GoneDirtBikeN

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About GoneDirtBikeN

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    California
  • Interests
    Wakeboarding, dirt bikes (MX Track), skiing, snowboarding, backpacking, camping, motorcycles.

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  1. Last time I changed my rear tire I decided to clean the rim really good. Removed the rim strip, scrubbed off all the crap including the rubber marks... did the usual procedure of installing the tube/tire. Installed on bike. all done, went to close the garage door and looked down at the floor - there sat the rim strip. I think that was the fastest I changed a tire up until the do-over - LoL. Enough air in the tube so that it is well situated into the tire and not going deep with the spoons works for me. I've actually never have pinched a tube but then again I've only been at this for a year and a half. I don't even want to think about how many tires I've changed already. I don't see how baby powder would be the cause of tire slip on the rim. The baby powder should only be inside of the tire and on the tube. Small amount is all it takes. There should be none between the rim and the outside of the tire bead. The rim lock is pushing on a small section of tire causing pressure against the outside of the bead and the rim; again baby powder should not be in play. Last couple of times I use diluted dish soap as a lube. My tire has spun on the rim a minor amount last couple of times. I seem to remember no (or at least less) tire spin on the rim when I used Windex. I think I'm going back to Windex. Tire spin is easy to fix. Put bike on lift or stand with wheel of the ground. Let air out of tire. Use a spoon (or just squeezing with fingers which usually works for the front) to knock the bead off the rim on both sides. Spin wheel in the direction necessary to correct. Grab brake. Repeat until tire/tube/stem is in correct position. Re-seat tire and adjust air to proper amount.
  2. While for the most part I agree with you but Plessinger was also part of the problem. While he was standing on the other side of the track he was waving his arms (although in frustration) -it made it look like he was waving them towards the other side of the track where his bike was down on the ground. It was a minor miracle the situation did not a lot uglier than what it did. The only one who showed any signs of "presence of mind" was Nick Wey.
  3. The 2017 CRF450R/RX Service Manual finally showed up on tradebit.com. Yippee Ki Yea.
  4. Go to Rocky Mountain (or other parts site) and use the OEM part finder. Use either OEM parts or good aftermarket. For Bushings and o-rings I use OEM and for the seals I use SKF. You could just have some dirt lodged under the seals and cleaning that out may work. Given the age of the bike, chances are dirt is in the oil itself and the leaking will come back. The cleaner you keep the oil and keep up on the maintenance the longer the internals and surfaces of the tubes will last.
  5. Rebuilding forks (seals, bushings and o-rings) is pretty easy.
  6. I learnt from another mx'er at the track - even better is to make one out of a tear-off. The thinner the material you make it from the less oil you loose from the fork using it.
  7. RMATV has them: https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p/2710/23208/Pro-Moto-Billet-Spark-Arrestor-End-Cap
  8. Big difference between 2017 and the few years prior. I'll speak from the R (vs RX) cause that's what I have. 2017: Power: Bottom to mid power like nobody's business. Hit's like a "raped ape" on the bottom. Took me a bit to get use to it coming off a 2015 CRF250R and being a new rider but now I wouldn't do without it. A trails guy may not like that too much. My understanding is that the RX has different mappings so... The only time I hit the rev limiter is in the air when adjusting the pitch of the bike - LoL. Suspension: is a bit on the "softish" side, forks and shock. If your light (170ish lbs), seems like most guys think stock suspension is pretty darn good. I'm a bit heavier at 195 (need to drop 12 lbs to get back to where I was about 6 moths ago) so I bumped up a spring rate front and back - that fixed most my qualms about the suspension. To me it seems to blow through the top of the stroke too fast but then what should I be expecting when I case an MX jump. I increased the oil level in the forks to fix the bottoming issue I was having. It does take corners and take ruts nicely. My 250 had the SFF TACs - I don't miss having to constantly check three different air pressures but I do miss the adjustability. The local suspension tuners don't seem to have the this bike figured out yet; maybe the big shops do. I'm waiting until people get some experience with this suspension and then I may eventually have mine revalved. For now it is really not bad. SAG: This bike likes sag around 106-108. I ran around 100 on my 250. When I tried less than 106 on the 450 it was a nightmare. Don't raise the forks in the triple clamps either (OK I did but only 1mm or so which seems meaningless but it was enough to make a big difference in handling). Look at what racer-X "dialed in" or MXA says about the suspension settings and you will hear the same input. Starting: a little finicky when cold but when warm starts with 1st kick all the time. They made the starter standard on the R for 2018 and like you I want the kick starter. My understanding is that you can add it back. For those that want the E start, that is good news as it only added a couple hundred to the MSRP of the R but to add it afterwards on the 17 was far more expensive. The R is a bit easy to stall if you let the RPMs get low. Several articles recommended gearing down as a fix. I added a tooth to the rear sprocket and that fixed it for me. Clutch: I still don't have a handle on that yet. I just never seem to get it adjusted right. I'll call it dodgey. I think the throw just feels too long and resistance is too weak. One the write-ups says to replace the judder spring/plate with a regular clutch disk along with stiffer springs and I'm going to give that a try. Parts: still not a lot of aftermarket parts available for the bike. Even the OEM parts can have long waits (backordered). 2016: Power: A buddy of mine has a 2016. We trade bikes occasionally. Last time I rode his I felt like I had to short-shift it instantly. It's bottom end power is just OKish, has almost no mid. After two laps at the track I was waving him down because I wanted mine back. Suspension: It corner's and rides decently but it is sooooo harsh on big landings and sharp edges. Seems like the fixes from what I read and hear are revalve or completely different forks and shock. Value: now that the new model is out for 17 and let alone 18, it has/will de-value the prior years. For me, the 17 and newer would be worth the money. I'm surprised at the delta you are seeing between the R/RX. Seems like the only items that would change the cost is bigger gas tank, 18" rear wheel and kick starter. There are a couple threads in the Make/Model specific section on the R/RX. You should read through them.
  9. What people are trying to tell you but you are not listening to nor understanding: If you spend $500 on the bike, you will quickly need more than the $100-200 you set aside for parts (things are going to break fast and often on an old bike), the end result = you will have $0 and a bike you can't ride - this is not where you want to end up. People just don't want to see you broke and no bike.
  10. Lots of howTo videos about wheelies on youTube. Here's a couple https://youtu.be/i3ob0kEKk-4 https://youtu.be/_4Zr2Ykf8-4
  11. The instructions in the owner's manual for my 2017 CRF450R says to do so. I seem to get enough extra out to be of some significance. I don't feel a couple slow kicks is going to harm the internals.
  12. From a suspension tuning guide I use as a reference (http://dirtbikeresources.com/dirtbikeresources/Suspension/SuspensionTuningGuide) Oversteer: Means that a motorcycle turns too quickly. In this case, the bike may tends to turn too sharply (or dart to the inside) which can disrupt a smooth, controlled arc. · Forks spring rate too soft · Shock spring rate too stiff · Incorrect rear sag · Forks compression damping too fast (soft) · Forks rebound damping too slow (stiff) · Rear shock compression damping too slow (stiff) · Rear shock rebound damping too fast (soft) · Triple clamps position too low on forks The challenge is figure which one(s) is(are) the culprit.
  13. Because if they read for themselves and screw up, they have but themselves to blame. If they ask someone else for advise and then screw up, they can blame it on bad advise.
  14. A lot of times when sections get as you describe, a little higher up on the berm is a much smoother line. A little more speed, a little more lean, ride higher on the berm and you may find that to be the best/easiest line through such a section. I once had a person tell me " I though you were going to go off the track, then I realized what you were doing". LoL
  15. The local OHV parks are like this. I started there because it was in expensive ($5 per day) and I would go when not many people there. Once I felt more comfortable controlling the bike I ventured to a nearby privately run track and never went back to the OHV parks. Hardpack eats tires and hurts when you go down. Only a couple sand tracks near me and they are two hours drive from me. Funny, the two are side by side. I freaking love riding sand. They are well maintained as well. Yesterday at one of my local tracks: They ripped it deep, watered heavily before opening, watered three times between motos. Ruts were just amazing. Funny though as they get grief for watering so much by some riders who don't like it. In addition they do a lot to maintain the soil - not long ago they added rice hulls to brake up the clay. About a month ago I swear the track smelled like fertilizer but traction was incredible; It was worth the smell - LoL.