BEST KTM Gas Cap Fix- Free and Easy

[James_Dean]

KTM Owners-

 

• KTM gas caps are hard to open, especially in cold weather. Here is the best fix I’ve seen, and it keeps the locking feature working.
• After modifying, the filler cap removal takes less than half pressure from the thumb tab and saves frustration.
• Orient the long leg towards the thumb tab, after cutting ONLY 2 of the legs shorter as shown.
• Make sure to reinstall the same side of the locking part upwards, just as it was removed.
• This modification also works on the “new” 2013-2014 KTM gas caps too.
You might still want to put a little grease on the rubber seal, but the critical problem is solved.

 

 

--After disassembling the gas cap, cut 2 of the legs of the locking piece so they are just short of extending outside of the housing

 

 

 

--Orient the long leg towards the thumb tab when reinstalling the parts.

 

 

 

--The problem with the original design is that it uses leverage to push down on the inner plastic ring, but the downward force is nearest to the end of the thumb tab, opening the nearest tang more than the other 2. In colder conditions (and sometimes warm too), the plastic is too stiff and is hard to deform, making removal nearly impossible.

 

[mx481]

thank you for posting . I had a real time with the ktm gas cap lol , I found it easier to just snip a little off each arm without taking the cap apart 

[CHILLY]

http://www.enduro360.com/2012/02/28/motorcycle-technical-advice/racing-with-stock-ktm-tank/

[L. Euler]

I just took out the whole star.

[quadracer706]

I just nipped the two legs with my flush cutters and left the one by the button. Seems to work easier.

[the_real_wild1]

grabbed the side cutters and cut them off yesterday. Took 30 seconds. 

[Wooded]

Old thread but I found an interesting fix. My 21 300 is fairly easy to unscrew compared to my 18. The difference is the torque on the 3 torx bolts holding it togeather.

Loosened the screws on the 18 cap just to the point where it wasnt such a pain and bam!! Much better!  When the cap is locked into place the pressure of being installed holds the screws in place so they dont move. 

[Paul A]

I am the king of resurrecting old threads. I have a 2023 KTM and they STILL HAVEN'T FIXED IT. I did the clipping of the 2 tabs and kept the one and it is now working. Thanks to this forum for giving us information that the factory should have fixed in engineering. I tried what wooded suggested and it did not work. Spring tension is just either too tight or too loose. Giving the tabs a vasectomy did the trick! THANKS AGAIN. I thought I couldn't get my gas cap off. It was hard before, with the colder weather of winter, next to impossible and nothing available from the aftermarket, short of buying an IMS or Acerbis tank. Good grief KTM, would you pay better attention to details? The little things are getting worse with every year. 

Stock seat: too tall for anyone under 6'4" (bought Seat Concept)                                                                                                                                                                Clutch pull - way too stiff (changed to easy pull levers, 50% reduction in lever pull)                                                                                                                              Front brake pads - squeal after 1-2 rides - (replaced with Galfer sintered metal- zero squeal)                                                                                                            Foot controls - cheap quality toe pieces: - hollow square shifter is too fat and inconsistent, depending on riding position. (Replaced with round top shifter/rear brake toe piece bends super easy and is too small (replaced with Tusk sturdy spring-loaded toe piece with adjustable screws for bite and personalized feel.    Gearing- too big of a gap between first and second gear (350 XC-F). (Went to a 49T rear sprocket and added a 8 oz. Stealthy flywheel weight- zero flame outs now) Handlebars: Go back to ProTaper or Rethal! Neken brand bars have no give! - (went with ProTaper Evo - had in stock 8 different bends - picked the ones I felt comfortable with- less harsh over rocks and landing).                                                                                                                                                                        Insufficient grease in bearings- had to repack front and back wheel, swing arm and linkage bearings - insufficient amount of grease. (Maxima Waterproof blue) Recommended suspension settings- way off. Too harsh. Comfort settings should be the stock settings and go from there. Even completely broken in with the forks perfectly torqued, and aligned, using motion pro alignment tool, air bleeders and lots of playing around with air pressure vs. compression dampening. Still trying to get the settings right. PS: stock rear spring with 215 lb. rider has 4.0" - glad I didn't go with "the recommended stiffer spring". 

One last thing: on the XC-F model, the kickstand in the down position sits directly on the pin the holds the left footpeg on. It is held in place by a cotter pin, which breaks off after 1/2 of one ride. I have tried everything short of a metal about a 1/2"long that will slip over the exposed peg pin, with 2 small holes large enough to accept the cotter pin. Either they just had a brain fart in engineering, or my bike was sent out with a tiny part missing that stops the kickstand from resting on the pin and pushing it to the frame where the pin could fall out and I could lose a footpeg during a ride. I currently kick it down with the kickstand up, so that doesn't happen, but the pin still breaks every time I have to put the kickstand down and put any pressure on it whatsoever. 

Edited January 28, 2024 by Paul A