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Showing results for tags '2005'.
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Hello, I have a 2005 KLX250 and I was hoping I could get some help on finding alternate options to the OEM Front Brake Line. I am hoping to get a stainless steel line that replaces the original brake hose as well as the hard-line that runs under the caliper, aka, a line with banjo bolts either side. What other model KLX or KX's would share similar length and fitting configurations as what's required to fit the 2005 KLX250? From looking at diagrams it seems either the 09+ KLX250S or the 07+ KLX450R might fit my bike? Any help is appreciated. Thanks! Karl -
So I am currently working on a 1997 CR125 and plan to make a full race build on it. But I have been noticing that there are not very many aftermarket parts the biggest being the plastics and graphics for it due to the frame,tank,sub frame, etc. I was wondering if its possible to put that engine into a CR125 frame anywhere from 98-07 and how hard that would be to do. I have a welder but I am not confident enough to weld new motor mounts. If you guys could help me out with this that would be great.
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This is my 2005 KTM200exc and i have cracked the case, im just wondering if anyone knows what could have caused this. If you need mpre back story i can always add more.
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So i have a 2005 YZ250 and want to do the UFO Restyle kit plastics on it. I know the 2006-14 yz kits bolt straight up like stock ones. The question is, has anyone done the UFO Restyle plastics on their 05 YZ250 and it line straight up with no issues? I wouldn't worry so much but my experience with "modifying" plastics is VERY POOR and i really don't want to deal with the hassle. Thanks!
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I've posted here before looking for wr450 engine. I haven't found one yet for a reasonable price so I thought I'd try again. I'm looking for just the engine but a whole bike would be great also. Let me know what everyone has.
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So, since I got this 2005 YZ450F a few months ago, it's had a bad hot restart issue. Cleaned the carb and replaced the a/p diaphragm and it was better for awhile, but every once in awhile would still fall on its face and not want to restart. Then 2 weeks ago in Moab, I had a horrible hot stall and restart problem. So, when I got back I went and did my valve adjustment and every thing is in spec now. Cam marks, and flywheel marks all line up, chain and tensioner were in good shape so reused. I researched the jetting section of this forum, and have dropped from 165 main to a 160, 45 pilot to 42, and stock NFLR needle from clip position 4 to clip position 3. Fuel screw 1.25 turns out. Now throttle response is good, except a little flat off closed idle. Weird thing is now when I hit the kill switch, 2 seconds after the motor stops turning, it shoots a flame past the spark arrester. Also when revving, there is a single loud pop when closing throttle, but not much popping when riding on decel. I figure that is because the pilot is still too fat and should be dropped to a 40 or 38. Despite making all these changes for the better, the stalling and restarting has gotten worse. Today was my first ride since the valves and jetting, and she was running great! Best midrange response it's had. But then out of nowhere after an hour or so of riding. It kept stalling for no reason, and was acting very weird on restarting. It was as if the plug had fouled, but it was a brand new plug. After several minutes of kicking, finally restarted. Went back to the truck and took a break, and didn't want to restart. Finally got it started and ran fine for 10 minutes, then stalled on a trail going downhill like I hit the kill switch. Rolled for 20 feet still in gear and it never restarted. Was stranded in the back field of my local track for 20 minutes, finally got it restarted and got back to the main area. Went to do a lap on the track, and as I was pulling on, same thing, just fell on its face. Also, many times while kicking, bike would fire for a few revolutions, then nothing for another 10 kicks. So does this sound like the ignition coil is crapping out? Always runs like an angry ape after initial startup, pulling the front wheel no problem and great throttle response.
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Back story. Just finished complete rebuild new head, valves, crank, bearings seals, and muffler bearing. I've checked, double checked ,and checked again timing. Exhaust valves are .011 and the intake are. .007 (I know a frog hair loose). It will fire right up when towed and it will stay running. So I am assuming ( I know) the carb probably needs some help. Can you guys point me in the right direction as I am baffled by carburetor theory and function. By the way happy Mother's Day to any that are reading brad
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Hello I am looking for a set of cases for a 05 KX250 2 stroke. Part # is 14001-0021. From what I can tell cross referencing parts, 06-07 are practically identical to 05 and have all the same internals. the part # for 06-07 is 14001-0065. Anybody out there who might have some lying around collecting dust? Kawasaki discontinued manufacturing these apparently
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Recently got my dirtbike back after being stolen. What is the best clutch lever, throttle housing and grips on the market? Want a buttery smooth clutch.
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Hey guys Just got a killer deal on a 2005 TTR-125L. My question is, Will the newer model plastics work on the older models ? Any cosmetic updates that can be achieved to make it look more like the newer models ? Any aftermarket companies ? Thx
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My dad and I have two XR650Ls, one is a 2005, the other is a 2008. We've been trying to get the carburetor tuned, but we've been having some trouble finding the right way to route all the hoses. Both of them have had Dave's mod done, and they've been uncorked and have an FMF Powercore 4 slip on exhaust. They're jetted at 55 and 158 at about 6,500 feet above sea level. Fairly often, when I'm cruising around 40 mph, the exhaust pops and the bike loses power for a split second. That's the main problem that I've noticed. Also, on my bike, if I let off the throttle without pulling in the clutch, it pops a ton. I know some popping is normal, but it seems like it's a bit excessive. If anyone has any tips on routing the carburetor hoses, or any other tips to get them running right, it'd be greatly appreciated. Thank you.
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I have a kx250 2 stroke and I broke the kick lever and am trying to replace it. I only need the lever, everything else is fine but I can not find a lever for it anywhere.
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2005 yz250 runes fine on the stand. Rode it down the street today and when I gave it more gas it almost seems like something inside the engine slipped and caught cause it pulled. When riding in low RPM's it will run fine and shift fine. Once I give it more gas rising the RPM's the bike with cut-out for half a second before "re-attaching" and continue to pull. I use the phrase "re-attaching" because I don't know any other way to explain it. So the bike goes Pulling, pulling, pulling, cut-out for half second, back to pulling pulling. Seems to happen in every gear. Any help is apricated!
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Hi everyone I’m looking for some help. Bit of back ground. The rocker arm bearing failed on the bike so striped the motor and replaced bearings, cam chain, piston and rocker arm. fired up the bike after rebuild and I’m getting a ticking sound from what sounds like the top end. Iv checked timing, valve clearance, cam chain tensioner, auto decompressor and had the fly wheel off to check in that area. I’m waiting on some more shims to turn up and going to try a different cam. The motor has high comp piston, hot cam and kibble white valves and springs and is a CRF 250r 2005. any help would be much appreciated
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I have a 2005 kx125 and I’ve just got a fresh bottom end rebuild and the top end is fairly new the case is air tight but it keeps fouling plugs and will spit and sputter till it eventually bogs down, the power valve boot is leaking oil would that mean it’s stopped up and could be causing the fouled plugs?
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So i have a KX250f 2005 4 stroke. Its very hard to start when cold and it does not idle without choke. It slighlty pops when idling with choke. Ill try to start it cold and it wont. ill turn the choke on and start it and it will start but with very high rpm and the rpm will rise. ( i got scared and turn the bike off ). From here when the bike is kinda warm i try to start it without the choke it kinda catches for literary one second then dies. I cleaned the jets and im not sure whats wrong with the bike. Im kinda new to dirt bikes and any help would be useful
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so this will be my 1st post on any kind of forum so apologies in advance for any mistakes. i bought a 2005 YZ250F November of 2019, a few days after bringing it home i fired it up ready to go out and noticed once it had warmed up that the weep hole in the coolant pump was dripping slightly. so fast forward a few weeks after replacing the water pump seal i finally get to take it out. on low to mid throttle there was a severe intermittent loss of power, its difficult for me to explain as im new to bikes and dont really know much about them. i was told by afew people it was bogging down and could be a carb issue, ive owned pit bikes in the past and experienced bogging on those but this felt completely different, so i pulled apart the carb and it was abit of a mess, the main needle with the clip on is all pitted and discolored and all the jets have some sort of corrosion on them, the bottom of the bowl was stained with old fuel aswell as the floats so i cleaned them as best i could and took note of the jet sizes and are as follows: Leak Jet 95 Starter Jet 72 Pilot Jet 42 Main Jet 185 There is one other that i dont know the name of and it sits on the intake boot side and that is 100 To me it does not feel like a carb issue but im new like i say so not 100% so the other option i guess is a misfire? it happens low to mid revs but once you wind the power on past halfway the problem seems to dissapear and it runs fine. i dont ride track i just use it to bimble around fields so low to mid revs is really where im using it the most. i had a guy take a look at it and he instantly pointed toward electrics, he changed the spark plug from an iridium that came with he bike to a "standard" plug whatever that means. the bike idles better now and the harshness of the power loss isnt as bad but its deffo still there and is extremely annoying. he wanted to send away the whole electrical system to be tested but after he charged me £60 to change the plug i just took the bike back from him so this is where im at. kind of stuck and out of ideas so if anyone can point me in the right direction id really appreciate it. here is a video of the bike running as its easier to hear it than for me to try to explain it... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kX3IMe02hPU&list=PLzb20LSJtfUspxohQBQ3dp-n6hW5P9ZSQ&index=3&t=20s
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Short history... A friend of a friend's bike. It was rebuilt (new head, cylinder) by a previous shade tree mechanic but he couldn't get it to run. He took it apart and eventually gave up and returned it to the owner in pieces. I put it back together. I have lots of experience with FCR equipped bikes. Fix and flip several bikes for years now. Problem... It difficult to start. Hard fast kicking doesn't work. Sometimes a slow easy kick does. If it does start up, it will idle for a while (10 seconds to a min) and then dies. If the throttle is touched when idling, it will just die instantly. One time it ran ok, a little rough down low, but it actually responded to the throttle so I rode it a bit and I got about a mile away from home and it died and wouldn't start. Fun walk home. Back at the garage it did start again but has the same symptoms of dying when the throttle is touched and it will only idle for a bit, then dies. 1. Plug sparks big and blue. 2. Fuel tank flows fine with fresh gas. 3. The carb seems to be working correctly. I have gone through the carb 3 times including an ultrasonic cleaning. AP seems to work ok but not great. It shoots at the middle valve but it does hit low. Not sure how to raise the angle on that. Carb has new OEM gaskets and jets. Slide has new rubber gasket and the float is set at 8mm. I'm really at a loss here. It is probably something simple I am missing. It feels like the bike is running out of gas but all fuel related things seem to be working properly. If anyone (experienced vet mechanics) has been down this rabbit hole and has some solutions, I would surly appreciate your advice! -thanks Bob
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Bike is back to giving me trouble again. Has ran great the last few rides, but yesterday I tried to fire her up for her weekly run, and I couldn't even get a sputter out of her. Not sure if the temp has dropped enough to completely lean out the idle circuit or what. I did have the fuel screw about 3 turns out the last couple of rides due to falling air temp. Plenty of compression kicking thru the bike, and I just did a valve adjust about 15 hours ago. The only thing I can think of at this point is to put fatter main and pilot jets back in. But, open to any other suggestions that might sound plausible.
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I bought this 2005 yz250f off craigslist and i brought it home and rode it for 3 weeks just to realize when i took it apart it had a crack in the frame. I took this upon myself to purchase a new frame. The bolt holding the triangle in the rear suspension to the frame does not fit on the new frame. Yes, i am sure it is the right frame. Should i call a guy to weld the old frame or should i continue to try to get a new bolt made? -Jon
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So, I had a fabulous 2 days of riding with my family this weekend. My bike was running the best ever after finally getting it dialed in while healing up from my broken sternum. Unfortunately, during Sunday's riding, what started as an untraceable buzz, turned into an absolute obnoxious clatter by late afternoon. So, I ended up parking it in the trailer, it was almost 5pm anyway. Upon unloading my bike on Monday, I decided to start it and ride it into the shop, and the noise was unbearable and quite obvious an exhaust leak. Put the bike on the triangle stand to peak and found a 1" tear right on the first bend off of the head. So, yesterday after work I decided to pull it off and get it cleaned up. What I thought was a 1" crack turned out to be a series of cracks. It appears that at some point when the bike went down (it's been down before I got it, and has been down since) the metal must have torn just a bit, and then the vibrations and torque of the motor just started tearing the heck out of it, following every little tiny crease from getting bent. After a thorough inspection, the main crack went almost all the way around the pipe. I don't have $200 for a head pipe right now, so I'm going to have my neighboring shop try to TIG it up to get me thru the season. Not costing me anything, so it's worth a shot. Unfortunately I didn't think to take a pic before I took it over there last night. I'll try to snap a pic 1st thing this morning if the welder hasn't gotten to it yet. Has anyone else heard of or seen this before? It's a stock head pipe with a FMF silencer.
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My CRF450R was hard to start, so I took it to a shop for Valve inspection They found the valves were way off, and they have now been set to: 222 on Top 2, 179 on Bottom 2 But they warned of a very big problem - the Upper Right Cam Tower bolt is stripped in the threading, and said that would require a new Head replacement They also said the Tensioner has no tension So I am wondering how serious of a problem the Stripped Threading is on the Head, because it seems to be very expensive fix. But they also said when the Cover is on, the bolt cannot escape. Some Question: 1) If I do ride it like this, can the problem get any worse - or has the damage been done and I may as well keep riding until it stops running if an entire head is to be replaced anyways 2) What parts will I exactly need in the replacement - because if I search for CRF450R HEAD, there are multiple parts packages and they are so pricey I want to ensure I get only what I need - seems like I may want to replace Valves too if they are close; and is the Tensioner a part of that package? 3) Should I try to get a Big Bore kit or something, so the large expenditure of time and money at least puts me to a point of better than stock? Thanks in advance - let me know if any pics or anything can help - really a sad day -
Installing my freshly cleaned exhaust valve. Following the service manual. But when I'm installing the return springs on the rod they feel very loose and don't return the valve assembly when you open it. Are the springs ment to just "hook" in place without further action? Do the springs need to be "pre-wound" or anything? Shouldn't the whole assembly be snapping back to the closed position when testing it? Should the springs be kind of loose on the shaft (read side to side play)? I don't know if I'm just overthinking this, thinking about it wrong, doing something wrong or if it's the way it should be. Here's a pic (front): and side: The manual is not very clear on this point and I can't remember how it was before I disassembled because the motor has been sitting around for a while waiting for new parts.
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Where can I find the Headtube tag that has the model and year for a 2007 cr125?
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I got a new to me 05 450x, on the first ride I stopped at the gas station and battery was dead when I went to e start. It kick started fine and got me to a buddies house but after that would not start even with a full battery charge. The info I have it that when I crank the e start the power into the ignition coil is cycling between 0 and -6 volts with a battery charged to 13V. I don't know why the power is intermittent and the voltage shows negative (leads are on correctly and my battery reads positive). HELP
