Rear caliper cooler

[bobbyward]

Anyone know someone that makes one that will fit a 04 yz 250 ? Or a oversized rear rotor. No matter what I do I still over heat my brakes, using high heat fluids that are fresh etc, on going battle, yes I like to drag my brakes.

[smez]

Anyone know someone that makes one that will fit a 04 yz 250 ? Or a oversized rear rotor. No matter what I do I still over heat my brakes, using high heat fluids that are fresh etc, on going battle, yes I like to drag my brakes.

http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com/13515/i/lightspeed-performance-rear-caliper-guard-with-air-scoop

[YZJ]

What kind of fluid you running?

[rpt50]

As a life long brake dragger, here is what I do on all my bikes:

1. replace pads often, and use carbon pads for the bikes with the worst problems.  Thick pads take a lot more heat before things go south.  I buy the $9 neutron pads for my two YZ bikes (rocky mountain) or Tusk carbon (rocky mountain) for the severe cases (like my old Suzuki and current KTM).  Always new pads for a race.  Carbon pads don't have the "feel" of sintered pads, but they do take heat better.  Try new sintered pads first, along with below...

2. Replace stock rotor with Tusk rotor as soon as you warp the stocker (takes me about 2-3 rides, or one race).  It's cheap, thick, and takes heat well.

3. Run brake lever low to cut down on inadvertent dragging.  On YZs you may have to grind a little of the end off the push arm for the master cylinder to get it low enough.  

4. Make sure your boot works well with the lever.  My ankles just don't flex like they used to, and combined with some boots, it really exacerbates the dragging problem.  Hinged boots, or boots with a very flexible ankle, work best.  For example, I can't even ride in alpinestar boots, but all hinged boots have worked well for me, and lately I've been favoring fox boots (very flexible in the ankle).

5. Replace fluid often.  I have never tried any "fancy" fluids.  DOT 4 has worked fine with the steps above.

 

Good luck!

[numroe]

As a life long brake dragger, here is what I do on all my bikes ...

Good advice. You really do load up the rear brake! So you've never tried an air scoop? I've often thought about a scoop. Very ugly things!

Mine overheated once - when I let a friend ride it for 10 minutes. He has his toe on the rear brake all the time. I guess he holds the throttle steady and uses the rear brake to modulate the power. Fully boiled the fluid.

The only time I find mine gets really hot is if I'm riding a sand track and coming into fast bump corners at decent pace. To take the turn I need the rear brake on and throttle partly open for a long time in and through the corner. It makes the rear tire feel connected. The caliper gets really hot, but it'll last 20 minutes which is enough for me.

Edited December 9, 2015 by numroe

[bobbyward]

Racing tight single track I can make about 4-5 miles and no brakes, I run the highest temp fuild and flush each race, I have a néw rotor I'm going to install, running factory pads or ebc pads with heat shields etc, just gets old using up your rear brakes before the test sections are over. I do need to trim the bolt on the master cyl some since I recently lowered/off set my pegs.

[SmokinJoe90]

Simple answer stop excessively dragging your brake. Your bad habit is in your riding style to toast your brake like that your using it too much seriously are you riding the whole time with it engaged.

No little air duct or oversized rotor is going to fix improper over use of the brake. Do you even use your front brake?

[baddos]

Think about the HP you're losing!

 

You can't just adjust your brake peddle height to accommodate your boot position?

[bobbyward]

Well when the straight away are about 2 ft long it's makes it hard to stop without a back brake, yes I use the front brakes also.

[BRM]

Racing tight single track I can make about 4-5 miles and no brakes, I run the highest temp fuild and flush each race, I have a néw rotor I'm going to install, running factory pads or ebc pads with heat shields etc, just gets old using up your rear brakes before the test sections are over. I do need to trim the bolt on the master cyl some since I recently lowered/off set my pegs.

I was going to say lower the brake pedal height.

[rpt50]

Are you sure you are not getting extra drag by running the stock heat shields? Aftermarket pads, like EBC pads, are designed to run without heat shields.

[bobbyward]

With a 295 there is no power issues, lol ! Ran with and without heat shields, couldn't tell any difference. Done everything I can think of short of getting a different bike .

[smez]

Stainless braided lines?

[bobbyward]

Braided line, just wonder if removing my factory disc guard would help on heat ?

[E36M3E]

Did you try Motul RBF600 brake fluid. It has the highest boiling point of any fluid readily available I've ever found. I used to run it in M3 in autocross races. Lots of brake at low speed so lots of potential for boiling. I boiled a lot of fluids but never that one.

Very expensive stuff when you're puttin it into a car brake system. Dirt bike wouldn't be so bad though.

[GHILL28]

Drill breather holes in the caliper.

[Jimmy boy]

Did you try Motul RBF600 brake fluid. It has the highest boiling point of any fluid readily available I've ever found. I used to run it in M3 in autocross races. Lots of brake at low speed so lots of potential for boiling. I boiled a lot of fluids but never that one.

Very expensive stuff when you're puttin it into a car brake system. Dirt bike wouldn't be so bad though.

+1

[bobbyward]

I boil it too, Motul is what I run, thinking my rotor might be warped enough it doesn't come off the pads enough. At a loss for my cure, first bike ever to have brake problems I couldn't fix.

[YZJ]

Have you rebuilt/greased the caliper lately?

[bobbyward]

Rebuilt caliper and master cyl with yamaha parts.