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Found 9,309 results

  1. Had a few people who saw my KX250 stator I made ask about one for YZ250's. Check out my thread in the Kawi 2 stroke forum and let me know what you think. looks like the 99-12 share the same bolt pattern on the ignition cover so it should work out well. http://www.thumpertalk.com/topic/941124-making-my-own-external-lighting-stator-for-kx250/
  2. Ok, guy's here's the thread that I was talking about. Let's put our settings and MOD's so we can keep track of what's working and what's not. I found out today that our bikes have a GPS (Gear Position Sensor) built into the ECU so just uploading maps may not work. Also, what's your TPS setting and is it working? Also, what MOD's have you done? Mine, so far. TPS: .64 MOD's: FMF 4.1 Factory slip on Removed all SMOG Crap (You must leave the Secondary Air valve connected-electrically) or you will get a fault code. All hoses can be removed and plugged. The carbon canister is built within the front downtube on the frame-No need to remove it, just the hoses.
  3. I have a 2000 YZ250 that I plan on racing in my first ever harescramble on March 12. The bike is completely stock, although I am ordering some g2 ergonomics hand guards. It also has works connection from guards. What would you guys recomend for pre race prep (things to check) and any other advice you can give me, thanks.
  4. Installed a new skid plate, new brakes front & rear, and just ordered new fork springs from RaceTech. Getting ready for the annual Desert 100 at the end of March
  5. Wanted to create a place where we can gather our info about our beloved 200's. Myself am new to the club and have been drawing information from those of you experienced 200 owners. My goal is to have this information in one place, where we can post jetting, susp, tips and tricks, and other pertinent info related to this bike. I know some of it will cross over, but the 200 is a little different from it's bigger brothers. Provide your personal information concerning setup, links to other threads or webpages, changes made and results, etc.If this goes well, would like to see it get stickied.
  6. I've read through many of the sag threads on TT and on the web. This question is about getting more experienced opinions on specific numbers rather than a how to. I used RaceTech's calculator to order a new rear spring for my 2015 WR250F since I'm 220 w/o gear and from what I've read the bike comes with springs better suited to 170 - 180. The calculator came back with spring rate of recommendation for 6.189 kg/mm and suggested picking the spring they offered that was closest to that, so I chose 6.3 kg/mm. I installed the spring over the weekend and what I'm seeing makes me wonder if this the right rate for me. The first thing that seemed odd is I had to tighten the spring adjuster 34 turns, which feels really far down, I'd say a good 3/4 of the adjustment threads. The stock spring was 20 turns down, so 14 more feels like a lot. Or maybe this means nothing? Sag measurements : Static: 670 Free: 647 With rider: 564 I know that technically a sag of 106 is within the recommended range of 90 - 110, but the free sag of 23 seems very low (I've read the lower limit is 20) and well below the recommendation for this bike of 30 or so. And if I understand how this works at all, if I want to lower the sag to say 100, the free sag may go down even more. The measurements were done using RaceTech's instructions, (included with the spring and shown at http://www.racetech.com/page/title/Sag) and after watching a bunch of videos, including good ones by Stillwell Performance (youtube.com/watch?v=f9w1GuDQftg) and Rocky Mountain ATV (youtube.com/watch?v=fRXmJeRQCRw). I used a metric tape measure so I could be +/- 1mm but I don't think enough to change my concerns. I haven't ridden the bike yet, plan to tomorrow, but if there's any chance this setup is wrong I'd rather put the stock back on and get the right spring. I'm basically a new rider, back after 35 years away, but I've put on 2000 training miles in seven months (SoCal desert) and work hard at improving. I'm also learning my way around wrenching on bikes--this was a great learning experience as I took apart the swingarm, relay arm and shock assembly and got everything cleaned and regreased--but I don't have the common sense that experience provides and thus this sanity check. I'd love to hear "this is all good, shut up and ride" but if not I want to get it right. Thanks.
  7. Ok so its around 1 month until they hit the dealers floors here, anyone else getting excited? My '13 had done me proud. Loved it but I probably kept it longer than I really wanted to as the 24/15/16 just didn't seem like enough of a change, and I got it running so well. It had a cpl of different looks along the way, but its time for the new one now. Goodbye '13 you were great.
  8. With a tip of the hat to a similar thread on the ADV forum, what did you do to yer beloved Beta today ? I spooned on a fresh MT43 (yum !) and attempted to bump up to a 50 tooth in the rear. I was disappointed to discover the chain was not long enough to accommodate the 50 tooth - and had to revert to the heavily worn stock 48 tooth sprocket. As my chain still has plenty o' life in it, I'll order me up a IronMan 48 tooth, and bump to the 50 when the chain needs replacin' .
  9. I'm on the verge of bringing my bike to the dealer, but before I do that I wanted to see if I'm missing something. My bike has a stock exhaust with the peashooter removed, competition ecu, fmf exhuast map programmed into the ecu. I have about 180 miles on the bike, which has been nearly all trail action. I checked the intake valves and they're not even close to being out of spec. Here's the issue... When the bike is cold and in nuetral, I pull the starter knob and it will start on the second try everytime. If I put the bike in gear, I can't get it started. When cold, that's not a big deal though. On the trails, I have trouble restarting after stopping. Which is a big deal, IMHO. The bike will not start when in gear, which is extremely inconvenient. When the bike is hot, I have to pull the starter knob again, find neutral and start. Sometimes it starts right away, but usually it starts after 4 or 5 tries. Usually. Here's the interesting part. I can kick start the bike pretty easily when hot and in gear or not. Why is that???? My battery is nearly new and has been on a trickle charger. I spent 4 days on the trails at Hatfield-McCoy and the bike is quite frankly a pain in the a$$ because it doesn't start easily with the button. If I'm on the side of a hill wrestling with my bike, the last thing I want to do is reach down to find the starter knob and then on top of that find the ever elusive nuetral in the gearbox... It seems like a silly issue... Yamaha wouldn't build a bike that was a hard starter, would they???? Your opinions, and help are appreciated. Thanks, Jon
  10. This idea came about after I visited the adventure riders website. After seeing all the nice pictures that were taken from trails, I decided to start a thread focusing on the nicest areas you can take a picture of your Drz. I think I was just so bored today too. Here I'll set it off...
  11. I washed mine, even though it was clean.
  12. 3yrs ago I parted ways with my trusty KTMs and jumped onto the Yamahas... Starting first with a YZ250 that I built into the ultimate woods bike, it was 'almost' everything one could want. But it did lack the e-start, HO stator and 6spd, things that I really wanted as the ultimate machine. Then a new YZ450F made it into my garage which I built into a woods machine (the FX didn't exist at the time). All the power in the world so a 6spd wasn't needed. But I still lacked the button and fat stator. Shortly after a large crash and some broken body parts, I then moved to the new YZ250FX which has been with me the last year. Coming with a near perfect 6spd, a 100+W stator and the magic button it should have been near perfect. But I did want for more. The bike was heavier then it's competition, taller and underpowered, but overall probably the best beginner/average riders bike available. There is no question that the Yamahas could be anything you wanted. I had great success on all 3 bikes with near bullet proof reliability, fantastic motors, outstanding suspension and unquestionable race worthiness adding a few wins and multiple podiums to my resume. But... ...when KTM introduced their new 16 models, it was hard not to look over the fence to see if the grass was greener. Could my criterias be met? So on Saturday, I picked up a new 2016 KTM 350xcf. On paper, 'most' of all criterias are met. -6spd? Check! -Lightweight? Check! -Less power then the 450, but more then the 250FX? Check! -Magic Button? Check! -HO stator? Uncheck! So outside the stator, the 350xcf is looking pretty good on paper. Why not a new 250/300 2t? As mentioned in another thread, I rode a couple 300s and wasn't neqrly as impressed as I wanted to be. So why the 16 over the 17? Cost and cost alone was pretty much the deciding factor. Outside of the AER the bikes are virtually identical. With nearly a $2000 savings between the 2 it left money I table I could spend elsewhere. And after talking with a bunch of tuners, at worst if I can't get the 4CS working, the extra money can be used for another fork options such as a KYB internal setup, or CV cartridges. So, I started this thread to kind keep my trials and tribulations on update for you wonderful folk on TT. Adding my opinion, impressions, mods, results and all that other jazz... Initial impression while sitting on the stand seem good. I've been tearing it apart greasing everything, weighed a few parts and giving it the look over. I question if the bike is built for long haul. It seems extremely well put together, but almost too well. The plastic lines blend well with no areas for hangups as well the bike feels thins, especially compared to any current Yamaha 4t. The bike also feels low and long, where as the Yamaha 4ts feel tall and short. Equally so the bike feels light and easy to throw on a stand with well placed grab handles.
  13. So, the '12 never let me down. What a crazy good all around bike. Had no intentions of getting rid of it. I recently got ready to freshen it up and tallied up the cost and decided rather than dump a bunch into it, I'd pick up another one and take what almost 4 years has taught me about the bike and apply it to a new canvas. So today the '12 loaded up into the truck for the last time.... And it was replaced with a '16.... First order of business will be to dial in the suspension, go around the bike with a wrench on EVERYTHING and then break it in for an hour and then dump the oil. And then...... Well, I'll address pulling smog, canister, blinkers, fixing the suicide side stand, slight riser, tps, map, xcw rear plate holder, grab handle, hdb guards, stabilizer, lighting, tires, tubes, springs, trip switch for bars, bar map switch, 3g tank, and the list will grow. Unfortunately it'll be a few weeks before I can get started as I have a full plate. But looking forward to it....
  14. My dirt bike was driven daily no issues besides petcock leaking a little gas and one day It quit running while I was riding it and started acting up the next day I tried and it would start but it wouldn't idle I would have to rev it high to stay running and it would backfire real bad this was a couple months ago anyone know what could be the issue if so let me know please gonna look at it tomorrow thank you in advance
  15. Been having starting problems with my 09 KX450F lately and the shop diagnosed it and said it's the fuel pump not holding pressure. I don't want to pay the $400+ for a whole new assembly and I found aftermarket places that sell just the pump for under $50. Tried doing some research to see if I could replace just the pump but found nothing. So I was wondering if anybody on here has any experience with these pumps and know if I can replace just the pump or if I need to replace the whole assembly? Thanks!
  16. Post up your mods, tech and any you info have here. What works for what weight, your adjustments, shock tech, fork tech, steering stabilizer info, whatever you got... All in one place so everything for easy access... Lets see what you got.
  17. I am looking into getting a "new to me" bike after blowing the engine on my 125, finally giving me an excuse. I am torn between the crf250r and 06-08 crf450r. I'm 200+lbs and like the tight woods and single track. I am not sure how much more the torque of the 450 would help. But it couldn't hurt either since I'm fairly heavy. 98% of my riding is woods/enduro I rarely ride washougal mx track and other nearby tracks but not much.. Anyone know why the 450s are cheaper than the same year 250s? Several hundred bucks apart currently The 9lb difference between bikes doesn't seem like a whole lot when I am 200lbs not 135. Is the 450 a more tractable bike in the nasty stuff? I have read a lot of mixed reviews saying it is a dream woods bike and the close ratio trans is awesome for the woods and some complaining that it is too much
  18. Okay guys and gals. Here we go with a thread for those riding toward senility---or maybe already there! I have some concerns about "slowing down", but will get into that later. Not in the mood for it tonight. Cj mentioned in the other thread about the bikes with much bigger engines than needed. I don't understand that either. Maybe it has to do with man's fascination with power. LOL--and if you put stickers all over your bike, it makes it even MORE powerful. Then put loud pipes on it and it becomes a REAL monster. Stupid thinking isn't it. Wait a minute--I just had a flashback. Okay, Let's change the subject. Who's next?
  19. This current fad of people going all ga-ga over KTM motorcyles is hilarious. Over priced, under engineered 'fashion' statement motorcycles are duping people left and right into this fake engineering game. Iv'e seen this same thing before with cars: Mercedes, Audi, Porsche, Maserati, Ferrari, Fiat, Lamborghit, etc, etc. Create a really stunning 'hook' of a machine, that everyone wants to own, then sell enough to figure out how to keep them from blowing up, and falling apart, hopefully by the next model year or two. Oh, don't get me wrong....Mercedes does make some really great cars. But MOST of the cars they make are not so hot. They are poorly designed, over priced, and un-reliable. Same with the other euro manufactuers. Fiat make several really great cars, like the 500. But all the rest are just garbage commerce. This is EXACTLY what KTM is doing. Throw 15 different models on the market, all based on old technology, but with shiny billet parts, or ultra-impressive specs, and see what happens. KTM is providing their customers with sub-standard quality and engineering on dozens of levels, selling it as 'high-tech' and then ignoring all the issues with oil starvation, throttle bodies, frames, triple clamps, shock mounts, CDI's, bars, brakes, rims, hubs, all failing, braking wearing out extremely fast, or in the case of motor internals, make them to such terrible tolerances that you cannot change broken parts with new parts, unless you buy the matching case it was machined to. I have never seen or experienced such CRAP sold as a premium brand in my life, accept Audi in the 90's and Maico in the 80's. I've owned (2) 2012 KTM's that both failed on several levels, that the KTM factory, KTM usa and my dealer could not resolve. I even had KTM USA tell me 'that's just the way it is with new bikes sometimes. We don't have an answer to your problem, sorry". My dealer was so frustrated that they now refuse to work on any KTM that has been modifed in the suspension, electronics, or motor, period, even out of warranty. They also will not replace any internal motor parts below the piston without replacing the entire motor, no exceptions. Yeah I know: ..... " My KTM is great, I've never had a problem with it" . Well good for you. You are in the 50% that actually get a 'good' one. Did you know that until recently (2010) KTM would and did make as many as 6 different gasket sets for one model of motor, depending on what portion of the year it was made? They actually look up gasket kits by serial number, because the factory produced a motor with so many flaws and failures that they had to upgrade the motor in the production line 6 times in one year....rather than just get it right and then push it on the general public. I talked to an KTM partially sponsered Enduro team at a D36 race in 2012 about KTM reliability, and this is what they told me: " Oh, we get 50-75 hours out of the factory motor, no problem. They run great, most of the time. Not quite as long as the Yamaha we used to run, but they are Ok. The real problem comes when we try to rebuild them. We cannot get a rebuilt motor to last 1/2 as long as a new one, because there are so many parts in the KTM motors that are stressed at 100% from day one, that the whole motor, not just the top end, wears out very fast". We try not to rebuild the motors, we just sell off the whole bike and start over with a new one." Hopefully, honest, non-Germanic companies like Beta and Sherco will take some of KTM's market share away. Long die KTM.
  20. Well I figured this would be a cool thread to have seeing as how quite a few of us have gotten pretty far into upgrading our 150/230s. This will be helpfull for those looking into getting things for their bike so they can see what everything looks like. '05 CRF230: -Acerbis Rally brush guards -Factory FX #'s -Renthal 7/8ths MC bend w/ soft half waffle grips -BBR +1/2" shift lever -BBR revbox -White Bros. R-4 Full Exhaust -Twin-Air and White Bros. airfilters -White Bros. 112main and 48pilot jets -Dunlop D756's w/ MSR Ultra Heavy Duty tubes
  21. Here's mine in dirt clothes And in SuMo
  22. Ok, so up until a week ago I scoured the internet daily trying to find out about the new 150 XC-W. And not from guys who ride 450's or guys who just want to grumble because the beloved 200 is dropped for the time being. The age old question had to answered: soldier on with yesterday's model or go for the latest and greatest? I wanted to hear from guys who already ride and love 150's like myself. Didn’t really find a lot of good posts. My ’17 is 1 week old, so I figured it’s time to start a thread to help others make the $8k decision. I only have 1 hour of easy (break-in) riding on the bike, so I’ll only give first impressions at this point. Wife permitting, the details will come soon! First, what’s new on the ‘17? The answer is virtually everything. You can use your old wheels and bars, but beyond that I doubt you will find anything that transfers. Maybe the pegs, but the new pegs feel great, so I’m leaving my Fastway pegs on the ’13 for now. Couple of things to note. Make darn sure the bike is jetted properly for your location. Based on the charts, the new Mikuni carb appears to be less sensitive to altitude and temperature changes, but my bike was delivered with the “wrong” needle installed. You should have 3 needles to choose from, and mine needed the leaner needle with the clip dropped one position. And beware, the numbering system for the Mikuni needles is backwards from the Keihins! Also, the bike comes with a 110 rear tire. This is not the ideal size for the 150. My advice is to wear it out and put a 100 on the bike. Personally I prefer the feel of the 100, but the real reason is that the 150 internals weren’t designed to handle the weight of a 110. Not gonna sling any mud here (pun intended), but if you were KTM and you didn’t have any other bike in the line-up that calls for a 100, what would you do? Now for the ride impression. In a word, awesome!! Very well balanced and buttery smooth feel in the pegs and bar. Ridden KTM for 18 years, and this is truly a significant step forward. The bike is lighter than my ’13 XC despite the electric start, but honestly I can’t feel a difference. The ergos however are hugely different. At 5’10” 180 pounds the ’17 just fits me better. I would purchase the bike again for this reason alone. It’s very noticeable when standing, and I stand 75% of the time. I immediately feel far more comfortable on the ’17. My ’13 350 isn’t bad, but the ’17 feels better than any other KTM I’ve owned. I’ve not set the sag of course, but at the moment the rear is way too high and stiff, so I really can’t comment on handling yet. This bike is taller, so if this might be a problem for you I’d find one that is broken in and set up for a similar weight and check it out. The new suspension feels great just play riding, but I really can’t comment until I can open it up on real trails. However, most every suspension guru on the planet seems to be saying the same thing: the new suspension is darn good at doing what it was designed to do, and many people will be happy with it in stock form. But if you want to race hare scrambles (think fast GNCC type racing) you will likely want to modify the suspension. As with all previous PDS models, the bike is apparently a little unbalanced front to rear, and this begins to show as speeds increase. For the ’17 it was described to me as “the fork isn’t actually ‘bad’, but the shock starts to overpower the fork as speeds increase across rough terrain”. I’ve had this same issue fixed on every PDS bike I’ve owned, so no surprise, just a little disappointing. Also, and this is a true design flaw in my opinion, it seems the range of adjustability on the fork compression is almost non-existent. There are tuners out there who already have a fix, but again a little disappointing for folks who don’t want to modify their suspension. My 150 is a stock ’13 XC with an SX silencer. That said, and keeping in mind I can’t really open the new bike up yet, the ’17 clearly has significantly more power across the board, with great usable torque on the bottom and a smoother transition into the meat of the power. (Keep in mind that I mean great usable torque for a 150! Doesn’t really compare to my 350 of course.) I find it much easier to play on this bike, as I don’t have to clutch and rev nearly as much. We’ll see how well this transfers to slippery East Tennessee mountain trails in a few weeks, so check back. I currently have the stock power valve spring installed and stock exhaust. I will try the yellow (more aggressive) spring after break-in. My initial impression is that with proper jetting there is more than enough grunt to satisfy 150 fans. Top end seems like it's gonna be good, but hard to say anything meaningful at this point. Can’t wait to see how it runs after break-in, and with the yellow spring and a full FMF exhaust! One step at a time :-)
  23. Haha title says it all! I have seen other threads like this one but for yz's and KTM's... What I did with my 02 cr125 today was fix some warpage on the cylinder?! Then drilled and tapped some stud bolt holes. My baby! Drilling cylinder! This kind of engine work makes me cringe! All of the studs have helicoils except for 1 lol. Post up your bikes and what you did! Let's see if we can be this thread going!