Jump to content

Starting while in gear with the clutch in


Recommended Posts

Hello Everyone,

I am new to the forum and recently bought a Beta 300RR. The question I have is whether or not it is bad on the bike to start it while in gear with the clutch in. When I do so it seems pull, just the slightest amount, when I first engage the starter. Is this normal, do I need to adjust the clutch, or always start the bike in neutral? The is my first bike with a hydraulic clutch, so I’m not sure what the norm is. Thanks in advance! Looking forward to being a part of the Beta thread 

90F54D6C-BC39-4808-8996-674A35B029C9.jpeg

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

All dirt bike clutches drag to some extent.

If it does not do it much when hot, your clutch is normal.

If it does, you probably need to service the clutch hydraulics, or check the clutch pack for excessive wear.

Usually fresh oil and a proper bleed is all you need. The Beta clutches are extremely long lasting.

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

All dirt bike clutches drag to some extent.
If it does not do it much when hot, your clutch is normal.
If it does, you probably need to service the clutch hydraulics, or check the clutch pack for excessive wear.
Usually fresh oil and a proper bleed is all you need. The Beta clutches are extremely long lasting.

Thanks, the bike is brand new. I have only put about 2 hours on it breaking it in yesterday. It doesn’t do it much at all, but you can feel it a little bit when I first hit the electric start button. I figured it was fine, just better safe than sorry. I figured I didn’t have to put it in neutral every time. That would be a huge pain on the trails.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

This is normal.  As a matter of fact, my clutch will drag until my bike is well into operating temperatures.  And after over 40 hours on my 2019 300rr, I still can't seem to find neutral when my bike is running!!

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

AFAIK all estart bikes have a safety switch on the clutch lever that requires the clutch lever to be in for estart to work, so the mfg anticipate starting in gear. When trail riding I usually park my bikes in gear so they can't roll off the side stand, I then restart them in gear, either estart or kicker.  One problem with starting in gear is clutch drag, and drag can be quite high with a cold engine that has been in storage for a few days. The cold oil causes drag and/or the clutch plates may stick together, which the OP sensed with the initial jerk when starting. 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, Chuck. said:

AFAIK all estart bikes have a safety switch on the clutch lever that requires the clutch lever to be in for estart to work, so the mfg anticipate starting in gear. When trail riding I usually park my bikes in gear so they can't roll off the side stand, I then restart them in gear, either estart or kicker.  One problem with starting in gear is clutch drag, and drag can be quite high with a cold engine that has been in storage for a few days. The cold oil causes drag and/or the clutch plates may stick together, which the OP sensed with the initial jerk when starting. 

That’s all Japanese bikes. Beta’s and other EURO bikes (as far as I know) don’t have that safety switch. 

As many others have stated a little drag is normal. While I always ride with one finger on the clutch I use my whole hand and pull the lever all the way into the bar when starting a bike in gear. 

  • Like 4
Link to comment
Share on other sites

4 hours ago, Chuck. said:

so the mfg anticipate starting in gear

I think it's for safety IN CASE the bike is in gear.

6 hours ago, MIZZOUTrailDoctor said:

Is this normal, do I need to adjust the clutch, or always start the bike in neutral?

Mine was dragging just a little more than I thought it should. Turning the knob on the clutch lever a click or two fixed it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

4 hours ago, Chuck. said:

AFAIK all estart bikes have a safety switch on the clutch lever that requires the clutch lever to be in for estart to work, so the mfg anticipate starting in gear. When trail riding I usually park my bikes in gear so they can't roll off the side stand, I then restart them in gear, either estart or kicker.  One problem with starting in gear is clutch drag, and drag can be quite high with a cold engine that has been in storage for a few days. The cold oil causes drag and/or the clutch plates may stick together, which the OP sensed with the initial jerk when starting. 

The beta will start in gear without the clutch engaged.  Ask me how I know.

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

8 hours ago, MIZZOUTrailDoctor said:

Hello Everyone,

I am new to the forum and recently bought a Beta 300RR. The question I have is whether or not it is bad on the bike to start it while in gear with the clutch in. When I do so it seems pull, just the slightest amount, when I first engage the starter. Is this normal, do I need to adjust the clutch, or always start the bike in neutral? The is my first bike with a hydraulic clutch, so I’m not sure what the norm is. Thanks in advance! Looking forward to being a part of the Beta thread 

90F54D6C-BC39-4808-8996-674A35B029C9.jpeg

MAN that sure is a PURTY BYKE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 6/21/2019 at 11:47 AM, Cullins said:

That’s all Japanese bikes. Beta’s and other EURO bikes (as far as I know) don’t have that safety switch. 

As many others have stated a little drag is normal. While I always ride with one finger on the clutch I use my whole hand and pull the lever all the way into the bar when starting a bike in gear. 

This is true.  Don't ask me how I know . . .

Link to comment
Share on other sites

While we're talking about electric starts, if you hear a squeal from your starter motor investigate promptly. Thats not the squeal you hear on disengagement as the engine starts, its a squeal as soon as you hit the estart button. @350 hours my starter motor magnets let go. 4 of the 6 of them had the glue fail, and they had all moved around pushing on the remaining 2 still glued in place. Starter motor still worked, but slowly. I investigated quickly and saved the commutator from damage, but put in a new motor anyway, (USD 160ish). Now my starter has never been worked hard. Motor always fires up in one or two revolutions of the engine. But the glue still failed. I am going to investigate a good glue and repair to have it as a spare.

Oh, and the entire engine has to come out. Much easier to do the job if you admit failure to get it out in the frame and just do this from the start!  

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...