Higher Wattage Headlight Bulbs ok to use?

[pandrewdee4t]

hey guys.
Looking at possibly changing the headlight bulb over to a 55/60w Halogen H4 from the stock 35/35w, for more light for when riding at night. Not looking at changing the types of lighting.
Just wondering if it's ok to put higher wattage bulbs in, with no negative effects?
And will the extra heat burn the plastic headlight reflector or anything?

My bike is fitted with an aftermarket higher powered stator and rectifier.

Bike is a KTM EXC 2004 model.

Edited January 18, 2015 by pandrewdee4t

[mjruopp]

The new bulb will draw about 5 amps vs. 3-ish. Be sure the circuit is rated and fused appropriately.

As for your charging system, determine peak load by adding up the current demands of all your electrical loads in watts (each individual bulb, horn, etc). Ensure your stator meets that demand. If you can't find a wattage rating, tally up the amp rating of all fuses and multiply by 12.

You can determine total amperage draw by dividing the total load (watts) by 12 (volts) to get amps to determine if your voltage regulator output is up to the task.

Chances are it will be fine, unless you are running a re-wound stator for a lighting coil that is barley rated to need the demands of a 35w bulb.

[BDM]

I've been running that setup on my 04 for years with one difference;

 

When I added the halogen bulb I also swapped out the USA EXC plastic lensed light housing for a glass lensed item which I believe were stock KTM in some other markets. The concern was that the extra heat might be a problem with the plastic. Not sure this is true as the rest of the assembly remains plastic even on the glass unit.

 

One big benefit of the glass is much better optics and light control/dispersion over the plastic. I believe I sourced the glass housing + mounting bits from Baja Designs.

 

I believe upping the wattage, going to halogen and switching to glass each account for approximately 1/3 of the total improvement. Stay away from the newer diamond shaped lights, I've never seen or heard anything good about them. 

 

Bruce

[JVP]

The 500 EXC don't support the Halogen Sicass bulbs. (Made in China) They blow the 10 amp fuse.   I found a 45/40 bulb make by Solero (Made in Italy) that work better and brighter than stock.  It would be nice to find a LED that would fit in a Stock step up.

[dieselcruiserhead]

cyclops makes a plug and play LED that is only 10 watts and something $60.  You'll need a $15 rectifier (also plug and play) if putting it into the AC side.  

 

I run a 55 watt bulb glue gunned into my 35 watt AC line on my '10 XC-W and zero issues.   Super light as well, 1.6lbs instead of .6 lbs of a number plate.  Cheap and easy too...  But not sure if it will work on a 500 or not.

[JVP]

cyclops makes a plug and play LED that is only 10 watts and something $60.  You'll need a $15 rectifier (also plug and play) if putting it into the AC side.  

 

I run a 55 watt bulb glue gunned into my 35 watt AC line on my '10 XC-W and zero issues.   Super light as well, 1.6lbs instead of .6 lbs of a number plate.  Cheap and easy too...  But not sure if it will work on a 500 or not.

Do you have a web-site?

[dieselcruiserhead]

This is me being snarky, but yes...

 

http://lmgtfy.com/?q=cyclops+lighting

Edited January 21, 2015 by dieselcruiserhead

[farmboybunk]

I'll second the cyclops light. I have it in my 2012 xc-w 500 and therefore don't need the rectifier (efi bike with dc power), but it's a great light. Four of my riding buddies also have the light and like it a lot. It really is plug-and-play. great stuff.

[SnowMule]

Higher wattage headlights can melt the housing/lens.  Worth trying, but that's something to watch, in addition to current carrying capability of the wiring. 

 

I have a 35W H4 on mine, it's decent. 

[Betarocker]

I went with the Cyclops 3600 LED bulb. Huge improvement, but you need DC voltage.

[pandrewdee4t]

I solved my issue anyway.

I fitted a new glass headlight assembly instead and went to the higher wattage bulb.

[Spud786]

I haven't looked into the bulb situation yet , there seems to be 2 bulbs on mine, a typical H4 bulb, and some car dome light looking bulb at the bottom, whats that bulb for, is that the low beam?

[Mikek671]

I haven't looked into the bulb situation yet , there seems to be 2 bulbs on mine, a typical H4 bulb, and some car dome light looking bulb at the bottom, whats that bulb for, is that the low beam?

Small bulb is marker light, if you switch to a setup like Baja Designs it gets deleted.  Friend put a Baja Designs on my old 2012 and I have one now on my 15, totally worth the price - amazing light output and it is nicely put together.

[bfly]

I'll second the cyclops light. I have it in my 2012 xc-w 500 and therefore don't need the rectifier (efi bike with dc power), but it's a great light. Four of my riding buddies also have the light and like it a lot. It really is plug-and-play. great stuff.

 

Did you remove the rubber headlight cover when you went with this setup? It seems like you would have to do that for the fan to be able to cool the bulb properly.

[SnowMule]

and some car dome light looking bulb at the bottom, whats that bulb for, is that the low beam?

No, that's a running light... think it's a euro thing.  Only like 5 watts or something, not enough to light up much of anything.

[farmboybunk]

Did you remove the rubber headlight cover when you went with this setup? It seems like you would have to do that for the fan to be able to cool the bulb properly.

Yes I used the rubber boot with the cyclops light, but I costume cut the boot to fit. I cut the back round enclosed portion off so it could breath, but still seal and protect the components of the light. I ran it that way for a while, but I blew a fuse two months ago and in the process of finding the fault I removed the rubber boot and forgot to reinstall it. I've ran it that way since, as i've been to lazy to pull the headlight back off. The electrical fault ended up having nothing to do with the light...

 

The light seem pretty durable. I don't think it matters either way. Running with the costume cut rubber boot or no boot at all.

[pandrewdee4t]

No, that's a running light... think it's a euro thing. Only like 5 watts or something, not enough to light up much of anything.

Mine also has a running light from stock.

What exactly is a running light and what purpose does it serve?

[SnowMule]

Mine also has a running light from stock.

What exactly is a running light and what purpose does it serve?

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Daytime_running_lamp

[Betarocker]

The Euro version DRL is on all the time regardless of the operation of the headlight. 

[bfly]

Yes I used the rubber boot with the cyclops light, but I costume cut the boot to fit. I cut the back round enclosed portion off so it could breath, but still seal and protect the components of the light. I ran it that way for a while, but I blew a fuse two months ago and in the process of finding the fault I removed the rubber boot and forgot to reinstall it. I've ran it that way since, as i've been to lazy to pull the headlight back off. The electrical fault ended up having nothing to do with the light...

 

The light seem pretty durable. I don't think it matters either way. Running with the costume cut rubber boot or no boot at all.

 

Cool. Thanks for the info. I'm going to pickup one from eBay and give it a try.