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Found 36 results

  1. Greets to all. I'm about to install an Athena BB kit on my S. Kit comes with a single layer base gasket an gives 12.3:1 compression ratio. I've been thinking about bumping up the compression a bit. No budget available for a hi-comp piston, so I was thinking of machining the cylinder face down a couple of tenths of a millimeter. I have access to machinery needed for the task, so cost is out of the question. Will check piston-to-deck height and all before proceeding. My main concern is the nikasil coating, actually the point it "finishes" at the top of the bore. There's a chamfer right there, measures over half a mm high, so could easily be ok. But I need confirmation, wouldn't want to ruin my BB. Anyone done that before? Any problems with it? Thanks in advance. Lefteris.
  2. Time Left: 12 days and 16 minutes

    • FOR SALE
    • USED

    I have a complete set of turn signals off of a 2000 DRZ400s. They're all in good condition except one which has partially melted plastic underneath. Doesn't affect functionality

    $30.00

  3. Drz400 gas tank

    Time Left: 12 days and 12 minutes

    • FOR SALE
    • USED

    This is off a 2000 DRZ400s. It's in great condition. The locking gas cap is missing the key and therefore I cannot get it off. I will try to pick the lock sometime soon.

    $100.00

  4. Alright im going to try and be as detailed as possible. Last road my 2001 DRZ400S in september, did an atv dirt bike ride with a group and it was about 40 miles of nothing but off road. crashed a few times and broke left rear turn signal. replaced the left rear signal, didnt get the chance to ride it since due to military stuff and leave. let the battery die on it and tried to jump it, jumped it and after a 5-10 minutes of cranking trying to get it running it finally kicked on but it ran very rough. lots of popping and back firing and would only stay running if i held the throttle half open and still connected to the jumping vehicle. came to conclusion that the battery was done. ordered new battery (BikeMaster TruGel MG7B-4). Got it in put it in the bike and tried to fire and it would just turn over and over but wouldnt start. exhaust would thump as the engine turned. pulled the spark plug and it was black, changed the plug to a new one, gapped right, checked for spark and got it put that in and it would still just turn over and over and not fire, still thumping from the exhaust. drained the carb, new gas. pulled the plug again and it was dry, put some gas on it and tried to fire again and same result. decided to pull the carb, jets were all junked up changed them out with MSR Carburetor kit from motorcycle superstore, only jet i didnt change was the secondary air jet that the diaphragm and needle sit on as it was clean, put the carb back together following the specs in the manual. put the carb back in the bike and same result, it would turn over and over, same thump from the exhaust but would not fire but there were times where it sounded like it was about to start (turned over faster and sound changed) but it never started and would only turn over. checked the plug again and it was still dry, still got spark, put more fuel on the plug again and same result. not sure what else to check but i hope one of yall out there can give me some advice to fix this. weather is too nice not to ride.
  5. Feeling the need to make my DRZ400sm more dirt worthy. I still need to commute, errand, adv, general everyday use. Was strongly considering going to a 2.5" (max) wide 19" front rim for better dirt-worthy steering especially in sandy situations. Currently on Shinko 705's and OE 17's. The rear is fine, the front is not. I have bicycle wheel building background so I was going to rebuild a 19" rim to the OE hub with new spokes and nipples. Questions: Does anyone here have any experience on any bike with a 19/17 combo? Love to hear. Can you really use a rear 19" mx wheel and re-lace it to the front hub?
  6. Hey there! I'm looking for a FCR39 to put in my 2016 DRZ400sm. I find it hard to find info on this topic. I want to max out the power on my bike and keep it reliable. I work for a Arctic Cat dealer and i have 3 clients how are looking to do the same on there bikes. can you guys help guide me? thanks
  7. WTB Stock DRZ 400 E Header

    Time Left: 7 days and 5 hours

    • WANTED
    • USED

    I am looking for a clean DRZ400 E Stock exhaust. Will pay for shipping.

    $100.00

  8. First i want to thank everyone for their input into the vast amount of knowledge that can be found on this site. It makes life a bit easier and interesting for people like me. MY question is about fitting a ltz400(or klx400)cylinder head onto a drz400. I've searched the forum quite a bit and need to be sure a couple of things. 1. I've read that the ltz400 head is a direct fit for the drz but i would need to plug the manual decomp if i'm putting the cylinder head on a drz400s model. How exactly is this done?I'm assuming the ltz400 head has manual decomp 2.If i were to buy a ltz400 head to put onto a drz400s, would it make a difference whether i bought the assembly parts (cams,valves,shims,springs,etc) for the drz or for the ltz? 3.I've read that the klx400 head is a direct fit also. Is there a specific year klx400 that only fits? Thanks in advance for the responses!
  9. Hey Thumper Talk community I've been all over the forums trying to find out what is going on with my 09 drz400sm clutch. So during the end last riding season I noticed my clutch lever started feeling poor. Just didn't give a very good feel but still functioned just fine. I thought the lever just needed to be adjusted. So in preparing for this up coming riding season here in Minnesota I started to adjust my clutch lever. No matter how I adjusted it at the lever/perch/cable area I could not get it dialed in. I then proceed to work on the clutch arm and see if that was the problem. From what I was reading the clutch throwout post needs to be rotated all the way counterclockwise, then the arm place in either the original position or parallel to the bike. I feel like I have tried every position and every time it leads little to no room in the cable to adjust it at the perch and wont fully disengage the transmission. The clutch lever has great feel but no slack in the line and will barely allow me to rotate the rear tire while the lever is in and in gear.(not fully disengaging) I started to think something inside the clutch was wrong even though it worked fine last season. I followed this clutch inspection guide and everything is in tolerance. I'm kind of stumped. I even tried to put everything back to how it was last season to see if i could get something but no luck. I have zeta levers and a replacement cable (original cable snapped). Both worked fine in the past. Let me know if you have any suggestions. I appreciate your time. -Justin
  10. Time Left: 5 days and 10 hours

    • FOR SALE
    • USED

    Clarke tank, stock tank, stock seat, Yoshimura RS3 slip-on and lots of plastic for sale. All was on 2005 DRZ400SM. All in great condition as it was on a street bike that never was laid down. Sold the bike 5 years ago, had switched out all plastic out for white. See picture and message me for pricing on any item in photo and/or more photos. I'm in the Modesto, CA area. Items can be shipped at an added cost. Payment via cash or PayPal gift/friend.

    $1.00

  11. So I'm pretty new to carb bikes, I used to have a CBR-600rr and decided I wanted a supermoto. I have read the repetitive topics concerning leaving your bike on prime but no answer as to why my bike is ok, everyone seems to have problems. One day I was in the trails and my bike tipped over and wouldn't start, so I set the pet cock to prime and it started fine and I rode/left it sitting like that for 3 weeks because I went to Florida. When I came back I shit myself when I noticed I left it on prime, the bike wouldn't start but was cranking. Eventually I killed the battery trying different choke settings and decided to try to push start it and it started right up. It wasn't idling high like the choke setting was set to but after riding it around for the day it was fine. I let it cool and it started fine. Why does my bike seem ok after what is supposed to be a horrible mess up? Does anyone know the science behind why it wouldn't start at all choked but started fine when I pushed it?
  12. Brand new rider here just picked up my DRZ400 sm yesterday. Got a part with the owners manual have no idea what it is or does. Help?
  13. I'll try and give the timeline as best I can. Got a good deal months back on a bike that had cold start issues, well starting issue in general but it got better while warm. Had some issue idling but it ran really strong when you got it up to speed. Tried cleaning the stock carb multiple times (ultrasonic cleaned twice, once by me, once by a shop) and it didn't really solve much. Checked valves and they're in spec, which it should have been for having 9k miles. Don't get me wrong, bike ran well but wasn't reliable enough while starting that I didn't trust riding outside of my local area. Bit the bullet and bought an FCR MX39 which was my plan anyways, and that solved quite a bit of the issues, but brought up more. Start is better but it still takes a while, especially when cold. Idle is steady but will drop and die if too low. I occasionally get this loud pop while trying to start, like gun shot pop. I also now have this hanging idle issue when decelerating or coming to a stop. I can fix it by blipping the throttle which then makes the idles drop. If my idle is set too low, it will drop too low and stall. From my research I think it's a vacuum issue, which is weird cause the tubes are all there and the petcock vacuum is plugged. Took the throttle cables off to see if they were sticking and causing the issue but the video proves that's not true. I also checked for any air leaks near the boots, not it. Pulled the carb last night and only checked the slide but noticed this wearing on the top right corner and this super odd bubbling on the pressure plate. For the start issues I've heard bad CDI, but I'm not sure. Anyone have any suggestions or help they could provide? I promise a beer on me if I'm ever in your area! Video 1: https://drive.google.com/open?id=0By7xlw5wWOLHRVNfbGhCcUxmWXc Video 2: https://drive.google.com/open?id=0By7xlw5wWOLHaFVrRnlXcVpQSFE
  14. Im looking to paint my stock DRZsm400 chain guide, and Yoshi RS2 Exhaust cover black and possibly kickstand. I believe the yoshi cover is made of some sort of steal as i was able to clean the previous owners paint job off with a bench grinder brush and polish it up, and I believe the chain guide is made of aluminum or something else similar and light. After A black base coat (Doesnt need to be glossy, but i want to match the look of black plastics as much as possible) , i would like to accentuate the yoshi lettering on the exhaust and windows on the chain guide with a thin layer or "stroke" of red. I have almost no experience with painting things but they are small so I think it should be relatively simple. I need the paint job to stand up to 85% road driving and 15% backroad/fireroad/light trail riding. Questions: What would be my best option for the black base color, simple as rustoleum or is there powder coat in a can i can get that will be much more durable and aesthetically pleasing, is something as extreme as por15 or something similar a good idea? I plan on hand painting the red outlines, what type of paint will be durable enough to withstand heat and small debris? Is there a good clearcoat I can/should finish with to keep it from wear and tear? Price isnt really an issue just quality/experience/fun. Would I just be better off having a shop do it?
  15. Hey all, just got a DRZ-400 yesterday and absolutely love it. Today I took it out for a ride and when I got back I noticed the tire was leaking from the valve. I looked on the other posts here about leaking valve stems but all of their leaks are coming from the top. The leak on mine is coming from where the stem meets the rim right under the nut. Can I put sealant there to patch the leak? Or what can I do to fix it? Thanks!
  16. I recently bought a new set of plastics from UFO and a graphics kit from MAXcross.... Needless to say the graphics look like crap because the alignment is terrible. I'm looking for recommendations on graphics that fit with UFO plastics. Also, was wondering if anyone knew of anywhere that install them as well? I figure there are a few people like myself that have been down this road several times and just wondered if someone had any good experiences with a certain company that will cut for certain plastics or even install. Thanks in advance. -Nick
  17. Hello all, I apologize if this question has been asked already, I have spent the last 30 minutes trying to find an answer to my question to no avail. So here we go: I decided to get my factory wheels powder coated (just the hubs, spokes, and nipples) to help jazz things up a bit. I sent the wheels out to my powder coat guy, he is a huge Suzuki guy and is a factory certified Suzuki technician as well as an MMI graduate with perfect attendance. The guy really knows his stuff. However he is more of a GSXR specialist and doesn't mess with dirt bikes too much. So after coating the wheels he sent them to the local Suzuki dealership to have them re-assembled and trued. I'm not sure how much these guys know about DRZ's as they are more of a Yamaha/Kawasaki heavy dealership but they do sell a few Suzuki's (This is the same place I bought my sm brand new) and the guy who laced the wheels is a big name in the local motocross scene. Anyways; my guy got them back, called me, and I picked them up and installed them on my bike immediately. After putting the bike back together I immediately noticed my chain was now rubbing my tire. I did some research and came to the conclusion (educated guess is probably more accurate) that the wheel offset is incorrect. I'm not really the most comfortable attempting to fix this myself but I figure it has to go back regardless if I don't, so I might as well try and take a stab at it. I contacted my guy and he said he verified that the wheel is true and that the hub was perfectly center when he received it back from the dealership. However, I have read on Supermotojunkie that the DRZ has a right side offset from the factory and am wondering it that's what the issue is. If that is true, does anyone know what the offset is supposed to be? Or how I can determine what it should be? Also will I be able to get away with just using a spoke wrench to try and tackle this by myself? The bike has stunt pegs so I was just gonna disconnect the chain and set it up on jack stands to use the swing arm and axle as a "truing stand". Also, any other things to look for that might suggest it's not an offset issue? I added a new chain and sprocket as well but the chain is a 520 chain just like the stock one and the sprocket is a steel sprocket as before as well, so I doubt it's any different in thickness. It came from Supersprox and is nice and beefy. Thank you all in advance for your help! Any information is appreciated.
  18. so i picked up 2 (what i believe to be) fcr 39 carbs. the guy said he think they came from a 06-09 Yamaha 450 quad, if i can make them work great! if not then oh well ill resell them. here are the number i pulled from the carbs 5TG1-00SC01 5TG1-00RG01 i know there is a convirsion kit on TT, is that all that would be needed?
  19. Run 1 is a 2013 Drz400sm with 3x3 mod, FCR carb, and yoshi exhaust. (32.45 HP) Run 6 is my personal bike 2006 Drz400s (64.66 HP) -Myers Racing 94mm big bore kit -Myers Racing +4mm stroker crank -Myers Racing stage 3+ Cylinder head (Moldstar90 valve seats, Bronze valve guides, Stage 3 port) -Web cam (MR grind) -Ferrea valves (+1mm all 4) -Isotropic treatment on transmission -43.5mm FCR carb -K&N filter
  20. Hi everyone, I am curently building my bike for light adventure riding. I am making a contraption that I would like to call a rally fairing. I am showing you what I have made so far. For the build; - oversize GPI racing radiators - oversize gaz tank - fuel pump - swapping the speedometer by a vapor - custom made bracket for fairing - fiberglass fairing/windsheild I have not adressed the wide ratio issue since I just completely rebuild the engine last winter. I got a 39 teeth sproket for highway speed. I have no experience whatsoever with fiberglass, any input would be apreciated. Thanks for the interest.
  21. Hi guys, Long time reader, first time poster here! So after I made a capital mistake selling my beloved DRZ400SM about a year ago, I have decided to get me another one. However, this time around, my intend is to use the machine for trail riding and what we Germans call "Endurowandern" (= Enduro hiking) - which is ironic because it is mostly forbidden in our country. Anyway, I was all but set to purchase a 400S, when I learned about the E version with more aggressive fuelling and overall more power. Unfortunately, these things are incredibly difficult to come by, so I am looking at anything that resembles an E - which brings me to my question: Close to where I live (East Germany) a DRZ400 Y (E) is available. Other than the kicker, is there anything that is vastly different compared to the later models? I thought I heard somewhere that the adjustable suspension was only offered from 2002 onwards?! Also, is there any difference in noise? I know this question might sound weird, but since I will be driving through forests etc., I would like to keep the sound level to a minimum. Looking forward to your replies! Thanks a lot, Chimp
  22. Alright im going to try and be as detailed as possible. Last road my 2001 DRZ400S in september, did an atv dirt bike ride with a group and it was about 40 miles of nothing but off road. crashed a few times and broke left rear turn signal. replaced the left rear signal, didnt get the chance to ride it since due to military stuff and leave. let the battery die on it and tried to jump it, jumped it and after a 5-10 minutes of cranking trying to get it running it finally kicked on but it ran very rough. lots of popping and back firing and would only stay running if i held the throttle half open and still connected to the jumping vehicle. came to conclusion that the battery was done. ordered new battery (BikeMaster TruGel MG7B-4). Got it in put it in the bike and tried to fire and it would just turn over and over but wouldnt start. exhaust would thump as the engine turned. pulled the spark plug and it was black, changed the plug to a new one, gapped right, checked for spark and got it put that in and it would still just turn over and over and not fire, still thumping from the exhaust. drained the carb, new gas. pulled the plug again and it was dry, put some gas on it and tried to fire again and same result. decided to pull the carb, jets were all junked up changed them out with MSR Carburetor kit from motorcycle superstore, only jet i didnt change was the secondary air jet that the diaphragm and needle sit on as it was clean, put the carb back together following the specs in the manual. put the carb back in the bike and same result, it would turn over and over, same thump from the exhaust but would not fire but there were times where it sounded like it was about to start (turned over faster and sound changed) but it never started and would only turn over. checked the plug again and it was still dry, still got spark, put more fuel on the plug again and same result. not sure what else to check but i hope one of yall out there can give me some advice to fix this. weather is too nice not to ride.
  23. Hello Everyone, First post on thumpertalk but I have been lurking the forums for awhile. I am new to the supermoto world and definitely new to carbed bikes. Came from the supersport world so any help is appreciated. My setup: 2015 DRZ400SM -Full Yoshimura RS-2 Carbon (recently installed) -Stock Mikuni Carb -K&N Air Filter -3x3 Mod (to be completed soon) -JD Jet Kit (also to be completed soon) I live in CT so the bike is inside for a couple months due to weather. I can run it but cant ride it much unless we get a clear day, so I would like to get the jetting as close to perfect as I can on the first go around. Riding anywhere from sea level to a couple thousand feet above sea level max (0-2000ft) Wondering what you all recommend for my jet setting. I have the stock fuel screw as well as everything the JD kit comes with. Thanks for the help!
  24. I'm getting my bike ready to run a big chunk of the Oregon Backcountry Discovery Route (OBDR) this summer so I'm going through it adding things I think will help bulletproof the bike and maybe keep me from having "issues" when I'm 100 miles from nowhere in the middle of the desert in Eastern Oregon. What I hate is that since these products are made for such a niche market the prices are just ridiculous. So in that vein, here's another $89 worth of aluminum...sigh... One thing I've noticed online is that there is sometimes a lack of good clear pictures or videos on specific parts for the DR-Z, so I try to rectify that with my videos. (aka: I use a tripod as much as possible...lol...)