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About Yanka

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    District of Columbia
  1. I have that thing much more distinctive when trying to accel from too low rpms (it happens when offroading). Don't like it but hope it will not brake my engine. Just trying to avoid such modes Usually by slipping clutch for a moment.
  2. 10V after charging disconnected from anything? It's dead! If charger is ok. How many V when charging? How many V on battery terminals when the dash dies from connecting the bulb? 11.5V when disconnected? Normally disconnected should show >12V, when charging, around 14V +/-, when turning engine with starter shouldn't drop much below 10V. If charging Voltage is too low it's probably charger/charging system fault, others for charged battery = battery fault.
  3. I started to hear smth like this from my rear brakes when changed brake pads to EBC Double-H on my street bike (VFR800). Was kinda concerned because I was riding on mountain roads then, but it does not affect performance, so I let it be.
  4. have you checked the air filter? my first thought was it is too rich.
  5. You know your bike probably. Is there anything you're worried about? If no then I would stick with it. Except if you can buy a modded one. That would be the most cost effective, because you can't usually sell modded bike for the price of unmodded + price of all the mods. Ofc if you can find one with mods you would have.
  6. I did smth like this, it worked for one day I did ride with this carb and seemed to be holding well. Don't see a point to make those holes, though. And it can be any form, just need to make sure the spring will press on it and it will hold the needle. Just find a piece of plastic that will not dissolve in gas And when it's hold in place with spring, needle shouldn't have any freeplay.
  7. 1) i'm not sure it's necessary, but it won't hurt. 2) usually a fuse is placed in a power to device wire so that when smth goes wrong, fuse will blow and cut the power to device. 3) u need fuse with more amps, so that it's blown only when something goes wrong. In 1.5A case I would put a 5A fuse.
  8. Thanks, man appreciate your help. Now I have smth to start with
  9. So it would be Main 160, Pilot 45, Pilot air 100, EMM or EMN needle? Is there a difference which needle with this setup? I don't mind to buy those jets, just want everything to work as it should :). Do I need to connect those CE ports in this setup? Thanks a lot for helping me out
  10. ports are plugged individually. It's a 2007 E model. Air box was opened originally, but the carb was Mikuni.
  11. Hi! I need some help, can't figure it out. I've got a slant style FCR carb from a DRZ400E 2001 and installed it on DRZ400E 2007 instead of Mikuni. Removed CE. Air box is opened as it is an E model, Exhaust is original. Now I have Main 142, Pilot 45, Pilot air 60, idk what needle. Probably the largest problem is in Main, as it starts on choke well, but doesn't like opened throttle at least on low RPMs (dies completely if remain fully opened in neutral or on the run). Rode it recently on some hill climbs, it runs surprisingly well, would not stall (but had to raise idle RPMs to idle) using just up to around 1/2 of the throttle, anyway want to fix it to be as it should. I tend to by individual jets from JetsRUs, but I've found several advices and can't really pick one. #One is: Main 160, Pilot 38, Pilot air 70, EMM needle. #Then there is Main 160, Pilot 45, Pilot air 100, EMM or EMN needle. I've seen also some different setups, but these two tend to prevail. I will run it mostly in MD, VA, up to around 1000ft.
  12. and I don't think it would be a good idea to run it to top of the tank. your mixture could be unstable probably depending on gas level in tank. unlikely the vapor in tank will be the ideal mixture of air/gas vacuum lines to carb should be connected to closed systems otherwise it will suck air and make mixture lean. from tank I can't predict what will happen. just plug it. btw, I want the same tank, but I can't justify the price when I already have a ~4 gal (I think IMS) tank Natural just looks ugly
  13. So find a timing hole and you will know if you are at TDC. Impossible to tell from your pictures. IF you are at TDC, timings are good then, arrow#1 on EX is parallel to the edge and between #2 on EX and #3 on IN are 15 pins. One tooth to either side will make it worse.
  14. I'm not familiar with non metric gauges, so was not sure, but also found .8 strange. Intake valves should be in 0.1-0.2mm range and Exhaust in 0.2-0.3mm. Timings are good if you still wondering and position should be TDC judging from the pic. But anyway check the TDC line if it's in the center of the hole.
  15. 10A with 12V would be about 120W, reaching approx this level fuse will blow.