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About Fourstrokenewb

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  1. Hmmmm - Interesting - I have a bog when I stab the throttle . . . . . . did you do that mod where you wired the AP arm to the throttle linkage too? I think the grinding the diaphram may have been part of that mod . . . .
  2. I almost put my AP back together with the spring on the wrong side too. But what exactly did you grind off??
  3. Hard to tell from the pic. I would hit the whole lower engine with brake cleaner,like Yanka said. then ride it up and down the street and stop and check . . . If it was countershaft, you could pop it off pretty fast and see if it is leaking. The banjo bolt on the motor is torqued to either 15 or 20 ft lb I would be surprised if that came loose. I am not sure if it comes with crush washers stock. Mine has copper washers. The strainer bolt and the drain plug likewise are about 15 ft lbs. (check my numbers out they are from memory) The strainer plug on my bike gave me the willies when I took it out an reinstalled. It went in finger tight to a point then it got real tight. I had to get it to 20 ft lbs or so to even get it to seat. Have you ever had any of these off?
  4. Looks like fun. Nice ride.
  5. Have you pulled the sprocket? I know there is collar or spacer between the counter sprocket and the bearing. Perhaps you could pull that out and get a look at the seal? Maybe you could make a "go no go" decision if you see the seal / collar? Could you just have some dirt that is causing the seal to leak? Or is the seal shredded? Or is the collar sealing surface hosed? It gets lots of abuse. It is a tough call. From what I have seen when that thing lets go . . . . it lets go. But you could maybe get some info to base your decision.
  6. Ok one final follow on my carb mounting woes. Recall I was worried about the carb not mounting straight in my airbox boot? After disconnecting wires, and loosening the oil breather box thing, I could finally get an eye on what I could not see. Once I got the carb straight, I clamped it. Then I started looking at the carb to cylinder connection. This it turns out is a boot with two hose clamps. It turned out that this boot was shoved up too far towards the cylinder. Loosening this and pulling it back allowed a good seeal there. Anybody who is reading this must be thinking that I am OCD. But, if you buy a used bike, you probably want to buy one from me. I hope all this drivel helps someone.
  7. Just a follow up. The only thing I found unnerving about this job was prying the carb back into the bike. There Is no easy line of sight where the carb attaches to the airbox (drz400e). Looking at it today, I notice carb is kind of cocked sideways. The carb does not really want to fit flush with airbox intake, and carb is not easily accessible, particularly with that black pollution box (or whatever it is). Lack of accessibility is the aspect of this bike that I do not care for.
  8. Well my carb rebuild is complete, and test riding today yielded non of the backfiring or stalling that I had before. For anyone with an olde FCR carb, you will find that rebuild kits are not very common. Only two I saw were that Keihin-FCR guy on ebay and some shop in Denmark. The ebay guy, I heard was a slime ball, and I don't know about Denmark. I opted for the "All Balls Racing" rebuild kit. It is a pretty good kit with all stock jets, new gaskets an o rings, float valve and a mixture screw, which I did not use. I also purchased a Clymer repair manual, which was very useful. Used Simple Green to clean the carb (Tye Davis racing recommended this). Hit all passaged with 60PSI compressed air. Installed my new componants. Carb used to look like it spent some time in the river. Now clean as a whistle. Put the beast back in the bike today. She fired up and runs well. So now she's running well stock. Maybe later I'll look at some mods. Thanks for all that responded to this thread.
  9. Yep - gotter done. Thanks. Hopefully this afternoon I'll see how mu "All Balls" carb repair kit works!
  10. I think I got the same kit you got. My carb looked like it was thrown into the river. I soaked it in simple green, then took the compressor to It. Looks new. Hopefully the issues I have been chasing will go away.
  11. I May try to use it. It is a cheapy. I really want to get my baseline perfomance straight before I start introducing lots of changes. By the way, I was looking at the published specs on the TPS. They stated that when throttle is closed, resistence should be "around" 5000 ohms. Mine is 4500. Wonder what symptoms this might cause. . . . the problem I am chasing is occasional backfires and stall after a moderate pull, like up a hill. . . This was one dirty carb . .
  12. Just wrapping up a carb rebuild on the 'Big Yellow Pig' . . the kit that I got to rebuild with had an extended mixture screw. . . but I am guessing this is a non starter in terms of space. Am I right?
  13. Just wrapping up a carb rebuild on the 'Big Yellow Pig' . . the kit that I got to rebuild with had an extended mixture screw. . . but I am guessing this is a non starter in terms of space. Am I right?
  14. Taking the good advice from this forum, I removed the fcr39 carb from my drz400e to clean it. So this bike has an older Slant carb. I found a tutorial by The Davis on the rebuild, but found out that what I have was not what he was rebuilding. I came to the attachment that operates the slide and concluded that I had no idea what the engineer's were thinking on this one. Went to Babbits online and found a microfiche and soon realized that if I break a few parts on this baby, I could buy a new one. So has anyone here encountered this? See picture. Does the bolt loosen? Or does the center screw loosen? The Phillips head screw loosens nothing as far as I can see. Does loosening the above allow the shaft to come out ? By removing the shaft, will there be an indexing issue with TPS? I ordered a Clymer Manual this morning. Hopefully it will help. I found a site called SuzukiServiceManuals that looks legit, but the certificate has expired. . .
  15. Ok, so spent a little time in the shed pulling this carb off of my bike. Since this bike, DRZ400e 2001, and I don't see this info in manual, does anybody here have the stock specs on how this should be jetted from factory? I do not know what changes PO would have made. This is an older carb. (see pic) Is the O ring mod good for this one? I notice that this linkage looks nothing like the other carbs I have seen with this change made on . . Also is removing the coast enricher also a god mod for this one? . . . with the required jetting of course. Any fuel screws to recommend for this application? It is TIGHT fitting . . . And Krannie . . . you seem intent on having me replace my needle jet emulsion tube. Why? What are the most likely things I will need to buy. (I hope it is not that "vacuum release valve that goes on the slide . . . . expensive) ANy gotchya's working on this carb. Looks like lots of expensive stuff to break!! Thanks for any advice ya'll may have.