like the style of the CRF and you should have invested your money in a SUMO setup instead of setting it up for dirt.

a lot of the SUPER basic mods that are free are about air management. like pulling the snorkel out of the airbox. (some people cut  holes in the airbox...but I do too many river crossings to go that route). you can remove the restrictor plate off of the air filter (or get a better flowing air filter). after that, the free stuff is all about removing as much weight as possible. assuming you don't live in a state that does inspections (and...I'm not sure but you might still pass inspection without it), you can remove the EVAP canister and the PAIR valve (PAIR valve isn't super necessary to remove, but, without the EVAP can it's kind of pointless) and save 8-10 lbs. you can cut down the rear fender if you want to get crazy and that will surprisingly save another 10 or so lbs.

replacing the exhaust is a great way to save weight (people will argue that putting on a full exhaust immediately gives you more horsepower...I disagree. it's mostly cutting the exhaust weight in half or more).

suspension is....a shit show as far as everyone's advice. there's a bunch of options, none of them are necessarily the best depending on how you're calculating it.

for $300 you can get the combikit like I did and definitely improve the performance for pretty much every average rider that's using the bike to commute on the regular and do moderate off road stuff (I haven't had more than 2 or 3 issues that I could attribute directly to the suspension after the upgrade and it's mostly that the rebound in the rear isn't adjustable...you just have to learn how to compensate)

a bit more you can replace the full rear with an ohlins, racetech, YSS, whatever and get more adjustment and better spring rates and all that jazz and it'll be a lot better off road.

you can go full bonkers and get the full racetech setup front and rear (accepted as the gold standard for this bike). but...that whole thing is like $1,200 or so....and I would assume you spent between $3 and $5k for the bike. so...that's like 24% the cost of the motorcycle. is it going to be 24% better of a bike? ¯\_(ツ)_/¯ depends on your usage.

I've got the bill blue 305 kit, and that has made all the difference in the world to me on the bike. a lot more usable power for my usage for less than $1k. reasonably easy to install.

changing the gearing is easy and cheap. even simply dropping the front sprocket down to 13t makes a noticeable change in torque delivery

 

that's a lot of stuff to say, get a feel for the bike, get a reasonable idea about how YOU want to use the bike before you make any drastic changes.

[Budlite]

This bike is already lowered by about 3" compared to a competition dirt bike. If you were racing I'd say trade it in on a real competition bike but you more than likely are just riding.  Set the rear sag to recommended specs in your manual and just ride it. Don't try to make it into something it isn't. If you need more bike for next year then get a more aggressive bike.  Those links that lower a rear end substantially require new springs and a revalve.  Stay away from them unless you are willing to spend a lot of time and money setting up suspension.  There's  a reason the more expensive links also come with the knuckle. You don't need them on this bike.  This is a fun bike not a race bike. Go have fun on it.

[kdxyardsale]

13 hours ago, Budlite said:

Those links that lower a rear end substantially require new springs and a revalve.

Not true for all models without very significant drop links, 2012KLX250 with KLX3 links requires no springs or revalving, best to check with Koubalinks on each model and drop amount. My suspension is very good with those KLX3 links and stock suspension.

[kyss meg bak]

Listen to Crapflinger, he actually has the same bike and understand what you want and what you have better than the other guys. I'm not saying their opinion isn't valid, but they don't understand the bike as well.

I also have a CRF250L. I wouldn't do the lowering link, I've read it messes up the geometry on this bike. Honda laid out the bike to handle pretty well. I would ride it as is for now, I'd bet you will get used to the height. If you can get the balls of your feet on the ground, you should be doing pretty good.

The best advice I could give is spend your money on gas and ride it for awhile.

If after awhile you still want to lower it go the internal route like you have discussed with Ohlins. They do good work.

[Budlite]

2 hours ago, kdxyardsale said:

Not true for all models without very significant drop links, 2012KLX250 with KLX3 links requires no springs or revalving, best to check with Koubalinks on each model and drop amount. My suspension is very good with those KLX3 links and stock suspension.

if it doesn't have significant drop then its not much of a lowering link......there are many links out there from companies that only provide a small lowering or raising. I don't consider these to be actual lowering link. If you get 1 1/2" or more the knuckle will be rotated and the leverage ratio dramatically changed.

[kdxyardsale]

11 hours ago, Budlite said:

if it doesn't have significant drop then its not much of a lowering link......there are many links out there from companies that only provide a small lowering or raising. I don't consider these to be actual lowering link. If you get 1 1/2" or more the knuckle will be rotated and the leverage ratio dramatically changed.

Agreed massive lowering is a problem that is a whole redesign. However 1" lowering links are underestimated in the end result for the short rider. There are thousands of people using them, whether you consider them lowering links or not this is my end result with just 1" lowering links. Bike behaves absolutely normal. A picture is worth a thousand words. If only people would listen...

[MaxPower]

I feel if I were 5'6" that I would set the bike up with the right spring rate. You don't NEED ohlins. They are top quality. If you want them then that's different . It will be a trick CRFL

I'd send my suspension to Noleen or Race Tech. Have them valve and spring the stock units. 

At 5'6" you aren't where you would want to lower the suspension.  Rick Carmichael was 5'6". 

In my opinion is screws with the bikes geometry of how it was designed.  

But, I'm not riding your bike. So if you want to shorten the travel those companies can do the right thing.

Having your suspension set for you is one of the best ways to enjoy your bike the most. They build that bike to accommodate many thousands of riders all over the world.  

 

Edited May 27, 2020 by MaxPower

[Marco the Pool Boy]

If you want it done right send both the forks and shock to a professional suspension for tune and during the required re-spring have the units internally shortened with valving. 
THIS IS the only proper way to lower a bike especially for your weight, period. 
‘I’ve done a few complete suspension setups for folks. 
 

Friends don’t let friends use Kouba links, just saying. Over 80% of people that buy them either sell them or the bike within 3k miles.....

All Moto Performance Does this kind of work daily for very fair prices, he’s helped a few friends with a solid reputation      aaron@allmotoperformance.com   406-351-1633

 

Many future dual sport riders are always happier having it done right the first time.

Enjoy!!

[kdxyardsale]

10 hours ago, Mark-us-B said:

Friends don’t let friends use Kouba links

Thousands of us use them, me personally on two bikes, still on my dual sport (5K miles and counting), they work flawlessly if done correctly. The staff are very knowledgable and do not advise people of extreme modification. Promoting one business you like while disparaging another reputable business because of your opinion is not what TT is about. 

[Marco the Pool Boy]

1 hour ago, kdxyardsale said:

Thousands of us use them, me personally on two bikes, still on my dual sport (5K miles and counting), they work flawlessly if done correctly. The staff are very knowledgable and do not advise people of extreme modification. Promoting one business you like while disparaging another reputable business because of your opinion is not what TT is about. 

You are the one of the 20% I spoke off. Some people like them, bout 20% that buy ‘em......
There’s many many businesses that do it right, AMP is only one of 20 +/- professionals here in the USA that can be trusted to do a job correctly 

I personally watched a somewhat new rider crash his bike 4 times 3 weeks ago in one short ride off-road ride all because he installed a 1-5/8” Kouba link on the rear of the bike and lowered the front as far as he could, 1/2” the entirely screwed up geometry made his bike handle like a total “piece of s*^#!” Crap, he crashed in a straight line. BTW, that rider is now selling his fancy F-ed up bike because he believes it’s all the bikes fault, not the Kouba device that screwed his bike geometry in the first place. 

It should be remembered that the OP here was looking towards OHLINS in his first post. The average Rear OHLINS shock is $1000.00 The average total front and rear completely custom built suspension can be $650.00

Bottom line, He (OP) can do the job right, or bandaid with a link and he still needs springs and what the heck is he supposed to do with the forks? That bike was designed for a 165-180 pound person, think about....... Just sayin!

[kdxyardsale]

22 hours ago, Mark-us-B said:

Kouba device that screwed his bike geometry in the first place. 

More likely a newer rider unaware of what he is changing, setting sag, adjusting clickers, preload, fork oil, etc. A somewhat new rider doesn't have 35+ years of wrenching. Possibly even his amateur riding. The best advice the OP could get is to buy a different bike. A straight line crash after suspension work is more likely over torquing linkages.

Edited June 4, 2020 by kdxyardsale