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Found 600 results

  1. This noise is really bothering me. I want to know if it's something to worry about or not. I checked my valves they are in spec. Please Help!
  2. I just traded for a 2004 crf450r that has a bad crank. I am new to 4 strokes and their engines, so i am a bit scared to try to do this myself. If i were to send it to a dealership, about how much would that cost to get a crank replaced? And if i were to do it myself, would i need any specialty tools?
  3. Hey, 2 Weeks I bought a 2014 4 stroke Suzuki RMZ-250 and sometimes the bike struggles to start (hot and cold). One thing that is really strange, it's not possible to straight press down the kickstarter, I have to press to the half until the compression hits, and then back up and then Its possible to press it down. I know about the compression, which should make it easier to start the dirt bike, but here it completely blocks after the first half, its not even possible to push it down with one press. Not sure if this is normal for the 2014 model, with the 2017 model its possible to do it with one kick. As already mentioned the bike struggles to start sometimes, even when the engine is warm (this includes using choke when engine is cold and hot start when it's warm). Few days ago I've changed the oil and yesterday the gas + spark plug because the recent owner haven't used the bike for a year. I got a CR8EIA-10 spark plug, but still the bike struggles to start. There is no problem to start the bike by rolling down a hill and start it with the second gear, here everything works, but over time this is really annoying. My next guess would be to clean the air filter? But what should be my next steps, if the engine still struggles to start. Need your help guys. ~slei
  4. Is it possible to swap the working 110 taotao autoshift electric start from 4 wheeler into a manual shift kickstart taotao pitbike?? Looks like it has all the same mounting points.
  5. So when I'm riding my '98 200M/XC nothing seems wrong until you hit the powerband in 3rd and 4th gear. It seems like the engine is hitting a rev limiter, it's going full throttle and then dies and then back to full and dies. But as soon as it gets out of 3rd and 4th and I go into 5th, 6th, 2nd, or 1st, it's perfectly fine. Does anyone know what's causing this?
  6. I have a 2006 kx250f and was wonderingly if I could swap the engine for a 450f. Does anyone know if I could do this?
  7. hey guys, i am new to bikes and have been searching in the shadows but would like to become a member of the community. right now i have a cr125, both 1993 and 1999. they both are in bad shape and to know nothing about bikes, i know, i am in over my head but what better way to learn. the 1993 has all parts to get it running but im pretty sure when i put it back together i didnt get something right w the carb. i say that cause i see tube like hoses(pink in color) connected to a lot of you guys carbs and only thing connected to my carb is the tank and cord that goes to the clutch lever(i think thats where that cord goes) the 1999 is only a shell and suspension . no motor, carb, nothing! just mane/sub frame, suspension, arm, tires, tank, radiator, plastics. i got the 1993 for $300, and the 1999 for $100 so i dont mind putting money in it. i just need guidance on the technical stuff. i dont even know how to mix gas. a 4stroke may b better for me but hey.... long story longer, will my 93 motor fit in my 99? i read 99 motors are popular in the shifter community so they may b hard to come by. ebay mainly sells you cases separately and thats sketchy on matching up since idk wat im doing really. what motors will fit in easiest? i dont plan on racing, just learning moreso. i rode when i was in my teens(now 31) so i know the basics. just bought a house with a large wooded area behind my house and figured wth. I'll pose pics if u guys need. BTW- i live in Maryland so if anyone wanna stop pass and help me out....lol THANKS!
  8. I'm new to KTM's. Just bought a used 2011 SXF 450. It sounds different than other bikes I've had int he past. I just want to make sure there isn't anything out of the ordinary... peace of mind, really. The sound I'm hearing is more significant on the right side of the bike. There is no knocking or ticking from what I can tell, just a noisier engine then I'm used to. I hear KTM's have a thinner engine case, so maybe that's why. I also hear the timing chain tensioner tends to be an issue with these bikes. Please take a listen to the video and let me know what you think. Thanks!
  9. So I have been having a good close look at the pro / expert class riders bikes in endurox, EWC, GNCC, etc and don't see many (none..?) using a recluse style auto clutch. Are they hiding it or just not using one?
  10. So I just got my cylinder back from Millenium/Forward Motion I am a little disappointed at what they returned to me. I tried calling them to talk to them about it but they are out for the holidays for now so I will have to try back next week. I paid to have the cylinder re-plated, power valve cleaned, and for the cylinder to be ported with the "mo-betta" setup, and the cylinder head fixed up. Upon opening the boxes and inspecting everything I have several problems with what I see. 1. I first realized that they have done absolutely nothing with the cylinder head. I am not sure if that is because it was un-repairable or what but I never received a call or anything about it. This is aggravating because if they had called and told me the cylinder head was not repairable I would have ordered a new one and would have it ready to go for when the cylinder came back. Now I have to make another order and wait some more. 2. Part of this service includes cleaning of the power valve. The flappers that go in the exhaust ports were cleaned well then dumped the in the bag with the greasy old parts. All the rest of the pieces of the power valve such as the actuator arm and the parts exposed underneath the RC valve cover were left completely un-touched. If I pay for power valve servicing doesn't that include all the components??? 3. Third the amount of 2-stroke gunk mixed with what seemed like blasting abrasive that was still stuck in the power valve. So much in fact that it would have been impossible to push the shaft all the way through due to a large clump of crap stuck up in there. It took me about 15 minutes with some small pics to get all the crap freed up and out of there. Again I paid for a service here and the job was not complete! 4. Now once I started looking and inspecting the ports to see what was done I am surprised to see more 2-stroke gunk mixed with blasting abrasives stuck up inside the intake ports. After seeing that I am now wondering if my cylinder was even ported in the first place. How could he have even done the port work with chunks of crap hanging off the intake ports?? Here are some pictures of what I am talking about. If you look at the pictures of the ports you can see brown crap stuck to the walls in there. For the amount of money I just spent this is pretty disappointing. All the gunk I had to scrape from the power valve. Intake Ports Exhaust Port
  11. THIS ADVERT HAS EXPIRED!

    • FOR SALE
    • USED

    So I am reducing my Inventory , and getting all the paperwork straight. I took the bike in trade, used it to ride the Utah Adventure Trail, and some MCCCT in Michigan, but guy I got it from, was the son, owner was his dad, now dead - and long story short, to get it legal here in California, would require more money than it is worth. So I'm parting it out. Complete nice strong running engine - minus Carb - 700 - that is the complete price including shipping here in the USA. I put it in an ice chest and send it to you. I have the Carb modification by Bill Blue, selling the carb setup - 250 (shipped) (new from Bill is 400 bucks) Carb has 20 hours on it. Complete Factory Exhaust including sparky - 350 shipped wheel set - front or back, including new tires 125 each shipped plastics faded but solid, suspension all good, electrics, has a tusk light setup on it, etc. the whole bike has to go, parted out or as a whole unit Make me an offer.

    $700.00

  12. THIS ADVERT HAS EXPIRED!

    • FOR SALE
    • NEW

    i have a freshly rebuilt never fired 2001 honda cr125r engine. has fresh standard bore top end, also new crank and trans has been gone through can text or email pics verifying it is all new and never used. no stress cracks or welds on the cases this is a complete ready to go motor. ready to swap in or use parts off of. be perfect for a back up motor. i have this and several other parts as well like a frame subframe brake componets much more. please comment or message me for pics or information and we can work out a deal. lot of money spent on this. i had this plus almost a complete parts bike so i could have ready to go parts for my personal cr125r. make me a offer and i will ship. just comment or message me. thanks!

    $800.00

  13. Hi, everyone. I'm new here, so please pardon me if this is against the rules in some way. To get straight to the point, there is a big bore kit I would like to buy, but I need partners to go in with me. A little background on my project: I started with a 1992 TW200, and using the conversion information from users of tw200forum.com, I began to make a TW250. First I changed out the transmission, clutch, and crankshaft, among other things, with those from the 225 line from Yamaha (TTR225, TTR230, XT225). Then, when planning the top end, I came to know about Engines Only, otherwise known as XR100.com, who make performance upgrades for a selection of dirt bikes, one of which is the TTR230 (http://www.xr100.com/ttr230.htm). For those of you unfamiliar, the TW200/125/225, and the XT/TTR 225 series, as well as some ATVs, have many interchangeable engine parts, so the kit offered for the TTR230 on his site could potentially be a bolt-on upgrade to those bikes listed above (any below 225cc will probably have to have crankcase hole enlarged), and the piston alone could be a stock-bore, high-compression upgrade for an 08-12 XT250 with 16mm pin (call him to ask about clearances). The problem, and reason I'm coming to you for help, is that he has had very few customers wanting the kit lately, and is considering discontinuing it. His custom pistons are the key to the whole project, because they are the only 74mm Yamaha piston available with a 16mm wrist pin, and a compression ratio of 11.5:1 (stock is 9.5:1), and apparently, they only need 91 octane. The place he gets them requires a minimum batch of 4, so if I can't get enough people together, he probably won't consider ordering. I've posted this here, TW200Forum, and AdvRider in an attempt to round up a group of buyers, and to drum up business for the seller, because he's a nice guy. If you would like to ask questions, I'll answer what I can through PM, but you can also call or email him through his website: http://www.xr100.com Thanks everyone, and nice to meet you, John.
  14. I have recently done a lot of maintenance to my WR 450f and there are still some issues which concern me with it, when I took out the clutch basket there was a gear with a bent piece on it (picture attached) This was probably done by the previous owner but I think it should probably be replaced? - When I checked the valves they were only opened for measuring when the knob things were pointed down instead of up, (picture attached) I dont know if the timing is messed up or if it has been retarded to the yz specs. ( the picture of the cam chain was when the valves were open, at the same time as the knob things were downwards in the other picture). -There is also a clattering noise from the engine but it seems to run fine? I will try to make a video for mine soon but it sounds pretty much like this persons - sorry about the bad pictures.
  15. I've seen this topic pop up a few times, so I thought I would share my findings. Just over 12 months ago I finished off my 440-kitted XR400 that was fitted with brand-new Kibblewhite valve springs, titanium retainers, Wiseco/Hot-rods 400EX crankshaft (love the electric start!), Kibblewhite black diamond valves (standard size) and a stage 3 Hotcam. I used a 4-play 440 kit from eBay that came with a pre-bored cylinder, a Wiseco 11:1 89mm piston and a Cometic gasket set. I had the head reconditioned and fitted with new stem seals and springs at my local machine shop. The head had a very slight mark from the head gasket firing ring so it was skimmed 5 thou, media blasted to clean it up, valve seats recut and then reassembled. Aside from this I did the rest of the assembly myself on my bench, following the workshop manual instructions for setting up the stud heights in the cylinder. I reused my old studs and rockers on the new assembly. I then got the motor running, eventually swapped over to a Mikuni BSR42 and took it out hard trail riding and commuting on the bike as my sole transport for the last 12 months. I have clocked up 260 hours/12,000km on the XR in that time, doing anything from very tight trails banging the bars off trees to hours on end sitting at 110-115km/h (70mph). I average about 5L per 100km (47mpg) with mixed riding as a commuter. In that time the bike was severely overheated once on the trail from hell (we managed 2km in 4 hours), to the point where the oil started to burn and smoke out the breather. It was quite down on compression after that, it turns out it had a partially blown head gasket. It still pulled very hard though! Which brings us to now. These photos are after the head and piston went back into the machine shop for a clean up. Unfortunately I don't have any before pictures due to time constraints except the first one (I am in the process of moving whilst rebuilding the XR). The piston has had a light buff on a wire wheel to remove carbon, the head has been stripped, valve seats recut (they were showing wear - to be expected after 260 hours of use. Especially considering it spent a lot of time >8000rpm!), new stem seals fitted and bead blasted once again. The bore has been honed and was found to be 2 thou out of round. This is somewhat to be expected given how severely it was overheated. Total cost to bring this motor back up to spec was $250AUD including all machine work & a set of rings and it's ready to go for it's next big trip - a 20,000km trip around Australia If anyone has any questions regarding building a 440, the electric start conversion or otherwise I'll be happy to help. I'll hopefully have some photos & video of the bike up soon once it has been edited. Night and day difference between a stock XR! Camshaft is showing a little discolouration but has no scoring or gouges that can be felt by hand - I was expecting more wear than this. 260 hour old piston. Broken in hard! Note: Piston has had a clean before this photo but the skirts are un-touched. Top of the piston after a quick de-carbon. It will be replaced at next tear down. Piston has some marks from blow-by past the rings but isn't showing any signs of fracturing or scoring. Reassembled for round two Head cleaned up and ready to refit. I have no idea why one of the valves is a different colour either - it's how I got them from Kibblewhite. So there you have it - 12,000km/260 hours in 12 months. $250AUD and it's ready to rock again. Aside from replacing 2 sets of friction plates I have not had to touch the motor aside from normal maintenance.
  16. Has a Wiseco top end, v force 3 reeds, 11oz Steahly fly wheel weight, FMF Gnarly exhaust, and a FMF powercore 2 silencer. This is one of the best dirt bikes I've ever owned and ridden. It's a bullet proof motor and it's never left me stranded or gave me any problems. I'm planning on getting a Lectron carburator or a Smartcarb carburetor because I hear they are like fuel injection for a 2 stroke.
  17. Hello, I am looking for a used 125cc dirt bike. I am puzzeled because I do not know what I want, what would you guys recommend and why would you recommend it. Also where could I get performance mods, specifically suspension and which of the bikes have the most tuning capabilities. I've narrowed my choices down to Kawasaki kx,Honda cbr/xr, Yamaha yz, and Suzuki rm around the 2000-2005 range. I'd rather hear from people who owned one of the bikes but advice from any of the experts is welcome P.S I'm sorry for any mistakes like the wrong "sub forum" or grammar as I'm on mobile
  18. ticking

    Hi there, i got me a problem. my xr400, about a week ago i heard a slight ticking in the right hand side of the head, the sound kept getting louder as i rode the bike to and from work. i figured it was the valves. so when it got loud enough to hear without listening for it i went in and checked valves for the first time in my life. did a fair job. in spec now. but as i didnt know much as it was my first time, in all my wisdom i turned the flywheel clockwise trying to find tdc. (Which isnt where it should be, not on the T marker) i heard a clicking/snapping noise when i did this, ive read now that it could have been the manual decomp? but now the noise is so loud its almost drowning out the idle. i checked the cam chain tensioner. its fully extended itself. is this my problem? or did i break something?
  19. My friend bought this 2012 TE310 with 3500 miles on it. It looked to be in good condition when I went with him to check it out, he got it home and has done about 100 miles on it running perfect and all of a sudden it quit when going down the highway. It would still start when he pulled over, but was making an aweful sound. Im not too familiar with huskys, so all I had checked was the oil when we got home to see if there were any shavings or anything in it. It was pretty low on oil but has nothing in it. By the sound of this video could someone point me in the right direction to what to check next. We are done for the night and I figured I could hopefully get some insight overnight on here.
  20. Hello All, Well, I came home with a 2013 RMZ250 today and I am super excited. This will be a project bike for me as the motor is currently locked up. I got this bike for such a good deal, I could not pass it up. I dont know much about it yet, but tomorrow, I will drain the oil and start opening up the sides of the engine to see what I can find. Since this is my first Suzuki, do you have any suggestions on where to start? Also, anyone have a 2013 Service manual? That would really help me out. Just wanted to start this thread as I am sure I will have numerous questions and you guys are the pros. Wish me luck and check back for updates. Cheers!
  21. Trying to figure out what I missed here. My starter spins freely after rebuilding the engine - new crank, bigbore. Everything is back together but when 'cranking' it over, the starter just spins free. I took off the starter cover held on by 3 phillips head bolts (fig 1 &3 ) and held on to the bushing on the starter gear train- directly located behind starter cover. This set of gears turned freely. So my starter teeth and sprocket teeth are not at fault. Next I turned the idler sprocket between this sprocket and the flywheel and this idler would turn freely clockwise but not rotate by hand counterclockwise CCW. Figure 3 - bottom center. I followed a thread on here of someone who had the same or similar symptoms. Following advice given to that poster, I removed the idler gear adjacent to flywheel and attempted to spin flywheel. This I can do in a clockwise direction but CCW provides much resistance. According to the arrow indicating the direction flywheel is suppose to turn (figure 2 bottom center) when running, I have something backwards. Anyone follow? What could I have done wrong here? Thank you
  22. Ok, we have discussed this kit quite a bit in here, but I am thinking it may be a good idea to put the information about this kit in one place. I think there is a possibility that we have actually had some bad info about how this kit would run on our CRF's, and that there actually may be more of a difference between the CRF and CBR than we thought. I have been doing my last minute research before buying a big bore kit, and feel that I may have come across some new info about this kit. First, let's talk about what we knew. 1. 305cc 2. 13:1 compression ratio 3. sport camshaft option Power estimates tended to be based on results from a Takegawa kit in a CBR, so there was much fog around actual results for our CRF's. Well, on Take's website there are some PDF's that were holding a little more info. Interestingly, there are some dyno numbers posted of their big bore kits running with and without the Take cams for the CBR and a seperate result for the CRF.. Here is a link to one of the PDF's: http://www.takegawa.co.jp/english/new_parts/1311_hyper_s_cbr_crf_e.pdf You will notice there are two dyno sheets. One for the CBR on the left, one for the CRF on the right. The difference is pretty significant. Both are 305cc. Both are using cams. CRF comes up short by about 7HP at peak power. But that is ok, Many of us had hopes of getting into the 30's horsepower wise with the Take kit, but honestly, it will take a bit more work with the head and valves, just as Positron and others have been saying. So the question about how those sport cams are profiled over stock cams has also been a big question mark. We already know that the CRF is tuned, from the factory, to have more low end grunt than the CBR. Now, there was another PDF I found that may add more info about how Takegawa is profiling the cams, but it only relates to the CBR. If you feel like they would profile the CRF and CBR cams similarly, you may be able to draw some conclusions from the pics below. Link for the CBR PDF: http://www.takegawa.co.jp/english/new_parts/1308_bore_up_cbr250r_e.pdf Below are two CBR dyno sheets from Takegawa. The one on the left is the same as the left image above, the one on the right has a comparison between the stock cams and the sport cams. You can see the red and blue lines carry from the left picture to the right, and the very nice green line in the right picture shows much needed info about how the big bore kit runs with the stock cams. Just as a few of you predicted, the sport cam profile pulls power from down low and just shifts it up to the higher RPMs. So. We now have a bit more info about the Takegawa kit that I had not seen posted before, and there was one more thing I wanted to share. The big bore kit, without cams, seems to go for around 510USD. The sport cams, they seem to be around 370USD. The tuner, whether Takegawas or another brand, will be around 200USD. Total: around 1080USD. If you are interested in buying the full Takegawa kit, they sell the "Hyper Bore Up Kit" which contains all that for around 933USD, as I found at: http://japan.webike.net/products/21421774.html Notice that there is a difference between the kits for the CBR and CRF. You can see the difference in the first PDF I linked earlier in the thread. Now, I am very interested to hear what you guys think about this, and if it does indeed introduce any new info.
  23. Hi guys, So I have a 2013 YZ450F, this weekend I pulled her out and she wouldn't start at all. I bumped started her and she ran fine, but would not kick start. I checked all connection, replaced the spark plug and tested the fuel pump. All is fine, I then pulled off the cam head and measured the clearances. The exhaust side is just out of spec, but the intake side cannot even take a 0.0020 gauge, The manual shows the spec should be within 0.0039-0.0059 in, what should my next step be as I would presume there is an issue as I have never had them loose of exhaust and tight on intake.
  24. 2009 YZF250 - Ex Dixon bike with the wet sump conversion. Stuck a bunch of quality hours on this thing the other weekend doing some enduro practice. Didn't skip a beat! Changed out the oil and filter, putoline - 850ml with filter change as recommended by someone off the dixon facebook page. Fresh airfilter. Didn't start it for a few days after the oil change as was late at night after service, warmed it up at trackside this weekend with no issues to get the oil flowing, checked pressure by removing the bolt, all fine... Killed it. Came back to the bike about 15 mins later started fine, rode literally about 100m (wasn't hanging around but not going mad) and she just died under load, instant death. I believe it locked up, hard to recall. Didn't feel right either-way, i've had bikes flame out on me (CRF450) and this was a bit different. Bike started OK afterwards, I sat there with it on idle for about 10 seconds, all good, gave it some throttle and it just came to an abrupt stop again, almost made a squeak when it stopped. Rolled back to pits, checked oil filter, was fully soaked, everything looked fine, rads weren't exactly hot but i'd only been riding for a short period, head was pretty hot to touch, crank didn't seem that hot - but then again i've never touched an engine after 4 minutes of running so I've no idea what sort of temp it should be haha. Bike started again fine after little inspection, idled OK. Sounded sweet, no rattles or bangs. Started to give it some throttle, rolling the revs and it just came to a screeching stop again. Kicked it in anger and it hasn't started again since. Gave it a little strip down last night, took valve cover off, all looks normal, valves are in spec still, took the carb off and had a look down the inlet, small little bits of something foreign in there and the tiniest of metal slivers sitting ontop of one of the valves. (By this point i'd already dropped oil and filter for inspection, nothing that looked out of place) Now the bike kicks over OK. Its never had the strongest of compression on kick, but its been a while since i've had a 250F. it does 'get hard' at certain points but its pretty easy to kick through these hard points normally just body weight will do it. Can any of you advise on moving forwards, i'm going to remove head and cylinder for inspection but i've never dug this deep into an engine before haha! Any thoughts or tips on things to look out for? Bike has a spark I should add, not that this really felt like a lack of ignition.