How to get more traction with yz250

[GaSmoker81]

Me and some friends where drag racing on the dirt the other day and i couldn't get my bike to stop spiining until 3rd or 4th gear.

Is there something i can do to make my bike hook up better.

Maybe a techniqe to try or something I can add to my bike.

[Polar_Bus]

#1) Add a flywheel weight, #2) start out in 2nd gear. #3) as soon as the bike is in motion, shift all your weight rearward, pull back hard on the handlebars, and push down and foreward on the pegs. This will be a huge difference in efficient acceleration.

[BeauGt]

#1) Add a flywheel weight, #2) start out in 2nd gear. #3) as soon as the bike is in motion, shift all your weight rearward, pull back hard on the handlebars, and push down and foreward on the pegs. This will be a huge difference in efficient acceleration.

And the need for a new rear fender!

[adam728]

• Is the rear tire fresh?
  
• Is the rear tire correct for the dirt type you are running? (ie, you don't want a hardpack tire in sand, nor a paddle tire on blue-groove)
  
• Tire pressure in the correct range for the tire/tube/terrain? I've watched guys that swear you need 25 psi to avoid pinch flats skate all over the place. I typically run 10-13 psi in the rear depending on tire and where I am riding.
  
• What gearing are you running? If it's geared lower than stock (ie 13/50 instead of 14/50) you are going to have a really hard time hooking up.
  
• What modifications does the bike have?
  
• Smooth surface, or bumpychoppy? (then suspension settings come into play more)
  

May seem like a lot of stupid questions, but I won't start suggesting flywheel weight or gearing changes or anything until we know what you are running. A worn out tire with 30 psi in it, 13/52 gearing, etc will make your bike spin like it's on snow regardless of technique.

[arnego2]

Me and some friends where drag racing on the dirt the other day and i couldn't get my bike to stop spiining until 3rd or 4th gear.

Is there something i can do to make my bike hook up better.

Maybe a techniqe to try or something I can add to my bike.

Clutching and a lower tire pressure should help.

[cwtoyota]

• Is the rear tire fresh?
  
• Is the rear tire correct for the dirt type you are running? (ie, you don't want a hardpack tire in sand, nor a paddle tire on blue-groove)
  
• Tire pressure in the correct range for the tire/tube/terrain? I've watched guys that swear you need 25 psi to avoid pinch flats skate all over the place. I typically run 10-13 psi in the rear depending on tire and where I am riding.
  
• What gearing are you running? If it's geared lower than stock (ie 13/50 instead of 14/50) you are going to have a really hard time hooking up.
  
• What modifications does the bike have?
  
• Smooth surface, or bumpychoppy? (then suspension settings come into play more)
  

May seem like a lot of stupid questions, but I won't start suggesting flywheel weight or gearing changes or anything until we know what you are running. A worn out tire with 30 psi in it, 13/52 gearing, etc will make your bike spin like it's on snow regardless of technique.

Adam's post is right on the money in my opinion.

I run right at 13.5 PSI front a rear at most tracks with standard tubes. If you're running HD tubes, you can run right on down to 10 PSI without pinching them.

14:51 or 14:50 is great gearing on a YZ250 that doesn't have extensive engine mods.

Good starting technique starts with body position. It's also very important to be ultra smooth with your throttle, clutch and shifting.

On good dirt, I have to start in 2nd gear and sit all the way at the front of the seat. Put your elbows down (this is a start, not a corner) and put your chest just down low just above the crossbar.

When you rev the bike, just before you launch, let the clutch slip out until it just barely starts to pull on the bike. Some guys just lightly touch the front brake here... You should be at around 1/8 to 1/4 throttle (RPM's will be high)

DO NOT dump the clutch. Smoothly feed it out and ROLL on the throttle.

As you come out of the gate, move both feet up to the pegs and time your shift to 3rd properly with the power curve.

You should be sliding to the back of the seat as you're getting 3rd. The risk of looping out is gone once you've launched the bike. Make it a smooth transition.

I prefer to even stand up and hover my ass just above the back end of the seat/fender while gripping with my knees. That way, if I hit a bump my legs can absorb it.

Technique is the biggest part of that drag race.

It takes more effort to make a two stroke hook up. A lot more rider "english" is required than on a four-stroke bike. The tradeoff is that you can out-brake them and you have a lot more options in the corners.

[jar944]

I run right at 13.5 PSI front a rear at most tracks with standard tubes. If you're running HD tubes, you can run right on down to 10 PSI without pinching them.

You can go lower. With a 19" wheel I'm usually about 11.5 in the rocks.

When hill climbing we run as low as 4psi with a 140 tire on a 2.5x18 rim. Same tire & rim combo we run @ 7-8 psi in the rocks.

[GaSmoker81]

Thanks guys for all of the replies.

The terrain where i live is really hard to describe because it changes so much. It can go from very hard packed, to red clay, to white sand all in a few hundred yards. When it rains everything is supper muddy and when its dry everything is super sandy.

I'll keep working on my technique to get better results.

I haven't checked the psi in my tire latley but will check that to see where i am at.

This is my first two stroke.

Edited February 27, 2013 by GaDRZ400sMan

[cwtoyota]

You can go lower.

That works for other people I know...

Riding style is a factor for sure... I think the faster/harder you hit stuff, the more pressure you need to ensure your tubes will survive.

Strictly speaking in tearms of MX racing on tracks I cannot get away with any lower than 13 PSI on stock tubes. Even with a bunch of talc in the tire.

At 13.5 PSI I still tend to put little flat spots in my wheels from time to time because I overjump a lot of stuff.

13 PSI is the point where a DNF becomes a possibility for me. I'll give up that last 1% in order to finish every race.

Tire and tube selection makes a big difference here. If you're talking about a harder, heavier tire like a Maxxis, then 10 PSI will work fine.

For a Bridgestone 404/403 combo, Dunlop 756 and Geomax or the Michelin M12XC fronts I like to run you need a few more pounds.

Most important is to learn what works for YOU and check your tire pressure EVERY time you start the bike.

Edited February 27, 2013 by cwtoyota

[adam728]

I haven't checked the psi in my tire latley but will check that to see where i am at.

Tire pressure is a huge factor, I check mine after unloading before riding, every time. Usually I overfill before leaving home, then let them down to my target pressure at the trail.

That works for other people I know...

Riding style is a factor for sure... I think the faster/harder you hit stuff, the more pressure you need to ensure your tubes will survive.

Strictly speaking in tearms of MX racing on tracks I cannot get away with any lower than 13 PSI on stock tubes. Even with a bunch of talc in the tire.

At 13.5 PSI I still tend to put little flat spots in my wheels from time to time because I overjump a lot of stuff.

13 PSI is the point where a DNF becomes a possibility for me. I'll give up that last 1% in order to finish every race.

Tire and tube selection makes a big difference here. If you're talking about a harder, heavier tire like a Maxxis, then 10 PSI will work fine.

For a Bridgestone 404/403 combo, Dunlop 756 and Geomax or the Michelin M12XC fronts I like to run you need a few more pounds.

Most important is to learn what works for YOU and check your tire pressure EVERY time you start the bike.

Very well said. I found with std tube and a 756 I might need 13-14 psi in the rocks to keep from "feeling the rim" in rocks, where with a Maxxis Desert IT and UHD tube I can run a hair under 10 psi with no issue (and need too in order to get the dang truck tire to flex and grip!)

[cwtoyota]

(and need too in order to get the dang truck tire to flex and grip!)

This made me laugh.?

[primerib108]

2-strokes spin wheels.....just the nature of the beast. You will never be able to keep the tires for not spinning at WOT.....but the other suggestions will definately help for low speed technical riding. For instance my old yz450f loved the soft Michelin S12 tire and it would last for quite some time, but put it on a yz250, or for that matter a EG300 and guys would get roosted by the nobs flying off.

[RiderX]

Bumping the timing back a couple of degrees helps also.

[cameron250]

Bumping the timing back a couple of degrees helps also.

+1

https://www.thumpertalk.com/topic/584339-yz250-timing-thread/

[GaSmoker81]

Sadly i'm going to need a new rear tire soon (and my stock tire only has 15 hours on it) so i need to do lots of research and see which tire will be best for where i ride.

I'll start with getting a new tire, setting correct tire pressure, and always trying to improve my technique.

Oh and if anyone is curious how i destroyed my tire so soon i was riding a section of trail that connects to an old road that detoriated but is still paved for the most part. I was basically taking a turn in 3rd gear and going WOT when it straightened out to the old road. I did it several times until someone said dude look at your tires. Well the center knobs look like shark fins. Guess i was getting wheelspin on the road and not knowing it. Will not be doing that again.

[Polar_Bus]

Sadly i'm going to need a new rear tire soon (and my stock tire only has 15 hours on it) so i need to do lots of research and see which tire will be best for where i ride.

I'll start with getting a new tire, setting correct tire pressure, and always trying to improve my technique.

Oh and if anyone is curious how i destroyed my tire so soon i was riding a section of trail that connects to an old road that detoriated but is still paved for the most part. I was basically taking a turn in 3rd gear and going WOT when it straightened out to the old road. I did it several times until someone said dude look at your tires. Well the center knobs look like shark fins. Guess i was getting wheelspin on the road and not knowing it. Will not be doing that again.

Ask 10 people what tire they prefer your gonna get 12 different answers. I've tried a ton of different tires over the past 25 years, and have grown much admiration for the Maxxis Maxcross IT. The key factor with the Maxxis is compramise. It's a fantastic tire over a very broad spectrum of terrain. It will stick awesome from everything from sand to wet rocks. It's not perfect on any single terrain, but its great and predictable on everything IMO. And the longevity is great too, and they are priced very reasonably . Any tire performs awesome when new, but the Maxxis holds excellent traction even with deep wear .

Edited February 28, 2013 by Polar_Bus

[RiderX]

I went to an 18" tire better suited to the terrain I was riding to gain more traction, which helped, but that isn't good for MX because of the weight. Bumping the timing back helped A LOT. it reduces the mid range hit which is where my rear tire always started busting loose.

[RiderX]

Ask 10 people what tire they prefer your gonna get 12 different answers. I've tried a ton of different tires over the past 25 years, and have grown much admiration for the Maxxis Maxcross IT. The key factor with the Maxxis is compramise. It's a fantastic tire over a very broad spectrum of terrain. It's stick awesome from everything from sand to wet rocks. It's not perfect on any single terrain, but its great on everything IMO. And the longevity is great too, and they are priced very reasonably . Any tire performs awesome when new, but the Maxxis holds excellent traction even with deep wear .

+1 on Maxxis tires, I'm a huge fan. I'm running the Desert IT rear and it does well on anything I throw at it and it lasts ten times longer than the Michelin S12 and M12's I was running before. I'm running the Bridgestone M403 front and like it as well.

[Polar_Bus]

+1 on Maxxis tires, I'm a huge fan. I'm running the Desert IT rear and it does well on anything I throw at it and it lasts ten times longer than the Michelin S12 and M12's I was running before. I'm running the Bridgestone M403 front and like it as well.

My buddies over the the KX500 forums also love the Desert IT, only minor negitive I read is the desert IT feels a bit stiff (sidewall) to some riders, I love mine, and a KX500 puts a hurting on any rear tire, and the Maxxis is holding up excellent !

[adam728]

Sadly i'm going to need a new rear tire soon (and my stock tire only has 15 hours on it) so i need to do lots of research and see which tire will be best for where i ride.

15 hours is a long time for a tire in some terrains. I've shredded a rear tire in about 4 hours of rock riding.