KTM450 '08 RF4 Valve Clearance Check Help

[Burgs05]

Hi Guys,

 

A noob to posting, but the information here has been gold in assisting me work on my bike since I purchased it.

 

But Im struggling to find info on the Valve Clearance procedure for my 2008 KTM450 SXF with the RF4 Engine.  Plenty of posts on other engine models, but nothing specific on the RF4 which seems to be quite a bit different to other models

 

Ive pulled the top cover off, and got TDC, but its almost impossible to get a feeler gauge between the Valve shim and the Rocker Arm due to the head configuration.

 

Has anyone got any ideas how to get in there to measure it?  Ive tried bending the feeler gauge but there is just not enough room to be confident its been measured right.

 

Any advice would be much appreciated.

 

Bike is hard to start when warm, which I understand is most likely the valve clearances causing it?

 

[Havingfun]

does it spin fast (turn over) or slow when its warm?

Edited February 10, 2015 by Havingfun

[Burgs05]

Spins at normal speed, same as when cold but needs alot more cranking to start

[stangconv]

you have a service manual??

[stangconv]

http://www.countrycross.sk/store/RA450%20SXF%202007-E.pdf

 

I just did mine, but the engine wasnt in the bike... So not alot of help.

[Burgs05]

Thanks Stangcov, I revisited the manual and found the section for checking the clearance that Id missed when I last looked at it.

It does show with the engine removed which looks much easier, but I'll have a look again and see if I can apply the same technique while the engine is installed.

 

Ill let ya know.  Cheers for the advice.

[claybilly17]

Burgs, it isn't that much harder to do it with the engine still in the bike. Just remove the spark wire and valve cover and there is a lot more room than you would think. Plenty of room for your feeler gauges. The intake side is a little harder than the exhaust but still very accessible.

[Burgs05]

Cheers Claybilly17, I havent had a chance to look at it yet, but will this week.  Might see if I can get a narrower set of feeler gauges than what I have to make it easier to get in there.

[nathanm3]

Does anyone happen to have an 08 450/505 service manual digital handy? please pm me or email it to nathan.montgomery3@gmail.com. I have an 07 but its definately different from my 08 505 sxf

[nathanm3]

id suggest trying to due it in the bike first, pulling the motors on these bikes isn't difficult or really that much more time consuming. How many hours does your bike have on it now? Do you mx or just light woods ride? Abuse makes a huge difference on maintenance interval frequencies. Why are you checking valve clearance i suppose is my question.. it might be time to think about re-ringing your bike and checking water pump/oil pump specs. Just food for thought. any advice in disassembly or installation im more than willing to help. 

[nathanm3]

FYI . if your using the 07 manual i believe the clearances for the valves are different on the 08 manuals. Someone please verify but i know on my 08 505 sxf the clearances are different than 07 manual states as well as bypass spring length an some other little good to know things. Hince wy an 08 manual is needed! thanks in advance. 

[shift1313]

Clearance should be .07-.13mm intake and .12-.18mm for exhaust. You can get a set of feelers in there. Much better than a 5valve yamaha! There are tapered tip feelers out there that help. The cams have flat spots near the journal. When those line up with the valve cover "plane" thats TDC. If you are pulling the cams its a good idea to drain the oil and use the tdc locking point on the crank under the motor near the water pump. I think on the 08 you can pull the sealing washer off and put the bolt back. I used a handle bar clamp bolt on my 11.

Getting the vc off and the cam towers is a pain. Have to remove the motor mount. The coolant line is in the way too but can be done without pulling it.

The twin cam rf4 is the easiest motor to do valve shims!

I think the cam tower bolts are 14Nm and the VC bolts are 6Nm but double check your manual.

Tools needed from memory

14mm allen for stator plug.

14mm socket to rotate motor.

10mm for vc

10mm for cam towers if swapping shims

13mm sockets for motor mounts

Edited March 13, 2015 by shift1313

[shift1313]

Also are you using the hot start? And easier with or without it?

[claybilly17]

I have never had to take the motor mounts off to do a valve check. There is plenty of room to fit feeler gauges in

[shift1313]

My upper mount wraps over the vc. You need to pull it to get the vc off. At least its a whole lot easier on my 11 & 12. Maybe the 10 back had a different frame mount point. What year is yours? I noticed your ignition module is on thw frame and mines under my seat. Ps im on mobile and cant see signature info.

Edited March 13, 2015 by shift1313

[claybilly17]

My upper mount wraps over the vc. You need to pull it to get the vc off. At least its a whole lot easier on my 11 & 12. Maybe the 10 back had a different frame mount point. What year is yours? I noticed your ignition module is on thw frame and mines under my seat. Ps im on mobile and cant see signature info.

mines an 09

[shift1313]

mines an 09

This is what my upper motor mounts look like.  Makes it a real pain to get the VC off.  Good to know the 07-10 was different.

[claybilly17]

This is what my upper motor mounts look like. Makes it a real pain to get the VC off. Good to know the 07-10 was different.

Ouch! That looks like a real pain in the dick! Is that an sxf or an exc??

[shift1313]

Sxf. My 11and 12 are the same. Im sure the unicam is better I hope.

[claybilly17]

Sxf. My 11and 12 are the same. Im sure the unicam is better I hope.

Yeah they are especially with the slanted valve cover it makes access pretty easy. I do have to say though, the rf4 is the easiest dohc motor to do not counting what might be in your way.