HEADS UP!!!

Site upgrade in progress... Core site functions are working, but some non-critical features/functions will be temporarily unavailable while we work to restore them over the next couple of weeks.

Please post any bugs you encounter, but before you do, check to see if it's already listed.

Thanks for your patience while we work to improve the community.

Sign in to follow this  
Followers 0
blii

Rebuild - identify these bits?

18 posts in this topic

Hey guys,

Just rebuilding my drz, got the crankcase back together, however found a few bits on the bench that I can't identify. Looked through the manual, and the online microfiches but no luck.

Anyone know where these go?

ivMyz.jpg

My friends got a few projects on the go as well, but he seemed fairly certain they weren't from one of this bikes.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

they are from the gear shift mechanism, behind the clutch basket

http://www.ronayers....p/GEAR_SHIFTING

items 15 & 17

I thought it was them too, pulled it apart but nope! The ones in the shifting mech are half as long and are just a plain cylinder with a slight dome on one end.

Also, they really should ban the use of philips head screws!

Edited by blii

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Also, they really should ban the use of philips head screws!

Or you could use the proper JIS screwdriver instead of stripping all your screw heads with a Phillips. I learned the hard way too, they are not phillips! :prof:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Ah yup, that looks like it. Thanks marq.

JIS driver I think I had one cause I manage to get it off surprisingly easy. I'll double check cause I want to replace the drive shaft seal as well and I'm a bit wary of the screws that hold that retainer in. Any comments on using a manual impact screwdriver with the correct bit?

I'm gonna chase some countersunk hex head cap screws see if they fit, and some hex heads for the carby bowl.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I want to replace the drive shaft seal as well and I'm a bit wary of the screws that hold that retainer in. Any comments on using a manual impact screwdriver with the correct bit?

Hand impact driver and #3 cross tip bit works great, never had an issue.

JIS fasteners are common place in motorcycles, most can safety be removed using a GOOD quality standard cross tip driver of the right size... If you use a smaller size the required (common from what I see a lot......just grab the first cross tip at hand and start screwing :lol: ) you will see the driver cam out of the screw and damage it.

Case screws are easy as you can use the impact driver.. Things like carb screws are touchy as you can bust something if hit too hard. Float bowl screws on a FCR or Mikuni for the DRZ? No worry's the threaded section is well supported. TPS on Mikuni on other bikes (like my VTR) hitting those with a hand impact will break off a mounting tab.. The JIS driver is really needed here.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

thanks e.marq, quality advice.

my first time with an engine apart, so have been pretty wary about going anywhere near a hammer! got a few things on today, but hopefully have the bottom end buttoned up this morning, will do the top tomorrow.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

They are the contacts and springs for the neutral safety switch, just got it back together earlier and the rest of the bottom end stitched together. There are two, I think the micro-fiche just omits them for clarity.

I took the shifting mechanism apart, and all bits were account for.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Why is there only one spring and contact in the fiche?

Because they are identical parts, no need to show them twice. Because the OEM service manual and parts fiche are designed for Service Techs, not riders at home looking at them.. They can do well for both, just have to remember they are not designed for you... the end user. Look in the quantity required you will see 2 each.

They look like shift pawls

No, no they don't..... other then both being steel and partly cylindrical and both using a spring... that's about it.. Not shaped the same, not the same length, not the same diameter or length spring.. Nor do they look the same in the parts fiche.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

So after I got no neutral light and no power to the starter after re-installing my engine, it was mentioned in another thread that I might be missing some parts to the neutral safety switch (NSS) that was removed in the take-out. So I did a search and found this thread. I then took the NSS off and I am missing part numbers 41 and 38 illustrated in the parts list E marquez posted. The op's pic shows two springs and two pins. E Marquez confirms there are two of these, but I'm confused, do they both go in the same hole? I only have one hole like in the illustration, except the center hole and that is a larger diameter. Thanks for any input.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have not worked on a motor with a neutral switch (E's don't have one). But the parts list does say 2 and Marquez conforms there are 2 so there must be 2. Maybe someone else can identify the assembly sequence.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

without taking one apart, if memory serves.. one pin is in the center, one on the outer edge.. the electrical "switch" contacts have two contact locations center and outer ring.

58770150-E9A5-4CCF-BC9A-FD3D84E00BAE-754-0000006DD0C85258_zpsac170e1a.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!


Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.


Sign In Now
Sign in to follow this  
Followers 0