eastreich

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eastreich last won the day on February 13 2009

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About eastreich

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  1. The 625 SXC was a pretty rare bird in the US. Indestructible engine, as it is the original LC4. Frankly, that engine may be one of the only ones on the planet that is as indestructible as an XR. The bike is heavier than the 650R but does have one big bonus: electric start! As with all things KTM until recently, the suspension was not as good as on the Japanese bikes. I did consider buying one back then, but I just couldn't bring myself to get an orange bike then like some of my other friends did. Due to the LC4 engine, those bikes can be tuned to make stupid amounts of power with good reliability. Obviously, the same engine was punched out to make the 640 Adventure/Duke, and eventually the first 690s. The newest 690s now have enough changes that they don't have a lot in common with the original LC4, but the genetic resemblance is still there. Only issue with a 625 could be getting parts these days. The engine shouldn't be a problem as you can cross reference to Duke parts, but chassis stuff may be a different story. Here is a start for you:
  2. That's why a guy should only use an original HRC cam, or at the very least the Hot Cams Stage 1. A Stage 1 is not as nice as the HRC because it doesn't have the auto decompressor, but at least it isn't a regrind and is made well. Regrinding jacks up the metallurgy of the camshaft core, and if the time was spent to retreat everything to make it as good as a new camshaft, it would cost the same as a camshaft that had the correct lobe profile to start with.
  3. It is a shame you didn't post this six weeks ago. One of my friends hooked up with another buddy of his from NY in Arizona for a week of riding. A WR450 came down from NY and was swapped out for a CR500 that went back. Could have added a street titled 2002 650R with full HRC kit engine to that truck for the return trip to NY with the CR...
  4. Pipestone is muddy and frozen. Single track all still way unrideable unless you've got screws or studs. Did about a 30 mile loop today, sliding around on the snow and ice. Started around 10:30, called it a day at 1 before somebody not paying attention was going to hit me head on. Not shocking that a lot of kids too excited to go ride for the first time this year can't pay attention to what is coming up right in front of them. Very very bottom is okay, but gaining any elevation gets you to snow and ice really quick. Sand wash was surprisingly good at the bottom, but was icy by the time we got to the water trough to cut back over to the hill climb area on the single track. Once we went up and over the top towards four corners we just stuck to the ATV trails. Wanted to dive off onto the single track, but with no screws it would have been ugly on any kind of little climb. If the weather stays consistent, it should be really good in another two weeks. Single track should start to clear up by then.
  5. I thought it was pretty brave for you to think he may make top 10, my friend! I think leaving Big Sky Country has finally started to effect your ability to think rationally. Just like Canard last week. He will be decent in the heat, good in the semi (not go to LCQ), and end up around 12-13-14 in the main. The time off, the lack of main event fitness (but speed for the short heats/semis). Aka: right around Mookie and Trey if they all stay off the ground. Wouldn't shock me if Barcia gets a heat win with a little help (crashes), or semi win (more probable). He has the up front speed that he shouldn't end up in the LCQ if he keeps it off the ground in the heats/semis regardless of his physical conditioning. Or, Barcia finishes the race under instead of behind Mookie's RMZ. A Suzuki sandwich if you will...
  6. Radersburg is a sloppy mess. You can go pound out laps on the sand track, but the rest of it is still quite muddy from what I was told a day ago. Not completely sure on Pipe, but I know the very bottom was clear of snow and ice per a drive by report from Monday. I am sure like normal, it is clear at the bottom and the instant you start to gain elevation there will be lots of ice in all shaded areas. No matter, I still have plans in place to ride there tomorrow morning.
  7. KTM hasn't produced a paper service manual in YEARS. CD only for a long time. I took the CD into work, printed it out, punched it, and stuck it in a binder.
  8. He will finish right behind Mookie.
  9. There is always having someone you know that is heading down south and coming back up pick it from someone they know down here in the States, or vice versa. I obviously don't know where you are in BC, so it may not be that easy. Not that I would know anything about those kind of shenanigans... Some family friends of my parents are down visiting from Calgary this weekend, and I would put money on it that there is a box from Rockymtn at their house that will be going in the back of the 350Z for the return trip to Alberta.
  10. If you search around the web, a few guys have adapted that chassis to run the newer KX250F or 450F plastics. They have to modify the four stroke fuel tanks and adapt the steel frame for it all to fit, but you are welding tabs onto steel here, not aluminum.
  11. Only you can decide if the ERV is worth it. For me yes, for others, I don't know. I have ERVs on both my KTM and Honda. No adjustments in 4+ years on either bike. About time to replace the rear sprocket on the Honda (Ironman), but the chain is still well within spec. The ERV was the chain Honda used on all their Baja race bikes. You could save some money by buying it under a Honda part number (without gold plating), but it isn't around anymore and was only available in 110 links.
  12. A few things to note when calling and trying to talk to KTM Canada about the issue. #1.) Be as nice as you possibly can. Obviously, you are very frustrated. But you need to note that the person on the other end of the phone right off the bat doesn't have to offer you ANYTHING. This is a "race" bike. There is no warranty. You are not the original owner of the machine. It doesn't matter how many hours are on it. It was already replaced once under a recall before you owned it, so you are seeking what is technically called a "goodwill" parts replacement. It doesn't matter if you are talking to KTM, Honda, Suzuki, Yamaha, Beta, Zongshen, etc... You are trying to sweet talk them into giving you something for free, or at least a discounted price. Legally, there is nothing that KTM HAS to do in this situation. If you go into a conversation with a bad attitude, expect it to go downhill fast and be told in short terms to pound sand. Again, no matter how the conversation goes, be as absolutely polite as you possibly can. I would at least go into the conversation with the start line of this: "I am _______, and I own a 2013 450 XC-F. I understand that rockers were replaced under TB1301 for this machine of which mine was supposedly replaced in March of 2013, however I was wondering if there have been any reports of the replaced rockers having their DLC coating failing in the same manner? I was doing a routine top end inspection on my XC-F and noticed that the DLC coating on my intake rocker is flaking off. I am working with _________ (the KTM dealer) and am curious if there is anything that you know about a potential issue with the replaced rocker arms, and what could have been the cause of failure in my bike..." Let them know that you understand the previous recall, that you are working with a specific dealer (and who that dealer is), and that you are also wanting to know if there are similar situations to yours. This will put the person on the other end of the phone in the frame of mind that you are not a pissed off owner (even if you are), but that you are more in the worried camp and are WORKING with a dealer to find a resolution to the problem. Both of those are key points. #2.) If KTM does offer you "goodwill" and will send a new rocker out, note that they will most likely NOT send the rocker to you. It will have to go to a dealer and the parts will in all likely hood have to be installed by the dealer (if this is done by the book). The dealer will have to submit the bad rocker you currently have along with their work order # back to KTM Canada. They will want the bad part. So depending how this all goes, you may have to pay for labor to have it done unless you have something else worked out through the dealer. If that is the case, it may be cheaper for you to just buy the rocker and put it in yourself. That is obviously for you and the dealer to work out, after you know what KTM is willing (or not willing) to do. #3.) If you know that the dealer has already called KTM, see if you can get who the rep was that they talked to, or if there is a number that relates to your case with KTM. It is best if you are both talking to the same person, so that things aren't missed between multiple parties. I am sure that KTM Canada is not that large of a place, but it still helps to be talking to the same person. #4.) If the dealer you went to is really good, they will do what they can without you having to call or at the very least will call KTM, and if KTM at that point wants to do nothing, then give you the number of the person to call. When I used to work for a dealer, we never instructed our customers to call the company service reps although many did BEFORE they even brought us their units. The reason for this is that the customer is emotionally invested in their unit, and this usually works out badly when the discussion with the service rep on the phone doesn't go the way that they want. Again, look back at note #1. I was never the guy at the dealership that had to call for warranty work or goodwill replacement parts, I was the tech that had to do the work. However, I can't tell you how many times the customers would be in the service managers office screaming at him when he had nothing to do with any of it. Which in the end would make him hope that the rep on the other end of the phone he talked to later would tell him no just to spite the customer that was a total jerk to him (i.e. don't kill the messenger). Go in with the best attitude possible, maintain that attitude at all times, and that will be your best chance at getting the situation resolved for least amount of cash layout from your wallet. It sucks to have to be nice when you least want to be, but that is the only way that you may get towards the goal that you seek. And whatever you do, don't tell them that their products are garbage and you are going to tell everyone how much they suck, send it out to everyone on the internet, etc... Trust me, that is the number one way to get them to really be happy to NOT help you out with anything. They hear that multiple times a day and are really over it.
  13. I did not ride on my first motocross track until I was 16, and I did not race for the first time until I was 17. I was racing in the Expert class (500 two strokes) by the time I was 21. You just have to love it. If you don't love it, it can burn you out in a hurry and make all riding miserable. It also helps to find some guys that are older (as in 30+) that are there for fun and are willing to help "show you the ropes." My family met a three guys at the track who were more than willing to take the time to follow my brother and I around to give us pointers, and to help "pull" us over jumps (riding in front so we knew how fast to go) when first starting out. For them, it was a break from when they were riding their fast motos for practice and could roll around on their bikes and follow us. We rode with them for a year before doing our first actual MX race. I am still good friends with those individuals to this day. For the record, my dad started racing motocross when I did which would put him at 44 years old the first time he lined up behind the gate. It is NEVER too late to start racing if that is what you want to do.
  14. That should work great for what you need, and it should easily put you at 96 or below. Have fun with it!
  15. Also think about installing a manual cam chain tensioner like the one sold by DJH. The OEM cam chain tensioner uses hydraulic pressure, and thus uses some of the oil that heads up to the cylinder head/camshaft journals. The manual tensioner allows you to block off the oil passage that would go to the OEM tensioner and thus sends more oil to the head. The DJH setup for the RF4 engine comes with the right blind allen plug to block off the oil passage correctly. The part number for other engines gives the same tensioner, but does not come with the plug. I am pretty sure that there are other manual units on the market, but I picked one of these up in 2009 and I am pretty sure this was the first one out there. It was a big KTMTalk thing at the time. I have never had any issues with it, nor any kind of oiling problems to the head, so I figure it has been a good expenditure. I have yet to adjust the valves in my cylinder head since I received the bike "used" from KTM in the fall of 2008. DJH cam chain tensioner