what reeds are best for the cr250's stock cage?

[TwoStroker894]

Well I've done some searching on here and haven't found too much information on reeds so I figured I would start a new thread.

I have tried to narrow down my options to either the Boyesen Super Stock Carbon Reeds http://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p/1151/-/31531/Boyesen-Super-Stock-Carbon-Reeds?v=1975 or the Boyesen Dual Stage Power Reeds http://www.motosport.com/dirtbike/BOYESEN-DUAL-STAGE-POWER-REEDS?ride=HONDA;CR250;2004 As much as I would like to upgrade to an aftermarket cage, it simply isn't in the budget right now, so suggesting I get one really wont be of any help to me.

From what i understand, the carbon fiber reeds are more durable but are not as flexible as the fiberglass ones, resulting in less throttle response off the bottom. Where as the fiber glass reeds are more flexible and allow for improved response off the bottom. However the fiberglass reeds have a tendency to chip and have a shorter life.....

so the questions I'm left with are, what kind of longevity could i expect to get out of either of these reeds? // How noticeable is the difference in power delivery between the two of them? // Do i have to modify the stock cage to run the Dual stage Reeds? // Which reeds would you go with if choosing between these two? // And are there any other reeds that would be a better choice?

Thanks for the the help in advance!

Edited February 24, 2014 by TwoStroker894

[cmjb]

Don't go searching for significant gains from reed changes. I went from stock cage with stock reeds, to stock cage with Boyesen pro-series and now have the complete Radvalve. I can't say I noticed much of a difference. I might even sell the radvalve and go back to the Pro-series. Heck you should maybe price out oem reeds.

[izcain]

I have been happy with the boyesen carbons here. I did them when I rebuilt the top end. The bike has a lot more snap now but that is probably more from a new top end more so then new reeds since mine were not bad.

[thi06]

I use the boyeson ones that have both carbon and fiberglass. I think they are called pro series. Did have to swap jets after, so I think they were a little improvement.

[CamP]

OEM reeds are best.

[TwoStroker894]

I'm really less concerned with performance gains and more concerned with longevity. I just wasn't sure if sticking with the single stage reeds was in any way contributing to the light switch hit (aside form the squish correction). But at the same time I don't want to waste $50 on some fiberglass reeds that may not make it through a season of ridding. I know you are a huge advocate of OEM parts Cam, (as am I) but it seems like the Boyesen super stock carbon reeds are nearly identical to the OEM ones.... I suppose the OEM ones have a flex index engineered specifically for the CR though?

[Piney Woods]

Honda engineering spends millions on items like this, very hard to beat. OEM OEM OEM.

[wykyd450r]

I have the dual stage boyesens in mine, and they seem good. With only 4.4 hours on it, I cant say how long they will last.

[TwoStroker894]

Well I’ve decided that I’m going to go with the Boyesen super stock carbon reeds just because it’s saving me a couple bucks on this order as a whole. I am also adding an FMF Turbine Core 2 silencer, and run a TwinAir air filter.  Does anyone have any suggestions for jetting the stock carb?  (Besides getting a PWK Airstriker) The elevation where I ride varies from 900 ft. to 1290 ft. above sea level and temperatures usually hang around 75 - 80 degrees. 

[frdbtr]

Well I’ve decided that I’m going to go with the Boyesen super stock carbon reeds just because it’s saving me a couple bucks on this order as a whole. I am also adding an FMF Turbine Core 2 silencer, and run a TwinAir air filter.  Does anyone have any suggestions for jetting the stock carb?  (Besides getting a PWK Airstriker) The elevation where I ride varies from 900 ft. to 1290 ft. above sea level and temperatures usually hang around 75 - 80 degrees. 

 

Pro circuit makes jetting recommendations that guys here like CamP swear by so here is the website link to that.  Just look up your model year and try what they recommend.

 

http://www.procircuit.com/jettingspecs3.htm

[terrobelone]

OEM reeds are best.

This. I just got a set of 01 cr250 oem reeds from partzilla for under $16

A word of advise. Get some spare screws that hold down the reeds part 15 on for my bike.

[H4L]

Well I’ve decided that I’m going to go with the Boyesen super stock carbon reeds just because it’s saving me a couple bucks on this order as a whole. I am also adding an FMF Turbine Core 2 silencer, and run a TwinAir air filter.  Does anyone have any suggestions for jetting the stock carb?  (Besides getting a PWK Airstriker) The elevation where I ride varies from 900 ft. to 1290 ft. above sea level and temperatures usually hang around 75 - 80 degrees. 

Good choice. Don't spend your money on an aftermarket reed cage they really don't out perform the stocker.  It's hard to beat oem stuff, but when it comes to reed petals I have found that the aftermarket ones do out last them.  The oe petals tend to fray & chip faster then the v-force ones I've ran in the past 10 years.  

[TwoStroker894]

Good choice. Don't spend your money on an aftermarket reed cage they really don't out perform the stocker.  It's hard to beat oem stuff, but when it comes to reed petals I have found that the aftermarket ones do out last them.  The oe petals tend to fray & chip faster then the v-force ones I've ran in the past 10 years.  

 

I try and save dollar where ever I can so I have coin to spend on the things that count.

[SMarquez]

This. I just got a set of 01 cr250 oem reeds from partzilla for under $16

a word of advise. Get some spare screws that hold down the reeds part 15 on for my bike.

A little off topic but an RC car shop or a specialty tool store may have J.I.S screwdrivers. They look like Phillips but are made FOR Japanese screws. They fit tighter than a Phillips. If you look close, screws with a little dot on the head should have J.I.S. screwdrivers. They are really good for float bowl screws and reed cages.

[TwoStroker894]

A little off topic but an RC car shop or a specialty tool store may have J.I.S screwdrivers. They look like Phillips but are made FOR Japanese screws. They fit tighter than a Phillips. If you look close, screws with a little dot on the head should have J.I.S. screwdrivers. They are really good for float bowl screws and reed cages.

 

I'll have to look into getting a set of those screw drivers before I tackle the reed swap. I went at the screws on my float bowl with a Snap-on Philips head thinking id remove them no problem and ended up striping out all 3 of them.    I think I'm going to order one of those $19.99 "TV gimmick" extractor bits to try and remove them. I just ordered another set of screws off motosport today but i like the idea of switching them to hex heads.

[frdbtr]

I'll have to look into getting a set of those screw drivers before I tackle the reed swap. I went at the screws on my float bowl with a Snap-on Philips head thinking id remove them no problem and ended up striping out all 3 of them.    I think I'm going to order one of those $19.99 "TV gimmick" extractor bits to try and remove them. I just ordered another set of screws off motosport today but i like the idea of switching them to hex heads.

 

get a set of needle nose vise grips and pop those things off, then replace them with allen head screws and you will never strip another one. 

[Piney Woods]

A little off topic but an RC car shop or a specialty tool store may have J.I.S screwdrivers. They look like Phillips but are made FOR Japanese screws. They fit tighter than a Phillips. If you look close, screws with a little dot on the head should have J.I.S. screwdrivers. They are really good for float bowl screws and reed cages.

Thank you!!! ?

[PeterJ]

Well I’ve decided that I’m going to go with the Boyesen super stock carbon reeds just because it’s saving me a couple bucks on this order as a whole. I am also adding an FMF Turbine Core 2 silencer, and run a TwinAir air filter.  Does anyone have any suggestions for jetting the stock carb?  (Besides getting a PWK Airstriker) The elevation where I ride varies from 900 ft. to 1290 ft. above sea level and temperatures usually hang around 75 - 80 degrees. 

 

-Remember, you jet according to throttle position, not rpms!

-Two-strokes run different under load.

-Put the needle clip in the stock position and the air screw at the stock turns out. The float height has to be right! Use the factory specs first.

-Back the idle speed screw out so you know the slide is all the way down.

-Put some masking tape on the throttle wheel housing and grip with marks at -1/8, 1/4, and 1/2.

-Find a long, smooth, straight, preferrably slightly up hill stretch that is at least a 1/4 mile long.

-Warm up your bike and start by making 5th gear acceleration runs from as low of rpm as the motor will accelerate from, IN FIFTH GEAR, up the hill at EXACTLY THE 1/8 throttle position until you reach maximum speed IN FIFTH GEAR AT 1/8 THROTTLE. Then stop and back the air screw out 1/4 turn and do it again.

-If the bike is running rich, it will be able to pull from a lower rpm and will accelerate harder each time the screw is backed out.

-When you get to 2 1/2 to 3 turns out, change the pilot to one size smaller and reset the airscrew to 1 1/2 turns out and continue backing out the air screw and making runs.

-When the bike's accelleration is at its best, (REMEMBER you are only opening the throttle 1/8!) you are at the setting you need.

-Next do the wide open throttle runs, ending with the kill switch pressed in and the clutch disengaged.

-Read the plug. The jetting may be too lean. Change the main jet accordingly.

-Next check accelleration, as done for the pilot, with the throttle at 1/4 and 1/2. Also notice throttle response.

-The needle and nozzle control the transition between the pilot and main circuit throttle openings. If you have followed the above procedures, the latter two are perfect. Adjust the needle clip position up or down and compare which clip position is best. You may need to try different needles or nozzles.

-Lastly, turn the idle screw in so the bike BARELY idles. A cruiser needs a good idle, a two-stroke dirt bike needs good throttle response and power!

[bigpaul]

JIS= Japanese Industrial Standard

 

just google "JIS screwdriver" plenty of online sources come up. Wait until you use a JIS screwdriver the first time, they work great.

[ScottyIg]

JIS= Japanese Industrial Standard

 

just google "JIS screwdriver" plenty of online sources come up. Wait until you use a JIS screwdriver the first time, they work great.

 

+1, I read an article that the American version (Phillips) was designed for the Ford assembly line to actually cam out of the slots at a certain torque to prevent over tightening.  It's reassuring that we aren't all just idiots who can't seem to remove a screw.  In the spirit of keeping this thread off topic, an impact driver is a great tool to have as well for removing stubborn screws.  For all the old bikes that use Phillips/JIS screws on the cases and covers, I don't even bother with a screwdriver I go right to the impact driver.

 

http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp?P65=&tool=all&item_ID=631500&group_ID=674820&store=snapon-store&dir=catalog