1gr8bldr

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About 1gr8bldr

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    North Carolina
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    Outdoorsman

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  1. I will be surprised if you can adjust that. This is an air cooled motor, so don't let it run stationary for very long, it needs to move to get air flowing. If stationary for long, you should use a fan. That's top end for sure, sounds like piston slap to me. Put pressure on everything like the heat shield, to see if it gets quiter, could be something loose. You can use a long screwdriver just like a stetoscope. Move the metal end around the engine, pressing firmly and listen on the other end for the source. You can isolate the noise area. Sound crazy but it works.
  2. I experimented with this yesterday. I had noticed it harsh on the front when setting down the front on wheelies, not that I ride long wheelies, but pulling it up for getting over stuff easier/smoother. I removed what was likely a tablespoon from each shock.... and maybe it's in my head, but I really thing it made it better. Surely this little amount could not be felt???
  3. Saw that one on CL. Bruce typically works on the shocks removed from the bike. Usually the shift issue is between 1st and second. If your climbing a hill and downshift it goes to neutral rather than 1st. Easy, cheap fix. But between 2nd and 3rd.... not sure about that. Agree the Honda better than the TTR. As far as the front end, Higher front makes it stable, steer harder. Lower makes it steer quicker but twitchy. But you have some good travel with that set up. Is the stock shock OEM? I'll bet it is upgraded as well. Which may have all the adjustments. Yes the idle screw/ knob is on the choke side. The choke butterfly is spring activated to close, under tension at all times. The lever pushed up for choke basically allows the spring to let it close under it's own spring tension. The blk choke lever having very small plastic detents that have three recess. It should not be a problem moving freely. Especially since riding mode, non choked is down. You should only need the choke briefly when cold. These guys here know these bikes so you came to the right place. Never heard of Jibtopia? Edit , I see where Jibtopia is . Way north. If your serious about the suspension and need help, FTI racing, on 85 in Thomasville, or is it Talyorsville, just south of Greensboro, can do anything. Specializes in suspension but also motor work. I met Cal this week. He has two bikes of ours revalving the suspension
  4. Saw that one on CL. Bruce typically works on the shocks removed from the bike. Usually the shift issue is between 1st and second. If your climbing a hill and downshift it goes to neutral rather than 1st. Easy, cheap fix. But between 2nd and 3rd.... not sure about that. Agree the Honda better than the TTR. As far as the front end, Higher front makes it stable, steer harder. Lower makes it steer quicker but twitchy. But you have some good travel with that set up. Is the stock shock OEM? I'll bet it is upgraded as well. Which may have all the adjustments. Yes the idle screw/ knob is on the choke side. The choke butterfly is spring activated to close, under tension at all times. The lever pushed up for choke basically allows the spring to let it close under it's own spring tension. The blk choke lever having very small plastic detents that have three recess. It should not be a problem moving freely. Especially since riding mode, non choked is down. You should only need the choke briefly when cold. These guys here know these bikes so you came to the right place. Never heard of Jibtopia?
  5. Check the 2 wire connections at the clutch perch . If they are not working/connected properly, it will think it is in gear and not do anything. Might even bypass the clutch perch by connecting these wires with a short jumper. I just cut and stripped mine and wire nutted together. Be advised that it will crank in gear if you do this . But it sounds like a lose wire in your case since it works sometime.
  6. Before I start on the OKO carbs, I wanted to get back to the baseline on my oval bored carb on my built 230, stroker crank, 254, outlaw exhaust, thin gasket, 1.0 cam. It tuned in by the AFR at 122/42 stock slide [no ufo]. I was surprised that both bikes, stock and built were asking for 42 pilots. But I will say that it was on the verge of asking for a 45 but likely would point more to the 42. I also should add that I am tuning under load, in gear, rather than "listening for best idle, up or down on pilot according to numbers of turns out from bottom on the fuel/air screw in neutral". In neutral, it reads about .5 higher/leaner than when in gear effortlessly pulling me, throttle in the pilot circuit range. So bear that in mind according to whether you think it should be tuned under load or not because in neutral, it would have pointed a little more towards the 45. But still would be 50/50 either way . I usually say that I can't feel a power difference, up or down 2 jet sizes.... but I think I could feel today, slightly more power when dialed in. Note that tuning with the AFR meter assumes the air screw be at mid point of 1 5/8 out from bottom. This allows an up or down fine tune for temps or elevation. I love this device. You may remember a post a year ago where I used timed runs while looking for the best main jet. Mercy, what a pain changing jets on a hot bike on a backroad. Took hours with unclear results. Going from 120, 122, 125, 128, 130, 132, 135, 138, to a 140. If only I had this device then. It takes less than 100 yards.
  7. I enjoy experimenting way to much to quit. Especially once I saw what the UFO did for the stock bike, so I know some way must exist to get there another route. LOL, I have a 26 OKO and 28 OKO carb to try both. If I can get anything to work well, I would then swap it to the PWK
  8. Originally when I took the detuned ufo out, I forgot to remove the 35 pilot. The numbers on the AFR were reading 15 to 16 on the lower throttle and 13 on the main. I still did not realize I had not changed the pilot back to the 42. But I knew it was lean without looking. It had a slight kackling on decel. When I started asking myself how did the pilot get partially blocked during the change, did I lay the carb down, etc, I then remembered. Anytime you hear that kackling, it's dangerous lean
  9. Wonder what the elevation is for Charlotte NC??? Temp was about 60 yesterday evening. Air screw 1 3/4 out. I can't recall, but the good needle, the one everyone talks about. Forth slot from Top. Numbers through the entire throttle range were 12.2 sometimes 13. I usually shoot for 12.8 to 13.4. But it runs good. You can not tell the difference in feel. The baffle does lean it about .5, but not worth the trouble of putting it back.
  10. No apology needed. Just campfire talk without the campfire. Hmmm, I do enjoy a good conversation over a campfire, Brats, steak, wings, shrimp, tenderloin... all cooking, wondering which I'm going to try next. Glad Turkey hunting season is about here. Hmmm, reminds me, we are out of firewood
  11. KTM Freeride. I will increase dampning on the rebound today. See if that does help. It could be a compression deflecting??? Is a Log crossing considered hi or low speed compression?
  12. I have removed the shock to adjust and I have pivoted the sub frame up. Both equally a pain. Makes experimenting something you had rather not do EDIT, the High speed comp dampning can not be accessed. The low speed comp has a small whole specific for a small flat head to access it. The Rebound easy on the bottom
  13. Adjustments are to hard for experimenting so I want to limit my having to remove the shock. My other bike I can hit a 12 inch log at 25mph with a simple wheelie and glide smoothly through. My new bike bucks like a horse. The rear bucks straight up even at 5 mph. Would that be too much rebound? [Upper adjustments are not accessible]
  14. Bike is rear bucking when wheeleing over a log. What to start turning???
  15. No more experiments with the stock bike. I put a standard slide back in. Tuned the jets with the AFR meter, 120/42 showing slightly rich, ever so slightly. The baffle back in would give it the .5 it needs. Fixed everything that needed fixing and sold it. To many spares, spring cleaning. Still have the built 230.