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Found 592 results

  1. Time Left: 14 days and 22 hours

    • FOR SALE
    • NEW

    i have a freshly rebuilt never fired 2001 honda cr125r engine. has fresh standard bore top end, also new crank and trans has been gone through can text or email pics verifying it is all new and never used. no stress cracks or welds on the cases this is a complete ready to go motor. ready to swap in or use parts off of. be perfect for a back up motor. i have this and several other parts as well like a frame subframe brake componets much more. please comment or message me for pics or information and we can work out a deal. lot of money spent on this. i had this plus almost a complete parts bike so i could have ready to go parts for my personal cr125r. make me a offer and i will ship. just comment or message me. thanks!

    $800.00

  2. Hi, everyone. I'm new here, so please pardon me if this is against the rules in some way. To get straight to the point, there is a big bore kit I would like to buy, but I need partners to go in with me. A little background on my project: I started with a 1992 TW200, and using the conversion information from users of tw200forum.com, I began to make a TW250. First I changed out the transmission, clutch, and crankshaft, among other things, with those from the 225 line from Yamaha (TTR225, TTR230, XT225). Then, when planning the top end, I came to know about Engines Only, otherwise known as XR100.com, who make performance upgrades for a selection of dirt bikes, one of which is the TTR230 (http://www.xr100.com/ttr230.htm). For those of you unfamiliar, the TW200/125/225, and the XT/TTR 225 series, as well as some ATVs, have many interchangeable engine parts, so the kit offered for the TTR230 on his site could potentially be a bolt-on upgrade to those bikes listed above (any below 225cc will probably have to have crankcase hole enlarged), and the piston alone could be a stock-bore, high-compression upgrade for an 08-12 XT250 with 16mm pin (call him to ask about clearances). The problem, and reason I'm coming to you for help, is that he has had very few customers wanting the kit lately, and is considering discontinuing it. His custom pistons are the key to the whole project, because they are the only 74mm Yamaha piston available with a 16mm wrist pin, and a compression ratio of 11.5:1 (stock is 9.5:1), and apparently, they only need 91 octane. The place he gets them requires a minimum batch of 4, so if I can't get enough people together, he probably won't consider ordering. I've posted this here, TW200Forum, and AdvRider in an attempt to round up a group of buyers, and to drum up business for the seller, because he's a nice guy. If you would like to ask questions, I'll answer what I can through PM, but you can also call or email him through his website: http://www.xr100.com Thanks everyone, and nice to meet you, John.
  3. Hey, 2 Weeks I bought a 2014 4 stroke Suzuki RMZ-250 and sometimes the bike struggles to start (hot and cold). One thing that is really strange, it's not possible to straight press down the kickstarter, I have to press to the half until the compression hits, and then back up and then Its possible to press it down. I know about the compression, which should make it easier to start the dirt bike, but here it completely blocks after the first half, its not even possible to push it down with one press. Not sure if this is normal for the 2014 model, with the 2017 model its possible to do it with one kick. As already mentioned the bike struggles to start sometimes, even when the engine is warm (this includes using choke when engine is cold and hot start when it's warm). Few days ago I've changed the oil and yesterday the gas + spark plug because the recent owner haven't used the bike for a year. I got a CR8EIA-10 spark plug, but still the bike struggles to start. There is no problem to start the bike by rolling down a hill and start it with the second gear, here everything works, but over time this is really annoying. My next guess would be to clean the air filter? But what should be my next steps, if the engine still struggles to start. Need your help guys. ~slei
  4. I have recently done a lot of maintenance to my WR 450f and there are still some issues which concern me with it, when I took out the clutch basket there was a gear with a bent piece on it (picture attached) This was probably done by the previous owner but I think it should probably be replaced? - When I checked the valves they were only opened for measuring when the knob things were pointed down instead of up, (picture attached) I dont know if the timing is messed up or if it has been retarded to the yz specs. ( the picture of the cam chain was when the valves were open, at the same time as the knob things were downwards in the other picture). -There is also a clattering noise from the engine but it seems to run fine? I will try to make a video for mine soon but it sounds pretty much like this persons - sorry about the bad pictures.
  5. I've seen this topic pop up a few times, so I thought I would share my findings. Just over 12 months ago I finished off my 440-kitted XR400 that was fitted with brand-new Kibblewhite valve springs, titanium retainers, Wiseco/Hot-rods 400EX crankshaft (love the electric start!), Kibblewhite black diamond valves (standard size) and a stage 3 Hotcam. I used a 4-play 440 kit from eBay that came with a pre-bored cylinder, a Wiseco 11:1 89mm piston and a Cometic gasket set. I had the head reconditioned and fitted with new stem seals and springs at my local machine shop. The head had a very slight mark from the head gasket firing ring so it was skimmed 5 thou, media blasted to clean it up, valve seats recut and then reassembled. Aside from this I did the rest of the assembly myself on my bench, following the workshop manual instructions for setting up the stud heights in the cylinder. I reused my old studs and rockers on the new assembly. I then got the motor running, eventually swapped over to a Mikuni BSR42 and took it out hard trail riding and commuting on the bike as my sole transport for the last 12 months. I have clocked up 260 hours/12,000km on the XR in that time, doing anything from very tight trails banging the bars off trees to hours on end sitting at 110-115km/h (70mph). I average about 5L per 100km (47mpg) with mixed riding as a commuter. In that time the bike was severely overheated once on the trail from hell (we managed 2km in 4 hours), to the point where the oil started to burn and smoke out the breather. It was quite down on compression after that, it turns out it had a partially blown head gasket. It still pulled very hard though! Which brings us to now. These photos are after the head and piston went back into the machine shop for a clean up. Unfortunately I don't have any before pictures due to time constraints except the first one (I am in the process of moving whilst rebuilding the XR). The piston has had a light buff on a wire wheel to remove carbon, the head has been stripped, valve seats recut (they were showing wear - to be expected after 260 hours of use. Especially considering it spent a lot of time >8000rpm!), new stem seals fitted and bead blasted once again. The bore has been honed and was found to be 2 thou out of round. This is somewhat to be expected given how severely it was overheated. Total cost to bring this motor back up to spec was $250AUD including all machine work & a set of rings and it's ready to go for it's next big trip - a 20,000km trip around Australia If anyone has any questions regarding building a 440, the electric start conversion or otherwise I'll be happy to help. I'll hopefully have some photos & video of the bike up soon once it has been edited. Night and day difference between a stock XR! Camshaft is showing a little discolouration but has no scoring or gouges that can be felt by hand - I was expecting more wear than this. 260 hour old piston. Broken in hard! Note: Piston has had a clean before this photo but the skirts are un-touched. Top of the piston after a quick de-carbon. It will be replaced at next tear down. Piston has some marks from blow-by past the rings but isn't showing any signs of fracturing or scoring. Reassembled for round two Head cleaned up and ready to refit. I have no idea why one of the valves is a different colour either - it's how I got them from Kibblewhite. So there you have it - 12,000km/260 hours in 12 months. $250AUD and it's ready to rock again. Aside from replacing 2 sets of friction plates I have not had to touch the motor aside from normal maintenance.
  6. Has a Wiseco top end, v force 3 reeds, 11oz Steahly fly wheel weight, FMF Gnarly exhaust, and a FMF powercore 2 silencer. This is one of the best dirt bikes I've ever owned and ridden. It's a bullet proof motor and it's never left me stranded or gave me any problems. I'm planning on getting a Lectron carburator or a Smartcarb carburetor because I hear they are like fuel injection for a 2 stroke.
  7. Hello, I am looking for a used 125cc dirt bike. I am puzzeled because I do not know what I want, what would you guys recommend and why would you recommend it. Also where could I get performance mods, specifically suspension and which of the bikes have the most tuning capabilities. I've narrowed my choices down to Kawasaki kx,Honda cbr/xr, Yamaha yz, and Suzuki rm around the 2000-2005 range. I'd rather hear from people who owned one of the bikes but advice from any of the experts is welcome P.S I'm sorry for any mistakes like the wrong "sub forum" or grammar as I'm on mobile
  8. ticking

    Hi there, i got me a problem. my xr400, about a week ago i heard a slight ticking in the right hand side of the head, the sound kept getting louder as i rode the bike to and from work. i figured it was the valves. so when it got loud enough to hear without listening for it i went in and checked valves for the first time in my life. did a fair job. in spec now. but as i didnt know much as it was my first time, in all my wisdom i turned the flywheel clockwise trying to find tdc. (Which isnt where it should be, not on the T marker) i heard a clicking/snapping noise when i did this, ive read now that it could have been the manual decomp? but now the noise is so loud its almost drowning out the idle. i checked the cam chain tensioner. its fully extended itself. is this my problem? or did i break something?
  9. My friend bought this 2012 TE310 with 3500 miles on it. It looked to be in good condition when I went with him to check it out, he got it home and has done about 100 miles on it running perfect and all of a sudden it quit when going down the highway. It would still start when he pulled over, but was making an aweful sound. Im not too familiar with huskys, so all I had checked was the oil when we got home to see if there were any shavings or anything in it. It was pretty low on oil but has nothing in it. By the sound of this video could someone point me in the right direction to what to check next. We are done for the night and I figured I could hopefully get some insight overnight on here.
  10. Hello All, Well, I came home with a 2013 RMZ250 today and I am super excited. This will be a project bike for me as the motor is currently locked up. I got this bike for such a good deal, I could not pass it up. I dont know much about it yet, but tomorrow, I will drain the oil and start opening up the sides of the engine to see what I can find. Since this is my first Suzuki, do you have any suggestions on where to start? Also, anyone have a 2013 Service manual? That would really help me out. Just wanted to start this thread as I am sure I will have numerous questions and you guys are the pros. Wish me luck and check back for updates. Cheers!
  11. Trying to figure out what I missed here. My starter spins freely after rebuilding the engine - new crank, bigbore. Everything is back together but when 'cranking' it over, the starter just spins free. I took off the starter cover held on by 3 phillips head bolts (fig 1 &3 ) and held on to the bushing on the starter gear train- directly located behind starter cover. This set of gears turned freely. So my starter teeth and sprocket teeth are not at fault. Next I turned the idler sprocket between this sprocket and the flywheel and this idler would turn freely clockwise but not rotate by hand counterclockwise CCW. Figure 3 - bottom center. I followed a thread on here of someone who had the same or similar symptoms. Following advice given to that poster, I removed the idler gear adjacent to flywheel and attempted to spin flywheel. This I can do in a clockwise direction but CCW provides much resistance. According to the arrow indicating the direction flywheel is suppose to turn (figure 2 bottom center) when running, I have something backwards. Anyone follow? What could I have done wrong here? Thank you
  12. Ok, we have discussed this kit quite a bit in here, but I am thinking it may be a good idea to put the information about this kit in one place. I think there is a possibility that we have actually had some bad info about how this kit would run on our CRF's, and that there actually may be more of a difference between the CRF and CBR than we thought. I have been doing my last minute research before buying a big bore kit, and feel that I may have come across some new info about this kit. First, let's talk about what we knew. 1. 305cc 2. 13:1 compression ratio 3. sport camshaft option Power estimates tended to be based on results from a Takegawa kit in a CBR, so there was much fog around actual results for our CRF's. Well, on Take's website there are some PDF's that were holding a little more info. Interestingly, there are some dyno numbers posted of their big bore kits running with and without the Take cams for the CBR and a seperate result for the CRF.. Here is a link to one of the PDF's: http://www.takegawa.co.jp/english/new_parts/1311_hyper_s_cbr_crf_e.pdf You will notice there are two dyno sheets. One for the CBR on the left, one for the CRF on the right. The difference is pretty significant. Both are 305cc. Both are using cams. CRF comes up short by about 7HP at peak power. But that is ok, Many of us had hopes of getting into the 30's horsepower wise with the Take kit, but honestly, it will take a bit more work with the head and valves, just as Positron and others have been saying. So the question about how those sport cams are profiled over stock cams has also been a big question mark. We already know that the CRF is tuned, from the factory, to have more low end grunt than the CBR. Now, there was another PDF I found that may add more info about how Takegawa is profiling the cams, but it only relates to the CBR. If you feel like they would profile the CRF and CBR cams similarly, you may be able to draw some conclusions from the pics below. Link for the CBR PDF: http://www.takegawa.co.jp/english/new_parts/1308_bore_up_cbr250r_e.pdf Below are two CBR dyno sheets from Takegawa. The one on the left is the same as the left image above, the one on the right has a comparison between the stock cams and the sport cams. You can see the red and blue lines carry from the left picture to the right, and the very nice green line in the right picture shows much needed info about how the big bore kit runs with the stock cams. Just as a few of you predicted, the sport cam profile pulls power from down low and just shifts it up to the higher RPMs. So. We now have a bit more info about the Takegawa kit that I had not seen posted before, and there was one more thing I wanted to share. The big bore kit, without cams, seems to go for around 510USD. The sport cams, they seem to be around 370USD. The tuner, whether Takegawas or another brand, will be around 200USD. Total: around 1080USD. If you are interested in buying the full Takegawa kit, they sell the "Hyper Bore Up Kit" which contains all that for around 933USD, as I found at: http://japan.webike.net/products/21421774.html Notice that there is a difference between the kits for the CBR and CRF. You can see the difference in the first PDF I linked earlier in the thread. Now, I am very interested to hear what you guys think about this, and if it does indeed introduce any new info.
  13. Hi guys, So I have a 2013 YZ450F, this weekend I pulled her out and she wouldn't start at all. I bumped started her and she ran fine, but would not kick start. I checked all connection, replaced the spark plug and tested the fuel pump. All is fine, I then pulled off the cam head and measured the clearances. The exhaust side is just out of spec, but the intake side cannot even take a 0.0020 gauge, The manual shows the spec should be within 0.0039-0.0059 in, what should my next step be as I would presume there is an issue as I have never had them loose of exhaust and tight on intake.
  14. 2009 YZF250 - Ex Dixon bike with the wet sump conversion. Stuck a bunch of quality hours on this thing the other weekend doing some enduro practice. Didn't skip a beat! Changed out the oil and filter, putoline - 850ml with filter change as recommended by someone off the dixon facebook page. Fresh airfilter. Didn't start it for a few days after the oil change as was late at night after service, warmed it up at trackside this weekend with no issues to get the oil flowing, checked pressure by removing the bolt, all fine... Killed it. Came back to the bike about 15 mins later started fine, rode literally about 100m (wasn't hanging around but not going mad) and she just died under load, instant death. I believe it locked up, hard to recall. Didn't feel right either-way, i've had bikes flame out on me (CRF450) and this was a bit different. Bike started OK afterwards, I sat there with it on idle for about 10 seconds, all good, gave it some throttle and it just came to an abrupt stop again, almost made a squeak when it stopped. Rolled back to pits, checked oil filter, was fully soaked, everything looked fine, rads weren't exactly hot but i'd only been riding for a short period, head was pretty hot to touch, crank didn't seem that hot - but then again i've never touched an engine after 4 minutes of running so I've no idea what sort of temp it should be haha. Bike started again fine after little inspection, idled OK. Sounded sweet, no rattles or bangs. Started to give it some throttle, rolling the revs and it just came to a screeching stop again. Kicked it in anger and it hasn't started again since. Gave it a little strip down last night, took valve cover off, all looks normal, valves are in spec still, took the carb off and had a look down the inlet, small little bits of something foreign in there and the tiniest of metal slivers sitting ontop of one of the valves. (By this point i'd already dropped oil and filter for inspection, nothing that looked out of place) Now the bike kicks over OK. Its never had the strongest of compression on kick, but its been a while since i've had a 250F. it does 'get hard' at certain points but its pretty easy to kick through these hard points normally just body weight will do it. Can any of you advise on moving forwards, i'm going to remove head and cylinder for inspection but i've never dug this deep into an engine before haha! Any thoughts or tips on things to look out for? Bike has a spark I should add, not that this really felt like a lack of ignition.
  15. Quick question... I had 150psi on old rings in my yz144 and just put in a new wiseco and TiN ring and kicked it over and got 120psi. I'm guessing I'll need a couple hours of break in time to see actual cold crank comp?
  16. Hello All I am in serious despair!, I have been waiting 6months to repair my crf450r 2012 after the big end breaking. I bought second hand left and right crankcases (from a 2012) and a hotrods stroker/cylinder works big bore kit from a eBay seller. this kit is advertised as bolt on!, after installation the piston locks just before TDC, after inspection I was shocked to see the the piston raises about 1mm above the cylinder ??? WTF!. I have searched the internet and found no other issues of this sort, I checked the boxes and they all say for a 2009-2012, the kit did have 2 base gaskets and 2 head gaskets :-k . any help would be much appreciated as the seller does not respond and I have no idea what I should do. thanks in advance, Lee
  17. First i want to thank everyone for their input into the vast amount of knowledge that can be found on this site. It makes life a bit easier and interesting for people like me. MY question is about fitting a ltz400(or klx400)cylinder head onto a drz400. I've searched the forum quite a bit and need to be sure a couple of things. 1. I've read that the ltz400 head is a direct fit for the drz but i would need to plug the manual decomp if i'm putting the cylinder head on a drz400s model. How exactly is this done?I'm assuming the ltz400 head has manual decomp 2.If i were to buy a ltz400 head to put onto a drz400s, would it make a difference whether i bought the assembly parts (cams,valves,shims,springs,etc) for the drz or for the ltz? 3.I've read that the klx400 head is a direct fit also. Is there a specific year klx400 that only fits? Thanks in advance for the responses!
  18. Hey Guys. I have a Honda XR 250r 1999 that i have just rebuilt. I got the piston and barrel done in a shop along with the valves. The bike is running well but has a issue with burning oil. The decompression valve on the engine was jammed but we managed to free it up but the bike has lacked compression since it was freed. I have no issue starting the bike but would a broken/stuck decompression valve be a reason behind the burning of the oil and lack of compression? I started with a synthetic oil but was advised to use a mineral so did a oil change and now have 20w-50 mineral in the bike but have seen no change.
  19. I'm looking for a motor builder that could sponsor me, something along those lines thats close to ohio. I currently race a yz 125.
  20. So my bike wont start. What happened was I got stuck in some "mud" (it was more like quicksand) and when I was trying to get out I was spinning the tire quite a bit and the engine seemed to be getting nice and toasty; I had been rock climbing trials sections all day so the bike was already pretty heat soaked. After a second or two of spinning my tire I let off the gas and the bike stopped idling and died. I let it sit for 20 minutes or so while I tried to pull it out and the oil cooler seemed to cool down quite a bit. So I kicked it and it started but wouldn't idle. Did it again and same problem. It was at this point I noticed the compression seemed pretty weak and that there was a lot of gas pouring out of my air box. The gas stopped when I turned the petcock off and started when I turned it on. I have read a lot online but haven't found anything that pertains to my bike specifically. I am taking the carb apart this weekend to see what the gas situation is but I am unsure what to do about the engine? Should I check valves or did I just break something? It is a 1986 with a 280 kit and maybe a cam don't know but it was done by xr's only by the previous owner.
  21. ive got a 1997 yz250 and it needs replating or boring. idk about it because ive always been able to go to the local machine shop and they can do it. can i do that or do i have to send it in somewhere?
  22. As we wrap up our final post on precision measuring for the at-home mechanic, I hope you have found this three part series on measuring helpful and informative. If you need a brush up or haven't gotten a chance to read Part 1 or Part 2, we compiled all three parts into a free guide for you. You can download your free copy by clicking here. This three part series comes right out of the book I published, The Four Stroke Dirt Bike Engine Building Handbook. I think you're going to love the in-depth knowledge and information provided in this book on four stroke dirt bike engine building. To learn more and order your copy click here. In this post I will be covering the final six precision measurement tools you have at your disposal. Each measurement tool in this post features a description of appropriate applications for the tool and a step-by-step tutorial on how to use it. This post is designed as a reference so that you can easily come back to it at any time as you become more comfortable using measurement tools during a rebuild. PLASTIGAUGE Plastigauge is one of the only measurement tools you won’t mind throwing away once you are done using it. Plastigauge is a measurement tool used to check the clearance between parts. The plastigauge consists of little strips of plastic which are inserted between two parts. Once assembled the plastic strip is compressed. The amount the strip compresses can be measured and correlated to a chart (supplied with the plastigauge) which defines the clearance for the measured compressed width of the strip. For engine building purposes plastigauge is ideal for checking clearances between engine components utilizing plain bearings. The plastigauge is a great tool for confirming clearance and measurements. Another plus is that unlike most other measuring tools, plastigauge is cheap! Plastigauge is usually sold in an assortment of sizes which cover multiple clearance ranges. Plastigauge strips will come in different diameters and each diameter will be capable of measuring a certain clearance range. Where to Use: Examples include cam to cam journal clearance, crank bearing to crankshaft journal clearance, and crank pin to rod bearing clearance. Calibrating Plastigauge Finally a measurement tool where no calibration is necessary. Just make sure you choose the appropriate size strip for your application. Also make sure the plastigauge is fairly new. Plastigauge does get old after awhile and using old plastigauge may not yield accurate results. Reading Plastigauge After the plastigauge has been compressed use a calipers to measure the width of the compressed strip. Record the width in your notebook. Then look at the clearance chart provided with the plastigauge to determine the clearance that corresponds to the measured width. Yes, it really is that simple. How To Use 1. Clean the parts being assembled 2. Insert a small strip of plastigauge between the parts being assembled. 3. Carefully lower the mating part down onto the plastigauge. Take great care to lower the part straight down so the plastigauge doesn’t move. 4. Install the fasteners used to secure the parts together. 5. Tighten the fasteners to the torque value recommended by the manufacturer. Follow any special tightening patterns that may apply 6. Carefully loosen the mated parts. Again, follow any special instructions for loosening provided by the manufacturer. 7. Remove the part. Check to see which part, if any, the plastigauge has stuck to. 8. Use a calipers to carefully measure the width of the plastigauge. 9. Refer to the chart provided with the plastigauge to determine the clearance which corresponds to the measured strip width. Tip: With a keen eye taper and out-of-roundness can also be spotted by using plastigauge. Keep an eye out for variations in strip width after it has been compressed for clues about the condition of the bore. DIAL INDICATOR A dial indicator measures variations in height by utilizing a plunger which travels up and down. As the plunger travels a dial gauge records the amount the plunger has moved. For engine building purposes a dial indicator is a handy tool to have when measuring valve lift and finding top dead center. There are a wide range of dial indicators on the market. Choosing the best one for engine building may be daunting if you’re not familiar with them. There are two main features you want to look for when selecting an indicator. The amount of travel the indicator has and the resolution of the indicator. Choose an indicator with around 1.0” (25mm) of travel which has a resolution of 0.001” (0.025mm). This type of indicator will work well for engine applications. In addition to the indicator getting a few accessories for the indicator will be beneficial. Most indicators are not sold with a base. Magnetic bases are really handy when setting the indicator up and provide a means of securing the indicator so it can’t move. Even when working with aluminum parts (ex. cylinder head) a magnetic base can be utilized by bolting a flat piece of steel to the aluminum part. Dial indicators usually come equipped with rounded contact points which are ideal for measuring flat surfaces. Occasionally you may encounter a setup which requires a different contact point. A variety of contact points are offered for indicators and having an assortment never hurts. Tip extensions are a must have if you plan on doing any deep depth work with the indicator. One situation which routinely requires a tip extension is when using the indicator to find top dead center of the piston. Tip extensions can be bought in multiple lengths. Where to use: Examples include measuring valve lift, and finding top dead center. Reading Dial Indicators Reading a dial indicator is very similar to reading a dial calipers. The only difference is the dial indicator’s gauge face is equipped with a second smaller dial face. For an indicator with a resolution of 0.001” the small face is divided into 10 graduations. Each graduation represents a tenth of an inch. The outer dial face is divided into thousandths of an inch. Each time the outer needle rotates one revolution around, the second small needle tallies a tenth of an inch. This eliminates the need for the user to keep track of how many times the needle has gone around. The total measurement is comprised of the number of tenths of an inch the smaller needle is indicating plus the number of thousandths the large needle is indicating. In the picture above the dial indicator reads _0.136". For metric and other resolutions of dial indicators the reading process is identical to the above. Take note of the units and resolution and proceed to read the indicator accordingly. Calibrating Dial Indicators Checking and adjusting the accuracy of dial indicators usually can’t be done easily in one’s own shop. For dial indicator calibration the indicator would have to be sent to a calibration lab. Fortunately, the applications an indicator is used for when building engines doesn’t require the utmost accuracy so calibration is seldom a problem. How To Use: 1. Clean the contact point of the indicator and the part which will be indicated. 2. Carefully set the indicator up so that it is fixed to a sturdy base which can’t move. 3. The amount of travel in each direction you will need depends on the specific application you are measuring. Consider the motion and travel of the part you want to measure and set the indicator accordingly so that it doesn’t run out of travel halfway through measuring. For example, when measuring valve lift you would want to engage the indicator so that around a quarter of the plungers travel has been used. 4. Square the spindle of the indicator being measured. The more square the indicator spindle is to the part the more accurate the readings will be. If the indicator is set at an angle to the direction of travel of the part the indicator will not read accurately. Keep this in mind and always try to set the indicator spindle as square as possible to the part being measured. 5. Zero the indicator by rotating the gauge face so the outer needle aligns with “0”. For example when measuring valve lift the zero point would be when the valve is fully closed. When checking runout the zero point may be a low or high point. 6. Move the part being indicated a few times returning it to its starting position each time. Check to make sure the indicator consistently reads “0”. If it doesn’t then carefully adjust the gauge face to realign the needle. 7. Once the indicator has been zeroed proceed to move the part being indicated and take measurements. 8. After measuring return the part to its original position. Occasionally an indicator can get bumped or something can happen during the procedure. This is a good way to confirm one last time that the indicator is still zeroed. DIAL TEST INDICATORS Dial test indicators are very similar to dial indicators, however their primary function is more as a comparative tool than a measurement tool. The main difference between a dial indicator and dial test indicator is the dial test indicator uses a contact point which pivots instead of a plunger that travels up and down. This pivoting action results in an arcing path instead of a straight up and down path. The test indicator is best suited for taking comparative measurements and zeroing runout. For engine building purposes this makes a pair of dial test indicators well suited for measuring the runout of a crankshaft. Just like dial indicators, test indicators are made with different lengths of travel and different resolutions. The most suitable resolution for crankshaft truing and inspection purposes is 0.0001” (0.0025mm). Most test indicators with a resolution of 0.0001” will have a travel of 0.008” (0.203mm) or 0.010” (0.254mm) which will be suitable for crankshaft inspection. The test indicators will require fixturing so having a pair of bases, stands, and clamps is necessary. Fortunately, the test indicators use similar mounting systems as dial indicators so if you have fixturing for dial indicators you are all set to mount the test indicators. Where to use: Examples include crankshaft inspecting or truing. Reading Dial Test Indicators The gauge face of a dial test indicator is symmetrical. The face is divided into graduations based on the resolution of the test indicator. Each side of the face represents half of the total travel of the test indicator. Reading the gauge is simply a matter of determining how many graduations the needle has moved from its starting point to its ending point. Calibrating Dial Test Indicators Like dial indicators, calibrating dial test indicators is usually done by a professional calibration lab. As long as the test indicator is well cared for the need for calibration should be infrequent. How To Use: Since the contact point of the test indicator travels in an arc the way the indicator is set up has an impact on measurement. This is the main reason test indicators can’t be relied on heavily for taking measurements and instead are used for comparing. 1. Clean the contact point of the indicator and the part which will be indicated. 2. Carefully set the indicator up so that it is fixed to a sturdy base which cannot move. 3. Most test indicators function best when the contact point is perpendicular to the direction of travel of the work piece. Some indicators differ slightly and should be set at a slight angle, so confirm with the instructions supplied with your test indicator to attain the correct orientation. 4. The majority of test indicators work best when the contact point is preloaded. As a rule of thumb a 1/10 - ¼ revolution of the needle is about right for setting preload. Instructions supplied with individual indicators may have specific preload instructions. 4. Rotate the part to find the high or low point. Zero the indicator by rotating the dial face so the needle aligns with “0”. 5. Move the part being indicated a few times returning it to its starting position each time. Check to make sure the indicator consistently reads “0”. If it doesn’t then carefully adjust the gauge face to realign the needle. 6. Once the indicator has been zeroed proceed to move the part being indicated and take measurements. 7. After measuring return the part to its original position. Occasionally an indicator can get bumped or something can happen during the procedure and this is a good way to confirm one last time that the indicator is still zeroed. TRANSFER GAUGES Transfer gauges are measurement tools which don’t yield a direct measurement. They are simply tools which can be used to transfer the dimensions of something requiring measurement to a measurement tool. There are two types of transfer measurement tools commonly used in engine building, small hole gauges and telescoping gauges. Transfer gauges can be tricky to use accurately for a couple reasons. First, they introduce a second source for error. Instead of taking a direct measurement the measured part must first be sized using a transfer gauge. Then the gauge must be measured by a measurement tool such as a micrometer. It is easy to see how mistakes can accrue in this situation. Second, transfer gauges rely heavily on feel to obtain accurate measurements. If the user of the gauge is unskilled, the transfer measurements could be all over the board. Taking these points into consideration transfer gauges can still be incredibly helpful when measuring engine parts. Transfer gauges are one of the most relied on methods of accurately measuring internal diameters. SMALL HOLE GAUGES Small hole gauges are used to transfer internal measurements usually less than ½” in diameter. A small hole gauge has a split in its head which allows the head to expand or contract to the size of the part being measured. An adjustment knob at the end of the handle is turned to expand or contract the head. The head on the gauge can either be a full or half sphere design. The half sphere designs have the advantage of being able to measure blind holes. Small hole gauges are usually sold in sets capable of measuring from around 0.125 - 0.500” (3.175 - 12.4mm). Each set is comprised of around four gauges with each gauge being able to measure a certain portion of the set’s total range. For engine building purposes, small hole gauges are primarily used to measure the inner diameters of valve guides. Where to use: Valve guides How to use: 1. Clean the bore of the part to be measured and the head of the small hole gauge. 2. Slowly turn the adjustment knob on the gauge expanding the head of the gauge inside the bore of the part being measured. 3. Simultaneously, gently rock the gauge back and forth and fore and aft inside the bore until the head of the gauge just starts to drag on the bore of the part. As you rock back and forth make sure the handle of the gauge passes through the point where the handle is square to the bore. 4. Remove the gauge. 5.Use a micrometer to measure the diameter of the gauge to determine the diameter of the part’s bore. Since the gauge can easily be compressed little to no pressure can be applied by the measuring faces of the micrometer. 6. Slide the gauge back and forth and fore and aft as you delicately tighten the ratchet or thimble of the micrometer. An accurate reading will be obtained when the micrometer just starts to drag against the gauge. Remember to measure perpendicular to the split in the gauge. 7. Lock the the spindle of the micrometer and read the micrometer to obtain the bore diameter. Hot Tip: Since this is partly an exercise of feel, take multiple measurements until the measurements start to yield the same results. This way you can be certain the measurements are accurate. TELESCOPING GAUGES Telescoping gauges are the big brothers of the small hole bore gauges. Telescoping gauges are shaped like a “T”. A tightening knob is situated at the handle end and it controls one or two spring loaded plungers (dependent on gauge type). Once the knob is loosened the plunger(s) expand outwards to capture the diameter of the bore being measured. The plunger ends are convex so the gauge can be rocked back forth to obtain the measurement. Telescoping gauges are usually sold in sets capable of measuring from around 0.3125 - 6.0” (8 - 152.4mm). Each set is comprised of around six gauges with each gauge being able to measure a certain portion of the set’s total range. Where to use: Examples include lifter bucket bore and cylinder bore. How to use: 1. Clean the bore of the part to be measured and the ends of the plungers on the telescoping gauge. 2. Set the gauge inside the bore with one plunger touching the side of the bore. 3. Slowly loosen the adjustment knob on the gauge handle expanding the plungers of the gauge inside the bore of the part being measured. http://www.thumpertalk.com/index.php?app=core&module=attach&section=attach&attach_rel_module=post&attach_id=231329 4. Set the gauge up so that the handle is just out of square with the bore. 5. Tighten the adjustment knob down. 6. Gently wiggle the gauge back and forth while passing the gauge through the bore. Only pass the gauge through the bore once. This will center the gauge and set the plungers to the diameter of the bore. http://www.thumpertalk.com/index.php?app=core&module=attach&section=attach&attach_rel_module=post&attach_id=231330 7. Clean both measuring faces. 8. Use a micrometer to measure the diameter of the gauge to determine the diameter of the part’s bore. Since the gauge can be compressed, little to no pressure can be applied by the measuring faces of the micrometer. 9. Slide the gauge back and forth and fore and aft as you delicately tighten the ratchet or thimble of the micrometer. An accurate reading will be obtained when the micrometer just starts to drag against the gauge. [series of pics showing measurement direction 10. Lock the the spindle of the micrometer and read the micrometer to obtain the bore diameter. Hot Tip: Since this is partly an exercise of feel, take multiple measurements until the measurements start to yield the same results. This way you can be certain the measurements are accurate. V-BLOCKS A V-block is a large precision machined metal block with a V in it. During an engine build V-blocks are used primarily for checking runout of cylindrical parts such as the crankshaft. http://www.thumpertalk.com/index.php?app=core&module=attach&section=attach&attach_rel_module=post&attach_id=231331 When shopping for V-blocks a precision ground matched set should be purchased. Fancy versions may come with magnetic bases, multiple Vs, clamps, or rollers. While some of these features are nice they certainly aren’t necessary and add to the cost. That wraps up our three part series on precision measuring for the at-home mechanic, thanks so much for reading! If you would like all this precision measuring information in one place so you can come back and easily reference it, we created a free guide for the ThumperTalk community that you can download right to your computer or phone. Click here and I'll email the The At-Home Mechanic's Guide To Precision Measurement right to you so you can have it organized in one place. If you are interested in owning a copy of The Four Stroke Dirt Bike Engine Handbook, you can learn more by clicking here. Thanks again for reading and feel free to leave a comment below! -Paul Olesen DIY Moto Fix | Empowering And Educating Riders From Garage To Trail.
  23. Hi All, I'm having a mental debate on whether or not to pick up a Gnarly and Turbinecore 2 for my YZ250x. I want more lug and chug, and plan on getting the RK TEK head as well as an exhaust kit. First I wanted a quality exhaust set up to boost the power across the full rpm range, while having a spark arrrestor to keep woods riding legal and safe. I'm getting mixed messages about the power gain(or lack of) from this combo. FMF Stated on the phone and email that "There is no gnarly specific to the YZ250X and it is the same as the pipe for the YZ250. However the Turbinecore 2 is specific for the YZ250X to work with the back pressure generated by this motor." So essentially my understanding is the gnarly would be a zero sum gain, just a tougher and shinier pipe, but the Turbinecore 2 would be a gain. The tech then went on to say I would get a power gain across the entire RPM range with the Turbinecore 2, but wouldn't say whether or not the Gnarly was any better than stock. Running a Lectron which is dialed perfectly for the bike, and overall the 250x package is fantastic just want some more grunt down low. Looking for individual experiences so far with exhaust changes on the X. thanks NEGbrap
  24. I bought the GYTR weighted flywheel and was actually reluctant to put it on fearing it would rob me of lowend, and make the bike feel lazy. So, I finally gave it a try, and wow, what a difference! In recent weeks I put on a ported cylinder, a shorty silencer, and dropped one tooth on the rear sprcket. None of which made a noticable improvement. Now on to the Flywheel weight. A friend who I ride with also has one on his bike and he is always so much smoother in the corners. He actually feared me puting in on! Well his feers were well founded. He now has the best view! From the instant I pulled away I could feel the difference. The bike actually felt 4-stroke like. Not necessarily a good thing in a two-stroke world but in a good way. Instead of blowing through the gears it wound-up like a wide ratio transmission (on the bottom) and didn't rob from the top. It was like I traded HP for torque on the bottom. My corner speed was NOTICIBLY faster in the first lap. Needless to say, for now I am sold and will leave it on!