Gear down XT250

[bigbucks1234]

I recently picked up a 2009 XT250. It has the OEM 15T front sprocket,a 48T rear, and a 428 chain.

 

I am trying to gear it down with a 13T front, or even a combo smaller front and larger rear. All I can find is a 16T front. No little sprockets available it seems. The XT225 sems to have several options, but not the 250. I'm open to all suggestions. Any ideas to get it geared down. I'm not concerned however it may effect the speedo,I just want to make sure I don't over do it and hurt the tranmission.

 

Before anyone asks, I will be riding some pretty steep mountin trails and I'm a bit of a rookie rider (only a couple of yrs).  I want it geared way down so it's a crawler in 1st/2nd gear.

[pd350]

Increase the rear sprocket size . About 4 teeth increase - rear sprocket  equal 1 tooth down - drive sprocket  

[rwulf]

Go to www.motorcyclesuperstore.com seems they have Jp sprockets

Ph#  877-668-6872

[wwguy]

Several rear sprocket options here at JT Sprockets.  I purchased mine on Amazon.

 

Stock chain is 128 links.  You'll probably need a new longer chain if you go big on the rear sprocket.

 

I geared down from stock 13/43 sprockets on my WR250R to 13/51 and love it for mountain trail riding in Idaho.

[NoBs]

 

 Not sure if you're still around but I wanted to do basically the same thing.  Had a heck of a time locating a 14T front sprocket to start with, no JP available.  I did find a 14T by Fritz Inc. They also have a 13T if needed.   The 14T should be coming on Monday and I'm curious what it will do for the low end but also if it makes a noticeable difference in highway speeds of around 55 Mph..   If you're still around let me know how you made out with your mod..

[once on a 50]

Saw this on another site, quite a tool: https://www.gearingcommander.com/

[NoBs]

27 minutes ago, once on a 50 said:

Saw this on another site, quite a tool: https://www.gearingcommander.com/

Yeah, I saw it when I was ordering the 14T sprocket.  Sure tells you a lot of info except...  how it feels in the seat of your pants.  Just put 20 miles on mine today, about ten on the road and 10 off..  Bike's fine under 55mph, over 60 over so much.  That's with the stock 15T...  got the 14T today, curious to see what it does in the dirt. Hope it narrows that gap between 1st and second gear.   Probably drop that nice ride feeling to 50 or so on the street. 

[Slo_n_easy]

On 3/24/2020 at 4:40 PM, NoBs said:

Yeah, I saw it when I was ordering the 14T sprocket.  Sure tells you a lot of info except...  how it feels in the seat of your pants.  Just put 20 miles on mine today, about ten on the road and 10 off..  Bike's fine under 55mph, over 60 over so much.  That's with the stock 15T...  got the 14T today, curious to see what it does in the dirt. Hope it narrows that gap between 1st and second gear.   Probably drop that nice ride feeling to 50 or so on the street. 

Just brought an XT250 home today so I'm looking forward to your thoughts on the sprocket change!  I definitely want to gear mine down as well since I mostly ride trails and back roads.

[NoBs]

Just got the sprocket this afternoon..   Rain forecasted the next couple of days.  I ordered a 428 masterlink  in case I need it.  For one tooth I don't think so..  A 13T may be a different story.  Took it for a ride today before the rains come, really slick down in my woods with the leaves and wet logs roots etc.   Since its a new bike I don't want to go really crazy on the rpms just yet. Thought I had it wound enough to lift the front end over a couple of smaller logs less than a foot but the darn thing doesn't want to co-operate.  

  I will be putting it on during the rain days.  I also have wide pegs coming  that should be here by Saturday.  All told, less than $ 100 for the sprocket, handlebar risers and wider footpegs.  Hoping for a more responsive bike in the process with the sprocket..  Right now its a nice trail bike albeit needing a lower second gear which the sprocket should help.

Not sure where you live but if it's really a challenge in the Mts, perhaps a 13 is what you may want to consider.  There's a few decent ascents here in Ne Pa and I always geared my bikes down a tooth in the front and did really well with them.  Had a 400cc CZ new back in 1975 and that thing was a monster going up hills..  I went down one with that as well..

[Slo_n_easy]

2 hours ago, NoBs said:

Just got the sprocket this afternoon..   Rain forecasted the next couple of days.  I ordered a 428 masterlink  in case I need it.  For one tooth I don't think so..  A 13T may be a different story.  Took it for a ride today before the rains come, really slick down in my woods with the leaves and wet logs roots etc.   Since its a new bike I don't want to go really crazy on the rpms just yet. Thought I had it wound enough to lift the front end over a couple of smaller logs less than a foot but the darn thing doesn't want to co-operate.  

  I will be putting it on during the rain days.  I also have wide pegs coming  that should be here by Saturday.  All told, less than $ 100 for the sprocket, handlebar risers and wider footpegs.  Hoping for a more responsive bike in the process with the sprocket..  Right now its a nice trail bike albeit needing a lower second gear which the sprocket should help.

Not sure where you live but if it's really a challenge in the Mts, perhaps a 13 is what you may want to consider.  There's a few decent ascents here in Ne Pa and I always geared my bikes down a tooth in the front and did really well with them.  Had a 400cc CZ new back in 1975 and that thing was a monster going up hills..  I went down one with that as well..

I'm actually in NW PA.  The hills aren't too bad, but like you said, the lower gears could stand to be a little lower.  In tight trails, I'd like first gear to be low enough that I'm not constantly feathering the clutch.  Second gear can also use more snap. Can't wait to hear how the 14 works for you so I can choose between a 13 and 14.  Or maybe a 14 and add a couple teeth on the rear? 

Looks like we have the same thoughts on gearing, handlebar height (definitely want to buy higher bars or risers) and pegs.  Who did you buy from? I'll have to check into all of that!  

Edited March 27, 2020 by Slo_n_easy

[NoBs]

12 hours ago, Slo_n_easy said:

I'm actually in NW PA.  The hills aren't too bad, but like you said, the lower gears could stand to be a little lower.  In tight trails, I'd like first gear to be low enough that I'm not constantly feathering the clutch.  Second gear can also use more snap. Can't wait to hear how the 14 works for you so I can choose between a 13 and 14.  Or maybe a 14 and add a couple teeth on the rear? 

Looks like we have the same thoughts on gearing, handlebar height (definitely want to buy higher bars or risers) and pegs.  Who did you buy from? I'll have to check into all of that!  

With the 14T I'm not expecting to use the clutch at all in first gear at less than walking speed.  If it doesn't, the 13T should definitely do it and it's only around $ 20 to find out.  Rear sprockets are more costly but if it needs to go lower that's really your only other option.  Going with both front and rear may gear it so low that street use would be really limited.  But I'd be surprised if the 13T  didn't do it for you. The 13T may require breaking the chain and taking a link out.  The key is to have enough power when you need it ..  For example, around a sharp tight tree turn and immediately afterward a steep uphill while you're still finishing the turn without feathering the clutch ( unless you really need to )   I bought the sprocket on Ebay ( Fritz Co Inc ) and the risers and foot pegs on Amazon.  The risers were 1.6 inch and did not require me to alter the cables.  The risers were Nevermore or something like that and the pegs Krator.  The risers enabled me to have a bit of bent elbow instead of straight elbows. When installing, just lift up on the bars and slide them in sideways.  You may have to put some tension on the cables ( carefully ) to get them to co-operate.  After install, I'd start it in neutral and move the bars side to side ( lock to lock ) several times to make sure there isn't an issue. To me those 3 items were the most for the least as they say.  I'd have to see some dyno data before I'd invest in a several hundred dollar pipe and electronic power commanders etc..  Wouldn't mind a deeper tone but not at the expense of more noise.  This is a good trail bike that can be improved very simply and inexpensively as noted by the changes I did..  At least IMHO.   To expect much more, you might as well look for another bike. 

***  I may also lower the forks a tad and adjust the preload in the rear.  It still feels high even though I can touch both feet flatfooted.  I think part of that is the weight.  While lighter by duel sport bikes, this is considerably heavier than the 2 stroke bikes I have run all my life, even my CZ 400 motocross bike. The other is weight distribution.  4 stroke engines tend to have the weight higher up than 2 strokes..   

[Slo_n_easy]

40 minutes ago, NoBs said:

With the 14T I'm not expecting to use the clutch at all in first gear at less than walking speed.  If it doesn't, the 13T should definitely do it and it's only around $ 20 to find out.  Rear sprockets are more costly but if it needs to go lower that's really your only other option.  Going with both front and rear may gear it so low that street use would be really limited.  But I'd be surprised if the 13T  didn't do it for you. The 13T may require breaking the chain and taking a link out.  The key is to have enough power when you need it ..  For example, around a sharp tight tree turn and immediately afterward a steep uphill while you're still finishing the turn without feathering the clutch ( unless you really need to )   I bought the sprocket on Ebay ( Fritz Co Inc ) and the risers and foot pegs on Amazon.  The risers were 1.6 inch and did not require me to alter the cables.  The risers were Nevermore or something like that and the pegs Krator.  The risers enabled me to have a bit of bent elbow instead of straight elbows. When installing, just lift up on the bars and slide them in sideways.  You may have to put some tension on the cables ( carefully ) to get them to co-operate.  After install, I'd start it in neutral and move the bars side to side ( lock to lock ) several times to make sure there isn't an issue. To me those 3 items were the most for the least as they say.  I'd have to see some dyno data before I'd invest in a several hundred dollar pipe and electronic power commanders etc..  Wouldn't mind a deeper tone but not at the expense of more noise.  This is a good trail bike that can be improved very simply and inexpensively as noted by the changes I did..  At least IMHO.   To expect much more, you might as well look for another bike. 

***  I may also lower the forks a tad and adjust the preload in the rear.  It still feels high even though I can touch both feet flatfooted.  I think part of that is the weight.  While lighter by duel sport bikes, this is considerably heavier than the 2 stroke bikes I have run all my life, even my CZ 400 motocross bike. The other is weight distribution.  4 stroke engines tend to have the weight higher up than 2 strokes..   

Thanks for the product info, I think you're right on with those being the most "bang for your buck" mods.  I also agree with the XT having a heavy feel for a smaller bike, the older 2 stroke dual sports like the Suzuki TS 185 and even my fist bike, the Kawasaki F11 250 were both lighter and more powerful.  Overall, I think I'll be happy with my XT once I do your mods.  BTW, that CZ would be a sweet bike! 

[NoBs]

 I received the foot pegs today.. Gotta say,  they look loads better in person than on the website.  Don't know it its a different peg than what I ordered but I can say  I'm happy with what I see..  They came as a gun metal grey instead of black but looking this good I sure don't mind.  There's always a can of black spray paint around.  There's no sign of it being an inferior cast product, no pot marks etc, just smooth metal all the way around. Paint seems to be an epoxy type and its an even coat all the way around even inside the crevices..  Now if it fits......  

  I have one more item coming and that's a skid plate...  should be here in a week or so..   kind of a must when going over logs and boulders.  That's about all I can think of at the time except fold down mirrors.  I don't need mirrors on the trail but you should have them when you hit the street.  I' m not a style person but the round mirrors do nothing for me.

 

[Slo_n_easy]

1 minute ago, NoBs said:

 I received the foot pegs today.. Gotta say,  they look loads better in person than on the website.  Don't know it its a different peg than what I ordered but I can say  I'm happy with what I see..  They came as a gun metal grey instead of black but looking this good I sure don't mind.  There's always a can of black spray paint around.  There's no sign of it being an inferior cast product, no pot marks etc, just smooth metal all the way around. Paint seems to be an epoxy type and its an even coat all the way around even inside the crevices..  Now if it fits......  

  I have one more item coming and that's a skid plate...  should be here in a week or so..   kind of a must when going over logs and boulders.  That's about all I can think of at the time except fold down mirrors.  I don't need mirrors on the trail but you should have them when you hit the street.  I' m not a style person but the round mirrors do nothing for me.

 

Glad to hear that about the pegs!  I went for a little ride again today and those stock pegs feel tiny.  Can't wait to get those and the smaller front sprocket.... right now 1st gear is way too fast.  Like you said, I want 1st to be slloowww for the technical stuff.  Also, that'll give the other gears help for acceleration.  

[NoBs]

The pegs went on yesterday..    As others have noted, these will require enlarging the large hole on both pegs for the same pin used by the stock peg.  I used a 25/64 inch drill bit and it worked fine.  If you don't have one, remember the hole you drill has to be small enough so the lip on the pin doesn't fall through.  A 3/8th is too small, some guys ream it out to fit the pin but that may be a bit on the labor intensive side but it can be done.  The right side peg required an additional small hole for the straight end of the spring to go in.  The hole they have is on the wrong side, you'll see it right away.  I drilled mine a little smaller just the pin slipped in w/out a hassle.  Look on the left side if you need a guide.  While I used a drill press, a vice and a portable drill will work.  I bounced around on them full weight ( 180 ) one foot peg at a time with no issue.  Total time was a leisurely one hour period.  If you're in a hurry and know exactly what you're doing and what you need you can cut that in half.  The hardest part for me was reinstalling the spring while putting in the pin, probably a good 10 minutes.. Hands and fingers don't co-operate like they used to.  These pegs are almost twice the width of the stock pegs..  They should enhance anyone's balance significantly, especially beginners to mid level riders when standing.  Also great for keeping your feet on the pegs around corners or in the rough stuff.  Probably the best bang for the buck mod for anyone who rides on the trails or hard dirt..

   Today I put the sprocket on...  too rainy to test it.  Uneventful install. You do not need to remove the rear wheel as I see some guys do.  Just loosen the axle nut and push everything forward as far as it will go.  A little finagling and you can slip the stock sprocket off.  The new one will result in a different chain adjustment when you tighten everything up.  One caution, there are ears on a washer that are there to bend over slightly to prevent the sprocket from making its way loose.  No one bent them over for the stock sprocket.  As I attempted to peen them over for the new sprocket one of the ears broke off.  And I didn't tap it that hard..  Since there are two ears it will be ok ( especially since the factory didn't do it at all )  but I'll probably get a new one anyway..   I put the bike on a big floor jack and a 2x12  about a foot long just so the rear wheel was off the ground.  About a half hour.. easy install.  No master link required and no links needed to be removed.  It might be awfully close if a 13T was put in however..  Curious to see how much more quickly the power band comes into play.  Test it tomorrow if it doesn't rain.  Really wet around here.

[Slo_n_easy]

8 minutes ago, NoBs said:

The pegs went on yesterday..    As others have noted, these will require enlarging the large hole on both pegs for the same pin used by the stock peg.  I used a 25/64 inch drill bit and it worked fine.  If you don't have one, remember the hole you drill has to be small enough so the lip on the pin doesn't fall through.  A 3/8th is too small, some guys ream it out to fit the pin but that may be a bit on the labor intensive side but it can be done.  The right side peg required an additional small hole for the straight end of the spring to go in.  The hole they have is on the wrong side, you'll see it right away.  I drilled mine a little smaller just the pin slipped in w/out a hassle.  Look on the left side if you need a guide.  While I used a drill press, a vice and a portable drill will work.  I bounced around on them full weight ( 180 ) one foot peg at a time with no issue.  Total time was a leisurely one hour period.  If you're in a hurry and know exactly what you're doing and what you need you can cut that in half.  The hardest part for me was reinstalling the spring while putting in the pin, probably a good 10 minutes.. Hands and fingers don't co-operate like they used to.  These pegs are almost twice the width of the stock pegs..  They should enhance anyone's balance significantly, especially beginners to mid level riders when standing.  Also great for keeping your feet on the pegs around corners or in the rough stuff.  Probably the best bang for the buck mod for anyone who rides on the trails or hard dirt..

   Today I put the sprocket on...  too rainy to test it.  Uneventful install. You do not need to remove the rear wheel as I see some guys do.  Just loosen the axle nut and push everything forward as far as it will go.  A little finagling and you can slip the stock sprocket off.  The new one will result in a different chain adjustment when you tighten everything up.  One caution, there are ears on a washer that are there to bend over slightly to prevent the sprocket from making its way loose.  No one bent them over for the stock sprocket.  As I attempted to peen them over for the new sprocket one of the ears broke off.  And I didn't tap it that hard..  Since there are two ears it will be ok ( especially since the factory didn't do it at all )  but I'll probably get a new one anyway..   I put the bike on a big floor jack and a 2x12  about a foot long just so the rear wheel was off the ground.  About a half hour.. easy install.  No master link required and no links needed to be removed.  It might be awfully close if a 13T was put in however..  Curious to see how much more quickly the power band comes into play.  Test it tomorrow if it doesn't rain.  Really wet around here.

Thanks for the update, I cannot wait to hear how the new gearing feels to you!!  

[NoBs]

On 3/29/2020 at 1:56 PM, Slo_n_easy said:

Thanks for the update, I cannot wait to hear how the new gearing feels to you!!  

After what seems like a week of on and off rain, I took it out on the road for a test ride. I like it a lot better on the street. It actually pulls a bit in 5th gear up a slight grade instead of slowing down and shifting which was annoying to say the least. Thumbs up on the street but be advised I was doing around 55 mph and the motor was singing a bit. Not over revving but over 60 may not be the ticket for any extended length of time.  Seems like it still would do  70 or better but ....  .  In the dirt I found all the gears more usable although not as much as I originally hoped..  Once on the power it pulled strong. Maybe I'm expecting a bit too much from this 250 as far as when the power kicks in.  4 strokes traditionally had torque way before the 2 strokes.

 

Bottom line...  thumbs up on street and dirt.  If you would be mainly dirt, a 13T would probably really awaken this thing the least expensive way possible and be a blast to ride on fast trails, gravel roads and up hills. And also make all the gears even more usable throughout their range.  Just know ahead of time IMO, it will not be happy for extended periods at close to max rpms..  How fast is that ?  Don't know. I'd guess from the one tooth change that it would be ok at 50 mph, 55 would be pushing it a bit and 60 ?  Sure, no problem with the speed, just may be too many rpms for any length of time..  It was nice to feel like the bike had a big HP boost even though the HP remains the same.  And there is no way you are going to get that feeling of a power surge for $ 20 on any other mode you make.  If there is,  please,  anyone tell me what it is..   I may order the 13T  after a while just to compare them.  For the price, you can't go wrong with wither one..  as I said, the 13T may require a master link if you go that route..  I bought one just in case..  around $ 5.50 for one.   Good luck..

[NoBs]

Not sure if you are still around but I found the bike with the 14T will do at least 74 mph on the street..  While not wound tight I wouldn't think it had much more to give.  As noted before, the bike pulls harder with the 14T counter shaft sprocket which is why ( I think ) it  still goes over 70 w/out a problem.  Surprisingly the vibration wasn't nearly as bad as I thought it would be.  You might get more mph downhill with a stock or 16T sprocket but not up a slight grade. I also bought a induction type tach that the wire simply wraps around the spark plug to give an RPM reading.  It will be interesting where the shift points are using it.  One more mod I forgot about was the lowering kit I bought from someone on the forums.  It immediately softened the rear suspension noticeably.  I only recently managed to bottom it over a slight jump.  When I looked underneath I found that the combination of the lowering kit and the 14T sprocket moved the rear wheel forward to the point where it is prematurely hitting the rear fender.  Now that the bike has a few hundred miles on it I can tighten the chain a bit to move it back a tad..  Had I known I was going to lower it, I would have opted for a rear sprocket change instead of the front.  It was more an impulse buy than anything but I was pleased with the way the rear end felt over bumps..  I may end up doing that so I may switch back to the stock sprocket.  The gearing should be about where it was when I first changed to the 14T. That way the wheel will be back where it needs to be to utilize the full travel of the rear shock..

   If you don't go crazy with it, this is turning out to be a pretty good bike...   just don't take off the lights and race it on the motocross track.  Oh yeah, I drilled and tapped the front fork caps to I could try air forks like back in the old days..  Little, if any benefit if that helps..