Warrior 350 problems

[Reactant]

Just got a '95 Warrior with the frame green and the rest black, it looks sweet. And it's pretty much in perfect condition besides needs a pair of back tires, needs the front brakes cleaned up, and (...) it won't start :/. Just cranks and cranks but won't fire. Thinking about getting a new stator in it, but I think it might be a mixture problem. When I punch the throttle, it falls on its face and when I'm revved high and I pull the clutch it, it backfires while it's revving back down. Any ideas? Thanks in advance.

[jjktmrider]

Backfiring is a sign of lean mixture. Hard starting is also and the falling flat when giving it throttle. Take the carb apart and clean good. If it has any mods done it may need to be jetted richer.

[Reactant]

Backfiring is a sign of lean mixture. Hard starting is also and the falling flat when giving it throttle. Take the carb apart and clean good. If it has any mods done it may need to be jetted richer.

Has a K&N filter & White Bros slip-on. Took the carb off and it's in great condition, could easily see/ blow through all the jets. Took off the plug and it was black as can be, not getting spark out of it tho. So I'll go ahead and just buy a new plug before getting jets.

[Reactant]

This is where I am. Tried a new plug and still no spark. So, took off the stator case. Anyone know how to test it/ the pick-up coil? And would I need to test the ignition coil? Thanks for the help.

[jjktmrider]

You need a multi meter and test the resistance between each wire. For testing the stator it's also a certain resistance between the three white wires, but if the battery is charging it won't be a stator issue.. You need a service manual for the numbers and the setting on the multi meter. I have both the adult Raptors and XT's manuals , not the Warrior though.

Edited July 19, 2015 by jjktmrider

[Reactant]

You need a multi meter and test the resistance between each wire. For testing the stator it's also a certain resistance between the three white wires, but if the battery is charging it won't be a stator issue.. You need a service manual for the numbers and the setting on the multi meter. I have both the adult Raptors and XT's manuals , not the Warrior though.

Thanks for the insight. I found the numbers somewhere and this is what I got.

Source coil (red to green/white) - spec is 270-330, I got 313

Pickup coil (yellow to blue) - spec is 180-220, I got OPEN

Charging coil (any combo of the 3 white wires) - spec is .7-.86, I got 1.6 in any 3 combos

Pickup coil is being shipped via rmstator currently, will the charging coil (stator?) cause problems with being a little high, too?

[jjktmrider]

No it shouldn't , your's has an even ready across all three phases so no worries. It's when 1 is a ways off from the other 2 that's hard on other things. The pick-up should take care of your issue then, not much goes wrong on those quads, not the most powerful motors but they just go and go and go , I wish Yamaha would've brought that 6 speed tranny to the other Raptors, makes gearing options and uses unbelievably wide. Might have actually kept my 700 for more than a year, hated the spacing in the gears.

Edited July 19, 2015 by jjktmrider

[Reactant]

Ok now I'm frustrated...new coil in and still the same problem. Readings from the connector are all good. Is there any way to tell which wire should go to which? I have a blue & a green wire coming from the new coil, and don't know which wire goes to the other corresponding stock wire. Would the wires being switched cause the same problem?

[jjktmrider]

It could , I've never changed one that had different colors so never switched them. I'd try it  at least.  

[Reactant]

It could , I've never changed one that had different colors so never switched them. I'd try it at least.

Alright, I'll try it. Is there any way I can check it easily so I don't have to take the cover off again if I don't need to?

[jjktmrider]

If you cut the 2 wires outside the cover you should be able to swap them without taking the cover off. There shouldn't be a connection inside. Some of the Yamaha manuals I have show the Blue/yellow stripe wire as the positive one. I believe if you put a voltage tester in that connector when trying to start you should see some juice there,each time the coil is triggered by the flywheel you should see a pulse coming back on the other.

Edited July 27, 2015 by jjktmrider

[Reactant]

If you cut the 2 wires outside the cover you should be able to swap them without taking the cover off. There shouldn't be a connection inside. Some of the Yamaha manuals I have show the Blue/yellow stripe wire as the positive one. I believe if you put a voltage tester in that connector when trying to start you should see some juice there,each time the coil is triggered by the flywheel you should see a pulse coming back on the other.

Already have the case off, gonna switch the wires.

[Reactant]

Switched the wires and WOW! Fired right up! Now to switch out that mix-n-match oil for Rotella.

[jjktmrider]

Sorry to say this but you really shouldn't use Rotella, it is an auto oil NOT a wet clutch oil . I know many swear by it and it is a good oil but it's for motors not wet clutches and transmission gears like are in the Warrior. Last year I switched over to it in 4 of my bikes ,thinking I'd give the stuff a try since so many claim its so good. ALL four developed hard clutching, sticky/notchy, and were much harder to get into neutral. 2 of them were absolutely miserable for increased lever pull and impossible to get into neutral, I had to shut the motor off usually. The hotter the motor got, the worse they got, not too bad when cold. All issues went away shortly after going back to my normal atv/motorcycle oils. Just my suggestion. You can try it , I don't think you'll harm anything, just watch for what I described.

[Reactant]

Sorry to say this but you really shouldn't use Rotella, it is an auto oil NOT a wet clutch oil . I know many swear by it and it is a good oil but it's for motors not wet clutches and transmission gears like are in the Warrior. Last year I switched over to it in 4 of my bikes ,thinking I'd give the stuff a try since so many claim its so good. ALL four developed hard clutching, sticky/notchy, and were much harder to get into neutral. 2 of them were absolutely miserable for increased lever pull and impossible to get into neutral, I had to shut the motor off usually. The hotter the motor got, the worse they got, not too bad when cold. All issues went away shortly after going back to my normal atv/motorcycle oils. Just my suggestion. You can try it , I don't think you'll harm anything, just watch for what I described.

Will do. I was suspicious about Rotella from the get-go, but I used the normal white-bottle 10w-40 Valvoline in my LT230S (the quad before my Warrior) and never had problems. The last oil change I did on the ol' 230 before I sold 'er to get the Warrior was with Valvoline's ATV oil, and I didn't notice a significant difference after spending all day trail-breaking with it. I haven't had the Warrior long enough to change the oil yet, so I'll see how this gallon of Rotella does, then go pick up some special oil if I see any problems. Do they sell ATV/ Motorcycle oil in large quantities (gallon or so) at Walmart?

[jjktmrider]

I've gotten Yamalube by the gallon, it's a little more than maybe Valvolene atv or Mobil 1 atv/motorcycle. Any auto oil that has "energy conserving " mostly is the stuff that has additives or moly that are bad for clutches. The atv/motorcycle rated oil have friction additives made to help clutched not slip. The other thing is the gears in transmissions by meshing together tend to shear the molecules in oil that then break it down and it losses lubricity and viscocity. Lets just say there is a general reason for the stuff . If a person changes oil and filters regularly and not at long intervals, it's not as big a deal.

[Reactant]

Dang...30 bucks/ gal. The Valvoline 10w-40 ATV oil was 6 bucks/ quart. Is that stuff good?

[jjktmrider]

Here , https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p/2941/19671/Yamalube-All-Purpose-4-Stroke-Oil, 20-50 for summer , 10-40w winter , $19 per gal.

 

The valvolene would be fine , I've used Mobile also but I think they only have synthetic now. No real "need" for synthetic in this case , not racing or, I assume, constant high rpm use and high temperature running that synthetics can handle better. Some things I keep in mind when deciding whether to run it, faster cold start flow, even more pronounced in winter, synthetic doesn't thicken up like conventional so every area of an engine gets oil faster. High temp breakdown resistant, longer change intervals(I go 9k miles in my truck, have it tested in a lab for condition), lab designed specifically for the use so no unnecessary additives ,higher shear breakdown resistance. But again just standard use trail riding, not that important, except maybe winter if stored out in the cold, then I would .

Edited July 29, 2015 by jjktmrider

[DBargs96_2strokes4life]

Check for a spark and check the timing because that might be why it backfired. That and a shot of starting fluid if you get spark if it runs and cuts off its a carb problem. But start with the spark.

[DBargs96_2strokes4life]

You need a multi meter and test the resistance between each wire. For testing the stator it's also a certain resistance between the three white wires, but if the battery is charging it won't be a stator issue.. You need a service manual for the numbers and the setting on the multi meter. I have both the adult Raptors and XT's manuals , not the Warrior though.

Edited August 23, 2015 by DBargs96_2strokes4life