2PLY

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    curt789

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    Observed Trials, Skiing, Scuba Diving Aviation and Sports Videography
  1. Stork1983, The majority of tips I'm seeing here for you are Race Related. Is that what you are interested in? If you are riding the dirt for fun and recreation then Old Plonker had one of the best tips: "Get Paul Clipper's The Art of Trailriding (Amazon Kindle format only)." or some similar reading. Carl Shipman wrote a couple books a long time ago that really helped me and now that I've looked through them again for fun, I found that the tips were still very accurate even for today's riding. One of the books was "Observed Trials" and the other more universal one was "The Boonie Book". I bought those way back in 1974 so I'm sure they are hard to find. Avoid hanging your foot out in the turns. That's a technique used in Moto-Cross when they lay the bike over so far that they can't keep it on the peg and still counter-weight for a radical turn. It's also used to move weight to the front tire to help it bite for the same radical turn, but that's RACING. they are NOT sliding it along for stability like many newbies think. The only other Motor sport that does that other than maybe some in Road Racing is the Flat-Track racers but they have a smooth surface and a steel sole. If you fall into this habit on the trails, you are likely to suffer some REAL injury. Raise your inside foot off the peg IF you think it's likely to hit a stump, the ground or some other object or if it helps you lay the bike over for an extreme turn while you remain upright, but don't develop the habit. I would suggest you ignore the "racing tips" and focus on precision and control at whatever speed you are comfortable with. After you learn to relax without a heavy grip on the bike with hands and/or legs, you can focus on "Floating" over the sweet spot on the bike and let the bike dance while your upper body remains quiet and over your intended line. Thread the needle so to speak with your tires looking for fun lines and use the entire width of the trail to play with control. you should find that while standing, you turn the bike with your feet and let the bars go where they will. The bike turns by tipping it over while you stay over it. When people say stand on the outside peg in a turn, they are talking about counter weighting the bike as you lay it over. When 40 pounds of bike is laying to the left of center, you'll want 40 pounds of outside peg pressure to balance the bike WITHOUT laying your upper body over with it.. Focus on acceleration and braking where there is no pressure or pulling forces in your hands as if you had no handle bars to hold. It's done by adjusting your knees and ankles so that the foot pegs are pushing your body and/or holding you back as you brake hard. If you lock your legs to the bike to hang on, you'll sacrifice the 2 most important joints in your body's suspension. When done correctly, there will be no tendency to wheelie on hard acceleration nor any front suspension diving upon hard braking. If your intention was to learn racing in the dirt, well, these tips are still good for starters.
    Best running Trials Motorcycle I've owned. Over 7 years old now but still more capable than I'll ever be.
  2. 1 review

    GENERAL INFORMATION Model: GAS GAS TXT Pro Raga Year: 2007 Category: Enduro / offroad ENGINE AND TRANSMISSION Displacement: 449.00 ccm (27.40 cubic inches) Engine type: Single cylinder, four-stroke Bore x stroke: 95.0 x 63.4 mm (3.7 x 2.5 inches) Valves per cylinder: 5 Fuel system: Carburettor. Keihin fcr-mx37 Fuel control: DOHC Cooling system: Liquid Gearbox: 5-speed Transmission type, final drive: Chain Clutch: Multidisc in oil bath Exhaust system: FMF CHASSIS, SUSPENSION, BRAKES, AND WHEELS Frame type: Perimeter frame in chrome-molybdenum Front suspension: Marzocchi shiver inverted ø48 mm, closed cartridge Front suspension travel: 305 mm (12.0 inches) Rear suspension: Reiger Mono shock, Special settings Rear suspension travel: 298 mm (11.7 inches) Front tyre: 90/90-21 Rear tyre: 140/80-18 Front brakes: Single disc. Two-piston calipers. Front brakes diameter: 260 mm (10.2 inches) Rear brakes: Single disc. Single-piston caliper. Rear brakes diameter: 220 mm (8.7 inches) PHYSICAL MEASURES AND CAPACITIES Dry weight: 115.0 kg (253.5 pounds) Seat height: 950 mm (37.4 inches) If adjustable, lowest setting. Overall height: 1,260 mm (49.6 inches) Overall length: 2,200 mm (86.6 inches) Overall width: 830 mm (32.7 inches) Wheelbase: 1,490 mm (58.7 inches) Fuel capacity: 8.20 litres (2.17 gallons) OTHER SPECIFICATIONS Starter: Electric & kick Color options: Black/red/white
  3. Exactly what I discovered after 10 years of riding... See my post #57 in this thread.... And in response to another thread where people said to ride with "better riders", The following is in support of this post:
  4. For WFO on the Freeways, maybe Velcro Pants would be helpful. Granted, there are brief times where a little squeeze can help and I hear it quite often from the guys that are into Moto-Cross and some other forms of racing, but this is the Off-Road "RIDING" Techniques forum.. most of the people I meet on the trails are more interested in cruising effortlessly on single track trails for the pleasure of it. But I also run into guys that ride the same trails as if they are in a National Championship Race and risk injury to themselves and others for no reason.. There are Enduro and other events that use secured trails with no public traffic on them for people that want to test their skills at speed and of course, closed tracks used ONLY for racing. I have a Honda S2000 Roadster that I use for daily driving and it's fun to zip around but when I want to use it's full power and speed, I take it to a sanctioned Track Event where I can get my speed fix at 140 MPH Plus along with some good instruction.
  5. Don't squeeze the bike !!! Hover over it and let it dance around while you stay over your intended line. Your ankles and knees need to be free and active so that you don't have to hang on to the bars to keep yourself attached. Your waist and crotch should be active and moving forward and rearward as the bike climbs and drops or brakes and accelerates. Survival instinct tells you to hang on tight and clamp yourself to the bike.. Instinct is not your friend in this case.. LOL
  6. Riding the MTB has given you the basic skills that will transfer ONCE you become more COMFORTABLE and familiar with the Moto. The one big adjustment you have to deal with is that you have a much more powerful accelerator than you did on the MTB so it's one more force to adjust to. Otherwise, the way you moved your MTB under you while you stayed over your line is the same on the Moto... just a little heavier too. Try to pick a steady speed where you are not hitting the throttle or brakes often and then see if you can ride it like your bicycle. You can flick the Moto around as you did the MTB, .. It's just a lot bigger and has the ability to leave you behind if you are not careful. The braking and turning are the same. Just focus on staying on the bike without clamping yourself to it. Pay attention to your hands. If they are tense, some other part of your body suspension is not working correctly.. Allow the handle bars to move all over, side to side and up and down WITHOUT pushing your upper body out of position.. There are some good videos of top Enduro Riders such as Cody Webb where they have a GoPro on their helmet.. Watch how the camera stays relatively still while the handle bars and front wheels are all over in the video... Try to ride as light as you can on the bars but DO NOT clamp your boots to the frame.. Your ankles and knees are the most important part of your total suspension.. If you lock them to the bike, you've lost 3/4 of your suspension and then you'll have to bob your head up and down while your waist tries to take over the job your ankles and knees are supposed to be doing.. Don't expect the bike's suspension to do all the work because it won't. Good Luck and enjoy !!
  7. Riding with other people that are better than you is very helpful. However and this is a big one... It's difficult when you're starting out to be sure the people you are riding with REALLY do know what they are doing or talking about.. Quite often, I find that many beginners are riding with others that are just better at the same bad habits that YOU are learning. If you have any chance of getting some training and sound fundamentals from professional instructors, schools or seminars that focus on the BASICS and NOT on racing you will be MUCH Better off and can avoid learning bad habits that will have to be broken much later. Put your first MOD dollars into YOU and not the bike. Riders that are truly "Better" than you will probably take the time to give you some some good tips instead of just letting you chase them around at high speed.
  8. Yes, slow down some and take time often to go back to the basics as if you were teaching a beginner and work on them until you can demonstrate them to a REAL beginner flawlessly. I have found that the people that win the most or have the least problems in tough trails are NOT wizards. They quite often don't ride with a lot of Flash and Style. They focus on the fundamentals until they are perfect and then they cruise through relaxed while others are clamped to the bike looking for trick drinks or chemical remedies to help stop "Arm Pump" or cramps or whatnot.. If you can ride focusing on perfect execution of JUST the fundamentals, you've got more than 95% of what it takes to win or to have the time of your life. There are only a few people that can out-ride a person that has that 95% down. And to become even better, once you can demonstrate the basics at will, take time to teach another. It almost ALWAYS makes you even better.
  9. The reason is probably similar to many of us starting out. We are in a hurry to "Be Fast" or "Good" and then skip the basics of balance and control. After 4 years of Trials Competition, I was in the top class. I was good, but not great. There were people there that worked a lot less than me and could beat me every time. It wasn't until 6 years later when I backed out of competition and went trail riding that I met others that needed help, so I took them back to basics... It was THEN that I discovered that I could NOT demonstrate the Basics !!! I could not hold a full lock turn for more than 1-1/2 turns. So I had to go back and learn them myself before I could teach them. And you know what? My riding improved by leaps and bounds. I was more relaxed, had more fun, could go places that were impossible before and lost all of the huge callouses that had built up on my hands. I learned how to release the death grip on the bike and how to allow it to move independent of me and learned how to ride with a soft grip by staying centered over the foot pegs allowing the pegs to push me instead of having the handle bars drag me along. And I learned how NOT to grip the bike with my boots or legs. Slow down !!! Learn to ride slow and precise. If you have the opportunity to buy a used Trials Bike, do it and learn how to go slow and balanced FIRST.. Then switch back once you've got the feel and speed up without clamping yourself to the bars or the frame of the bike.. Let the bike move around under you while your upper body stays still and over your intended line. And most of all, go riding for the fun of it and only compare yourself to yourself yesterday.
  10. WOW, I would give my left whatever for a couple miles of trail like that.. But I would NOT be avoiding the rocks.. Could use more.
  11. Yes, I was keeping my fingers crossed that there would be no Earthquakes during that Shot.. Was making a "Poster Shot" And it was about 200 feet straight down. <Gulp>
  12. Looks like one of my Photos was lost.. Maybe this was it: On Top of Duncan Hill 2008
  13. "Speed" Alone is not the answer to being successful on steps, logs or anything that creates a sudden change in ground elevation.. There is an optimum speed for every situation and it takes time to learn what that is.. The key it to work WITH you suspension.. Too much rebound damping might suck up the bumps nicely, but it also prevents you from making hte suspension HOP. With the damping set correctly, you should be able to compress either end of the suspension and then help it unload with your body input. Think of jumping on a trampoline or Pogo-Stick. It's the jumper that determines how high each jump will be and then can cancel the next bounce instantly with their legs. Your legs and how you use them are responsible for up to 90% of the total suspension. You are the one that determines if the wheels stick to the ground or hop.. It's easy to bring the front up with power and a tug on the bars, but can you do it with body input alone? And when you loft the front, can you also get the rear to hop off the ground BEFORE it hits what you're jumping?. I have another video of one of our better Club Riders working on an elevated log. And though he's on a Trials Bike, the principle is the same.. Watch how he uses the front wheel bump into the log and pay very close attention to his leg work and how he gets the rear tire of the ground, even so much that the rear tire softly touches the TOP of the log on his best jump without ever hitting the face of the log.. There is a correct speed here where timing his body with the suspension along with the correct speed to get the maximum height... Much like high Jumping in the Olympics. If you go too slow, you'll never make it and if you approach too fast, you won't get the maximum height to clear the bar.. My text comments might be a little "cheesy" here and there, but pay attention.. He does about 5 jumps and then the jumps are repeated in slow-motion. WATCH the BODY Motion... And how he DIVES INTO the jump.. http://vimeo.com/25479757
  14. Even better.... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oKkhFgAwmZY&list=UUCutfCgEnlHxih0c9Nh5etA