sbmon

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About sbmon

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    Georgia
  1. Excellent Thank you for the help. I will cap them off. Good to know about the air box too.
  2. I have a quick question about the vent lines on the FCR 39. In an on road only application (SM) would it be okay to either cap off one of the vents on each side of the carb or possibly just Y the two together on each side. Common sense tells me (I am very often wrong hence my asking ) this should be fine considering the vents are sharing one single port on each side so there should be no volume of flow concerns. If this is okay to do is capping one off on each side any better or worse than Y ing them together? Many thanks for input
  3. Just so I understand clearly this spring is effectively the same mod that can be achieved by a zip tie, o-ring, or safety wire? Also is it me or this $20 spring is the same many knife shops sell (usually $1.00) for spring assist mods.
  4. Now that the standard Rotella T is discontinued are folks just moving over to the Rotella T4? I was told that the change was due to new Govt mandates for diesel oils. Hoping govt mandates continue to serve MC clutches good. Side note pricing around my area on T4 is 25% higher than old standard T.
  5. My understanding is leave PAJ alone on current TT fcr39 kit and the AP o ring mod is something you will want to do. Some people just use safety wire instead of the O ring as it doesn't wear out and less inclined to fail overtime. I just installed mine a few weeks ago and strongly recommend you consider doing the work yourself. It's not very difficult, just take your time and read over the FAQ/tutorial here on TT.
  6. I have used blingy washers with and without those oem offset/recessed washers without issue. Using these washers alone will allow for more surface area to bight on the plastics. These washers do require new machine screws though. Here's some fleabay ones I have.
  7. Rode the bike about 100 miles, mostly straight roads. Did not get too much in the overflow. I only had to drain the 4 oz bottle at the end of the ride and there was only about 1 oz in the bottle. Next I will try out this setup in the curves. Provided the overflow doesn't leak a bunch more I will probably just leave the float alone. I don't mind checking the catch can at each fill up. I did order a some jets recently (162 and 167) as I currently have a 165 main and am not positive this is ideal. I have some idle minor idle rpm fluctuations (pretty minor nothing that is stalling the motor) that I might try to chase down too. While placing the order for the jets I ordered the little o ring that goes in the float valve, figured I would check that next time I pull the carb out. Overall I have to say the power increase with the FCR 39 is quite impressive, just as people described. Here's a pic of the catch can for now.
  8. Was visiting central FL during bike week so I brought my drz:) Here's a picture from Flagler beach.
  9. Rotella T 15w40 has worked for me very well on the drz and most all of my small engines. My understanding is that fairly recently standard Rotella T 15w40 has been discontinued and replaced with a T4 version. While the new T4 version does carry all of the past certifications of the older "T" oil, I have heard that the change was due to new Govt mandates required for diesel oils, I'm just hoping those mandates don't mean any sort of "friction modifiers". Time will tell I guess. On a side note Rotella prices have risen quite noticeably in my area since the change over to T4.
  10. Here's a quick pic. The screwdriver is pointing to it. Mine is plugged in picture as I run a raptor non vacuum fuel valve.
  11. You should be able to reach the nipple with some long needle nose pliers or pair of hemostats. I would cut two one inch long pieces of fuel tubing and stretch those over each side of the jaws on the tool you are using. This insulation will allow you to grab the fuel tubing with authority without fear of ripping or tearing the fuel line being installed.
  12. Sorry for another leaky carb thread but was hoping someone could help me out. I have just installed a new (purchased here from TT) FCR39 into my DRZ400SM. I took the bike out for a quick spin and the jetting feels pretty close (clutching up 3rd now, where before I couldn't). Unfortunately though I am having this issue where there is fuel coming from the overflow line connected to the bottom of the carb when ever I tilt the bike over. This does not happen when the bike is on the kickstand, the tilt has to be a little more like >30 degrees. I first noticed it when doing a kickstand turnaround. My setup is using the raptor (non vacuum petcock), so I have tried turning the fuel supply off and draining the bowl via the bowl drain screw and tapping the bowl in hopes that maybe the float is just hung up or something simple, and then turning the fuel back on. I tried this a few times but the problem is still there. Is the float getting stuck, or would this problem be indicative of the float height being way out of adjustment? If this is the float bowl needing adjustment can this be adjusted while the carb is on the bike? Just to be clear the bike/carb is not leaking when just parked on the kickstand, it is only leaking when tilted over more. Also the raptor petcock is new and I have confirmed that when in the off position the fuel is 100% not flowing at all. I understand that the nature of how the float and overflow works and that it should flow fuel to the overflow when the bike is tipped over but for fuel to flow when the bike is only laid over a little bit seems incorrect. Many Thanks for any and all help:)
  13. Ohio those graphics look awesome on that little tank! I have had a few sets made by dirtdigits.com While they will not be the cheapest the quality was amazing. The vinyl is extremely thick and the metallics look like they are painted in person. As far as install goes watch a bunch of youtubes and I strongly recommend a felt squeegee.
  14. Han Solo!
  15. What was the FCR from?