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Showing results for tags 'air'.
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Hey All, I have a question about needle taper and how it affects fueling? 2003 DRZ400S (E model FCR39, 3x3, E Header with fiber wrap, Stock S muffler with endcap mod, and stock S cams). JD JEtting stage 2 Kit for DRZ E model, not for the S model with FCR Current Carb Settings: -155 main -Blue needle 2nd clip from top (DRZ E taper profile) -Coast enrichener removed -everything else stock E Carb settings (including slow jets, and air jets) -idle screw = 2 1/8 turns out (and idles perfect) I ordered the EMN needle as per suggestions from other TTers My Question: I was just wondering what the EMN needle would do to my AFR graph? The taper chart doesn't make sense to me. If you see the attached image, my AFR seems to be rich at 1/4 and 4/4. I believe the EMN needle will flatten/richen out my mid range. So, to compensate I also bought a 150 main. Is this a correct assumption? PS. Is the first rich state the AP effects? I know it's too rich because it's not a punchy as a pumper should be. I'm saving up for a leak jet kit/power bowl/AP cover, but was just wonder what effects to look for when I start tuning more in the next few months as funds become available? Thanks! Note: Blue is first run with needle clip in 4th from top. Red is 5th run with needle 2nd from top to lean it out. Note: -
Hey all, just got a DRZ-400 yesterday and absolutely love it. Today I took it out for a ride and when I got back I noticed the tire was leaking from the valve. I looked on the other posts here about leaking valve stems but all of their leaks are coming from the top. The leak on mine is coming from where the stem meets the rim right under the nut. Can I put sealant there to patch the leak? Or what can I do to fix it? Thanks!
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Have a TTR50E for my youngster and every time I need to air up the rear tire, I scrape knuckles trying to get an air pump to attach to the valve stem. If I use my air compressor, I can make it work, but when out on the trail, it’s almost impossible to get a hand pump to work. Has anyone found out if an angled valve stem adapters would help in this situation, and where can I find something small enough not to protrude on a small bike like this? Any suggestions appreciated! cheers! TommYZ
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Buckle in this is a long one. Any advice is appreciated! I have a 2011 RMZ 250 that has done me very well for 4 years. Has been a very reliable bike with lots of power. Last year it started to act up a bit, slightly less power & became more difficult to start, especially cold (side note: it’s a Suzuki so it’s never started great cold but usually 3 or 4th kick was the case). Still ran okay though & fiddled with the fuel screw a bit which seemed to help with the starting/power issue for the rest of the season. This past winter we pulled it apart, put a brand new piston in, checked the valve clearances, moderate amount of carbon build up on the valves which we cleaned off, and put in a new spark plug which is also in spec. Bike still wouldn’t start great cold but was starting on about the 8-10th kick and power seemed to be improved although not 100%. I’ve take it for quite a few rides now and broken the new piston in and am having more issues: -won’t kick over cold at all but bump starts just fine -will kick over first or 2nd kick when warm but NOT when the bike starts to get even slightly hot -very little top end power. Bottom of the gears seem to be full power and the hotter the bike gets the less power I have in the top end -bike began to backfire quiet a bit when hot -won’t idle in gear when hot Any advice on what to replace/trouble shoot next? I had a buddy tell me it could be a worn out injector so that’s what I’m looking at replacing next. Thanks!
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I’m struggling to grip with my knees on my dirtbike. Either my jeans or my knee pads are what touches the bike, and they just slip, making it difficult to accelerate and hill climb without getting thrown around. I’ve been thinking of getting rubber grip tape, and this has good reviews. What do you guys think? I ride a 2001 rm125 and was thinking id put it on my gas tank, frame rails, and maybe my air box. https://www.amazon.com/Safe-Way-Traction-Resilient-Rubberized/dp/B00I511BDQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?dchild=1&keywords=rubber+grip+tape&qid=1605916462&sr=8-4#aw-udpv3-customer-reviews_feature_div Or this https://www.amazon.com/Core-Prodigy-Fusion-Silicone-Equipment/dp/B072QYQN7B/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?dchild=1&keywords=rubber%2Bgrip%2Btape&qid=1605916462&sr=8-5&th=1&psc=1
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So I picked up a 2016 DR-Z 400S last week. Only 4200 miles, and in good shape. My first DRZ and first dual sport, actually. I ride an R1250GS most of the time but I will ride the DRZ with my son on Saturdays, 90%+ in the dirt. The only visible mod is an FMF Powercore 4 muffler. The ladies I bought it from had only owned it a year and it had FMF on it when they bought it. They had no clue whether it had been re-jetted. First question: am I right that the white nob shown in the picture is an aftermarket fuel/air screw? If so, that's a pretty sure indicator somebody had the carb off and re-jetted it, right? Before you answer that and presume whoever did it knew what they were doing, check out the holes drilled in the air box and in the air box cover! I'm guessing that was somebody's attempt at a 3x3 mod! The oval on the top of the airbox is untouched. How concerned should I be about the hole in the air-box cover?! I'm thinking I need to find a plug that size!! One other question: the bike starts right up with the choke off, but not with it on. Doesn't want to take much throttle until warm. Any diagnoses? Thanks in advance! The Jed
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Can anyone tell me if these are the same parts? Air fuel adjustment screw? In rebuilding carbs. The head on the old one was stripped and it was also impossible to remove work left hand drill and extractor. I end up having to drill all the way through the threaded section and then pick out remaining brass threads. The old piece is not tapered, line the new piece. Just I suspect it was over tightened by previous owner, and the taper was pushed through the carb body orifice. My jet kit instructions say to screw all the way in and screw out 3 turns. The new adjustment screw seems very loose that far out, like it'll just fall out from engine vibration if left at the setting. Any pointers will be greatly appreciated.
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Hey all, so my bike is dying when i give it anything over 1/2 throttle. It is completely stock and I have pulled the carb and cleaned the 3 jets. Not very experienced with bikes so any help would be much appreciated. It was running rough when i pulled the carb now it idles perfect but bogs down under throttle. I have changed the plug and have tried running with no air filter. I also took the carb off again to make sure float wasn't stuck. Here is a clip of the bike https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B6FW4yt2Oja3Wks5NDNGNXBiUjA
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My ttr90 is running well then all of a sudden it starts blowing smoke and stalling, I’m thinking that its worn rings or piston so I begin tearing apart to rebuild, as soon as I open the air box it just drops oil everywhere, the oil could of only came from the breather hose that comes from the crank case, when I checked the dip stick the oil was still a little over the line, I’m wondering if this can happen from putting too much oil, or if it’s from something more serious like pressure leaking into the crank case.
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Here is a modification of the stock air screw for my 2006 KTM 250/300 XC-W. I took the stock air screw and drilled a hole in the screwdriver slot end, then soldered a section of brass treaded rod into that hole. A little bit of vinyl tubing screws over that. Then I took a knob that I found at a hardware store and drilled it out so that the vinyl tub fit inside it. A little bit of hot glue to hold the knob on and it's good to go. It's pretty easy to reach at a dead stop, and the vinyl tubing flexes so the needle won't get damaged if it gets hit with a foreign object. You know trees, rocks, dirt, the ground, etc. I ride between 3500 and 7000 feet and find that a quarter turn here and there keeps the bike running great. YMMV Good Luck Buckwheat
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I just picked up a 2020 crf450r , it’s my first 450 I’ve been a 2 stroke guy my whole life but decided to finally make the switch, anyway the other day I got a twin air, air filter and when I put it in the filter cage in and got it screwed in it was sticking out past the rubber on the filter, I’ll try to put picture up so you can see what I mean but compared to the stock filter it didn’t look right so I just wanted to see if I got the wrong filter at the store, thanks for any help
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I've been trying to find a 1996 ktm sx250 air filter cage I can't find one anywhere. I looked on ebay for used and tried to find one with the air filter box. I did find one one but it was across the ocean it was $60 plus shipping and it would take 2 to 3 months to get here. So does anyone have any ideas.
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Hey i just put in a Jd jet kit and used the blue needle in the middle position with the 25 and 155 jets. I just need to adjust the fuel air mixture with the screw. I just don't know how to reach it and was wondering what people use to manipulate it. I obv. don't want to have to pull the whole carb out if I can help it. Thanks. Edit: The bike is a 2008 drz400sm with a stock carb that I just rejected. The bike start but the throttle is sticking. As in I can turn the throttle and let it go, and it will stay there. I still need to adjust the fuel screw but don't want to take the carb out. Is there a tool that can reach up and adjust the fuel screw at a 90 degree angle?
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Please subscribe to my YouTube channel! Edit By Ryan Hegler with Intensity Videography of Ryan Hegler and Nick Mohar riding the St. Anthony Sand dunes in Idaho during the 2017 Solar eclipse. intensity.videography@gmail.com https://www.instagram.com/intensityvideography/ https://www.facebook.com/IntensityVideography/- 4 replies
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Hey guys, I could really use some group wisdom here. Thank you in advance for your advice. I'm at sea level, if you need to factor that in to your opinion. I really hope Dave can chime in here. I bought a 2001 XR650L with no body/frame damage, good tires/wheels, lithium battery upgrade, smog removed, and an FMF pipe on it a few months ago with 6000 miles on it. It had been sitting for a long time and it ran ok, but not great. I paid $3000 for it, and in hindsight that was probably too much- but we can't change that now. When I say it ran ok, I mean it started but only with a lot of choke and would die trying to gently let the clutch out in 1st with no throttle. While accelerating under full throttle it would act like it was bumping off a rev limiter at about 2/3 rpm then regain power after a few hiccups. Like most guys, I thought my mechanical skills could fix anything. So I put new fuel in it, changed the spark plug, oil/filter/oil screen, set the exhaust valves at 0.004 and intake at .005, removed the air snorkel, swapped the stock paper air filter for a Uni one, cleaned the carb, replaced the 50/152 jets to 55/158, and set the idle air/fuel mixture screw properly which is was at about 2.5 turns. After doing all that, the bike ran a bit better. It barely needs any choke to start now, it has considerably more power, but still "hiccups" or "hesitates" under full throttle at about 70% through the RPM range. Here's the kicker- the full throttle hiccup at 2/3 through the RPM range problem is 100% gone if I take the air filter off (I only did this twice for 1/2 mile each time, in a non-dusty area). If I leave the side plastic cover off the air box but leave the air filter on, the problem is about 50% gone. To me, that seems to imply that it's running too rich because a greater amount of air (leaning it) fixes the problem. But I can hardly believe that is the answer because the same problem occurred with 50/152 jetting- which is almost universally believed to be too lean- especially at sea level. I'm leaning toward drilling some more holes in the top of the air box to help it breathe, but that seems to not fix the root problem. There are TONS of XR650Ls without swiss cheese air boxes that run great. If y'all don't have some magic advice, I'll probably just buy a full carb rebuild kit, a new fuel filter, and a needle shim to see if that fixes it. If that doesn't make it better- I still have a 165 jet that I can use. Thanks in advance.
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Looking to get some replacement air filters.. I have seen the Twin Air Power-flow kit, has anyone used it? Right now I am just running a pre oiled twin air filter with a stock twin air housing for the 17' (doesn't have the metal spark screen like the stock housing) and it works well. I was wondering if ya'll had any recommendations for an air filter and housing that you could notice a slight power increase, or anything along those lines. Also, does anyone use the Works Connection ball bearing throttle tube? I have been looking to try one out and wanted some feedback... Lastly, I was hoping to find some wider and longer foot pegs. I am using the WC Titanium footpegs right now, and they are too short and stubby. What have ya'll tried? I am a taller guy (6'0) so I have also wanted to try the footpegs that you can lower 5mm. I think that they are buy faster USA or something! Let me know what yall have liked! Thanks -
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I need to know the difference between having a lean gas mix and a lean fuel/air ratio. I know that 100:1 is leaner than 50:1 which is leaner than 32:1, and I have an idea of what leaner fuel/air looks like, or too lean, but what are the signs of the gas mixture being too lean? I am currently switching my gas mixture from 32:1 to 50:1 and I ride a KTM 250sx and I will tune my carb, etc. I made a whole thread on this already and I'm pretty positive the bike will run 50:1 fine since the recommended is 60:1 without having to jet it due to the fact that the guy never jetted the carb for 32:1, it is still jetted for 60:1. I just need to know what the signs of lean gas or fuel/air mixture and the difference. I shouldn't even need to know the sign of lean gas, if there are any... I don't wanna &%$#@! up the bike. I would at least like to know the sign of lean air/fuel ratio so that I can adjust since idk the signs of what I would see if it is too lean or rich. -
2017 KTM 450 EXC-F Six Days Cold Start Fix/Mods
TrippleD posted a topic in 250-530 EXC-F/XCF-W/XCR-W
Looking for some input from those who have had all the same issues with cold start problems. Bought my bike new in may of 17, only mods are FMP muffler and i run a Reklus. I am now learning that the bike is probably running leaner than it should be. I just turned 56, my racing days are behind me. I am interested in only making modifications to this bike to make it start and run more reliable for years to come. I have been reading up on TT and other sites to figure out what to do. To start, i have ordered a pigtail from TPSTool. My question to the experts out there, what are the mods you would suggest without going crazy to make this bike start and be reliable? I also run a snow track 1 or 2 times a year. Any suggestions would be great! -
Hey everyone, My 2006, 650R I bought last year.. had her in the garage ever since, not one real ride but always starts right up and would take it around the neighborhood every so often. I finally got it out to a property where I can really ride her. It still starts up just as easy.. Runs okay with the choke on for a couple minutes.. but it dies soon after. Harder to re-start with the choke off, starts easy still and runs with the choke on. I can ride it with the choke on, just can’t accelerate or do anything and if I turn the choke off it will stall rather fast especially if you try to idle Always starts back up easily enough. Just not happy this is a video of me riding her
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Hey guys, out of curiosity what are your opinions on stock jets vs aftermarket (jd jetting). I was also considering a 3*3 mod on the airbox. Are both of these things worth the time/money for the performance?
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Hopefully I will not have to make any more posts after this but I have questions about the 04 wr snorkel. Before it's suggested yes I did read the free mod guide on super Moto junkie and he shows the snorkel being removed but does not explain or show how. I tried removing the two bolts on top and the battery but it still doesn't even budge after that, is it molded in place? Also what is deemed as a clean or dirty air filter? I don't know what is supposed to be normal, upon looking at mine there was a good amount of thick black grease that I wiped out so I have no idea how long this one has been used or last cleaned. I bought a no toil filter to replace the current one since I just did a rebuild and why not have a clean one in there. But if someone can enlighten me on details it would be much appreciated.
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Hey TT! So I have been having problems with the rear brake on my 2006 S; it will work immediately after bleeding the system but loses stopping power after a few pumps of the brake pedal. Just today I rebuilt the rear master cylinder (replaced all seals and cleaned the all parts with brake cleaner), but the problem persisted even after that, the brake worked for the first few applications and then lost almost all of its power. It seems that air is getting into the system somewhere and I can say without a reasonable doubt that it isn't the master cylinder since I've just rebuilt it. What is the next most likely place air is getting in? The lines are quite dirty and I'd guess they've never been replaced since the bike was made (06) Should I start there? It's a good excuse to with to steel braided lines haha! The reservoir is also looks a bit corroded and warped at the top where the reservoir cap goes on, so it's possible there isn't a good seal there.
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Hi All, I just bought a 2011 300 XC with gnarly pipe and fmf scilencer. Its my first two stroke and I'm loving it so far. I'm currently working out some jetting issues and I am pretty close to getting it dialed in for my elevation. I am wondering about the air screw adjustment on this bike... I don't seem to be able to lean the air screw enough to get the thing to act lean (almost stall) when I crack the throttle? I have it backed out 3 turns and it won't go any further. I do notice that when I screw it in it acts more rich to the point of bogging at about 1.5 turns in or so. It has a 35 pilot in it. Is this an indication of float level being too high? For the most part I seem to be running pretty rich and have dropped to a 160 MJ and the L needle dropped all the way. Its running great at this setting with only a tiny stutter at about 1/8" of throttle when cruising down the road at moderate speed. Dropping the needle to the 1st position helped this tremendously but it is still there. I'm unsure if this is a two stroke phenomena or not? The settings I'm at seem to be two notches lower than the stock chart and one jet lower. Its pretty dang good but I have some spooge coming down the exhaust still which is surprising considering I should be on the lean side of things I would think... I am at 5000' and about 70 degrees. Can anyone lend some insight?
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Does anyone know where I can get this same plastic piece (orange cap). I bought the bike used and it had it on already.
