ballisticexchris

Maintenance, adjustments, and modifications to our Betas

1,487 posts in this topic

I suppose you would only need to compress the suspension to get the correct tension once, and then put the bike on the kick stand and measure the slack again, which, as 2stoke says, would probably end up being about three fingers…

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I have been looking at that setup, do you notice a big reduction in vibration?

Not a big reduction, no. Maybe a little. The "rubber" bushings are quite stiff. They do not flex enough for me to notice any give to speak of.

Its a well-designed kit. I'm glad I waited for this one.

You can flip your throttle to gain clearance for the guide. I really like the sub mount. Been thinking of getting one myself. Did you have to replace the link arm on the Scotts?

I worry about the throttle cables being underneath when Ms.Beta decides to take the occasional nap. She's only been upside down once, so far!

The link arm on the damper is shipped in the normal (pointed towards bottom) position. I took the link arm off, reversed, and re-installed it.

Catfish ...

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Not a big reduction, no. Maybe a little. The "rubber" bushings are quite stiff. They do not flex enough for me to notice any give to speak of.

Its a well-designed kit. I'm glad I waited for this one.

I worry about the throttle cables being underneath when Ms.Beta decides to take the occasional nap. She's only been upside down once, so far!

The link arm on the damper is shipped in the normal (pointed towards bottom) position. I took the link arm off, reversed, and re-installed it.

Catfish ...

That's cool! So the link arm fits by just reversing it then? No need to buy a new one?

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Thats not normal, thats a non-interval.

Normal use is 30 hrs and if you're Cody or Oscar then it should be half.

Especially the tranny oil can be left even more (50rhs). Haven;t done it but I always regret it when I am changing it.

If you use cheap oil, just don't.

Oil change intervals shoulf not be mixed with oil quality.

It can handle 50 hours... I hate to say it, but I have a customer that just now came in after putting 3500 miles on his Beta 520 RS. That's break-in oil! These 498cc engines are tough!

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I am just going to get the sub kit and take the dampener off my Husky but I have to by a longer link arm as well, can you do me a favour and measure your link arm for me?

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That's cool! So the link arm fits by just reversing it then? No need to buy a new one?

Yes, mine did. See the photo below.

I am just going to get the sub kit and take the dampener off my Husky but I have to by a longer link arm as well, can you do me a favour and measure your link arm for me?

With everything in place, its easier for me to take a photo;

IMG_1336.JPG

What I could measure ... the tip of the arm is 3/8" longer than the damper body in the position shown above.

Catfish ...

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Yes, mine did. See the photo below.

With everything in place, its easier for me to take a photo;

IMG_1336.JPG

What I could measure ... the tip of the arm is 3/8" longer than the damper body in the position shown above.

Catfish ...

Thanks! I can figure it out from what you have given me but can you tell what 3/8" is in metric ;)

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Thanks! I can figure it out from what you have given me but can you tell what 3/8" is in metric ;)

Dude, We need to keep the wrenches away from you! 9.5250mm

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What I could measure ... the tip of the arm is 3/8" longer than the damper body in the position shown above.

Catfish ...

Thanks a lot catfish! I will get some more pictures of my bar setup at different angles this weekend.

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Dude, We need to keep the wrenches away from you! 9.5250mm

I'm ok, I have metric wrenches and a conversion app on my iPhone.

I'm hoping I don't have to buy a new link arm like Scotts says

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Yes, mine did. See the photo below.

With everything in place, its easier for me to take a photo;

IMG_1336.JPG

What I could measure ... the tip of the arm is 3/8" longer than the damper body in the position shown above.

Catfish ...

Oh well looks like I have to shell out the 40 bucks for the longer arm

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I installed the RS wiring harnesses on my RR last week, It is pretty well a swap out of the stock harness. I used led turn sigs and an electronic flasher using, and everything worked fine.

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Can anyone tell me if there is a difference between the RS and the RR stator? I am not planning on adding anything more in the way of electrical load but just wondering.

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Can anyone tell me if there is a difference between the RS and the RR stator? I am not planning on adding anything more in the way of electrical load but just wondering.

Not according to the parts manual, everything is listed as RR/RS

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I installed the RS wiring harnesses on my RR last week, It is pretty well a swap out of the stock harness. I used led turn sigs and an electronic flasher using, and everything worked fine.

Why did you do this?? Several on here said the lights were plug-in without the extra harness, I have heard it both ways??! 2013 have everything but the lights and relay.

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