Yanka

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About Yanka

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    District of Columbia
  1. Easy pull is a key here, I think. This is achieved by increasing travel of the lever. So if start point is the same as for original, the full disengagement will be closer to the bars (or never happen). Spacer could help here.
  2. When you tighten the cable so that the arm moves in the zone where it would no stay without cable (no free play), it is too much already. That means the clutch is partially disengaged all the time and under heavier loads will slip. As a consequence it will wear faster. How faster I can't tell. Perhaps you are fine with that, then just test it on the move in 5th gear with disengaging the clutch - throttle in - engage clutch. That's the most load you can easily put on it. If it slips after engaging even for a split second, is not good, but again, if you like it, you can use it, just know that it will wear faster. If I wanted the same as you I would look for adjustable levers leaving the free play on the cable. i.e. https://www.google.com/webhp?ion=1&espv=2&ie=UTF-8#tbm=shop&q=drz+400+adjustable+clutch+lever&* but idk which of them are good or not.
  3. If you mean me, then I will build it from scratch (when/if I get to it :D), so doesn't matter. If you mean the original author, I mentioned about compatibility, yes it would be much easier swap if it is just plug in
  4. So this is first time you try to fit LED turn signals (I mean before you had ones with light bulbs in)? In this case I would bet on turn signal relay. Actually I would guess LED signal would just stay consistently on, but perhaps it can be like this also. To check if those LEDs work, you can try to feed +12V to yellow wires (ground on black). If it works, then look for LED turn signal relay. I bought one for cheap recently, but haven't tried it yet as my DRZ is not used on street yet and LED turn signals still rest in box :). https://www.amazon.com/dp/B011BTMDQM there are more. Also idk if it is just plug out/plug in situation as I don't have he original at all (E model). Perhaps locate your relay and try to find one with similar pins.
  5. There should be negative also otherwise it will not work. Look for metallic parts, most likely there is a bolt or smth for attaching. If can't figure yourself, give link to ebay item or send pics
  6. My first ride (Moto Cove, VA) and now the top end is being under construction
  7. Perhaps, if properly charged, it can live another season. Personal preference if you want to risk it. And if the battery is really faulty here (which is very likely).
  8. Battery? 2 pretty easy ways to check 1) if you have a voltmeter, attach it to the battery terminals and try to start. On idle it should read more than 12V, when starting should not drop much below 10V 2) use jumper starter or cables from a car.
  9. If it's not below min then better buy/order more of the same oil. I would mix different oils only if there's urgent need for oil. Especially if it's freshly changed. Chances are that it will not go much lower than it is now.