AceDub13

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About AceDub13

  • Rank
    TT Member

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Michigan
  • Interests
    BRAAAAP!!
  1. I'm 5'10 and I can touch both feet down on my YZ, not flat but I can touch and balance. I've got a buddy that's like 5'2" and he rode my YZ for a day and just had to lean on one side to touch down, so you'd probably be fine. I started out on an 02 YZ250 and it wasn't too much. That being said, I always had a mentality of respecting the bike and the power it has and IMO if you do that you'll be fine. You can get in trouble quickly if you're being cocky or not careful. I'm not an advanced rider or anything but once you get comfortable the YZ is pretty easy to get the front tire up. After my first season I picked up an 09 WR450f and that is a great bike too, two completely different power deliveries but they both are very fun bikes.
    Installed the 3.6 gal on my 09 WR450f. Didn't have any leaking, clearance, or fitment issues-tank and shrouds lined right up and went on easy. Only problem was using the factory fuel line going to the carb I had to flip the petcock around backwards because the nozzle comes out of the left side so it doesn't reach. I can still use it just fine so it isn't a big deal, if it was an issue there's options to either get a longer piece of hose to reach, or get an aftermarket petcock with the nozzle coming out of the right side.
  2. Lol I realize that's not what you're asking, just thought I'd throw it in since you did say something about it-my bad! That's why I added the link to an original Clarke gas cap though... Only ones I know of that fit are the Clarke specific ones and Tusk makes a billet one specifically for Clarke tanks. There may be other aftermarket ones but those are the only I know of.
  3. https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p/923/824/Clarke-Replacement-Gas-Cap Even brand new they don't come with a petcock but are set up to use the stock one. I bought a new one for my WR450 and the stock petcock worked but I had to flip it around backwards to use the stock fuel line going to the carb which didn't bother me.
  4. I run the Tusk enduro light kit. They sell the tail light and turn signals separate too if that's all you need.
    First of all, I absolutely love this clutch perch/lever. They have 3 lengths-shorty, full length, and XL, each with the option of delrin bushings or ball bearings. The ball bearings will be the more expensive of the two. For the shorty lever, the bushing model was $105 and the bearing model $115 and I went with the bearing model. IMO there was a significant change in how easy the lever pulls as opposed to the factory setup, and it makes it easy to train yourself to use one or two fingers to pull. The lever works great, looks great(several color options), the quality is great, and was well worth the price. Also they carry a lifetime warranty so that's a plus. Only complaint I had was the hefty shipping cost, I think it was like $25 which I wasn't too happy about but after I got it and installed it, I think it's still worth the shipping charge. Also there's no mounting for the hotstart, that didn't bother me though as I've never needed it.
  5. 1 review

    Replacement Clutch Perch and Lever
  6. http://www.procircuit.com/jettingspecs3.htm Good place to start being it has a pro circuit pipe. Their recommendations are with 32:1 ratio 0-1500 altitude and 70-85 degrees.
  7. Yeah right now my idle is about 2250 +/- at 1.5 turns out. Manual says 1750-1950 so I'm hoping I can get that 1850 with just adjusting the screw and not changing pilot size. That's good to hear, it sounds like I'm just worrying lol but this bike is my baby so I have to. I appreciate your input!
  8. I bought a 2009 WR450f last year and rode it a lot, and over the winter months have been going through a lot of things/giving it a makeover. I haven't had the chance to really ride it yet since there's still plenty of snow on the ground. It had the free mods already done, and a FMF Powercore 4 silencer when I got it. I installed a powerbomb header over winter. Among the other things I did was a JD Jet kit, which recommends red needle-clip position 4, 168 main, and 48 pilot for my elevation and temp (0-3000 ft, 60-80 degrees I believe was the JD range). Stock is 162 main, and 45 pilot. The part that has me a little worried is I took out a 175 main and 50 pilot, the needle and clip were the same. I read that with the free mods it can be pretty harmful if the jetting is too lean, and it looked like what I took out is what was included in the GYTR kit (not sure if they give recommendations or that's just what the previous owner decided to run). So I guess my question is should I be worried about switching that 175 main to a 168? I know I need to adjust the fuel screw because my RPM at idle is higher than spec, not sure if I'll need to change pilot jet size but I'll test when it get's warmer and the snow melts. I'll also do a plug chop to see for sure if the main needs to be changed, but I was hoping someone could shed some light on if it might cause harm or I'll be okay to run it and check the plug. The carb is such a pain to get to so I'm hoping I don't have to pull it back out.
  9. Nice project, wish I had the equipment to do that lol. +1 on the Yamaha tuning fork logo on the cover
  10. Michigan

    Frederic - 15 mins north of Grayling
  11. I used sicass racing's on my 09, simple to install and not very expensive. Mounted the same location as msowsun, and wired it to the start button which was simple too.
  12. Good info, thanks fellas!