Frankfurter

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About Frankfurter

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    British Columbia
  1. My lips are sealed
  2. Where did you buy them?
  3. I think you will have to loosen the throttle cables to spin it if you do it this way. When I jetted mine I removed the bolts from the subframe and spread it about an inch for a bit more working space. Also, if you remove the rectifier you can take the carb out easier by going down and out instead of straight out. Next time I mess with the jets or float bowl I am going to leave it place and spin it instead, but as was said above, the first time you have to drill the plug out and it's going to be way easier with the carb off the bike. Also, to get the stock float bowl screws out - use vice grips to loosen them first - which also require the carb be off the bike. That's a noob's take on it (I jetted mine about a month ago).
  4. Ok, I'll definitely check that out. I did have it die once because there was fine gravel jammed in the stand that kept it from traveling all the way up.
  5. I'm a noob mechanic too! How do I adjust the idle not using the cable?
  6. Hello carburation experts. I put a JD jet kit/3x3 mod in my 2017 S a couple months ago and everything has been great - except when I am working the bike over technical stuff, slipping the clutch and cutting the throttle when I pull the clutch in . For some reason I have not been able to determine, the bike stalls. It also stalls if I am idling with the clutch all the way in going downhill. It's worth noting, that under ordinary riding conditions (on the street) there are no issues - no stalling. The bike idles smoothly, the power at low rpms is strong and smooth and it runs smoothly all the way up to pinning the throttle (in every gear). I have adjusted the fuel screw in increments from lean to rich and this seems to make no difference. I have also adjusted the idle speed using the cable stop screw so the bike idles at a faster speed, but this also makes no difference. I'm a crap rider and riding over roots and rocks is hard as it is, but doubly so when the bike keeps dying every time I slip the clutch. Any thoughts you have would be much appreciated.
  7. I did not change the OEM relay. I removed the stock taillight and signal light assembly and replaced it with the DRC Edge tail light kit, the DRC 602 LED turn signals and the DRC resistor wires for the LED signal lights. My question about whether or not the issue is an indicator that the electrical system is under stress because of the heated gear is settled - thanks!
  8. Ok, thanks. The gear is running straight from the battery, the lights are running from the stock wiring - I just disconnected the stock lights, snipped the connectors off and soldered them onto the tail light kit lights (with the inline resistors).
  9. I ride with heated gear - jacket liner and gloves. I recently put the Edge Taillight kit on the bike and I notice when the gear is plugged in the signal lights blink at about twice the normal speed. If I just plug in the jacket without the gloves (the weather is getting warmer finally!) I get a disco pattern - 2 regular speed blinks, 3 fast blinks. I'm assuming that all this is happening because of a voltage drop, or something similar, due to the draw from the gear and that's affecting the inline resistors I installed with the taillight kit. So my question is, by using the heated gear am I taxing the stator too heavily and will I eventually pay a price for this?
  10. Thanks for the input guys, I really appreciate it. I think what I'll do is run the bike until it's hot and then start to put the screw in and see what happens as I get past where I started. Hopefully I'll find the sweet spot then. I'll check back in with what I discover. I did notice a difference in the extended screw from the stock screw when I rejetted; the extended screw did not penetrate the carb as far as the stock screw when it was seated. Perhaps I should have backed both screws out until they were flush with the interior surface of the carb body and then noted the difference in the amount of rotation needed to do that.
  11. I thought that a hanging idle was a sign that it was too lean. So if it's hanging at 2.5 turns won't going to 1.5 make it worse? Or is my understanding on lean/rich flawed?
  12. Hey all. Rejetted with the JD kit and followed the guidelines in the kit. Put in the extended fuel screw and all is fine ... except at idle. The kit spec'd 2.5 turns out but the left the bike hanging on idle a bit. It would eventually drop down, or I could bring it down by slipping the clutch a bit and it would settle nicely. So I started adjusting the fuel screw out in small increments and I'm almost at 3 turns out. It still hangs slightly but only for a few seconds. But now it stalls anytime I'm slipping the clutch and blipping the throttle at low rpms in the slow "technical" stuff. (Technical for me cuz I'm a noob). I tried setting the idle higher using the idle adjust on the throttle, but it still stalls out. No problem restarting, in fact since the rejet it starts almost without turning over. No other running issues that I can detect. It's a new bike - 2017 S. It has the 25 pilot jet, third clip, 155 and the 3X3 mod. I'm basically at sea level (Vancouver, BC) although now that the snow has gone there will be some elevation in my near future. Any advice would be appreciated.
  13. While I have some mechanical inclination, I have no experience (or didn't until a couple months ago) working on motorcycles. I rejetted the carb myself with no problem. The tools required are very basic. The most valuable part of the experience is gaining an understanding of how the bike works. If something isn't working right you're already ahead of the game for solving the problem. Check out this video - it's concise.
  14. I put a mirror clamp and a 1" threaded Ram mount ball on it. After that you can pretty much attach anything with the appropriate Ram gear - phone or GPS holder, camera ... third mirror so you can watch yourself ride if you want to ...
  15. Apparently I care.