MotoTribology

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About MotoTribology

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    Male
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    New Jersey
  • Interests
    Riding, spectating and lubricants.

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  1. Just FYI, all brake fluid is synthetic (unless it is an extremely outdated mineral oil, but that is a different beast entirely). All DOT 3, DOT 4, and DOT 5.1 fluids are glycol or borate ester based fluids; DOT 5 is silicone based. All types are synthetic though. DOT 5 is the only one to really "watch out for". DOT 5 isn't compatible with the majority of systems whereas DOT 3, DOT 4, and DOT 5.1 fluids are all compatible with one another.
  2. I'm curious how they are quantifying water using an FT-IR, especially when the crackle comes up negative meaning less than 500 ppm water. Also I don't see anything about the presence of or lack of fuel in the samples. Am I missing it or are they not testing for fuel dilution?
  3. The synthetic will be fine for the clutch. Those myths are persistent, but well formulated synthetics do not cause clutch slip. However, if you are changing it every 2-3 hours there is no benefit from a synthetic unless you are constantly riding in extreme heat. For normal ambient conditions, a good conventional product will be more than adequate for 2-3 hour drain intervals.
  4. Just out of curiosity, what oil are you using in the transmission?
  5. Yeesh, lighten up bud . I'd say the invention of Velcro alone was worth all that NASA spending anyway.
  6. It is weird because the units displayed are implied to be mm, but the numbers actually correspond to cm. It is obvious what they actually represent to most people, but if the numbers listed correspond to cm, it should say "cm" where it instead says "mm". Fractions of the unit can be displayed through the minor ticks, but if the numbers are indicating cm, then it should say "cm".
  7. You know, I've had that exact same ruler for years and I've never noticed the error before. Since I know the proper distances, I guess my eyes just corrected it automatically.
  8. The viscosity for one. The Thumper Gear Saver is an 80W-85 and the regular Gear Saver comes in 80W or 75W. So the "Thumper" product is a thicker oil.
  9. Just FYI, Bel-Ray does not manufacture Honda's Hp Transmission oil. As far as I know, Idemitsu is still the manufacturer: http://products.petrochoice.com/system/documents/2738/1/Pro_Honda_HP_Trans_Oil_SAE.pdf?1439315289 So the Honda HP and Bel-Ray products aren't the same.
  10. Mineral, semi-synthetic, or synthetic are all fine. The difference will be in the change interval. If you run a short change interval regardless of the oil choice, you're better off not spending the extra money on full synthetics. You can't go wrong if the oil meets JASO MA or MA2 clutch standards and at least API SL. Some people prefer to stick to the older API SG spec'd oils, but the SL and higher specs are so commonplace now there's no reason to avoid them since they are better and the price differences are nil for the most part.
  11. Like @OLHILLBILLY said, most are good to go nowadays. Some are better than others, but they'll all get you where you need to be within reason. I would just add the stipulation to look for ones that meet JASO or ISO specifications and you'll have some assurance it is good.
  12. I look forward to part 2. It really seems like there is way too much subjectivity in how punishments are dealt out.
  13. a. Yes, because I feel that my own articles provide the best insight to my analysis on the subject. I wish there was another reliable source for the information that I write about, but sadly there isn't any that I know of which is why I was compelled to start doing it myself. b. You are telling me that you need references to believe that oil is made from several different chemicals and not a single type of molecule that is uniformly sized regardless of whether it is synthetic or mineral? Here you go: http://oil-additives.evonik.com/sites/lists/RE/DocumentsOA/Component-performance-in-engine-oil-formulation-EN.pdf http://www.palmerholland.com/News/file.axd?file=/2015/Documents/Synthetics Lubricant Basestock Brochure.pdf http://machinerylubrication.com/Read/28819/engine-lubrication Several well established companies/publications to re-enforce that engine oils are made of a mix of many different base oils and additives. If you'd like, I could surely find references to prove that different chemicals have different molecular sizes, but I don't think that will be necessary. c. I've stated my qualifications in many places. I don't feel the need to post them in every single thread whenever I try to give someone advice.
  14. What that Napa page is describing is group III base oils which are not truly synthetic. GTL and crude refined group III oils have fantastic performance and are very much on par with synthetic PAOs in many performance categories. They do go through some pretty severe refining too, so the argument that they are synthetic because of the amount of chemical changes made to them is certainly valid, and they are legally considered synthetic. However many formulators do not consider them synthetic and reserve that label for group IV PAOs and group V esters. Group IV and V synthetics will use by-products from crude oils as reactants when manufactured, but they are not refined from crude oil or natural gas directly. Here is my article on the subject: http://www.mototribology.com/articles/true-synthetic-or-fake-synthetic/ Here is another one about the molecular sizes: http://www.mototribology.com/spec-checker-and-a-synthetic-misconception/ Part 1 of that post can be ignored since it was just a plug for another part of the site when it first came out, but part 2 is about the molecular size misconception you mentioned. I can only present you with facts and my interpretation of them. I choose to interpret them from the most logical stance I can muster. What you choose to do with them from that point on is up to you.