William1

Nope, you've discovered OEM insanity. The only way to compare between brands and carb needle specs is via careful measuring and plotting. Single taper, dual and even triple taper. Length, straight diameter, angle of taper(s). Keihin and Mikuni do publish the needle specs (SUDCO catalog) but...those only apply the those needles, not those sold by YamaHonSuKawa

Yup... I merged his two accounts into the first one.

You should start with make/model/year and follow up with what kind of riding you do and the current things done to the bike. Otherwise, based on your comment, I'd say spend about $50K USD and make it uber awesome.,

I think the used market, E bikes will be parted out. We get so many new riders with extremely limited budgets, barely able to afford a 20 year old ICE bike that barely runs. Often with a little luck and few parts can make it run for another year. An EBike, the battery is what goes and there is no 'kid in a garage with vise grips' repair. $20K bikes are sold/given to semi pro and up racers and people with huge amounts of disposable income. No 17-25 YO is going to forego life to acquire one.

http://www.kandstech.com/index.php?page=switchescontrols

Web browser or phone app? Cleared cache? Your replies do not post or simply do not show and need to refresh the screen?

I think that hole is supposed to be there, as a vent. You need to figure out WHAT is vented and solve tha, I'd wager a seal is bad. You also need to clean to confirm the source of the leak.... first

Yes. Not precise at all but, for a day or two, it is easy and relatively effective. If compelled, you could lean out the main and needle, per the manuals rec's to get it more accurate but, for a day or two, is it worth the time when single tracking? Not to me. Worse case is when you get home a new spark plug is needed.

Open/remove the airbox door at altitude. I'd also get a extended adjustable fuel screw for setting the idle mix when up there. Make note of any changes you make to be able to restore them You are not going to want to be bringing jets and needles and fiddling. KISS.

Some ECU's will track hours... but how do you know if it is the original ECU? I know most Trail Tech devices have a back door that let you reset or change hours/miles, all that stuff. So... look at owners log book for servicing, parts receipts then make the judgement call. In some laces, you cannot get a street plate unless the ODO shows more than 7,500 miles. Easy to make a brand new bike ODO show that then reset after the DMV plates you. Just remember, the check is in the mail....

No oil of any sort is going to affect vibrations. If the engine is so worn out that the lube fill voids, then it is merely a ticking time bomb that you have delayed explosion for a little while. Engine vibes are from balance of reciprocating parts or due to loose fasteners. The only apparent thing a lube can do is make shifting easier. In the long haul, oil can make things last longer but oil generally gets contaminated from clutch debris or combustion blow by well before the oil is 'worn out. So generally, it is smarter to change more often and not spend the money of expensive oils. Just like buying an expensive iridium spark plug is no better than a regular on. Fancy plugs were created to deal with the EPA and the difficulty of plug changing, not performance. Buy a new $2 spark plug every year, not a $12 one.

https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-29132-MotoSeal-Ultimate-Gasket/

ThreeBond. I believe Permatex sells a equivalent as well. NOT RTV, but made specifically for joining cases halves. Do some googling.

Yeah... you have to wonder about a guy, joining a dirt bike forum, only claiming owning street bikes, reviving a dead thread to promote a product.

Way back in 'olden tymes' A motorcycle cost to sell a single unit, ignoring all R&D, tooling and countless other expenses, the cost/value of a single bike was approximately 1/2 of the retail MSRP, as a rule of thumb. When you add in all the other costs, actual profit for a unit to the OEM is about 10% of MSRP ...or less. Yamaha (and most of the car manufacturers) long ago, would make units available to employees at OEM cost. But... the employee could not turn around and sell. You could ride/race and once proven it was well used, you could sell to get another but the OEM reserved the right to buy it back from your for what you paid. The point being it was a 'use perk' and not to be a secondary income stream for the employee. This practice has ended and in the car world, you might get a subsidized lease or a free demo.