ballisticexchris

Maintenance, adjustments, and modifications to our Betas

1,486 posts in this topic

Figured we list some of the routine stuff as well as modifications we do to keep our rides in shape.

I'll start:

Suspension adjustment (stock suspension): 3 clicks out on rebound shock/forks, high speed compression on shock 3 clicks in, static sag set at 25mm with full desert tank, and all bagged up for solo ADV rides. Race sag is 93mm in street clothes/103mm in full riding gear.

I'm a "C" rider who rides a little bit of everything including single track, desert, rocks, whoops….

I'm just getting ready (in the next few weeks) to do a full 50hr service. Looking to change spark plug, check valve clearance, brake fluid flush, coolant flush/install silicone hoses and Factory Beta high flow waterpump, clean carb and document jet sizes/needle position, install Georges carb vent filter.

Normal 5-10hr service stuff such as oil/filter change, air filter service, check spokes, tire pressure, lube chain/check slack, go over complete bike front/rear/top/bottom check bolts/nuts.

What other routines do some of you guys have?

Edited by ballisticexchris
2 people like this

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The various tubing on my RS smog equipment came apart in several different places. I'm sure that it sucked at least a little dirt. I've done some re-engineering to the system.

I've been working so much this summer that I'm not up to the hour point that you are at.

If you are not a racer and ride easy at times deleting the thermostat might not be the best plan. I need to install a fan a lot more than I need more water flow.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The various tubing on my RS smog equipment came apart in several different places. I'm sure that it sucked at least a little dirt. I've done some re-engineering to the system.

I've been working so much this summer that I'm not up to the hour point that you are at.

If you are not a racer and ride easy at times deleting the thermostat might not be the best plan. I need to install a fan a lot more than I need more water flow.

Good point on the thermostat. I have the fan already. I'm so traumatized from my KTM 300 boiling, that I am looking for every cooling advantage with this bike. I tend to ride a gear high so she stays warm…..

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I've been working so much this summer that I'm not up to the hour point that you are at.

I hear that! The only reason for being at 50 hours is my day rides have involved a lot of pavement :(

Just yesterday I peeled off over 300 miles. Only around 50 of it was dirt!

1 person likes this

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

....

Normal 5-10hr service stuff such as oil/filter change,

Thats not normal, thats a non-interval.

Normal use is 30 hrs and if you're Cody or Oscar then it should be half.

Especially the tranny oil can be left even more (50rhs). Haven;t done it but I always regret it when I am changing it.

If you use cheap oil, just don't.

Oil change intervals shoulf not be mixed with oil quality.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thats not normal, thats a non-interval.

Normal use is 30 hrs and if you're Cody or Oscar then it should be half.

Especially the tranny oil can be left even more (50rhs). Haven;t done it but I always regret it when I am changing it.

If you use cheap oil, just don't.

Oil change intervals shoulf not be mixed with oil quality.

It's normal for me. I'm on the 5hr-10hr/20hr plan. At 5-10hrs I change the motor oil. Then after another 5-10hrs I change the motor oil, filter and trans oil. I'm very picky when it comes to servicing my bikes. You can't change out fluids too much. Sometimes after a hard day ride, I spend a few hours going over my bikes.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Installation of DRC IC Relay.

If you are running LED turn signals front and rear you will need one of these:

pv01.jpg

Install was a major PITA!! I spent over three hours trying almost every possible way to make my turn signals work! Being relentless in making it work, I finally got er' done! Thank you Dave (Get Dirty Dirt Bikes)!!

Step 1: Put a torch to the worthless instructions!

Step 2: Ditch the stock flasher relay

Step 3: Black DRC Flasher wire to ground

Step 4: Yellow DRC Flasher wire to hot wire (grey/black) that goes into stock flasher.

Step 5: Red DRC Flasher wire to output wire (yellow/red) that comes out of stock flasher going to turn signals.

Step 6: Most important, the turn signal indicator light bulb (on dashboard) must be removed. Otherwise your turn signals will work like 4 way flashers.

Final installation picture:

100_3319.jpg

This is a very nice modification for guys that want to run the LED flashers.

Edited by ballisticexchris
2 people like this

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

If you had a flasher relay, why not just replace it with a led relay?

This one plugs right in on most bikes.

http://www.superbrig...cts/LF1-S-FLAT/

or wired #9

http://www.superbrig...lasher%20relay/

The Betas come stock with an electronic flasher. For some reason they don't work with DRC led bulbs. The one I installed stays cool. It's also designed to work with the DRC bulbs that I'm using.

I don't recommend the load resisters as they create a lot of heat and draw quite a few watts out of your system.

Edited by ballisticexchris

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

My 2010 Beta 450RR came with the flasher relay shown below. It was a demo bike that the dealer added the light kit to before I bought it. I'm not sure if this flasher relay is standard issue or not. I replaced the stock turn signals (front and back) with LED ones from Sicass Racing. I was pleasantly surprised when I connected the flashers and everything worked properly.

P1020831.jpg

1 person likes this

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I can't see why any LED flasher relay would not work. If anything, it would throw an error and your turn signal light on the dash would either stay on or not flash, signals would still blink. Most if not all flasher relays are electronic.

Edited by weantright

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

My 2010 Beta 450RR came with the flasher relay shown below. It was a demo bike that the dealer added the light kit to before I bought it. I'm not sure if this flasher relay is standard issue or not. I replaced the stock turn signals (front and back) with LED ones from Sicass Racing. I was pleasantly surprised when I connected the flashers and everything worked properly.

P1020831.jpg

Yeah, That's the same one I have. For some reason my LED signals don't work with it. I think a lot of my "teething issues" installing the LED's were due to the fact I have converted my electrical system to DC only

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Next install was a simple one. This is the very sweet carb vent filter designed and fabricated by George at Uptite Husky. It gets rid of the black box and filters out dirt. If you live in wet climate you could put it in the airbox.

100_3308.jpg

100_3321.jpg

1 person likes this

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

How much was the Carb Filter? It seem that venting the float bowl "overflow" into the filter would block the thing up. Where am I wrong here?

It sure does look like a nice setup though!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

How much was the Carb Filter? It seem that venting the float bowl "overflow" into the filter would block the thing up. Where am I wrong here?

It sure does look like a nice setup though!

Sorry, it's an optical illusion. The carb overflow line is zip tied along the right side of the filter. The filter is about 30 bucks.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Sorry, it's an optical illusion. The carb overflow line is zip tied along the right side of the filter. The filter is about 30 bucks.

Thanks. That Pic sure fooled me. Quick install I take it?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Can anyone tell me what sprockets come stock on the 2012's and how many links in the chain? Mine has a thirteen front and a 48 tooth supersprox on the rear.

Thanks

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Depends on the bike. I believe that the RR's are supposed to be 14/48 and the RS's 15/45. My RS came with a bad sprocket and the I had the dealer put a 14 on it so it was 14/45. This is too tall for technical work. I've switched to 13/48 for the tighter stuff and 14/48 for the desert. With my stock chain 14/48 is a very tight squeeze. It has just enough slack with the adjusters at the minimum setting.

I have a feeling that the RR's may one step or two links longer so 14/48 fits better. I'll be doing that when my chain is toast.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I installed HDB handguards the other day. I had them on my Kawi and the bar clamp bolt pattern turned out to be the same as the Beta.

preview_image_0_76705892x.jpg

preview_image_0_44025362x.jpg

I also replaced the stock battery with a Shorai lithium iron battery which saves two thirds the weight. It seems to spin the motor faster than the stock one.

3 people like this

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks for the sprocket info. I really like the 13/48 ratio for the kind of riding around here. I actually broke my master link tool trying to remove the master link today. It seems unmovable.

Edited by redpillar

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Reply with:


  • Similar Content

    • By makavellu
      Hi guys ,
      Mounting and dismounting the rear wheel I`ve broken the safety piece in the rear brake .
      I cannot see the piece in the Beta parts Diagram.
      It`s ok to ride without this piece ?
      Thanks

    • By Elite Motorsports
      Hey Everyone, 
      I just wanted to give everyone an update on how the Alta Redshift MX did at the RMEC Hard Rock Enduro in Colorado. Don was able to get a 2nd place finish (would have been first if not for a flat rear tire) in the A 50 + class and 17th overall. The bike was absolutely amazing on the technical rocky terrain. 
      Race Info:
      6 laps that averaged 23 minutes per lap a little over 2 hours of actual racing time Don was able to sneak in about 35-40 minutes of charging total using a 220v generator. Raced the entire race in Map 1 on the Alta The Alta does require a little more strategy for Longer format Enduro racing, but it is very competitive against gas bikes! 
      Here is the link to the YouTube video of the race from Don's helmet cam.
       
    • By hawaiidirtrider
      This just came on my subs.. Cool!!!!
       
    • By tzsuzuki753
      Selling my well cared for enduro bike, I am the original owner, purchased new June of 2015. A very durable hard core enduro bike, which came with headlight, tail light, functional brake light, and if you want the wires and switch is there for blinkers, and horn too.
      lectron carb equipped, seat concepts seat cover, arc memlon levers TMD skid plate and chain guard, new TMD slider included. Lithium battery. FMF gnarly pipe, HOH silencer. Two iron man sprockets, extra chain. New Kenda tire set, several used tires including a Dunlop MX11 used once. Tubliss front and rear, shock recently serviced and revalved. Fork revalved as well. Sprung for 220lb rider. Includes stock springs and a set of progressive for springs. Extra spark plugs and throttle cable. Clear title.