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Found 53 results

  1. I just installed a new Radius Rekluse clutch on my 2016 Beta 350RR. I'm having trouble adjusting the Free Play Gain so that I can use engine braking. Either I get too much free play or or not enough. I recently installed the same clutch on my KTM 530 and I can get the engine braking so I know it can be done. Any tips? should I use the heavier springs in the Rekluse disc pack?
  2. I would like to start off by saying that I am a new rider and never been on a bike with an auto clutch. That's not to say that I wouldn't be interested in trying one out, even though I will probably never have one. I bought my first bike at 29 and a year later I'm still a pretty terrible rider, but it is still a blast. I bought a motorcycle to have fun and no other reason. So to the question, if someone can buy an auto clutch and it makes riding more fun for THEM then why not? A lot of people say that it prevents you from learning proper clutch skills etc etc, but what does it matter if you have more fun?
  3. Bought a 95 cr250, clutch lifter is contacting the cover when clutch lever is fully pulled in. Is this an adjustment issue, or worn out components?
  4. need some help on my 1991 it seems to have a reverse clutch basket. need to get it apart for the case to be split. never had trouble because usualy the presusre plate just comes off with the 5 springs. really confuses and need some help ive done the drive gear washer method. 3/8 impact and still wont break loose. seen vids and looks like they have a bolt on the 91 kx80 mine seems to be a nut 100% so im really stuck and need some help. thanks guys
  5. hey guys, I'm new to the world of bikes and my uncle has experience with bikes and showed me a few simple things like brake pads and bleeding my brake lines, i just bought my first bike a 2006 rm125. first time i went to ride we started it up and went to put it in first gear, slammed first gear and stalled. figured out if i rev while putting it in gear it goes in fine with a little lurch (no problem just getting my bearings riding the bike for now).clutch plates are brand new, swapped in a new clutch cable hoping that was the only issue. so with a brand new cable I'm still having this problem it seems as though the fitment is off. i was wondering if anyone has an opinions on what might be wrong, i was told something might be missing on the inside (from when previous owner replaced clutch) because the arm that holds the clutch inside the engine (no idea the name of it) could be a little bit lower so that it engages sooner and better. again like i said i apologize I'm a newb with all this and just looking for opinions on what may be wrong. my question is, why wont a clutch cable made for my bike not fit right? could i be missing an internal component causing issues? and should i just go with a whole new clutch kit?
  6. Hi, I recently bought a 2009 KTM 250 XC-F. Everything is great about it, although I am having a minor issue with the clutch. So I start up the bike, let it idle for a minute or so to get everything up to temperature, pull and hold in the clutch...shift into first...and...*jolt forward*...*stall* I have peeked inside the oil cap and the clutch operates fine (obviously when the bike isn't running). So I then have to start up the bike again and let it idle longer. I have found that it takes almost 2-3 minutes, sometimes i give it a 1/4 throttle to get things going faster. After enough time I shift into first, still get a little jolt, but engine continues to run like the clutch finally separated from the plate. But after this everything is flawless, clutch operates perfect. It's just with a cold engine, the clutch doesn't work. Is this normal and I have just never been told this?? I find it annoying how I have to sit there for 3 minutes or so just letting the engine idle before the bike can even move. Thanks for any info, Dean
  7. Hello people, First of all, sorry for my poor English. My name is Lucas, I'm from Argentina and i bought a year ago a Yamaha YZ125 1998. Recently i had a problem with my clutch and i have to replace some parts. The problem is i cannot find the pressure plate for my model (PN: 4EX-16351-00-00) and i was wondering if the later models plate (PN: 5HD-16351-00) can work on my bike... At look it seems to be exactly the same, but i doubt it, so maybe anyone know and can confirm if works or not. Also I cannot find the screws with washer (PN: 90159-06016-00), that would be much a difference or be risky to just assembly it with screws from a grocery or something? Remember the main problem is I cannot find the OEM parts, not I don't want to... I'm just trying to find the best solution without making damage to my bike. Thank you so much in advance, I really appreciate it.
  8. I've heard that you can measure the warpage of clutch plates by placing them on a flat surface and running a post-it around the edge, if the post-it slides under on one side but doesn't on another side it's warped. Has anyone tried this method and gotten results? Also how flat of a surface does it have to be and are there any household surfaces that would be flat enough (a flat table, etc.)? I don't have any feeler gauges but i can pick some up if need be. I'm mostly just wondering about the surface. -Sincerely, Airborne
  9. Hey guys, I was hoping some of you could help me out. Recently my bike (2010 KTM 250 XC) started overheating a lot. As soon as it got up to temperature it would start peeing coolant out of the overflow tube. I changed out the stock 1.8 radiator cap for a CV4 2.0 radiator cap. Still continued to pee it out. I went through and checked the head and cylinder to see if they were warped. They are not and I also changed the base gaskets and head gaskets. Still continued to pee out. I bought and swapped out new over-sized radiators, new silicone hoses, and a new billet aluminum water pump impeller. Flushed the system and filled it with Engine Ice antifreeze at about 1/4" above the fins. It still continues to pee out. I've heard different things about how the reeds could be causing it and also my jetting could. My jetting is set up perfectly for my weather and where I ride, and my reeds looked fine on inspection. The only thing I have not checked is my clutch pack. It has some chatter and when the bike is cold it shifts pretty hardly into first gear on the first initial take off. In fact it shifts so hard it lurches forward and wants to die and I have to give it a little throttle or it will. (Also, if the bike is in gear on the trail and I pull in the clutch and try to hit the e-start the clutch doesn't engage until I give it a little throttle). I run what the manual recommends for oil (Motorex 15w-50) and at the right amount. I also changed it about 2 hours ago. Since that is the only part of this bike I haven't really looked at I was just wondering since all of that other stuff didn't seem to work, could my clutch be causing the overheating issue?
  10. Looking to put a hydraulic one finger clutch on my bike but don't want to spend Clake money. Recommendations appreciated.
  11. I have a 2008 CRF250X, it is my first dirt bike. I feel like there is something wrong with either the clutch cable, its adjustments or the clutch pack/pressure plate. Here are the symptoms from different scenarios: 1) Bike is cold, it is in first gear, moving the bike forward or backward is extremely hard while the clutch lever is pulled in. Rear tire is trying to move the piston it feels like. Once I get it going it gets a bit easier to roll. 2) Bike is cold, it is in neutral, when I start the bike and let it run for a minute or two, get on the bike pull the clutch, hold the front brake and put the bike in first gear the bike instantly stalls while jerking forward. 3) Bike is cold, it is in first gear, I try to start the bike with the clutch pulled in, it jerks forward a bit but starts. Once the bike starts and oil is flowing around it does not jerk any more and bike can be almost freely pushed around while it is in first gear and clutch is in. So to me it feels like when the bike is cold and engine not running, no matter how much I pull the clutch, it does not fully disengage the drive train. Once the bike starts it looks like the clutch starts to work fine. Is this normal? Is it a worn or badly adjusted clutch cable? Is the clutch bad and needs service? Not enough oil in the tranny? Wrong oil in the tranny? (Shell Rotella non synthetic)
  12. I have upgraded the clutch on the 250L with the EBC friction disks and springs. The clutch pull is easy, not hydraulic easy but easy as in 2 finger. On the brake side I never use more than 3 fingers. I would like to get shorty levers and both MSR and Moose make shortys. My excellent local parts shop guy say they fit the R models, but most likely not the L models due to dual sport peculiarities. Does anyone know if these shortys will fit the 250L, or have you fit them to the bike with lever modifications? If no one has installed them, I'll just cut the stock levers to the length I want - doesn't look as nice but it works, as I did cut my WR450 levers down and had no issues.
  13. My 1982 yz125j clutch basket has deep grooves worn in from the disks. any ideas where I got order a new basket? I cannot find a website that carries them so does anyone have any ideas about baskets for other bikes that would fit mine? thank you.
  14. anyone know what clutch spring length should be? Mine measure 44.7mm, thanks!
  15. I recently installed a clever lever from MWME and I am getting the following issues: Clutch dragging, bike on level ground, warm engine. Pull in lever (disengage clutch), put it in first gear, me off the bike, bike creeps forward. Clutch slipping at higher rev, full throttle. In the fall I put Motul Transoil 10w40 (it used to have Amsoil Dirt 10w60 sythetic) then put the bike away for winter. Before even starting the engine, I installed the Clever lever and eyeballed the plunger travel. Issue #1, I think can be easily fixed by increasing plunger travel (small screw). Issue #2 is puzzling. I fail to see how it would be related to the clutch lever not fully disengaging the clutch, it's the complete opposite of issue #1 . I have no reason to suspect a bad batch of Motul transoil. Am I missing something?
  16. Hi I got a KTM 450 SXF 2017 and ride mostly motocross but I am thinking about swiching to enduro since we doesnt got any good mx tracks in my area. Tired of traveling hours to ride a nice track. I want to be able to ride both enduro and motocross so I dont want to sell the bike for a exc at the moment. The main problem with the sxf is that it stalls easy in the woods. So I googled a bit and found that swiching flywheel or adding a weight to the flywheel will do the trick. I doesnt find any flywheels but I found these 5 ounce weights from steahlyoffroad.com. Will 5 ounce be enough? Anyone know how much the sxf flywheel and the exc flywheel weighs? I saw there is a "Dungey edition" for the 13-15 bike and it has options of 8, 12 or 15 ounces. And what about the clutch, I read someone swiching out some alu plates to steel plates.. anyone tried this?
  17. I have installed a new exp rekluse clutch on my 2009 KTM 530EXC and I cannot get the clutch to engage at all. The install consisted of the exp plates and the new slave cylinder. The instructions had me reuse 6 of the existing clutch & friction plates. I bleed the clutch several time to make sure there was no air. Not mater the gain setting the clutch does not engage. What could be going on?
  18. Put my bike up on the stand today to do some preventative maintenance. I swapped out all new cables and adjusted them, oil/filter change and took off the clutch outer cover to take a look and found this... and not a single bit of wear on it, like brand new.
  19. Hey guys, jut did a bottom end on my 04 yz 250, and the clutch won't engage. What I mean by this is it will start in neutral, and once I drop it into first (with the ever pulled) it stalls out. When I depress my clutch lever the actuator is fully engaged, so I don't see that being the issue, I've read that sometimes after you take out or put in clutch plates they stick because oil hasn't flowed through the plates all the way yet. I'm at a loss, any help is appreciated! Thanks in advance
  20. Trying to figure out what I missed here. My starter spins freely after rebuilding the engine - new crank, bigbore. Everything is back together but when 'cranking' it over, the starter just spins free. I took off the starter cover held on by 3 phillips head bolts (fig 1 &3 ) and held on to the bushing on the starter gear train- directly located behind starter cover. This set of gears turned freely. So my starter teeth and sprocket teeth are not at fault. Next I turned the idler sprocket between this sprocket and the flywheel and this idler would turn freely clockwise but not rotate by hand counterclockwise CCW. Figure 3 - bottom center. I followed a thread on here of someone who had the same or similar symptoms. Following advice given to that poster, I removed the idler gear adjacent to flywheel and attempted to spin flywheel. This I can do in a clockwise direction but CCW provides much resistance. According to the arrow indicating the direction flywheel is suppose to turn (figure 2 bottom center) when running, I have something backwards. Anyone follow? What could I have done wrong here? Thank you
  21. Greetings everyone, I'm looking for opinions or experience on this 'issue'. I got my Beta new a little over a year ago. I noticed since the beginning that it shifts a bit rough/stiff compared to any of the other bikes I've had (KX450,YZFs, GSXR1000). This feels like an extension of the same issue... it doesn't like going into neutral very easily. If I get my fingers out of the way and pull the clutch lever to the grip, it definitely helps but I still feel it a bit. I've already adjusted the lever as far out as I want it. Is there more adjustment I need to do to the hydraulic clutch? Anybody else notice this about their Beta? I think I have about 30 hours on it, I'd have to check. Already changed the oil a couple times on this, but as I mentioned it's been the same since I've had it. I did take it to the shop to inquire about it, of course they said it's fine. Thanks for your input.
  22. I am having an awful time with my EXP 3.0. I have a 2016 CRF450R. Since I have installed (and reinstalled many, many times) this clutch it seems to have never worked properly. When I first installed it all seemed to be well, including break in. Since then my bike began stalling. So a week or so ago I called (really good customer support by the way) and spoke with someone at Rekluse. He suggested I remove the red adjustment springs and install the blue, for a total of six blue adjustment springs. I did that, to no avail. I since have reinstalled the three red for a total of three blue and three red adjustment springs (just like it was shipped, "medium"). Lifter rod is seated properly. My latest issue is this: 1) With the correct free play I pull in my clutch but WITHOUT releasing the clutch I give it gas and the bike starts moving as if I were releasing the clutch (which I am not). 2) So, I then increase free play but when I do this and (pulling in the clutch) shift into first gear, the bike lunges forward and stalls (as if I wasn't pulling in the clutch at all). I have been in and out of this clutch so many times my head is spinning, and I simply don't know where to begin again. I ordered a new clutch cable just in case that is my problem. My configuration is as follows, in first to last disc: Judder seat Judder spring Thin clutch disc (larger I.D.) Steel drive REKLUSE Steel drive Clutch disc Steel drive Clutch disc Steel drive Clutch disc Steel drive Clutch disc All bolts are torqued to specs, oil is fresh. Any reasonable suggestions are greatly appreciated. Thanks Steve
  23. Hi, I have a CR250 and went to get it out for the season to find when I pull the clutch lever in, the gears are still engaged. I tried adjusting the cable with no luck, so I trained the bottom end oil out and removed the clutch cover and plates to inspect it. There are some grooves in the clutch basket, but they don't look too bad (see attached). Any ideas on how to trouble shoot this issue ? Thanks
  24. Hi, I have a CR250 and went to get it out for the season to find when I pull the clutch lever in, the gears are still engaged. I tried adjusting the cable with no luck, so I trained the bottom end oil out and removed the clutch cover and plates to inspect it. There are some grooves in the clutch basket, but they don't look too bad (see attached). Any ideas on how to trouble shoot this issue ? Thanks