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bike jesus

07 WR450 won't start

13 posts in this topic

So this isn't the best first post ever but it's a real doozy.

I bought the bike recently with this issue,

It won't turn over on the E start, just relay clicks.

It won't kick,

It will roll start,

It has all the idiot lights,

It has a new stator,

It has a new battery,

It has a new reg rec,

The plug is fine,

The clearances are fine,

The clutch switch sesnor is snapped (which i've tried bridging to no avail)

Happy to share any information anyone wants and any ideas are welcome.

When it's roll started it runs perfectly.

Kinder has me stumped.

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When you say it won't kick, does that mean the kick starter is locked up or you can kick it 20 times with no starting?

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Have you tried jumping it off a your truck battery? If it starts, then it's your battery or charging problem.

Check the hot start plunger.

Get a better battery. Like Shorai. A lot of my weak starter issues went away with the Shorai and uncorking the motor, and JD jetting.

I think some thing could be messed up electrically with the charging system and all the lights, considering all the work in that area.

My 06 was a pretty weak E starter, but would always kick start. This 09 with above changes, starts with a half stab every time.

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I'm sorry guys but it isn't that.

The battery is a brand new top of the range job.

When i say it won't kick it won't start kicking it with my fat foot 20 times not even a gurgle.

It's not a charging issue, I originally thought it was.

I don't know, any other ideas?

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Check timing, cam chain and compression. Worn bikes (usually 2 strokes, but I've worked on some 4's that do this) can be a bear to start but will push start easy since you are firing so rapidly when pushing that slightly out of time or low compression can be "overcome" that way.

Your cam chain might be so stretched its making the bike slightly out of time and it refuses to start. I'd also go back over everything you bought and have done as a weak stator can can have these symptoms as well as tight valves, especially the center one. Just be sure they all test good and are set correctly before throwing too much time or additional effort at it.

Edited by miweber929

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thanks buddy,

It wasn't starting when I bought it. I just assumed it was a charging system issue thats why I replaced the stator.

The bike is timed right with a new cam chain.

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Yeah, got me stumped. If it wouldn't push start and run, then would say it's fuel issue, but you say it does.

I can't help. Maybe get someone with an ohm meter and let them start testing stuff.

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How's the compression? miweber asked, but you didn't respond. You've got a lot of work ahead of you, purchasing a bike that doesn't run is brave to say the least!! Have you ever done a leak down test on it?

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Has the starter motor been tested by hot wiring direct to the terminals (eliminating the relay/solenoid and any isolation switches on clutch or side stand)? If the starter motor is OK but the relay just clicks with a good battery it might be a bad earth. That could also affect the spark strength on an inductive ignition system but I would have thought the CDI would be OK,unless the earth for that is to the same point on the frame as the starter. Do the idiot lights dim when you try to use the starter?

Edited by 72degrees

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Also, has anything you've done made it better? Does putting and starting fluid make it fire when kick starting?

I may have mis read this, but does it spin the motor over on the electric start and just not fire, or does it not even spin it? Will it spin without a spark plug in?

May want to start looking at safety switches, should be a neutral sensor and the broken clutch switch you mentioned. Then try kicking and the electric start and see what your spark looks like.

You need compression, fuel and spark to run; In this case, compression is key so let us know what your compression is, check spark and verify your carb is clean and jetted close. Now you learned not to assume its something and just throw parts at it!! :)

Edited by miweber929

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If the bike "push" starts and "runs" after push starting, wouldn't that indicate the compression to be ok?

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If the bike "push" starts and "runs" after push starting, wouldn't that indicate the compression to be ok?

Not neccesarily! That's why we asked if he's checked the compression. An engine with low compression can usually be bump-started or even towed to get it to fire up. But that same engine will be an absolute bear to kick start to life!

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Not neccesarily! That's why we asked if he's checked the compression. An engine with low compression can usually be bump-started or even towed to get it to fire up. But that same engine will be an absolute bear to kick start to life!

I once had the exhaust valve seat drop out on an AJS 350 single. Must have been hammered back home crooked by the valve. It still just about ran at high revs but I made the mistake of letting it stall. Bump starting may overcome low compression problems but it can also get the ignition source on a CDI system rotating faster than a kickstart or even a starter motor on a single. The one part of the ignition sytem that hasn't apparently been changed is the flywheel, which in theory could have lost some magnetism, though I'd guess that's rare on a modern machine.

Having had problems starting a tuned Gilera DOHC single from cold I resorted to running a grade softer plug which helped a lot.

I'd still try to figure out why the starter won't turn at all with a good battery first.

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