1gr8bldr

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About 1gr8bldr

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    North Carolina
  • Interests
    Outdoorsman

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  1. LOL, I will not know if your right or wrong. I am trying to determine if or what percent the gearing would become longer by switching front sprockets from a 12 to a 13. I know it will move everything higher, but I think, mathmathicly speaking, that it will make the gears seemingly longer, to a small percent, maybe 5%, I don't know, but there should be a way to calculate it
  2. I have one. Way to much trouble and you still need to double check it with a clear tube
  3. Or, I just remembered I have a clear bowl still in the package
  4. Hey friend, do you have your comments turned off on Youtube on purpose? Just wondering if you knew. I saw your CAW video, then your other vids, then recognized your trials practice and then saw here that you are from SC. Somehow I have not seen some of the trails you rode??? Must have been blocked off my few times there
  5. Last time I googled it, I found several sources, of which said 11"s. This is the highest I have seen. This site shows what else can be done. But all that software, computer readout, etc, a waste of time, thought and money. It's way to simple to complicate it like that. No need for any of that. That would be like using a computer software to map out and record how to count to three.
  6. LOL, just to easy, but I once set my 230 carb per the book, only to double check per the clear hose.... and it was off. So I have never used the measure tool again. Plus, everytime I remove the bowl, it's a pain with that overflow pipe. I am always afraid I have bent something. I rarely get that perfect tilt, sometimes when right, it will fall off, but most times I am trying to find the perfect tilt. I started to take a pic today when I found it, but my phone was out of reach.
  7. I hate that the PWK does not have a float bowl drain screw. Only the big nut for a drain. It makes it impossible to do the clear tube method of setting the float height. Someone could sell many of these if they would buy a handfull of the big bowl nuts and tap a fitting into it to accept a hose. No need for a shut off screw. It could be removed after the test. Who wants the job?
  8. I assumed rich was also a culprit, maybe not? I was playing with ufo's, homemade, getting so much more power but I could not overcome that rich idle that ufo's create. I did eventually by cutting the slide but then I would get a lean bog at the fast crack of the throttle. I assumed my first sensor went bad because of the rich idle I was inflicting on it.
  9. I can dial in a 4t perfect within an hour, assuming it does not need a different needle taper, so it's not much trouble. LOL much better than the timed runs I used to do to find the best main. But the 2T, I don't know. This bike is known to have hanging rpm's, lean run away and stuttering. So if it were not for trying to figure this out, I would just rough tune and ride. LOL, my riding skills are more in need than my wrenching skills. But if I eliminate all three issues with the sensor, without having to buy 3 sensors, I will be happy.... and have learned something
  10. Just in from changing out jets. LOL, soaking wet. I had to warm up the bike in the rain. Originally the bike had 122/42new . I changed to 125/42 to help with the hanging rpm's. That gave the lean readings of 14 to 16 on the idle and main. I changed to 128/45 and moved everything to good numbers... if it were a 4t, 12.8 to high 13's, the main being closer than the idle circuit. I adjusted the air screw to bring the numbers down even more but it would hardly run as if it were on choke. But strong, crisp, where it is now. I will play with it more to verify, just not in the rain. I hate that these carbs don't have a bowl drain screw. Float height is not that critical and I use the clear tube method with other carbs. It can be jetted to run perfect hi or low but when comparing others jetting to your own there has to be a standard baseline otherwise it's a moving goal post. My bike was running so good, I feel stupid changing things, but if it were really 14 to 16, that's to lean. Motor life would be cut way down..... yet my temps were always low and fan seldom came on?????
  11. Yea, I have heard. This is my second one already. I heard that being rich is tough on them.?
  12. Interesting today, I installed an air/fuel meter on my bike to verify tuning of the carb. On decel it actually dropped on average one full number. Not what I expected
  13. I just finished putting the pipe back on. I welded a bung about 21 inches from the head. Where I thought I was rich, it is showing lean, especially for a 2t. I have done this many times with a 4t but this is my first 2t. Hearing that others have said it will not work on a 2T, LOL, I have to prove it to myself. I never could find anywhere on the net as to where my AFR numbers should be that seemed to come from experience. I shoot for 12.8 to 13.2 throughout the entire throttle range with a 4T. I have seen that a 2t needs lower, 11.5 was the average of what I found. But on my 2T today, I was getting 14 on the low side and 16 on the high side. To lean even for a 4T. But I was so confident that I was rich. I run richer jets than most all of this model owners. My temps stay extremely low, fan not coming on often. My piston wash looks good. I have not done a plug chop. The AFR numbers were consistent with what I was doing with the throttle. Predictable, stable. So I feel like I was getting a usable reading inspite of others saying it will not work. So I wonder, does the fuel/air meter need to be recalculated for a 2T.? Is it possible that it is this lean? Or is it reading leaner than it is, the reason others say it will not work? Input wanted
  14. I am trying to decide if I agree with the "lean runaway" diagnosis. They claim that the bike running out of fuel will lean out and cause a lean run away. I don't believe this to be possible. Before I ever heard of such, I had determined that it was running off of residual oil in the crank case, that is expected to be there, as a diesel would. Here is my post from another forum before I ever heard of "lean runaway". I referred to it is WOT sticking. "My slide spring is much stiffer than stock, so what ever it is that triggers the wot should be the subject of investigation. But for sure, without air, this high rpm is not possible, so we know that the slide is up and being lifted. But what triggers it???? I only have my riding of the time before it happened. If I knew others it would help so much. It is a mere guess at this point. Anyone who would give description of their riding 5 minutes before the WOT stick would be appreciated. But I will guess. I was riding ultra slow, like a trials rider for 30 minutes before my WOT stick. Mostly trying to stall the bike on extremely low rpm's on a hill. Working on my clutch skills, etc. Rpm's never met 1/2 throttle or close. 1st gear 80% of the time. I think I was getting a build up of unburned oil in my case. The fuel burns leaving the oil suspended. What I would like to do is start studying how much oil puddle is remaining in my crank case after different throttle ranges, maintained for 20 minutes. up to 1/4 throttle. 1/4 to 1/2 and 1/2 to wot. At 80:1 at mid main, I don't expect much puddle. It burns it almost instant. 1/4 to 1/2 likely perfect for 80;1. But under 1/4 throttle, I am expecting that oil is building up, in need of being "cleaned out". As oil remains, it begins to dam up/restrict fuel sent from the carb, through the crank case, working expondential to block clean fuel. Almost like flooding the case. During this time, your engine should have a degree of engine braking. At this time is when you run the potential of the surprise reverse, running backwards, because resistance is on the crank to reach TDC. Now, just as I did, After awhile, I wanted to rip off into the sunset. 200 yards into the wot run, I have now heated up the piston enough to turn my 2t into a diesel engine. Or it could simply be the trigger to start the lift of the slide that is fired by the plug? This is why the kill button will not kill it when it sticks. As soon as it burns out the excess from the flooded crank, it should go back to normal. I have heard trials riders use the term, "clean it out". Now I know what they mean. So, this could be way off, could be close, but should be a good starting place for discussion. It's worded like it is fact, but it is actually me speculating, thinking out loud, trying to see if it adds up or not. It may be enough for someone else to figure it out. But we have to figure it out" As I later studied the topic I see it is called "lean runaway". I can see how the bike can increase idle for a moment when the fuel starts running out, creating a leaner burn, most 2t being tuned rich. But the WOT stick last for much more than a moment. It is clearly diseling. I can see how a vacuum leak can do the same but many of the post on the net found nothing wrong after the incident. My bike after the incident was ran another 20 minutes to make sure all was OK. I don't understand how a cold motor does it since it does not have continuity with my theory. Several post on the net is regarding a cold motor on start up. What I suspect now after much study is that a "trigger" happens to start the diseling. The fuel either the crank residual pool oil, or fuel being vacuumed out of the carb due to a lifted slide from vacuum, it has to have air, lots of it for near WOT with either crank oil or carb fuel. But the "trigger" that starts it is what I wonder most. We know that the kill will not kill it so the combustion chamber, either plug, piston or other is acting as a glow plug . Again, running out of fuel would be a split second of lean, not 45 seconds or more of shear terror thinking it is going to blow. If it does happen to you the best reaction is to gear up, brake hard and dump the clutch to stall. If yours is a case leak, you can simple hold the kill switch and throttle open to pull in more fuel to change the lean condition because your not likely full blown WOT due to highly restricted air. Again, I am talking as if this is fact but it is all speculation on my part, thinking out loud, looking for contradictions, prodding others to thought, hoping for continuity. So, several questions, is it fuel from the carb or residual oil from the crank that is burning? This could be answered if we knew how long the lean runaway would last? Many said they killed it by pulling the plug wire. Not so, they only thought this fixed it. I think it ran out of useable oil???? We know when it happens that hitting the kill button will not stop it and this is the same as pulling the plug wire. Fuel from the carb would go on and on. Unless you were one of the crowd that says theirs triggered from running out of fuel. Yet I have and many others run out of 2t fuel many times without this triggering and when mine happened I was low on fuel but still have plenty after another 20 minutes of riding???? Some say trash in the carb can do the same. I have a hard time with this because a partial blockage will lean up the mix as if it were a small jet, but then it should stay this way until the carb was taken down and cleaned. Not it did it, now I finish my ride. Next specific question.... what then is the trigger. Something is the trigger to start the diesel situation. This assumes a hot something acting as a glow plug... or does it? If you search the net, all sorts of answers exist as to why it has the so called lean runaway. But nothing so far sounds conclusive. Although the running out of gas does give a "trigger" for the theory where no other theory offers a trigger. So, I am rambling, thinking out loud. Someone more experienced than me with real experience, rather than me speculating, can take this over from here. I will link an interesting chart about oil migration dwell times that might apply https://www.maximausa.com/pdf/Oil Migration Sheet.pdf
  15. Next thread topic, why do you love your 230