GoneDirtBikeN

Members
  • Content count

    406
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

316 Excellent

About GoneDirtBikeN

  • Rank
    TT Bronze Member

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    California
  • Interests
    Wakeboarding, dirt bikes (MX Track), skiing, snowboarding, backpacking, camping, motorcycles.

Recent Profile Visitors

330 profile views
  1. I like the solution posted by Fraser above. I did not know that existed. I did take the stock protector/guard and moved it to the new header pipe and have not had the issue of melting pants.
  2. 450 - the vet bike of choice... I took out my 250 yesterday after having ridden my new 450 for the two months. Although I sound more impressive on the 250, the 450 makes things so much easier.
  3. If it is not countersunk - vice grips. If countersunk: I too have managed to remove one taping in a torx. Is it frozen in place? If so, then this will most likely result in stripping it more. If the head of the bolt is somewhat exposed but not enough to grab with vice grips, I've managed to cut a slot using a dremel and a cut-off-wheel and then use a flat blade screw driver. Again if frozen in place it will most likely just become worse. That's when you drill it (carefully) and use an easy-out.
  4. Same here. And it was the only beer my father-in-law drank. I always had to bring my own.
  5. The one I'm referring to is right at the beginning of this video. At 4:09 you can hear me slipping the clutch more. https://youtu.be/4g077JJoOG0
  6. The turn doesn't have a decent berm to hook up into? That would be the easiest and safest to start with.
  7. This time I used the method in the video of putting valve stem through the hole and keeping it in place with the nut. Got it done in 17 minutes. I can live with that!
  8. The old layout of my favorite track had a corner and jump just as you described right down to the height and length of the table top. I'm relatively new at this and on a 4T so for what it is worth: At first I was happy to just land on top of this jump and then continue on. But it lead into an up hill with a step up and so I needed to carry more speed to properly clear that one as well. It became clear that if I wanted to continue progressing I was needing to clear this one properly. For me it was a matter of carrying a bit more speed through the turn, leading to a better exit (more acceleration coming out) and also better at slipping the clutch (the fastest easiest shift is the one that doesn't happen). As I got better at that that corner-jump, I realized I was controlling slipping clutch (not letting it out so abrupt) and throttle (keeping the RPMs up) better and going over that jump so nice. In fact, got to the point I had to be careful not to overshoot it. Although I don't know the slightest thing about riding a 2T other than what I read on TT, I too am surprised you need to use 1st gear. I only use 1st gear going through the parking lot 3MPH zone - LoL.
  9. Hitting 30 and want to race? Have you looked into the Over The Hill Gang (OTHG)? It is my understanding that you can race in OTHG "in the year you turn 30". http://www.bayothg.com/index.php http://www.bayothg.com/index.php?pageid=chapters (other chapters besides Bay)
  10. Actually all the people I met from Oregon that week were nice. Understand that I'm comparing them to the norm for people here in the SF Bay Area - not hard to be an improvement over that! LoL
  11. OK. Another story. I decided I was going to have a little MX mini-vacation over the Christmas holidays. Out of 13 days, I managed to ride 10 days - not bad considering the rains this year here in NorCal. So one day at a sand track, a group people from Oregon (a couple families) was parked next to me. The older of the group finds out I'm in the Over the Hill Gang and we have a pretty good conversation. I was still on the 250 at the time but told him I keep thinking I needed more grunt. I was thinking about big bore for the 250, but a guy who builds race engines that I chat with at my local track said no, just get a 450 it will be more reliable. So the guy from Oregon is riding a new KTM 350. He said his family talked him into it and "it just pisses me off, get a 450". In other words, everything became harder for him.
  12. I don't think its the weight. At the track I frequent the most, there is a pretty big guy, way bigger than you, but rides a 450 and hits everything just as much as anyone else. That being said... I'm fairly new at this (16 months of riding a dirt bike) but I ride a lot making up for lost time. Just switched from a 250 to a 450. On my 250 I had to be exiting the corners with speed, get on the throttle asap if I wanted to clear one of the up-hill step ups. Just for fun they have a table top between the uphill and the step-up. My issue is with out a doubt me. Being cautious, I'm not clearing (yet) the table top as its long and immediately after the corner. A ridding buddy says "grap a gear while in the air"; again a bit more skill than I have. Next time at the track with the 450 I was clearing the double-double that was giving me fits on the 250; best I could do prior on that one was case it. If I was really skillful would I be just as able to do everything on my 250 - yes. Is the 450 helping me compensate for some of my lacking of skills - yes. Is it cheating - I use to think of it that way, now I don't care. Is it holding me back is developing skills (this I would really care about) - nope, it gives me more confidence and anyone who rides a dirt bike knows that helps. Does the 450 wear me out faster - yep, the muscles in my face that control smiling hurt like hell every time I get off the 450. Me and a ridding buddy trade bikes occasionally. But now that I have a bike with a lot of HP, hits like a mo-fo from bottom to mid, and has plenty left at the top as well; and his has none of that = he only gets to ride mine for a couple laps before I wave him down to get mine back. Maybe swap bikes for a few laps with one of your riding buddies. I have no regrets moving to the 17 CRF450R. The 15 CRF250R is/was a really fun bike. I keep telling myself I need to take it out some time. It's the 450 that keeps ending up in the back of my pickup.
  13. Me too. Only my employer doesn't know about it.
  14. A lot of reading on the subject has already been posted. This should keep you busy - http://lmgtfy.com/?q=torque+wrench+site%3Athumpertalk.com I have a sears 3/8 10-80 FT LBS that covers a lot of the range needed to work on a dirt bike. Is "decent" with a 4% error. The only thing greater than 80 FT LBS is the rear axle and I do that by hand - not likely to strip that one unless King Kong is working on your bike. $40.00 - http://www.sears.com/craftsman-micro-clicker-torque-wrench-3-8inch-drive/p-00931424000P IMO,you need a 1/4 Torque wrench as well (at least I do) for the lower range in-lbs. Problem being that quality 1/4 Torque Wrenches are fairly expensive. To be honest, I use one Harbor Freight. But I check it against my craftsman one from time to time and it seems to be ok. When using this one I under-torque at least 10%. I also do not use the lower or upper end of this torque wrench figuring that is where it is the most inaccurate. On some of the very small bolts I do only by hand. My method is a decent amount of loctite 242 blue, screw in until bottoms. Then only tighten a few degrees extra, no more. These bolts are way under torqued but I have not lost one yet. Examples where I do this are - bolts holding on the plastic parts, seat bolts, bolts holding the oil filter cover in place. It's just way to easy to strip threads in aluminum/cast! Someday I'll get a decent 1/4 torque wrench. Always release all tension from the torque wrench each time you are finished with it.
  15. Oh, and seriously, anyone like our SX/MX announcers better than the MXGP announcer?