Search the Community: Showing results for tags 'Offroad'.



More search options

  • Search By Tags

    Type tags separated by commas.
  • Search By Author

Content Type


Forums

  • General
    • General Forums
    • Inside TT
    • TT Sponsors
  • Dirt Bike
    • General Dirt Bike Forums
    • Make / Model Specific
    • Dirt Bike Technical Forums
    • Special Interest Forums
    • Dirt Bike Regional Discussion
  • ATV/UTV
    • General ATV/UTV Forums
    • ATV/UTV Technical Forums
    • Make/Model Specific
    • Special Interest Forums
    • ATV/UTV Regional Discussion
  • Street
    • General Street Bike Forums
    • Performance, Tuning and Customization
    • Make / Model Specific
    • Special Interest Forums
    • Street Bike Regional Discussion
  • Snow
    • General Snowmobile Forums
    • Snowmobile Technical Forums
    • Make / Model Specific
    • Special Interest Forums
    • Snowmobile Regional Discussion
  • PWC
    • General PWC Forums
    • Make / Model Specific
    • PWC Regional Discussion

Categories

  • Articles

Categories

  • Motorcycle Parts & Acc.
  • Motorcycles
    • Off-Road Motorcycles
    • Dual Sport Motorcycles
    • Street Motorcycles
  • Powersports Gear & Apparel
  • Tools & Shop Supplies
  • Powersports Services
  • Trucks, Trailers & RVs
  • ATV & UTV Parts & Acc.
  • ATVs & UTVs
  • Snow Mobiles, Parts, & Acc.
  • PWC, Parts, & Acc.

Products Categories

  • Body
    • Accessory Mounts
    • Air Vents
    • Axle Pulls
    • Bed Accessories
    • Bodywork
    • Bolt Kits
    • Bracing
    • Bumpers
    • Cabs & Accessories
    • Chrome Covers & Trim
    • Edge Rails
    • Fairing Accessories
    • Fairing Brackets
    • Fender Wells
    • Flags
    • Foot Controls
    • Frame
    • Freeway Bars
    • Front Grills
    • Gas Tanks & Accessories
    • Grab Bars
    • Guards & Accessories
    • Keel Protector
    • Kickstands
    • License Plate Frames
    • Lift Strap
    • Mirror Block - Offs
    • Mirrors
    • Mud Flaps
    • Nerf Bars & Heel Guards
    • Padding Kits
    • Plug Sets
    • Pole Shock Pads
    • Pull Start Trim Ring
    • Racks
    • Ride Mats
    • Roll Cage
    • Running Boards
    • Shelters
    • Side Lifter Wedges
    • Slide Rail
    • Steps
    • Subframes
    • Traction Plates
    • Training Wheels
    • Tunnels
  • Brake
    • Brake Bars
    • Brake Calipers
    • Brake Clevises
    • Brake Cooler
    • Brake Line Clamps
    • Brake Lines
    • Brake Pads/Shoes
    • Brake Pins
    • Brake Repair Kits
    • Brake Reservoir Covers
    • Brake Rotors
    • Disc Rotor Guards
    • Inboard Brake Kits
    • Master Cylinders
    • Parking Brake Adapter
    • Parking Brake Block Offs
    • Return Spring
    • Supermoto Brake Kits
  • Chemical
    • 2 - Stroke Oil
    • Brake / Clutch Fluid
    • Chain Lube
    • Cleaners
    • Coolant
    • Engine Oil
    • Filter Cleaner & Oil
    • Fog Blocker
    • Fuel Products
    • Gaskets & Seals
    • Glue / Thread Lock
    • Grease
    • Leather Accessories
    • Lubrication
    • Medical
    • Paint
    • Polish
    • Suspension Fluids
    • Tire Sealant
    • Traction Additive
    • Transmission / Gear Oil
    • Water Repellent
  • Control
    • Cables
    • Clutch Lines
    • Cruise / Throttle Controls
    • Dashboards
    • Handguards
    • Handlebars & Accessories
    • Hydraulic Clutches
    • Hydraulic Handlebar Controls & Accessories
    • Kick Start Levers
    • Levers & Perches
    • Relocation Brackets
    • Shift Levers
    • Shift Linkages
    • Steering Arms
    • Steering Column Covers
    • Steering Damper / Stabilizers
    • Steering Stem Bearings
    • Steering Stem Nuts
    • Steering Stems
    • Steering Stops
    • Steering Wheels
    • Throttle Covers
    • Throttle Extenders
    • Throttle Kits
    • Throttle Tubes
    • Triple Tree & Clamps
  • Drive
    • Axle Blocks
    • Axle Housings
    • Axle Nuts
    • Axles
    • Bearings & Seals
    • Belt Guards
    • Chain & Sprocket Kits
    • Chain Adjusters
    • Chain Guards
    • Chain Tensioner
    • Chaincase & Components
    • Chains
    • Countershaft Spacers
    • CV Boots
    • CV Joints
    • Drive Belts
    • Drive Shaft Covers
    • Drivetrain
    • Drivetrain Gaskets
    • Hubs
    • Locking Differential
    • Pinion Shafts
    • Primary Chains
    • Primary Drive
    • Pulleys
    • Rear Differential Covers
    • Rollers, Sliders & Guides
    • Spindle Shafts
    • Sprague Carriers
    • Sprocket Bolts
    • Sprocket Carriers
    • Sprockets
    • Transmissions
    • Universal Joints
    • Wheel Shafts
  • DVDs
  • Electrical
    • Accessories
    • Antennas
    • Audio Components
    • Batteries
    • Camera Systems
    • Computers & Meters
    • Connectors
    • Cooling Fans
    • Electrical Components
    • Electrical Covers
    • Electrical Gaskets
    • Fuses
    • Garage Door Openers
    • Gauges & Components
    • Generator Belt
    • Heaters
    • Horn
    • Key Nut Cover
    • Lighting Stator Systems
    • Lights & Accessories
    • Master Cylinder Switch Block
    • Radar Detectors
    • Shift Systems
    • Spark Plug Holder
    • Spark Plugs
    • Speedometer Tuners
    • Starters
    • Switch
    • Trailer Wire Harnesses
    • Turn Signals & Components
    • Wiring
  • Engine
    • Clutch & Components
    • Complete Engine
    • Crankcase Components
    • Cylinder Heads
    • Cylinder Kits
    • Cylinder Sleeves
    • Decompression Plugs
    • Engine Covers
    • Flywheel Weights
    • Gaskets & Seals
    • Kick Starters
    • Motor Mounts
    • Oil Coolers
    • Oil Filters
    • Oil Injection Block-Off Kits
    • Oil Lines
    • Oil Pumps
    • Oil Tanks
    • Pistons
    • Plugs, Caps & Dipsticks
    • Power Up Kits
    • Pull-Start Kits
    • Radiators & Components
    • Shift Drums
    • Shift Kits
    • Smog Pump Eliminator Kit
    • Valve Train
    • Water Pump & Components
    • Woodruff Keys
  • Exhaust
    • Catalytic Conveters
    • End Caps
    • Exhaust Brackets / Hangers
    • Exhaust Flanges
    • Exhaust Snorkels
    • Exhaust Springs & O-Rings
    • Full System Exhaust
    • Headers
    • Heatshields
    • Mid Pipes
    • Muffler Repack Kits
    • Parts & Accessories
    • Pipe Guards
    • Pipes
    • Quiet Cores
    • Replacement Parts for Exhausts
    • Slip-On / Silencers
  • Eyewear
    • Eyewear Accessories
    • Goggles
    • Sunglasses
  • Footwear
    • Boots
    • Socks
  • Fuel & Air
    • Air Boxes
    • Air Filters
    • Altitude Carburetor Compensator
    • Boost Bottles
    • Carburetors & Accessories
    • EFI Programmers
    • Fuel Filters
    • Fuel Injection
    • Fuel Lines
    • Fuel Pumps
    • Fuel System Gaskets
    • Induction Removal Kit
    • Intake Kits
    • Intake Manifolds
    • Jet Kits
    • Manifold Gaskets
    • Manifold Spacers
    • Nitrous Kits
    • Oil Injection Block Off Kits
    • Oxygen Sensor Eliminator
    • Oxygen Sensors
    • Powerwing Inserts
    • Reeds & Reed Valves
    • Snorkel Kits
    • Tank Foam
    • Turbo
  • Graphics
    • Graphic Kits
    • Grip Protectors
    • Grip Tape
    • Number Plate Accessories
    • Registration Kits
    • Stickers
    • Wheel Tape
  • Helmets
    • Communicators
    • Faceshields & Visors
    • Full-face Helmets
    • Graphic Kits
    • Half Helmets
    • Modular Helmets
    • Off-road Helmets
    • Open-face Helmets
  • Implements
    • 3-Point Hitch
    • Grader Blades
    • Loaders
    • Log Splitter
    • Mower
    • Sprayers
    • Spreaders
    • Swisher Quickswitch Implement System
    • Tool Bars
    • Trailers
  • Luggage
    • Bags/Pouches
    • Cargo Containers
    • Cargo Nets
    • Luggage Accessories
    • Rack Trunks
    • Saddlebags & Accessories
    • Under Seat Storage
  • Miscellaneous
  • Plow
    • Cycle Country DIX-C System
    • Cycle Country Plow System
    • Moose Plow System
    • Moose Rapid Mount Plow System
    • Quadboss Plow System
    • Warn Plow System
  • Propulsion
    • Bilge
    • Driveline
    • Handling
  • Protection
    • Ankle
    • Chest & Back
    • Ear Plugs
    • Elbow
    • Kidney Belt
    • Knee
    • Neck
    • Protection Other
    • Shin
    • Shoulder
    • Under Garments
    • Wrist
  • Riding Apparel
    • Gloves
    • Graphic Kits
    • Headwear
    • Heated Apparel Accessories
    • Hydration Systems
    • Jackets
    • Jerseys
    • Life Vests
    • Pants
    • Raingear
    • Riding Apparel Accessories
    • Safety Vest
    • Suits
    • Under Garments
    • Vest
    • Wetsuit
  • Seats
    • Armrests
    • Backrests
    • Bolts
    • Brackets
    • Complete Seats
    • Cushions
    • Fender Bibs
    • Foam
    • Headrest
    • Heated Seats
    • Passenger Seats
    • Safety Harnesses
    • Seat Accessories
    • Seat Covers
    • Seat Kits
    • Seat Latches
    • Seat Springs
    • Spring Mounts
  • Security & Covers
    • Alarms
    • Bike Covers
    • Canopies
    • Dock lines
    • Helmet locks
    • Locks
    • Tiedown Systems
    • Tiedowns & Bungee Straps
    • Tow Straps
  • Shop
    • Dollies
    • Gas Cans & Accessories
    • Manuals
    • Mixing Cups
    • Pit Boards
    • Pit Mats
    • Reflectors
    • Shop Apparel
    • Shop Other
    • Shop Supplies
    • Tape
  • Skis
    • Miscellaneous
    • Runners
    • Ski Bottoms
    • Ski Loops
    • Ski Mounts
    • Skis
  • Snow Accessories
    • Sled Dollies
  • Stands
    • Bike Stands
  • Suspension
    • A-Arms & Components
    • Anti-Roll Bars
    • Ball Joints
    • Bearings
    • Drop Brackets
    • Fork Air Control Systems
    • Fork Bleeders
    • Fork Boots
    • Fork Brace
    • Fork Cable Clamp
    • Fork Cartridge Kits
    • Fork Check Valve Spring
    • Fork Covers
    • Fork Damping Rods
    • Fork Emulators
    • Fork Kits
    • Fork Leg Clamp
    • Fork Locknuts
    • Fork Lower Leg Stop
    • Fork Oil Lock Collar Set
    • Fork Preload Adjuster
    • Fork Rebound Holder
    • Fork Rebound Piston Ring
    • Fork Rebuild Kits
    • Fork Seals & Wipers
    • Fork Slide Bushing
    • Fork Slide Metal Set
    • Fork Springs
    • Fork Stop Kits
    • Fork Tube Cap
    • Fork Tubes
    • Fork Valve Kits
    • Hole Shot Buttons
    • Lift Kits
    • Linkage
    • Lowering Kits
    • Radius Rods
    • Shocks, Struts & Components
    • Strut Bar
    • Suspension Linkage
    • Suspension Tools
    • Suspension Tuning
    • Swingarms & Components
    • Tie Rods
  • Tires & Wheels
    • Carrier Ring Sets
    • Center Caps
    • Graphics
    • Replacement Parts
    • Rims
    • Spokes
    • Tire & Wheel Kits
    • Tire Chains
    • Tire Pressure Alarms
    • Tire Warmers
    • Tires
    • Tubes / Valve Stems
    • Wheel Bearings
    • Wheel Covers
    • Wheel Seals
    • Wheel Spacers
    • Wheel Weights
    • Wheels
  • Tools
    • Air Tools
    • Bearings
    • Brake
    • Carburetion-Fuel
    • Chains
    • Cleaning
    • Clutch
    • Compression
    • Drive
    • Electrical
    • Engine
    • Fin Straightener
    • Flashlights
    • General Tools & Kits
    • Jam Nut Driver
    • Lifts
    • Oil Filters
    • Power Washers
    • Rivets
    • Safety Wire
    • Shop
    • Shovels
    • Spring Tool
    • Suspension
    • T Handles
    • Thread Restorer
    • Tire & Wheel
  • Track Systems
    • Idler Wheel
    • Slides
    • Track Accessories
    • Track Link Kit
    • Tracks
  • Trailers & Ramps
    • Chocks
    • Ramps
    • Trailer Accessories
    • Trailer Hitches
    • Trailer Wheels & Tires
    • Trailers
  • WaterCraft Accessories
    • Anchors
    • Dock Accessories
    • Personal Accessories
    • Watersports
  • Winch
    • Winch Mount Kits
    • Winch Parts and Accessories
    • Winches
  • Windshield
    • Fairings
    • Lower Deflectors
    • Mounting Hardware
    • Windshield Accessories
    • Windshields

Vehicles Categories

  • American VTwin
    • American IronHorse
    • Big Dog
    • Buell
    • Harley Davidson
    • Indian
    • Victory
  • ATV
    • Arctic Cat
    • ATK
    • Bombardier
    • Can-Am
    • Cannondale
    • Cobra
    • Dinli
    • E-TON
    • Gas Gas
    • Honda
    • Hyosung
    • John Deere
    • Kasea
    • Kawasaki
    • KTM
    • KYMCO
    • Other ATV
    • Polaris
    • Suzuki
    • TGB
    • Yamaha
  • Offroad
    • AJP
    • Aprilia
    • ATK
    • Atomik
    • Beta
    • BMW
    • Bultaco
    • Can-Am
    • Cannondale
    • CCM
    • Cobra
    • CZ
    • Gas Gas
    • HM
    • Honda
    • Husaberg
    • Husqvarna
    • Kawasaki
    • KTM
    • LEM
    • Maico
    • MZ
    • OSSA
    • Penton
    • Polini
    • PowerMax
    • Puzey
    • Scorpa
    • SDG
    • Sherco
    • SSR
    • Suzuki
    • Thumpin
    • TM
    • Ural
    • VOR
    • Yamaha
  • Snow
    • Arctic Cat
    • John Deere
    • Kawasaki
    • Moto-Ski
    • Polaris
    • Rupp
    • Ski-Doo
    • Suzuki
    • Yamaha
  • Street
    • Aprilia
    • ATK
    • Benelli
    • Beta
    • Bimota
    • BMW
    • Buell
    • Cagiva
    • Can-Am
    • Ducati
    • Excelsior-Henderson
    • Honda
    • Husqvarna
    • Hyosung
    • Kawasaki
    • KTM
    • KYMCO
    • Moto Guzzi
    • MV Agusta
    • MZ
    • Piaggio
    • Qlink
    • Suzuki
    • Triumph
    • Vespa
    • Yamaha
  • UTV
    • Arctic Cat
    • Argo
    • Bobcat
    • Can-Am
    • Cub Cadet
    • Honda
    • John Deere
    • Kawasaki
    • Kubota
    • KYMCO
    • Polaris
    • Redline
    • Suzuki
    • Yamaha
  • Watercraft
    • Honda
    • Kawasaki
    • Polaris
    • Sea-Doo
    • TigerShark
    • Wet Jet
    • Yamaha

Blogs

  • Gary Semics Motocross Schools
  • Speed Through Fitness
  • Moto Mind
  • Test Blog
  • Trail Tales of Enduro in South America
  • UNLV Rebel MX Club
  • The Rides and Writes of #141
  • Dual Sport Duo

Found 9,311 results

  1. Post pictures of your KTM. 2006's shouldnt even be allowed cause there so dang nice, but lets see them anyway. Here's my entry:http://photobucket.c...nt=DSCN6942.jpghttp://photobucket.c...nt=DSCN6939.jpghttp://photobucket.c...nt=DSCN6937.jpghttp://photobucket.c...nt=DSCN6933.jpghttp://photobucket.c...nt=ea97937b.jpghttp://photobucket.c...nt=DSCN6286.jpghttp://i17.photobuck...sx/DSCN6285.jpghttp://i17.photobuck...sx/DSCN6282.jpgHope you like.
  2. Here's mine in dirt clothes And in SuMo
  3. For me it was a productive day. I did my first oil change, turned up the preload and did a "custom" fender eliminator/reducer by modifying the stock one. So what did you do to yours today?
  4. This idea came about after I visited the adventure riders website. After seeing all the nice pictures that were taken from trails, I decided to start a thread focusing on the nicest areas you can take a picture of your Drz. I think I was just so bored today too. Here I'll set it off...
  5. I have a 2000 YZ250 that I plan on racing in my first ever harescramble on March 12. The bike is completely stock, although I am ordering some g2 ergonomics hand guards. It also has works connection from guards. What would you guys recomend for pre race prep (things to check) and any other advice you can give me, thanks.
  6. With a tip of the hat to a similar thread on the ADV forum, what did you do to yer beloved Beta today ? I spooned on a fresh MT43 (yum !) and attempted to bump up to a 50 tooth in the rear. I was disappointed to discover the chain was not long enough to accommodate the 50 tooth - and had to revert to the heavily worn stock 48 tooth sprocket. As my chain still has plenty o' life in it, I'll order me up a IronMan 48 tooth, and bump to the 50 when the chain needs replacin' .
  7. Hey everyone. Ive been working on rebuilding an 84/85 YZ250 and thought I'd try documenting it, so here I am! This bike came from Don Jones and then my uncle bought it in the mid 80's. So it has a bit of history and sentimental value. Makes the time and money spent rebuilding it that much easier. He rode/raced it till the mid 90s until I bought it off of him. I rode it for a few years, gave it back to the uncle, where it sat on his side yard for the last 15 years or so. Needles to say it was in very bad shape. Unfortunately I didn't get a picture before my uncle sprayed it with engine degreaser, but you get the idea. And this is it "clean" All of the plastics are toast. They crumble in your hand. This is going to be a complete tear down!
  8. Eveyone post pics of your RM any kind, old or new, big or small, lets see em' all!
  9. Order in and deposit paid! WHOHOO! Total of 36 options added. Asked them to provide a price for retaining some of the parts being replaced. Going with the Factory Pro kit with the Fox RC3, Talon hubs and DID Dirt Star wheels, tubless, Rekluse EXP v3, Fresco Pipe, and a host of other nice parts. Gonna be awesome!
  10. Okay guys and gals. Here we go with a thread for those riding toward senility---or maybe already there! I have some concerns about "slowing down", but will get into that later. Not in the mood for it tonight. Cj mentioned in the other thread about the bikes with much bigger engines than needed. I don't understand that either. Maybe it has to do with man's fascination with power. LOL--and if you put stickers all over your bike, it makes it even MORE powerful. Then put loud pipes on it and it becomes a REAL monster. Stupid thinking isn't it. Wait a minute--I just had a flashback. Okay, Let's change the subject. Who's next?
  11. Start posting and please mr. Moderator pin it !!!! My 2012 498RR
  12. Well there is a 200 club so why not a 150 club? This is for those of you who love your 150 as much as I do. I am 6'2 230 lbs without gear and I have a 2014 150 XC that I replaced my 300 XC-W with. I am no pro and not even a very good C- class rider. This bike fits the bill for just about any weekend warrior! Here is a clip from an outing yesterday at Demon Run ATV Trails in Upstate NY. http://www.thumpertalk.com/where-to-ride/locations/2064-demon-run-dirt-bike-and-atv-trails/ The camera does not do justice for the hills. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U9D3JZwUw0Q&feature=youtu.be
  13. Haha title says it all! I have seen other threads like this one but for yz's and KTM's... What I did with my 02 cr125 today was fix some warpage on the cylinder?! Then drilled and tapped some stud bolt holes. My baby! Drilling cylinder! This kind of engine work makes me cringe! All of the studs have helicoils except for 1 lol. Post up your bikes and what you did! Let's see if we can be this thread going!
  14. Jetting the 230F By: Phil Vieira This project takes no less than 2 hours if you have never done jetting to a bike before. It took me 1.5 hours, to take my bike apart, take out the needle, change my pilot jet and the main, and take pictures along the way, but I have seen the inside of my carb 3 times, so I know my way around it pretty well… You should be jetting this bike right when you get it home. This bike comes lean from the factory. If you don’t know what that means, it means that the bike is getting too much air, in terms, a hotter engine, and your plugs will get hotter, and a decrease in HP. To make your engine last longer, do this. These jetting combos are for a 2000 feet and below scenario. Any altitudes higher, you should do a search on the forum. If it cannot be found, post on the forum. Please don’t post on the forum “How do I do this…” You have all the answers here. This project comes to a grand total of less than 30 dollars. The needle is 20, the main jet is about 3 dollars, and the pilot is 5 dollars. You may not need to do the pilot jet depending on your situation, but again, if you’re riding 2000 feet and below, it’s a good idea to get a pilot jet. The jets I used consist of a 132 main, 45 pilot and the power up needle with the clip on the 4th position. Part numbers: 16012-KPS-921 – Needle (Includes Power up needle, Clip, and needle jet) 99113-GHB-XXX0 – Main jet (Where XXX is the size) 99103-MT2-0XX0 – Pilot jet (Where XX is the size) For the Jets, just tell them you need jets for a regular Keihn carb, (also known as a Keihn Long Hex) main jet size XXX, pilot jet size XX. They should know the part numbers. For the needle, bring the number along. If you are lazy, they should have a fiche and they can look up the numbers. Then again you can take in the old jets, and make sure they match up to the new ones. Now, the tools you will need are as follows: ~A collecting cup of some sort. I used a peanut butter jar. ~Ratchets for the following sizes: - 6mm, 8mm, 10mm, 12mm - Extension for the sockets needed ~Phillips and Flathead screwdriver (Be sure these are in perfect condition. A badly worn screwdriver will strip the screws) ~Needle nose pliers ~”Vise grips” or known as locking pliers (Two) ~Open end wrench 7mm and 12mm ~ It’s a good idea to have a extra hand around (Not needed, but I highly recommend tiny Phillips and flathead screwdrivers (Pictured next to the jar and the ¼” extension) I recommend these for removing a couple things since you can put pressure with your thumb on the end and unscrew it with the other hand. This insures that you will not over tighten any parts, and ensure that you will not strip the heads of the bolts. Ok, now that you have the tools, let’s start by putting the bike on a bike stand. I put it on the stand rather than the kickstand because it’s more stable and sits higher. I hate working on my knees. Start by taking the number plates off. Yes, both of them. The right side, you take off one bolt and the top comes off of its rubber grommets, pull the top off, and the plate comes right off. The left hand side, use the 10mm socket to take the battery bolts off, and then take the Phillips bolt near the back. Again, rubber grommets are used to hold the top in place. Take the seat off. There are two mounting bolts on the back: Those two bolts are both a 12mm socket. Use the open end wrench on the inside, and use the socket on the outside. You may need to use an extension if you don’t have a deep socket. Once you have the two bolts off, slide the seat back, and lift it up. This is what you have. Notice there is a hook in the middle and a knob on the tank. That is what you are sliding the seat off of. Now that the seat is off, you must take the gas tank off. Don’t worry, you won’t spill any gas any where, I promise. On the left hand side of the bike where the valve is, slide down the metal clip holding the tube in place. Turn off the gas supply, and slip the tube off slowly. Now take off the two bolts in the front of the take. This is on the lowest part of the gas tank in the front, behind the tank shrouds. The socket you will use is an 8mm socket. Take the bolts all the way off and set them aside. Now look back at the last picture posted. On the back of the tank, there is a rubber piece connected to the knob and the frame. Slip that rubber piece off of the frame. Pull the vent tube out of the steering stem and lift the tank up. Don’t tip it, and lay the tank aside where you won’t trip on it. This is what you’ll end up with: It may be a good idea to take a rag, and wipe all the dirt off the top of the bike if any. You don’t want anything dropping down into the carb. If you do, engine damage is the result. A clean bike is always a good thing! Now we must drain the gas out into that container. This is very easy. Make sure you open the garage door, windows, whatever, to let the fumes out. Breathing this crap is bad. Here is where the drain screw is: (Don’t worry about removing the carb, that comes later) This is on the right side of the carb, on the float bowl. The vent tube that goes down to the bottom of the bike is where the gas drains to. Put the jar under that tube and start to unscrew that screw, enough so that the gas leaks into that jar. Once the gas doesn’t drip anymore, close the screw all the way. Now on to the top of the carb. We are going to take this cover off: This cover comes off by removing the two screws. Once removed, the lid comes off as well as the gasket. Flip it over and set it aside. Do not set the gasket side down on the ground, as it will get contaminants! Here is what you are facing: The angle of the camera cannot show the two screws. But one is visible. It has a red dot, and opposite of that side is a darker red dot. I made it darker because it’s not visible, but that is where it is. This is where I use the miniature screw drivers to get the screws. I magnetize the screwdrivers, and use care to make sure I don’t strip the heads. Metal pieces in a piston are not good! Remove the two screws. Put these screws on a clean surface so they do not get contaminants. Now get your vise grips and set it so that it will lock onto the throttle, not too tight, not too loose. Set the vise grips on the seat. Start to open the throttle slowly as you guide that “plunger holder” (as I call it) up to the top. Once you have the throttle all the way open, take the vise grips, and lock it so that the throttle does not go back any more. What I do is I hold it pinned and lock it up against the brake so it doesn’t rewind on me. If you don’t have locking grips, a friend will do, just have them hold the throttle open all the way until you are finished. How fold the plunger holder to the back of the carb and pull the piece up to the top. Take care not to remove it, as it is a pain to get back together! If it came apart on you, this is what it should be assembled to: Once you get the holder out of the slider, set it back like this: As you can see, the bar is back 45 degrees, while the holder is forward 45 degrees to make a S. Here is what you are faced with when you look down on the carb: Where the red dot is where the needle lies. Grab needle nose pliers and carefully pull up the needle out of its slot. This is what the needle looks like once it is out. Now we must move the carb to take the bowl off. Untie the two straps on the front and back of the carb. Don’t take them off; just loosen them until the threads are at the end. Take the front of the carb off the boot and twist the bowl as much as you can towards you. Tie the back tie down to that it does not rewind back on you. This is what you have: Now we must take off the bowl. Some people take that hex nut off to change the main jet, which you can, but you cannot access the pilot jet, and you can’t take out the needle jet (a piece the needle slides into), so we need to take it off. It’s just three bolts. As we look at the underside of the carb, this is what you will see: The bolts with the red square dots are the bolts you will be removing. These are Phillips head bolts, and the bolt with the blue dot is your fuel screw. This is what you will adjust when the time comes, but keep in mind where that bolt is. You need a small flat blade to adjust it. Well, take those screws off, and you are faced with this: The blue dot is for cross reference, which is the fuel screw once again. The green dot is the pilot jet. You can remove this using a flat blade screwdriver. Just unscrew it and pull it out. Once you pull it out, set it aside and put in the 45 pilot jet you got. The red dot is the main. You remove this by using a 6mm socket. Just unscrew it. If the whole thing turns, not just the jet, but the 7mm sized socket under it, don’t worry, that piece has to come out as well. If it doesn’t, use a 7mm to unscrew it off. Here is what the jets look like: Pilot Jet Main jet attached to the tube. Take the main jet off by using an open end wrench and a socket on the jet. Again, it screws right off. Here is what you are faced with if you look form the bottom up. From left to right: Main jet, Pilot Jet, Fuel screw. Now in the main jet’s hole, if you look closely, you see a bronze piece in the middle of that hole. We are going to take this off. Since I did not do this part (I only changed my pilot jet when I took these pictures) there are no pictures taken for this section but this is really simple to do if you’ve been a good student and know where things go. You should know anyways, you have to put the bike back together! (Notice: There have been discussions about these needle jets being the same. Only change this needle jet if the one you have is worn out. If you do not have the old needle, a older drill bit bigger than 3/20ths (.150), and smaller than 11/100 (.11") Use the tapered side of the bit, set it down in the hole and tap it out carefully.) Now take your OLD needle, I repeat, the OLD needle because what you are going to do next will ruin it. Pull the clip off with your needle nose pliers, or a tiny screwdriver to pry it off. Then put the needle back in the hole where it goes. That’s right, just to clarify, you took off the needle, and you put the needle back in the hole with no clip. Slide the point side first, just as it would go normally. Now if you look at the bottom of the carb, the needle is protruding past the main jets hole. Grab another pair of locking pliers (vise grips as I call them) and lock it as tight as you can on the needle. Pull with all your might on the needle. Use two hands. Have a friend hold the carb so you don’t pull it off the boot. Tell them to stick their fingers in the hole that goes to the engine, and pull up. After pulling hard, the needle jet should slip right off. Then notice which side goes towards the top of the carb. There is one side that is a smaller diameter than the other. Take the new needle jet, and push it up into the hole the way the old one was set. Just get it straight. Take the tube the main jet goes into, and start threading it in. Once you can’t tie it down anymore with a ratchet, unscrew it and look at the needle jet to make sure it’s set. That’s it for the needle jet. Now let’s start putting the carb back together. (Notice: Many people have destroyed jets and such by overtighting them! Use the thumb on the head of the wrench and two fingers on the wrench to tighten it down.) Thread the main jet into the tube it goes into, and then start putting it back on the carb. Thread the pilot jet in as well if you haven’t done so already. Remember these carburetor metals are soft as cheese, so don’t over tighten the jets very much. What I do is I put my thumb on the top of my ratchet, and use two fingers closest to the head of the ratchet to tighten the jet. That’s how tight I go when I tie them back in. Now before we put the carb back together, let’s adjust the fuel screw. Take a small screwdriver, and start screwing in the fuel screw until it sets. Again, do not over tighten, just let it set. Then count back your turns. Count back 1.75 turns. Now we must put the bowl back on. The white piece that came off with the bowl goes back as followed: If you look directly under the carb, the round hole is aligned with the pilot jet. Take the float bowl, and put it back on. Untie the rear clamp and the front clamp as well. Slip the carb back the way it used to. Make sure that it is straight up and down with the rest of the bike. The notch on the front boot should be aligned with the notch on the carburetor, and the notch on the carburetor should be in that slot. Tie the clamps down securely. Let’s put the needle in. These are how the needle numbers go: The top clip position is #1, the lowest one, closest to the bottom, is #5. (The picture says six but it is five in this case) For reference #1 is the leanest position, while 5 is the richest. I put the clip in the 4th position. Read at the bottom of the page and you can know what conditions I ride in, and you can adjust them to your preference. Put the clip in the new needle, slip it in. Take the vise grips off your grips and start guiding the plunger holder down to the bottom. Remember not to let that assembly come apart because it is a pain in the ass to get it back together! Once you get it to the bottom, put the two screws on, and then put the cover on. Now that you have done the carburetor mods, there is still one thing you want to do to complete the process. Don’t worry, this takes less than a minute! On the top of the air box there is a snorkel: As you can see, you can slip your fingers in and pull it out. Do that. This lets more air in to the air box. Don’t worry about water getting in. There is a lip that is about 1/8” high that doesn’t let water in. When you wash, don’t spray a lot under the seat, but don’t worry about it too much. The next thing you must do is remove the exhaust baffle. The screw is a torx type, or you can carefully use an allen wrench and take care not to strip it: The screw is at the 5 o’clock position and all you do is unscrew it, reach in, and yank it out. This setup still passes the dB test. The bike runs 92 dB per AMA standards, which is acceptable. Just carry this baffle in your gear bag if the ranger is a jerk off. I’ve never had a problem, but don’t take chances. That’s it! Start putting your tank on, seat, and covers. After you put the seat on, pull up on the front, and the middle of the seat to make sure the hooks set in place. Turn on the bike, and take a can of WD-40. Spray the WD-40 around the boot where it meets the carburetor. If the RPM rises, you know you have a leak, and the leak must be stopped. You must do this to make sure there are no leaks! Here is my configuration: 04’ 230F Uni Air filter 132 Main Jet 45 Pilot Jet Power up needle, 4th clip position Fuel screw 1.75 turns out Riding elevation: 2000ft - Sea level Temperature – Around 60-90 degrees Spark Plug Tips When you jet your carb, a spark plug is a best friend. Make sure your spark plug is gapped correctly, (.035) but that’s not all that matters. You want to make sure the electrode is over the center, and you want the electrode to be parallel, not like a wave of a sea. Put in the plug, and run the bike for 15 mins, ride it around too then turn it off. Then take off the spark plug after letting the bike cool. The ceramic insulator should be tan, like a paper bag. If it is black, it is running rich, if it is white, it is running lean. The fuel screw should be turned out if it is running lean, and turned in if it is running rich. Go ¼ turns at a time until your plug is a nice tan color. Making sure your bike is jetted correctly While you are running the bike for those 15 mins to check the plug color, you want to make sure it’s jetted correctly now. Here is what the jets/needle/screw control: 0- 3/8 throttle – Pilot jet ¼ to ¾ throttle – Needle 5/8 – full throttle – Main jet 0-Full – Fuel screw Pin the gas, does it bog much? Just put around, is it responsive? When you’re coming down a hill, the rpm’s are high and you have no hand on the throttle, does it pop? If it pops, it is lean and the pilot jet should be bigger. If it’s responsive your needle is set perfectly. You shouldn’t have to go any leaner than the 3rd position, but I put mine in the 4th position to get the most response. Your bike shouldn’t bog much when you have it pinned. If it does it is too rich of a main jet. Determining the plug color, you will have to mess with the fuel screw. That’s it, have fun jetting, and any questions, post on the forum, but remember to do a search first. Also, if your bike requires different jets due to alititude, humidity, or temperature, please post the following so we can better assist you: Average temperature Altitude (If you do not know this, there is a link in the Jetting forum that you can look up your alititude) Average Humidity What jets you are currently running What the problem is (If there is one) Just do that and we'll help you out the best we can. EDIT: The girl using this login name is my girlfriend. You can reach me on my new login name at 250Thumpher Then again, you're more than welcome to say hi to her! -Phill Vieira
  15. Ok, guy's here's the thread that I was talking about. Let's put our settings and MOD's so we can keep track of what's working and what's not. I found out today that our bikes have a GPS (Gear Position Sensor) built into the ECU so just uploading maps may not work. Also, what's your TPS setting and is it working? Also, what MOD's have you done? Mine, so far. TPS: .64 MOD's: FMF 4.1 Factory slip on Removed all SMOG Crap (You must leave the Secondary Air valve connected-electrically) or you will get a fault code. All hoses can be removed and plugged. The carbon canister is built within the front downtube on the frame-No need to remove it, just the hoses.
  16. Post up pics of you RMZ! All the plastics are off of mine right now but I will get pis up soon..
  17. This current fad of people going all ga-ga over KTM motorcyles is hilarious. Over priced, under engineered 'fashion' statement motorcycles are duping people left and right into this fake engineering game. Iv'e seen this same thing before with cars: Mercedes, Audi, Porsche, Maserati, Ferrari, Fiat, Lamborghit, etc, etc. Create a really stunning 'hook' of a machine, that everyone wants to own, then sell enough to figure out how to keep them from blowing up, and falling apart, hopefully by the next model year or two. Oh, don't get me wrong....Mercedes does make some really great cars. But MOST of the cars they make are not so hot. They are poorly designed, over priced, and un-reliable. Same with the other euro manufactuers. Fiat make several really great cars, like the 500. But all the rest are just garbage commerce. This is EXACTLY what KTM is doing. Throw 15 different models on the market, all based on old technology, but with shiny billet parts, or ultra-impressive specs, and see what happens. KTM is providing their customers with sub-standard quality and engineering on dozens of levels, selling it as 'high-tech' and then ignoring all the issues with oil starvation, throttle bodies, frames, triple clamps, shock mounts, CDI's, bars, brakes, rims, hubs, all failing, braking wearing out extremely fast, or in the case of motor internals, make them to such terrible tolerances that you cannot change broken parts with new parts, unless you buy the matching case it was machined to. I have never seen or experienced such CRAP sold as a premium brand in my life, accept Audi in the 90's and Maico in the 80's. I've owned (2) 2012 KTM's that both failed on several levels, that the KTM factory, KTM usa and my dealer could not resolve. I even had KTM USA tell me 'that's just the way it is with new bikes sometimes. We don't have an answer to your problem, sorry". My dealer was so frustrated that they now refuse to work on any KTM that has been modifed in the suspension, electronics, or motor, period, even out of warranty. They also will not replace any internal motor parts below the piston without replacing the entire motor, no exceptions. Yeah I know: ..... " My KTM is great, I've never had a problem with it" . Well good for you. You are in the 50% that actually get a 'good' one. Did you know that until recently (2010) KTM would and did make as many as 6 different gasket sets for one model of motor, depending on what portion of the year it was made? They actually look up gasket kits by serial number, because the factory produced a motor with so many flaws and failures that they had to upgrade the motor in the production line 6 times in one year....rather than just get it right and then push it on the general public. I talked to an KTM partially sponsered Enduro team at a D36 race in 2012 about KTM reliability, and this is what they told me: " Oh, we get 50-75 hours out of the factory motor, no problem. They run great, most of the time. Not quite as long as the Yamaha we used to run, but they are Ok. The real problem comes when we try to rebuild them. We cannot get a rebuilt motor to last 1/2 as long as a new one, because there are so many parts in the KTM motors that are stressed at 100% from day one, that the whole motor, not just the top end, wears out very fast". We try not to rebuild the motors, we just sell off the whole bike and start over with a new one." Hopefully, honest, non-Germanic companies like Beta and Sherco will take some of KTM's market share away. Long die KTM.
  18. I haven’t seen a lot of info on Mods for the 2017 KTM 300 XC, so here is what I have done to my bike. I got my bike about 2 1/2 months ago. I took it out for some break in rides and it ran terrible. I mean horrible. It was so rich it struggled everywhere I went. I read everything I could find on the Mikuni and realized it was a problem. JD didn’t have a jet kit out yet, but I found info on the Lectron carb that was quite encouraging. You shouldn’t have to buy a carb for a $9,400 bike, but I decided to do just that. The Lectron was supposed to fix my jetting issues, get me better fuel economy and self adjust as I change altitude. While I was waiting for the new Carb, I used the supplied jets and found a combo that ran fair. Not good. I started putting some time on the bike and quickly got confident in the suspension. It is much better than my old 2014 KTM 450 XC suspension was after I spent $900 on its suspension. While I felt like my $900 was well spent and the 4CS suspension was much better than stock, it fell far short of the new air fork on my 300xc. I am much faster in the whoops on the new 300 than I was on my 2014 450xc. I race expert in the desert and do pretty good, just for reference. Back to the Mikuni. I got the bike jetted so it ran decently (not great) I did a test loop. I ran the bike hard. It was 25 miles of sand washes, sand single track and sand whoops It was a tight technical loop. I measured everything very close, (I use Strava). I averaged 24 MPH and 1.75 gallons of gas with the mikuni carb. I was a little bummed because that isn't good enough MPG to finish some of my race loops with the stock tank. Then I did the same loop again with the Lectron carb. I averaged 25.7 MPH and used 1.25 gallons of gas. Faster less gas Yea! I had heard that the Lecton used less gas. I'm a believer. The Lectron fixed my jetting, and gave me much better fuel economy. One other benefit of the Lectron is that they recommend running 100:1 amsoil Saber premix. I run the amsoil, but at 80:1. I’m chicken to run 100:1. I put one of the 1st Lectrons on a 2017 and had to do a little adjusting to mine, but it was easy. I believe they have them dialed in for the 2017s now just plug and play. To race I need a spark arrester. I went with the EE enduro engineering end cap. There maybe a better set up, but when I got it FMF didn’t have anything out yet and I had read that KTM pipe and silencer was pretty good. I stayed with stock and have a removable spark arrester. Runs great, I like it I put a plastic skid plate on. I got a AXP from England. It was the only one I could find and I wanted plastic. They are quitter, allow the bike to flex properly and slide over rocks. I like aceribis, but they didn’t have one yet. Luckily my spare wheel set for my old 450 fits the new bike with the addition of new front wheel spacers. I believe I got mine from Slaven Racing. I read a lot of good reports on having the head on the 300’s machined or replaced with a higher compression head. Non were available for the 2017s yet so I called Slaven’s racing and ask them about milling my head. They said they had done some and for $55 I could mod my head. I gave them my elevation and had it done. I got it back after about 10 days. I think you can get it done faster, but I’m from a small town and had some shipping issues on my end. The motor is stonger on the the bottom and mid. The power hits right now to. For $55 it’s a great mod. They will have a head out soon that will have 2 inserts, one for low elevation and one for high elevation. My head is set for low elevation. It runs great on pump gas and will also work better than stock at high elevation, just not as good as the high elevation head at high elevation. The high elevation head will ping at low elevation without race gas. I ride at 1700’ so the low elevation head is best for me. I put Bullet Proof Designs Radiator guard on. They are guaranteed for life and very light. Only just slightly heavier than the plastic ones they replace. I feel confident the radiator can take a hit now and not be damaged. We have a big hill in Mesquite, NV where I ride. Its very big and very steep. 3rd or 4th gear pinned to have a chance at climbing it. I was a little less than 50% on my 450, but this light weight has but to the top 9 out of 10 tries. And that was before the head work was done. I’m very happy to be back on a 2 stroke. The counterbalancer makes the motor so smooth it feel almost electric. I’m not getting anything from Lectron or Slaven racing, but I highly recommend them for 300s. They have done testing on the 2017 300’s and have been very helpful.
  19. I have already been posting a lot of Beta vids in one place in this one Youtube Beta Playlist but I know you all have more to add. You're welcome to watch and/or add vids for all of us to enjoy... Here's my last addition to the list.. ..and the Beta list.. Got more?
  20. Can we make a sticky thread of pictures? I've done search for pics but I want to see all sorts of bikes just for ideas on stuff without having to go through tons of threads. Not trying to sound whiny or anything, but I think it would be nice to do what they do in the CRF250X forums with a sticky thread of just pics, no comments or anything. Think we can get one of those rolling here?
  21. Installed a new skid plate, new brakes front & rear, and just ordered new fork springs from RaceTech. Getting ready for the annual Desert 100 at the end of March
  22. First off i just wanted to hear if at all possible some people's experiences with the XR500 in particular... is it a good bike? I dont have any experience with Honda's RFVC motors. The 83 XR500 looks to be in great shape but the surprising thing is what has been done to it.. ive never seen it done on one of these. The story goes that the previous owner was a parts manager for a local Honda dealership in town and had access to the best of the best in parts.. From what i can tell by the pictures the bike has inverted forks redone by racetech, a dessert tank, some kind of aftermarket rear air shock, excel rims,a supertrapp exhaust but the most interesting of all is that it has a rear disk conversion... Ive never seen one of these bikes with a rear disk conversion, is it common? also the current owner does not know what the front fork came off; would it be hard to find out where there from to replace fork seals in the future? the same goes for the rear disk concerning pads As far as a trade do you guys think its worth it? The XR500 was recently pulled out of the guys shed the carbs were cleaned and the bike started up first kick supposedly, im going to go see it this afternoon. The yz (i attached a picture) has redone suspension as well, newer tires, renthal sprockets, FMF power bomb header and titanium 4 silencer and a few other things. Thanks in advance!
  23. Just installed my full yoshimura ehxuast, clipped backfire screen, couple more holes in the air box and removed the snorkel. Is my EJK set correctly? I bought it second hand so I don't know what settings I'm running per the video below. Thanks! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5fKlrM-21DM
  24. The new (oil injected) X-Trainer 300 has been revealed in Milan yesterday. http://www.enduro360.com/2014/11/02/featured/beta-x-trainer-300/ I'm leaving for Milan today (work stuffs) but i wil be at EICMA saturday to take a look. If you have specific questions, i can ask...