Rotella t6 in an 08 YZ450f?

I use the Yamalube 10/50 Semi Syn, I think it should hold up better than the basic 10/40. I have like 1.5 gallons left, I'll be changing after you finish your study!

Thanks again for taking time and $$ to do this study for the Thumper Community!

I've seen that a 15w-40 oil holds up better than a 10w-40 even from the same company. Probably has to do with less polymers to make the difference between the two weights.

It very often does. A 20w-40 is obviously going to depend less on VII's to maintain 40 wt behavior from a 20 wt than a 5w-40 will to do the same with a 5. The wrinkle is that some of the better synthetic base oils have a much higher viscosity index (meaning they thin less with heat) than petroleum and lesser synthetic bases even without the additives.

KJ790 thanks for doing this research I'm very interested to see all of the results.

I guess the old mechanic I talked to knew his shit after all,looks like the Rotella blows the Yamalube out of the water,Ill keep using it thnx for the hard data.So much BS and product hype out there its nice to know there are still a few guys around who know what they are talking about.

I guess the old mechanic I talked to knew his shit after all,looks like the Rotella blows the Yamalube out of the water,Ill keep using it thnx for the hard data.So much BS and product hype out there its nice to know there are still a few guys around who know what they are talking about.

Remember that that test was for Rotella T (dino oil), not the T6. I won't have the result for the T6 until early next week, I just mailed it in on Monday. I will post up the result when I get it. I did just get the results back for the Super Tech 15w40, not quite as good as the Rotella T, but still better than the Yamalube. I'm not sure why their "should be" column for the viscosity has been different with each test.

SuperTech15w40_zps9cf927b9.png

fwiw CITGO blends most the Yamalube USA products last time I checked, to yamaha's spec, which I assume is Jaso. The industry works on bid though (low bid) so contracts can change but the spec is usually the same.

WHEN you pull sample can make a difference in your attempt to see viscosity retention. Oil can actually thicken as it become more oxidized from heat , additive's are used to help control it - weighed against the thinning from shear, keeping things in balance As you see the TBN drop you might start to see a viscosity increase. but most motosports users change their oil before that happens.

10w40 doesn't necessary mean more VII's are used than 15w40, Pour point depressants are also used to make a heavier base act thinner. It really depends on the formulation.. many products labeled 40 may start out at the thin end of the 40 range (many 10w40's). So a UOA would show that it fell out of grade with a small drop. Another oil that started out on the thick end of the 40 range (many 15w40's) may still show in grade on a UOA but dropped just as many cst. Also VII's are not evil things to avoid if they are good quality.

On these bikes I'd be concerned when the 100c falls much below 10 cst, as almost all Japanese bike motors are proved (durability etc) on 10/30w.

Edited by highmarker

fwiw CITGO blends most the Yamalube USA products last time I checked, to yamaha's spec, which I assume is Jaso. The industry works on bid though (low bid) so contracts can change but the spec is usually the same.

WHEN you pull sample can make a difference in your attempt to see viscosity retention. Oil can actually thicken as it become more oxidized from heat , additive's are used to help control it - weighed against the thinning from shear, keeping things in balance As you see the TBN drop you might start to see a viscosity increase. but most motosports users change their oil before that happens.

10w40 doesn't necessary mean more VII's are used than 15w40, Pour point depressants are also used to make a heavier base act thinner. It really depends on the formulation.. many products labeled 40 may start out at the thin end of the 40 range (many 10w40's). So a UOA would show that it fell out of grade with a small drop. Another oil that started out on the thick end of the 40 range (many 15w40's) may still show in grade on a UOA but dropped just as many cst. Also VII's are not evil things to avoid if they are good quality.

On these bikes I'd be concerned when the 100c falls much below 10 cst, as almost all Japanese bike motors are proved (durability etc) on 10/30w.

Good info. A VOA of the Yamalube showed a SUS viscosity of 77, so the viscosity definitely dropped a concerning amount in 2 hours of use.

Yep, as soon as you started the motor. LOL.The labs are pretty inconsistent IMO, most people that use them look for trends and big things out of wack. not individual UOA's. But it's fun to play with....? I did my share of twocycle oils back in the day.

And the test for the Rotella T6 5w40 is back! It looks like it held up alright, still in grade. The only thing is that it did not seem to hold up any better than the normal Rotella T, and for me I noticed the clutch action was not that great. With the other oils the clutch action was always smooth, but with the T6 the clutch would chatter under hard acceleration. I switched back to the normal Rotella T and the clutch feels normal under hard acceleration again. Here are the results after 2 hours.

RotellaT65w40.png

I can comment in this thread now.

I have been running Silkolene Pro 4 Plus fully synthetic for around 6 months now in my 05' YZ450F, no problems at all, perfect clutch performance.

The bike has a Rekluse Core EXP and it grabs great, would very much recommend, only down side is the price :S

Aaron.

That should put the Rotella Haters to rest,proofs in the puddin,if they think their oil of choice is so much better they should put their money where their mouths are and do the testing you just did to prove it.Appreciate the data KJ,So glad I didnt waste my money on the Yamacrap.

Silkolene Pro 4 is around 23 bucks a liter. Once I run out that's it for me.

I'll prolly use Rotella.

Silkolene Pro 4 is around 23 bucks a liter. Once I run out that's it for me.

I'll prolly use Rotella.

Yep, I paid a bucket for the Pro 4 Plus.

But, I didn't want to risk anything with the CoreEXP after I put it in.

brand x or Y oil isn't going to hurt the rekluse, they just make that recommendation to get everyone on the same page so they can advise tuning and setup better. It's a popular oil, available most place and doesn't cost too much, I wouldn't read too much more into the recommendation.

brand x or Y oil isn't going to hurt the rekluse, they just make that recommendation to get everyone on the same page so they can advise tuning and setup better. It's a popular oil, available most place and doesn't cost too much, I wouldn't read too much more into the recommendation.

Good point!

I know this is a old thread but just wanted to say thanks for doing the tests

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