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About Frankfurter

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    TT Member

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    British Columbia
  1. I did not change the OEM relay. I removed the stock taillight and signal light assembly and replaced it with the DRC Edge tail light kit, the DRC 602 LED turn signals and the DRC resistor wires for the LED signal lights. My question about whether or not the issue is an indicator that the electrical system is under stress because of the heated gear is settled - thanks!
  2. Ok, thanks. The gear is running straight from the battery, the lights are running from the stock wiring - I just disconnected the stock lights, snipped the connectors off and soldered them onto the tail light kit lights (with the inline resistors).
  3. I ride with heated gear - jacket liner and gloves. I recently put the Edge Taillight kit on the bike and I notice when the gear is plugged in the signal lights blink at about twice the normal speed. If I just plug in the jacket without the gloves (the weather is getting warmer finally!) I get a disco pattern - 2 regular speed blinks, 3 fast blinks. I'm assuming that all this is happening because of a voltage drop, or something similar, due to the draw from the gear and that's affecting the inline resistors I installed with the taillight kit. So my question is, by using the heated gear am I taxing the stator too heavily and will I eventually pay a price for this?
  4. Thanks for the input guys, I really appreciate it. I think what I'll do is run the bike until it's hot and then start to put the screw in and see what happens as I get past where I started. Hopefully I'll find the sweet spot then. I'll check back in with what I discover. I did notice a difference in the extended screw from the stock screw when I rejetted; the extended screw did not penetrate the carb as far as the stock screw when it was seated. Perhaps I should have backed both screws out until they were flush with the interior surface of the carb body and then noted the difference in the amount of rotation needed to do that.
  5. I thought that a hanging idle was a sign that it was too lean. So if it's hanging at 2.5 turns won't going to 1.5 make it worse? Or is my understanding on lean/rich flawed?
  6. Hey all. Rejetted with the JD kit and followed the guidelines in the kit. Put in the extended fuel screw and all is fine ... except at idle. The kit spec'd 2.5 turns out but the left the bike hanging on idle a bit. It would eventually drop down, or I could bring it down by slipping the clutch a bit and it would settle nicely. So I started adjusting the fuel screw out in small increments and I'm almost at 3 turns out. It still hangs slightly but only for a few seconds. But now it stalls anytime I'm slipping the clutch and blipping the throttle at low rpms in the slow "technical" stuff. (Technical for me cuz I'm a noob). I tried setting the idle higher using the idle adjust on the throttle, but it still stalls out. No problem restarting, in fact since the rejet it starts almost without turning over. No other running issues that I can detect. It's a new bike - 2017 S. It has the 25 pilot jet, third clip, 155 and the 3X3 mod. I'm basically at sea level (Vancouver, BC) although now that the snow has gone there will be some elevation in my near future. Any advice would be appreciated.
  7. While I have some mechanical inclination, I have no experience (or didn't until a couple months ago) working on motorcycles. I rejetted the carb myself with no problem. The tools required are very basic. The most valuable part of the experience is gaining an understanding of how the bike works. If something isn't working right you're already ahead of the game for solving the problem. Check out this video - it's concise.
  8. I put a mirror clamp and a 1" threaded Ram mount ball on it. After that you can pretty much attach anything with the appropriate Ram gear - phone or GPS holder, camera ... third mirror so you can watch yourself ride if you want to ...
  9. Apparently I care.
  10. Just thought I would share for other noobs with tools like me. 2017 DRZ400s I replaced my stock clutch with a RSM clutch and so needed to defeat the clutch lever safety switch. I looked on the forums first and thought I was in for a bit of wire harness surgery, but when I got into it a bit of tin foil solved the issue. No cutting or splicing. All the stock parts are reusable. After removing the head light shroud (three screws - one underneath, one on each side in front of the signal light) I disconnected the switch from the stock cable - just to make it easier to pull loose from the wire harness around the headlight. There's a hook tab under the switch assembly, just press it in with a small screwdriver and pull the switch out (see image). Follow the wire back to the wire harness and unplug it. To close the connection I stuffed tin foil in between the prongs in the connector (see image). Some tape over the end and ... Done. If you see a pitfall here please let me know!
  11. So, I gave up in the end. I tried everything and invested way too many hours trying to get it seated. I took it to the dealer where I bought the tire and they seated it - said it was extremely difficult and took about 80 psi !! They also added a pile of weight to balance it ... Thanks to everyone for the feedback.
  12. Lol ... ok. I did put it at 50psi and walked away. I'll see in the morning. If it's still stuck I'll try ... Astroglide! I'll just have to tell the cashier at the drug store that my rubber is stuck.
  13. Ok, thanks all. It sounds like this problem isn't uncommon - I thought perhaps I had done something drastically wrong - so I'll just keep working at it. Here I was thinking I'll pop off the Trailwings and get the new tires on in the morning and find some fun in the afternoon ... but, foiled!
  14. Just putting on Kenda 270's. I can't get the front to seat. I have inflated to 50 psi, deflated, spooned the bead up, and reinflated too many times to keep track of now. Any hints? I have done a million or so bicycle tires in my life, but this is my first time doing MC tires ... so be gentle! ;-)
  15. Sorry, I guess I missed including some info there .... 2017 S, stock carb.